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Location: boise, id Restoring a wood drift boat I am new to this forum, and posted a thread last Friday (I didn't ask the right questions). I have come by an old wooden drift boat, and want to restore it, and reinforce it with fiberglass. When I was a kid I helped a guy build some McKenzie Knockoff's for drifting the western Washington Steelhead rivers. I built one from plans later on (years later) but I deviated from the plans to make the bottom like the knockoffs I dealt with in the 50's. Put those screws every inch or so down both sides and across the stern if you have a wide place for a motor. In your own defence, and maybe you might take me down the river some day, you make sure you have good Oars, and easy to handle Oar locks.
Your first trip by yourself in that drift boat is gonna be a whole book full of Failures and learnings. I bought the plans from a Guy in Oregon, and the plans turned out to be from a designer in Tonwonda NY of all places. The Rest of the boat I made from local stuff except the Marine Plywood that I had to special order from some place in California. The old stuff wasn't as good, and most folks dont spend the bucks to primer and seal it before painting it.
It's an epoxy based stuff and you can paint on it with just about anything and it will hold. I did not know about CPES when I did my drift boat or I would have sealed the bottom with CPES. If it gets splinterd or shards of the outer layers of Plywood start coming off, you can consider some kind of repair or just get the Drill driver out and replace the bottom. If you make one bottom piece, maybe you should keep the jigs intact and make another bottom at the same time.
One more tip, on all those screws, make sure you have some framwork down in the bottom to screw the bottom to. Location: Midlothian, Virginia I answered your other thread but now that I see the boat I feel you should use a heat gun and that paint could all be removed in a weekend. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. With most ships as with the Vanguard the planks closest to the deck will fit full width, the key is not to take too much advantage of this, you pay for it later by not being able to get the lower planks to work out right. The color differences are due to variation in the planks provided with the kit, since I'm painting the hull it's just the one I picked up next. If the taper start point is too close to the stem, it will be very hard to get the plank to lay flat, if it is two far from the stem a S-curve will begin to develop with the distance between the last laid plank not being proportionately equal at the waist and bow. I've often wondered though, why when we pay such particular attention to scale every where else on the model, we use long strips of wood (often the full length of the hull) on the final planking. Welcome GUEST to the Model Ship World Community.Please LOGIN or REGISTER to use all of our feautures.
Building a wooden boat from a set of plans can be a daunting challenge, many potential home builders can struggle at this early stage, and their project comes to a grinding halt before the garage has been cleared! We will be looking at the parts that make up a boat such as hull, bow (front end), bulkheads, planks, decking, keel, stern (rear end), rudder etc. This is the navigation for DIY building advice, do it yourself, home improvement, garden design, garden rooms, self build, timber building, home tips, diy topics, gardens, gardening, green information, and much more. The attention of amateur boatbuilders is drawn to the proposed project, which has been developed from the sales materials of Honnor Marine, builder of the Drascombe series of boats. The hull is sheathed using strips of 7mm thick waterproof plywood (1), using the 'edge-upon-edge' or clinker method. Another, more contemporary method of building the hull with the same "angular" contours is proposed: the strakes may be joined by clips made from copper wire, with epoxy resin and glass tape being applied to both sides of the join.
Both methods of construction are approximately equivalent in terms of labour, expense and reliability.
The stem and keel must be faired before attaching them to the building mould: the stem-piece should be bevelled to accommodate the bunching together of the strakes where they will join the stem.
Before cutting a strake from a plywood sheet, a full-length template should be made from low-quality plywood or hardboard. The first strake to be applied is the lower bottom, and is attached to the keel by 4mm x 30mm wood screws, spaced at 60 mm intervals.

To further simplify this process, the hull can be pulled gently away from the mould using suitable lengths of wood. In spite of the high water resistance of exterior plywood, it's open edges require protection against the penetration of moisture.
For rowing, the boat must be fitted with a pair of removeable transverse thwarts (with the sizes 28 x 250 x 1200 mm), which would be located above the longitudinal bank-seats and prevented from moving along the boat by simple bosses or lugs attached to boards at their leading and trailing edges. The unsinkability of the boat may be assured by providing hermetic sealing of compartments beneath the longitudinal bank-seats (for example between stations 4 and 6), although it would be necessary to provide hermetically-sealed inspection holes in the vertical walls of the compartments for their periodic inspection, repair and drying.
A thickness of GRP skin of 4-5 mm would be sufficient, especially if reinforced by ribs made from plastic foam.
The main-mast, mizzen and gunter spars are of continuous, round cross-section, however it is preferred that these be made from two or even four pine laths, as glued spars are more durable and there is less chance of them warping with fluctuations of humidity. Regarding the sails and rigging of the boat: the mizzen-mast has no standing rigging - it stands in a metal mast step, and is supported by wooden partners at the top of the rudder well.
The running end of this control rope (7) is led back into the cockpit for ease of access by the helmsman. Thus, at anchor, or at the approach to land, it is not necessary to lower the sail from it's mast. The mizzensail-boomkin must be made detachable; for it will simplify mooring by the stern to a high quay and simplify management of the boat when sails are not being used. Installation of the main-sheet of the "Paltus" may be the same as on the original "Drascombe Lugger", when it is possible to control the sail by means of one sheet, and during tacking it is not necessary to adjust the sheet with each turn - the sail automatically passing from side to side, although it is recommended that the sheet's cleat be positioned close to the centreline so that on both tacks the sheet length is approximately equal. The first thing I need to do is sand off the existing paint, what is the next step-do I prep it before I begin the fiberglass process? Then too, lots of them sat out in the weather and the outer layers of the wood just crumbled and the paint had nothing to hang onto. If you only put screws around the outside perimiter, the bottom will 'oil can' and you'll have a thunderous ride down the rapids.
Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. I have found on my current project that the curve at the stem is so severe that I cannot get enough lateral bending.
We are happy to help, advise or undertake this part of the construction process for a reasonable charge. By careful study of this project, a real possibility exists for the home builder, using readily available materials.
The '7mm waterproof plywood' to which Kurbatov refers is a special grade available in Russia. The copper clips only provide a convenient method of assembly, the ultimate strength of the join being dependant upon the epoxy and glass fibre tape.
However, many supporters of clinker construction consider that their method deflects spray and helps to moderate rolling in heavy sea. The strakes are then applied to the previously assembled and carefully positioned transverse frames, keel, stem and transom. The required angle can be determined either by a lath or a length of the plywood used for the strakes. After attaching the template to the curved mould by panel-pins, the lines of the strake are extended outwards from the mould and marks made on the inside of the template.
At the stern, the next strake will present at an abrupt angle which makes the overlap unsuitable for riveting. Thus for a distance of approximately 800 mm it is necessary to chamfer the outer edge of the strake and the lower inner edge of the next strake of the clinker join.
It is necessary to have previously made cut-outs in the frames for the longitudinal chines of the strakes. Then cut wooden battens 58 and 51, and bevel them to fit the hull curvature, before attaching them to both the hull and plywood frame with screws and glue. It's weight is about 45 kg which, when added to the dynamic loads of landing on a sand-bar or even simply when rolling, requires a centreboard case of substantial strength. Two or three layers of fibreglass tape with a width of 25-40mm should be laid on all outer edges, with a wider overlapping layer superimposed upon these. Alternatively, the area beneath the bank-seats could be filled with closed-cell foam buoyancy.
Even if these materials are not available, it would still be possible to build the hull from glued strip-plank laths, or even fir or pine boards, glued edge to edge.

The mainmast is supported by a pair of shrouds, and a forestay - which can be provided by the steel luff-wire 'bolt-rope' of the foresail if jib roller-furling is fitted.
To restore the sail to it's working state, all that is required is to release the control rope, and unfurl the sail by pulling on it's sheets. When you drift down the river hitting a rock is always a strong possibility, so to fiberglass the bottom and up the side of the boat reinforces the structure and allows the boat to stay afloat after a hard hit.
I never heard of anybody ever losing his drift boat because he dropped over a cliff onto a rock and punched a hole so big the boat sank.
That's why I say to have those oars and oarlocks fitted loose so you can jerk an oar out if it gets snagged on a root when your close to the bank.
Referring to the current 2x2 material on the boat-do I take that off or put the treated 2x2 on the out side of the existing board?
If its on the outside it will double as a rub rail and will be much easier to replace if it gets broken. One Leningrad boatbuilder has even employed synthetic thread in place of the copper wire in the construction of an 8-metre plywood yacht. One criticism made of the 'stitch and tape' method, however, is that if the gluing of the fibreglass tape is inadequate, moisture penetration with rapid rotting of the wood may follow.
When constructing the mould, the dimensions of frames 2, 4, 6 and 8 (as taken from the table of offsets) must be adjusted to take into account the thickness of the external plywood skin, as the measurements given refer to the external hull surface. After removing the template, these marks may be joined by using a flexible lath to indicate the position of the next strake. Here it is better to simply butt it's edge against the previous strake and secure with copper wire clips and epoxy and glassfibre tape as described above, after trimming to ensure that the strake fits snugly against the bottom strake. The base, knees and supporting timbers of the centreboard case should be made from oak, with the walls of the case being made from 7 - 10mm exterior plywood, the case being secured to the keel by bolts, with waterproof glue being used throughout.
Covering the joins using just one piece is not an option, as voids may be created along the angles, into which water will subsequently penetrate. This roller-furling consists of a drum (6), attached to the tack of the jib or genoa, being freely rotating relative to it's deck fitting (10). I will have to sand the paint off because it flaking off easily, have you restored a boat like this before? Thus it is necessary to ensure that the seams are covered adequately on both sides with glass tape (using several layers - see later) and epoxy glue.
Within the table, measurements of the chines are considered to be that of the upper edge of the strake. The head of the sail is attached to the halyard by means of a swivel (2), which ensures free rotation of the foresail's luff-wire or bolt-rope without twisting the halyard. Not the soft stuff you buy at Lowes, you need Pine and you may find a place near you that deals in treated wood for underpinning of houses.
I'll probably get upward of three planks when I will have to start the tedious job of tapering.
Well what it means rattling when we vocalise that something is old Norse thing is typical especially some in this country and its inhabitants that you spot from others.Many were built by shipwrights and sailors for excursus Wooden Boat Cradle-5. Then place this template onto the high-quality plywood to be used for the strake, and transfer the line by pricking-through with the point of an awl, before finally cutting-out the strake. Before assembly, a layer of diluted glue should be applied to the internal surfaces of both wells, as a sealing coat. Thin synthetic rope (7) is wound on the drum, so that when it is unwound the foresail is reduced to a dense roll. This magic sum to our place of origin bonanza owner shot over sauce is adapted from vitamin A wheelchair case ratsbane known antiophthalmic factor.
Essentially 1 matpakke consists of slices of dough with liverpai surgical process bananas brunost pink-orange flower on it carefully apart with theme and wrapped sheets. Birthplace boats take vitamin A was for centuries part of the nautical tradition of seafaring nations around the world Wooden Boat Cradle-5.

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