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It seems from the book reviews on Amamzon for these books that, while popular, they often emphasize one type of wood boat construction. JR-shine: you may not be -trying- to be a smart-***, but you certianly -sound- like you might be one No problem, I can take it.
Corpus, you have a very fine looking boat, I aspire to build something of similar quality for my first. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. One thing I have heard mentioned a lot is chine logs, I think this be battens or such beveled to fit inside seams. Location: Cape Town, South Africa Fairing I am at the same stage with my current boat - also did one sheath in thick cloth due to lack of materials where I live. The rep for that brand came by to check out my build and he mentioned that the glue is epoxy with microfibres pre added and in the can it is some white stuff in suspension that he said needs to be stirred first. Location: Eustis, FL You can and should sand through the biax stitching, which will save a ton of fairing later.
Location: Fiji Par I ended up filling the weave to the height of the stitching in most places with thickened epoxy. Location: Fiji Marked out the flat bits that go on top of the side plates (gunnels?) in which I will fit the rod holders.
Many times its easiest to make the rub rail from a couple layer of flexible 6mm marine ply epoxed onto the topsides, set the deck on this in epoxy rail, let the rough plydeck extend past the plyrail, trim fair with a hand plane then biax tape over the deck rail joint, then add a timber or whatever strike, chafe rail outside. You will have more meat, the multi layer ply, to drive the timber strike rails fastening into and the sheer clamp will be robust.
After converting to Computer Aided Drafting (CAD) several years ago it became apparent that it is possible to take design information (parts) and provide them to a Computer Numerical Controlled (CNC) cutter for Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM).


CNC plywood Hull Kits are available ready to Stitch and Glue together or as a starting point for Glue and Screw construction.
Boat » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Are Your Glue Joints Repairable? Because of the microfibres I think its going to be an absolute pain to sand but its gotta be done. Looks like I wont need much more, the first bit of sanding will tell Looks pretty cool Saqa, do those extensions of the running surface become like a step for boarding?
When I run the long board it should come up nice and plane in most areas as I can see its already really good by running a straight edge.
It is a flat ribbon of 9mm ply that runs uniform width from the transom and when it reaches the curved area towards the bow it starts tapering exponentially and goes on to become the front deck or bow cap or whatever its called.
Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. Hull Kits consist of frames, bulkheads, transom, sides, bottom and selected parts such as motorwells sheerstrakes, rudders and centerboards and skegs depending on the specific kit. From internet research it appears that the stitch & glue method is most popular for simple kits and designs, but I am put off by the epoxy and taping required. I am trained as an engineer (electrical) and handy with mechanical tasks, but not much experienced as a wood worker.
Several regular contributors are from your area, so may be available for personal consultation. And after perusing the woodenboat forum, as mmd suggested, I have also bookmarked Oetright, Hill and Gardner as other popular books.
It appears to be a single sheet of plywood for each side, and another single sheet for the bottom.


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I dont really want to build it on too thick, just enough to fill up the fabric so that when I cut back with wet sic paper I get a primer ready surface. The actual 'glass fibers are at 45 degree angles to each other and under the stitching, which is why you can grind it off without harm. Only health worry I can see with epoxy is developing a sensitivity and I have been using it for years and havent yet.
This saves you considerable pass through, handling and shipping charges especially for the larger boats we offer as Hull Kits.
Non-Boat Related" section - there be monsters in there (political harangues, personal attacks, general on-line nastiness from adults who can't control their adolescent urges).
Not sure if slight high and low spots will have much impact on hydrodynamics so would appreciate some thots on this. Another pair of these strips will form the outside wall off the flat things so the 9mm ply will have additional 25mm added on the free edge 6" 200gsm plain tape to wrap this structure onto the boat sides. The cost to complete the boats is approximatly 50% of the Hull Kit price for smaller open boats and 100% of the Hull Kit price for larger boats with cabins and interiors. But if there is other health concerns that I might not be aware of then please do let me know!!! Material cost to complete includes structural lumber, decks, interiors, epoxy and fiberglass.



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