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Speed Strip is the ultimate strip planking material for many applications in boat building, repair and restoration. Speed Strip has been successfully used to build mono-hulls and multi-hulls up to 200 feet in length.
Even with complex shapes, Speed Strip planks snap together quickly and securely without a tendency to override each other when twisted.
Speed Strip is manufactured and supplied in the United States exclusively by Maritime Wood Products under license from Joseph Thompson & Co.
For more information about the advantages of building with Speed Strip Planking System, please click here.
From vertical grain lumber for stringers to flat sawn lumber for laminated curved stems, Maritime Wood Products sources and supplies the best clear Douglas Fir available. We source select Khaya Mahogany and can supply custom milled planking in any thickness for cold molded construction. More recreational boats today are constructed of fibreglass and the care and maintenance of the fiberglass is the biggest factor in maintaining the value of the boat.
With the proper equipment and cleaning products, you can save time while maintaining your boat's beauty and protecting it from the harsh marine elements.
Let me share a few tricks and tips to fix a boat with you, whether it's a small hole or crack, or larger scale damage. Location: Juneau Alaska wood boat repair Hello my first time posting so direct me if Im not doing something right. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Others are better than I am for your type of boat - but they will probably ask for a few pictures of the boat and the damaged area you want to repair to help them give you accurate advice.
Location: Eustis, FL Without a much better description and photos of your boat, most of the replies are shear speculation. Location: Juneau Alaska here is a picture of the bow - I pulled the gelcoat off and sanded down paint not sure how to proceed. Location: Eustis, FL I highly doubt it was gel coat, as this wouldn't be put straight over wood, except by someone who didn't know what they're were doing.
If you're going to epoxy the boat, the minimum would be the whole exterior of the boat, not just the bottom. Location: Tasmania,Australia That white stuff looks like it could be glass. Even so, Pars advice sounds good for a sound hull, and if the bow is anything to go by, a good paint job should work ok. However, you may find that the reason it got fiberglassed in the first place is that some of the hull isnt that good.
In either case, an big hull cleanup, including removing the fasteners, would be the prudent way to start either process. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Restoration of fiberglass over wood flat bottom boat keel?Wooden boat with fiberglass covering the underside of the boat and keel. If you wish to add more photos (or videos) to your post or if you have any problems loading photos use the link below (there is no need to resize or adjust your photos).
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Over time, you boat woodworking will begin to age and you will need to know how to refinish boat wood teak in order to refinish the boat woodwork. You can repair a wooden boat in five ways--adhesive bonding, fillet bonding, reinforced fillet, coating and sheathing with glass. Providing boat repair for Lansing, Flint, Ann Arbor, Grand Rapids, Oakland, Livingston County, and all areas in between. From antique wooden boats and classic fiberglass boats, to the most modern runabouts and bass fishing boats, Ben has the knowledge and ability to get the job done right the first time, every time.
Mitch Maillloux of Lakeville Built ampere Northerner Tender with us several geezerhood ago piece we were building his. Location: Setubal, Portugal Should I repair my wood mast or use aluminum one? It comes with the original wood mast (around 40 years old) and by the meantime the previous seller got a aluminum mast (it measures more 1 ft than the previous one) and have the spreaders broken. I would like to know if it would be better to repair the old wood mast or place the aluminum one.
Location: Eustis, FL The aluminum mast will likely need new hardware, because the wooden mast's will not fit properly. The aluminum mast can be cut down to suit your current sail plan, but there's a fair amount of work to do in this type of conversion.
Edit: The UV-saturated lacquer will make the epoxy last longer without discolouring, and the epoxy will make the lacquer last longer because the lacquer sticks better to epoxy than the wood, and the poxy sticks better to wood than the lacquer (If I phrased that right, it should make sense, lol). Location: Eustis, FL I wouldn't epoxy your mast, unless it was completely dissembled (I'll still not do it, unless a client insisted). Wedge open the obvious seam gaps, clean them and reglue with plastic resin or resorcinol, then clamp strongly until cure.
The profile, which is precision machined to a tolerance 0.015 mm, allows room for the tongue to rotate up to 7 degrees while holding firm in the groove. It requires half the mold stations and frames, minimum fastenings and less glue (because of reduced glue squeeze-out). Matched and sequenced boards are also available for applications such as classic Chris Craft and Riva restorations.
You can also decrease the time and effort of cleaning your boat by cleaning it routinely and by using boat covers when it is not in use.
I'm betting you have a polyester sheathed boat and it's doing what all do eventually, which is spit off their hard plastic coatings.
Under the areas with surface defects, is there bare wood, raw wood or other wise un-coated wood? If this is the case, then grind it all off or forever be dealing with these types of of issues.
With this boat's expected service, you'd be wise to also sheath it, for abrasion protection. If you saw a gap between it and the timber, then chances are it was fiberglass of some sort. Boat is plywood and keel is spruce I think.Water de-laminated the keel from the plywood and pulled the fiberglass off the plywood hence creating air pockets under the fiberglass and keel.Do I need to replace the whole keel, only a section of the keel or can I re-use the keel? The wood teak floors in a boat are just like a normal wood floor when it comes to refinishing them, but refinishing the wood floors on a boat must be done more often then in a home, as the water from the lake or ocean speeds up the breakdown of the varnish.

Especially fresh water (rain) will make a great base for rot, so it's a good idea to protect it against that. It was likely assembled with a shellac interior and was glued with shellac, resorcinol or a hide glue, plus fasteners. Finish with varnish if you want to be able to repair the finish easily, polyurethane if you like, knowing it's more difficult to repair or lacquer if you want the minimum of a glossy clear coat protection and next to no solvent resistance.
The self-fairing, precision fit of Speed Strip planks eliminates the need for scarfing and edge fastening, while cutting fairing and cleanup time by up to 70%. If this is the case you have two choices, grind down until you're back to solidly attached sheathing, fill the area with fairing compound and paint or remove the sheathing a try again. In other words, if you removed the paint directly under one of the bad spots on the deck (underside of the deck) would you see 'glass or wood?
You could use 16 or 24 grit and make very quick work of it's removal, but also very likely need to repair some damaged areas, from the aggressive grit. Apply more varnish remover as need on any areas on the teak flooring that has a thick coat of varnish on it.
Use the fine grit sandpaper to remove any rough spots or runs from the first coat of varnish. If the wooden mast is past due for replacement (it must be accessed by a qualified person), then you may consider the aluminum, remembering the hardware will also need to change. If constructed properly, a traditional wooden build lasts quite a while (as clearly noted in this 40 year old stick), so changing methods and approaches to repair or restoration is unwise and possibly creates potential for new, future issues. The simplicity of the process not only reduces labor hours, but also allows for the use of less skilled labor. 36 to 40 grit would be reasonably fast, with less surface damage if you're careful with the sander. A disk grinder is what I'd use, but this is a tool that can easily remove way more than you ever wanted in just a few seconds.
It's a lot easier to repair and finish a wooden boat without these hard plastic coatings on it. 60 and 80 grit would do even less damage, but you might make a career out of removing the coating. One ultimately managed to upload completely of my build photo’s documenting the construction of my Rascal Runabout WB Plan hundred from January 2002 thru.
The best bet, is to try a grit and if you seem like you're working too hard, go down to a coarser grit.
Two rules with any sander and bulk removing stock: always keep moving and change the paper often. In fact, you'll do this each year and every 4 or 5 or so, a whole new paint job, because it'll look like hell and it'll be due.

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