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Location: Eustis, FL The Danenberg method is just as costly to preform as an epoxy bottom, doesn't last nearly as long and doesn't insure it'll be waterproof, which epoxy can. In short, you can get another 50 years from her,, using the exact methods previously employed by Chris Craft, possibly with some material substitutions. Location: Eustis, FL If you're 50 and plan on living the expected life span of a 5200 bottom, you'll be doing this again before you're dead. With an epoxy bottom job, you can toss out the intermediates, which saves a fair bit of weight. Asking for further advice while continuing a build in your own way is like asking some one to waste their breath. Good part is, if someone offers REALLY REALLY good convincing advice, you can still return the 5200 supplies. I'll let you know how long it takes for my kid to destroy the epoxy boat tub I built last year. Location: Milwaukee, WI Adding a rigid bottom to that hull will damage the sides, transom, bow stem and deck. Originally Posted by gonzo Adding a rigid bottom to that hull will damage the sides, transom, bow stem and deck. Location: Milwaukee, WI I may not give you good news, but wishfull thinking does not get the job done.
Location: Eustis, FL Actually the hull becomes quite rigid Gonzo, without difficulty. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Pennsylvania Looking for Info (55 Chris Craft Continental) I just recently inherited a 1955 Chris Craft Continental 22' from my uncle.
Location: Milwaukee, WI 5200 is an adhesive caulk that doesn't do too well on below the waterline wood. Originally Posted by gonzo 5200 is an adhesive caulk that doesn't do too well on below the waterline wood.
Location: Eustis, FL Unless that boat has been kept in a cover area for several decades, it's unlikely you'll be able to save the bottom planks. Originally Posted by PAR Unless that boat has been kept in a cover area for several decades, it's unlikely you'll be able to save the bottom planks. Location: South Florida USA You might join this group, I'm sure there are several guru's there that are painfully aware of the particulars of olde chris's. Tim, it sounds like you've found a good example of the type, but again it needs to be professionally accessed. Location: Eustis, FL If Barret Jackson's auction is an example, the clones of 1970 hemi 'Cuda's are commanding nearly as much as the originals, in some cases more, depending on craftsmanship.
Location: Eustis, FL Well of course you lose points at a concours show, judging restoration and original condition craft!
Originally Posted by PAR Well of course you lose points at a concours show, judging restoration and original condition craft! Location: Eustis, FL Very few yacht do the concours shows or will have restorations to this level of analness.
Location: canada hacker speedabout i got plan's - blueprints for a 28ft john hacker speedabout, does anyone know anything about this boat? Location: canada i have looked at a lot of runabouts and racers and i would say yes, it is a racer, but i say somewhere inbetween a runabout and a racer if that makes any sense. Location: Eustis, FL Both of you seem to be interested in a classic runabout or racer. Originally Posted by PAR Both of you seem to be interested in a classic runabout or racer.


Location: British Colombia Canada Have to agree with Par regarding the ride, etc.
Been designing and building this line for over 30 years with fiberglass hull and mahogany or teak deck.
Attached is a shot of one of the Continental gentlemen racer (year 1987) and one of her dash taken this summer while driving her.
Will always love the look of the old woodies - something special about them when your lower back takes a beating at times. A new hull form, well matched against a comprehensive SOR, with the styling of the appropriate era Hacker is the way to go.
In the latest addition of Woodenboat Magizine, the three major reconstruction types are covered.
The 5200 bottom was once thought to be the cure all to some build types, much like those that thought CPES was the cure all to wood rot. 5200 acts as a bedding compound and if a trailer kept boat preforms this job fairly well, though future repairs will have someone cussing at the mentality of the previous repair person for using 3M 5200 rather then polysulfide. On the other hand, you can use an epoxied bottom technique that will produce a stronger, lighter and more water tight version, that will last at least as long, likely longer then the original or you can get a decade and a half out of a 5200 bottom. The primary difference between the 5200 and epoxy bottom job is, the 5200 bottom uses CPES to partly waterproof the wood and 5200 to take up the moisture content changes, while epoxy makes it completely waterproof so there's no dimensional changes in the bottom, wet or dry. Because the frames are bonded to the bottom just makes the structure stiffer, but doesn't prevent the other elements from moving if they so desire.
The seams appear to have had some sort of goo in a tube pushed into them, which typically means the planks will be badly damaged as you attempt to clean the seams. Judging by the apparent width of the bottom seams, you have at least some fastener hole repairs ahead, if not wholesale frame restoration and replacement. You have a true classic and the value will be significantly diminished by taking any path but the original. I can understand why an epoxy bottom would be better than a traditional bottom, no question.
This is the key, as in most things, value is based on the level of craftsmanship, so a well done original build up restoration, may not be as valuable as a very well done 5200 job. Most owners want their yachts to be easier to care for, less costly to maintain and more water tight. Are you prepared for the ill handling and lousy preformance envelop these craft (in general) exhibit?
Dennis Conners use of a multi hull in the Americas cup being a prime example of my first statement.
Again, having been aboard many of these era racers, I can assure you they look great, but that's about it. The boat will live and the owner will enjoy it, rather then have to bring it to a guy like me every winter to have ribs sisters and backbones repaired. All to be spoiled when the ivey league rich boys come on scene with their barrels of money and highly educated engineers.
I'm a 30 year cabinet maker with extensive experience in model race boat building and was looking for a large scale project. Thought the author of the piece doesn't comment on the long term value of the 5200 bottom, it's clear he prefers either just as was done originally or the epoxy. I have another boat for family weekends at the river, this chris is a project boat that will see limited use. Quite the contrary, it was you stating what method you were using and others stating their opinions. The new bottom doesn't move, nor do the lower futtocks, but everything else is still mechanically fastened.


At the very least and this would be the rare exception, the garboards will need to be replaced and the bottom refastened.
In fact any modification from original, no matter how intelligent or innovative it might be, will cause a judge to ding you with deductions, at this type of show. The value of a concours winner is only worth anything, to someone else (potential buyer) interested in maintaining the yacht in this condition. As a rule, these boats were very lightly built, knowing full well they would be replaced in a year or two with a newer, more competitive model. Maybe an era style or something, but I've been in many 20's and 30's era Hackers, Chris Craft, you name it racers and they all are lovely to look at and have moderately good speed in a straight line, assuming you don't mind the ride, spray, very spartan accommodations (if any), etc., but they are flimsy, easily damaged, not long lived things, that I repair on a regular basis for owners that just had to have one.
I say go for it have fun-create a racing club and lay down rules to keep it within the average Jo Blows budget. It costs more to do a 5200 bottom, because the planks have to be sound and the 5200 costs more then epoxy. Load transmission is still permitted and over a larger portion of bottom, then a straight mechanically fastened bottom. I suspect this isn't the case and all of the bottom planks need to be replaced, but you might get lucky. They're judging on originality and presentation, not durability, practicability or resale value. Again, most want to use their boats, not part it on a trailer and leave it in the barn until the next show. They break up, will pound your dental work out, handle like beasts, plus are difficult to build and own. Poorly fitted panels, pop rivets, big fat welds, but from 15 feet away the paint job looks great and the car as a whole seems very clean. The way stock car and boat racing used to be---The Americas Cup along with most of the sports leagues are nothing but who has the most money to put into it . With this type of bottom, you can usually save even really ugly bottom planks, but not so with a 5200 bottom, where the planks must be sound. A concours show boat isn't a boat, it's a trophy, mounted in a case and pulled out to test it's shine against other, none used trophy boats occasionally. A 5200 bottom 5200 is just a modern bedding, other wise is essentially the same as an epoxy bottom. The first thing noticed is hole shots are much crisper, again because the bottom is receiving and dispersing loads much more uniformly then the original or 5200 bottom can deliver. They don't do much very well and even the go fast stuff sucks in comparison to a modern design. While both have the ability to attain hull speed, one does it in less time and more efficiently.
They have a seat, but the weight of a cushion was too much for the competitive driver to tolerate, so he sat on the bare cedar. The thing I like about the 5200 method is that the bottom is soaked as the 5200 cures, thus eliminating the swell factor. OH, and as far as ride is concerned, i don't think that it matter's much if they trimble and shake alittle, we lobster fisherman lol.
The scantlings are usually dangerously light, dainty and fragile, having been literally whittled down to what they believe to be the bare minimum for the loads they expect to encounter.



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