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Precut wooden boat construction kits for conventional framed plywood, stitch & glue plywood and cedar strip models. Plans with full-size patterns for framed plywood, lapstrake, stitch & glue plywood, cedar strip, canvas covered and cold molded models. This will be the first boat I build, and both I and my son want to learn the fine art of sailing. I have already found a supplier of marine-grade okume plywood here, but he currently only stocks 12 and 15mm thick plates, while the project asks for 10mm, which will add unnecessary weight. I do not know which kind of wood I should use for the keelson, for the edges of the keel case, the deck bearers, gunwale and structural rods in general. I guess cedar would be better and last longer than (knot free) pine, although it would certainly be more expensive (my little beloved country has few resources but brain power, so most everything here is imported). Buoyancy: Another question is about the aft and rear flotation chambers: should I use car tyre tubes?
I was too cheap to buy inflatable buoyancy bags for my kayak so I got ahold of a 10 gallon Ziploc and stuffed it full of Styrofoam packing peanuts and taped it shut. Location: Mid of Finland Pingpong balls have been suggested, and the Mythbusters have proven they work. Location: Mid of Finland Actually they sunk a boat, then floated it back to the surface by pumping the balls into the hull via a waterhose. Location: Bellingham WA I was going to use 2L soda bottles which are plenty strong, but they're also fairly heavy. Please have a look at the boat's transom in the pictures and tell me what you guys think about the behavior expected in salted water (I intend to learn to sail on this boat). The bottom is flat with a slight curve, overal weight shall be something between 130 and 150 kg (don't ask me what is that in pounds!).

Originally Posted by Aharon I am studying the plans for this 15' sail dinghy before I begin cutting the parts.
ETA: In Australia, durable racing dinghies of this size were commonly built out of 4mm ply, and you can get a very strong boat out of 6mm. Aharon If you and your son are beginners you should be reading the forecasts and staying ashore in dodgey conditions. Originally Posted by Aharon NED, perhaps I misrepresented the situation: the thick plywood is just for the bottom and 2 formers. Mind you, these boats were durable in terms on sailing loads, not in terms of bouncing up and down on rocky beaches. Officially we're metric but people often use either, especially if they're old enough to have been raised with Imperial.
Location: Bellingham WA Aharon, you might want to check out Vulkyn's threads. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The first few times you had at it, you probably could barely please yourself, but with practice and some guidance, you managed to impress one or two prom dates. After you build the thing, pick a nice day and find some water just deep enough that you can't stand up in it. I have just spent hours in the link cthippo suggested, and I am delighted with the wealth of knowledge and camaraderie I am enjoying here. Since I would like a relatively light alternative to partly compensate for the heavier plywood, which wood would you recommend?
It could get a bit hairy when running down steep waves in a lot of wind, but if you get caught in that situation just drop the mainsail, run under jib, and stack the crew aft.

If you remember a model name, pls let me know, so I can consult the oracle (google) and get the plans. I do not intend to be restricted to building this or that dingly just because the plans are for free, if you know what I mean. They also required more internal structure than boats with heavier skins, and the designs tended to be the sorts of boats that beginners wouldn't want to poddle around in.
Of course, all the local factories just changed the names of things like timber sizes and bolts, but the tooling and actual sizes were still the same. The thicker ply would be harder to bend, which may mean a bit of swearing getting the bilge plank on, but it should be do-able. Try to keep it pretty flat, except in drifting conditions when you can heel it some to help fill the sails and to reduce wetted surface. Note that marine ply is not necessarily better timber or glue than some grades of exterior ply. Filling them up with stuff is just more weight and trouble and makes it harder to find leaks and rot. It depends on the brands available locally (I've seen some very good exterior and some fairly crappy marine). If the boat is built reasonably well the tanks shouldn't leak anyway, assuming you are putting hatches on them.
It's common for dinghies to not have anything except air and a little condensation inside bouyancy tanks.

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Comments to «Stitch and glue dinghy plans free»

  1. Smack_That writes:
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