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Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Simplified lapstrake Building Method I have been looking at an adaptation of a lapstrake design, see Zipper Seam Construction. When the planks are pulled together in this way, it acts like the stitches in stitch-and-glue construction: the planks bend and the hull forms to its finished shape as the seams are closed up. Location: Milwaukee, WI You are describing the traditional lapstrake building technique. Originally Posted by gonzo You are describing the traditional lapstrake building technique.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Reading the start of the thread I notice that you say the planks won?t butt along the chines but overlap. Location: Milwaukee, WI I have repaired some Ian Oughtred's boats in England.
In that design those planks really bend at the bow, it must be difficult to get a close joint in that area. Location: Milwaukee, WI The tide came in and it pounded on a rocky beach for a couple of hours. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Located in historic downtown Wilmington, North Carolina along the Cape Fear River, CFCC’s boat building school offers two programs designed to teach students the fundamentals to work in the boat building and repair industry. Emphasizes fiberglass and composite boat building techniques along with training in marine finishes and paints, marine electrical, plumbing and rigging systems. Focuses on traditional woodworking skills and precise wood joinery techniques needed to work in boat building or woodworking trades.
I'm new around here - having just bumped into the forum this evening - but want to share something. The story so far: starting out from complete scratch, I've started building myself a very small wooden boat.
Below I've included some pictures of my progress, as well as my 'plans', which are really just a quick sketch.
I plan to make matching oars for the boat, and possibly add an electric trawling motor, which should propel it at a good clip. In terms of actual construction, I've used Spanish Cedar (Cedrela odorata) and African Mahogany (Khaya ivorensis). I'd love to hear if anyone has comments or questions, and I'll try to keep this thread up to date with any developments, but the weather is still a few weeks away from cooperating with me. Location: Eustis, FL If that blue line does represent the immersed volume it would be in the 700 to 800 pound range which is so over loaded it'll swamp in anything other then a still swimming pool. I was pretty satisfied with the projected displacement - but ultimately have no experience.
Location: Brisbane What would make you think that a boat less than 10 feet, built of light wood, would weigh in over 600 lbs? If you plan on rowing this puppy, build as light as you can and trim the boat with the transom clear of the water. There is only one problem: you're getting me all excited to try it out, and it isn't ready yet!
Location: Eustis, FL Your trolling motor will only push the boat to about 4 knots which is within it's displacement speed envelop, meaning yep, the transom should just clear or be slightly kissing the water underway. You will not really have an idea of how things will work until you splash her and preform some trials under power and oar. The boat is now outside (has been for a week or two - hasn't turned into a mass of splinters due to humidity, either) and I've started all the messy stuff. In the coming weeks I'll be adding trim, gunnels, etc., then flipping it over and doing seats and the like. Keep in mind that it'll be 'dry sailed' (only in the water a few hours at a time) and that I want to keep as much water as possible away from my adhesives. Location: maine Polyurethane, by your description, that which is used to cover floors, and which is clear rather than being a paint, is not thicker than varnish.
Assuming you want to get a clear finish, the varnish has a UV protective additive that won't be found in the polyurethane. You could lay down some plyurethane and protect it with varnish but why go to asll that trouble when varnish alone will do the job? Then you'll have more protection from the sun, which quickly turns polyurethane to a yellow hazy powder. If you start with spar varnish, (as it is properly called), you'll have to do at least 6 coats and probably 8. It's your boat, however, so varnish away if you must, but be aware you're making a purse from a sow's ear, which is fine, but you may want to know the truth, and save a few dozen hours of hard labor. Location: Eustis, FL Polyurethanes cure much faster then traditional varnishes. To be honest, I'd been trying to stay clear of epoxy, but I guess I'll be giving it another look now.
I like the suggestion of epoxying the hull and inside bottom, and then finishing with another clear finish. Location: British Colombia Canada wooden decks Thought I would post an example of replacing a teak deck with a mahogany deck. Location: Eustis, FL What was that teak veneer layed in on the original deck?
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In that project I was trying to eliminate the relatively complex mold required for that method. Stems and other stuff are added in the usual way, but I want to keep it simple at this stage in the discussion to get you opinions on this idea.
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All this will take a while, but I've started to think more seriously about how to finish the boat as well. Spar Varnish is regular varnish, but with more UV inhibitors, which makes it appear with a more amber glow on wood. I know someone who has built several stitch and glue kit boats, and am familiar with the basic principles of epoxying a boat. It appears the caulk lines held up fairly well, but the goo that held the teak, not so much (typical). There are occasions that a company will advertise easy, but they were created by somebody who has an entirely different idea than you do. This will eliminate you needing to purchase lots of unnecessary things that won’t be utilized. It takes you to the experts who can show you in step by step instruction on how to build your first boat, no matter which wooden boats you choose from. Lake skiffs, pirogues, and bateaux are constructed as part of three semesters annually, and several shorter classes offered periodically. Call us or visit our Gift Shop to get one of these beautiful posters, or one of the other Wooden Boat Festival posters.
The planks are then pulled together with several elastic straps from gunnel to gunnel on the outside face of the planks. In this case, instead of the plank edges butting along the chines, they will overlap with the lower plank butting against the staples. I noticed a pencil line on the patch; I assume it's for the lap but it seems wider than the original. Reason to model group is an angle and so I fanny are fiery and chequer off what have through blue-pencil such as don 't want to assist and support generally my aims at the forefront of the Buckeye State and also mine.
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We evoke timber services for business leaders and is sail sailing ships.Join type to be forty-nine Atomic race sauceboat airstream. You might need to build a motor mount that is vertical or raked aft to get decent performance from the motor. I think I came up with about 600 lbs (so, you're pretty much right on the money there PARR - especially when you consider I ignored the fact the boat gets wider near the top).
600lb was the figure I came up with for how much weight (boat plus cargo) it would take to bring the waterline half way up the sides of the boat, not how much I projected the boat would weigh. It has also been suggested to me that I use spar varnish, as it will go on a lot thinner, won't run so bad and setup quicker too. Dory boats are small boats characterized by high sides, open workspace and tapering at both the bow and the stern.
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Iain Oughtred illustrates this in his Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual, but he first cuts a bevel along the edge of the lower plank and applies glue to that.
Or I can taper the lap width to zero approaching the stem but that will require extra reinforcement of the joint; that will be OK if the decks hide it!
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