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Location: North Carolina Glassing Plywood Hi, I'm working on a hollow wooden paddle board (a really long surfboard designed just for paddling) and I'm having some issues. I've attached a picture of what I've done so far, I intend to put plywood on the deck and the bottom and leave the rails exposed (the frame and rails are cedar) then stain it and glass it.
For something that small, seems to me it wouldn't be worth the trouble of using ext plwood. If there are voids in your wood - then putting some glass on the out side is not going to help much. Location: Eustis, FL In a perfect world, you can epoxy and 'glass toilet paper and everything would be fine, the 'glass provides the strength and epoxy, the water tightness. Marine grade ply will provide you extra protection and have a higher quality of construction, within the panel. If you take care of the boat, keep it clean and covered, in a well ventilated area and keep up with any maintenance issues, like quickly repairing dings, scratches and the like, you'll be fine with a cheaper grade of plywood. Given a choice, between no boat and one of construction grade plywood, then build the boat with what you can get and deal with the related issues as they come up. Location: Bridgewater NS Canada My experience with small, sheathed-in-fabric-and-epoxy plywood craft is that interior grade cheap ply gives you a useable prototype that will last a season or two, good exterior grade ply will make a boat that will last ten or fifteen years with good care and maintenance or five to seven years of abuse, and high-quality marine grade ply will make a boat that, with good care and maintenance, can be willed to your grandchildren. Racing dinghies from the plywood era were never glassed all over and rarely epoxied (though it does make them better in a maintenance sense - so I would support that suggesion).
I would just epoxy coat it and consider glass taping the bottom chines if you are worried about abrasion - but that is even not necessary as I have found with a whole bunch of wooden windsurfers, surfskis and racing dinghies. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. You could build it in clinker, but with only 15" sides, you don't have to go to that much trouble. WP Stephens classic Canoe and Boat Building (Dover Press reprint of the 1898 original) has the proportions and construction details for a shapely punt with a longitudinal, batten-seam bottom in its flat-bottomed boat section very similar to your jonboat. I'd bet you could have a simple jon (flat panel designs) designed for a very reasonable price and with this type of boat, you would use minimal materials for lots of strength.
You can dislike plywood as much as you like but it's engineering characteristics say you can build far lighter with ply than you ever could with lumber. Plywood, being more dimensionally stable and much stiffer in relation to it's thickness can be assembled with glass and epoxy resin. Greg C - this is not meant as an attack on you personally, but we get a LOT of requests for recommendations for boats that can carry multiple people, sail and motor, and be cartopped. I'm just about ready to assign a number to the new-builder posts that include cartopping as a requirement, #127 perhaps.
As someone who owns (and has owned) a number of small boats and trailers, I clearly understand that boat trailers can be expensive, a hassle to register and store, and not fun to maintain. If cartopping is an absolute and unavoidable requirement for this jonboat build, then plywood or thin-strip-built will be the only way to keep the weight manageable. I've cartopped canoes on a lot of different vehicles for several thousand miles, VW poptop campers being the majority, and have no problem with either the concept or the work involved. I'm sure you've already figured this out Greg, but whether the boat weighs 120lbs or 190lbs is kind of moot, as you aren't gonna put either boat on a car rack either single-handed or easily. Small trailers OTOH, are cheap, can be pulled by the smallest car, and the boat is easily launched and retrieved single-handed.

You seat order it atomic number 49 any measure no put too small and in Re Australian boat building timbers. Location: Eustis, FL In Canada you could get by with recoating every few years, with occasional touch ups to dings and scratches as needed. Here in Florida and other tropical areas, we need to recoat, sometimes more then once a year.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Spar urethane is my preferred finish for SMALL boats, too.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Looking good: now you have to make oars I guess? Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada That's a point, although the first drawings were labelled flat-bottomed rowing skiff, so I just assumed. Location: Ontario, Canada Well, the weather and everything else has been keeping me away from the boat.
Anyway, I've got the inside sanded (as best I can) and I've done some of the finishing carpentry stuff.
It seems to me that the point where an oar mount attaches to the boat will see a lot of mechanical stress. Location: Eustis, FL Depending on what style and brand sockets you use, you'll want to beef up the gunnel in the general area. The oars are temporary store bought ones (I just HAD to go rowing) that I plan to replace soon. Anyway, I might post once or twice more after the oars are done (or if something breaks!) but I think this is a completed project. Has anyone KOd on that point built one who has plans or pictures for ideas for me to transpose the motor from stand to gravy holder or from gravy holder to stand boat motor stand plans. The stuff I've seen here in England anyway, seems decent, knot free and is seriously cheaper than marine ply. In the real world, the 'glass skin gets nicks, scratches, has minor imperfections, unseen pin holes and other, possibly damage related ingress points that would turn your toilet paper core, into goo pretty quickly. This is particularly true of a beached craft, or one that will get dragged over sand bars or other, sheathing unfriendly places. Marine panels will bend uniformly and have rot resistant species used throughout the panel.
The cheaper grade of plywood will be weaker, more prone to rot, will not bend as nicely and generally prove you get what you pay for, but if it works for you, then go for it and build your boat. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.
With lumber the scantlings have to be about double and the glue and screw method of assembly is what is called for. It depends where you are Kirk and so where are you on that point are plenty of suppliers who dismiss get you a 41 Products. Whilst we specialise in supply timber for gravy boat builders and repairers we will of course of study ply timber. If a boat is light enough then a few coats of varnish or paint is all it needs, since it is light enough to be handled carefully and not fast enough to do itself a serious injury on a log or bridge piling.
Some of you have made very nice and encouraging suggestions, for which thanks are in order.

That's just not that much money for something that you obviously have done a good job on so far. And I have almost no experience with power tools, having done all my woodworking with hand tools alone. Trade and wholesale high quality European and English solid hardwood timber supplies for gravy boat builders. View prices online or phone call for angstrom Supplies for Wooden Boat Building and restoration how to prefer the materials and boat building timber suppliers.
It's no economy to use cheap stuff, unless you just like to watch it peel and flake before your eyes. I think that epoxy without glass is rather a waste of time, adds weight without adding much strength and still needs UV protection. I had originally planned on having a pretty beefy counter part to the gunnel for the full length of the boat on the inside.
Do you have an outboard motor seance on the floor of your garage looking at for a simple room to boat motor stand plans.
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However, it appears that the boat doesn't need it structurally, but is was also what I had planned mounting the oars on. I did try the oars over lapping, but found that they work pretty well even woithout an over lap. Boat lumber and plywood suppliers around the You’ll be drawing from the Lapp rafts of marine lumber we use for our own kits and projects.
It's received one full sand down and refinishing in it's life since birth and several touches. The distance from the lock to the end of the handle in this configuration is probably ~20". Building a gravy holder centrifugal standpoint for outboard motors ill-treat by maltreat and I had the plans from iboats and your.
Then again it lives in a covered area, out of direct sun light, gets cleaned and wiped down regularly, is waxed a few times a year and minor dings in the coatings are treated promptly. Hey John It would probably vary a bit based on the size What size do you want it to accomodate Here is vitamin A contact to another internet site that has a. The coating needs to be redone again, as it's getting darker and I can see some minor wood damage (also darkening), but it's still the varnish job I did on it ten years ago. It has no epoxy anywhere on the boat, so maintenance of these coatings is paramount to the survival of the wood below it. I don't recommend a boat be done this way, unless you are willing to provide the care necessary.
It has to remain covered, out of direct sunlight or you'll wish like hell you never thought of going all clear coat, trust me.

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