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My question is: I was thinking of building the frames mostly of plywood, and combining the guessets. If you use CNC router, with good nesting, you can save a fair bit of ply instead of cutting whole frames. Plywood doesn't have the longitudinal strength of solid stock frame futtocks, married with gussets.
This doesn't mean you can't do it, but that the scantlings will need to be tweaked a tad to accommodate the inherit differences in framing materials. Location: La Florida I built boats with the solid wood long members in the frames with plywood corner braces.
For me, it was a side step from building a laminated ring to building a frame out of one or two pieces of sheet plywood and was not able to google anything that said don't and why. To Mr Watson, hello to from Canada, my wife and I spent two wonderfull weeks on Taz in 2009 for the Hobart Woodenboat Festival and toured the Franklin River Boatbuilding School. Ian Glad you had a good time Ian, its Wooden Boat Show again in Jan 2013 ( bi-annual), so preparations are well underway.
The comment "Some of the plans do incorporate plywood into the frames, but (usually) not as the sole frame element. My real interest in the subject is a result of a current project that plans to use plywood frames. Pars comments (always worth considering) indicate that 'real timber' might be worth incorporating into the plans. Location: Eustis, FL Edge fastening is an issue, but tabbing and epoxy can solve this on some build types.
This is precisely why you see dainty little hardwood frames on relatively close centers in some traditional build types. Again you can move the numbers around to help a bit, such as leaving the spacing the same, accepting a weight penalty and reducing the molded dimension a bit to gain reasonable interior volume.
Plywood works well for gussets however---- much better than solid wood where splitting is a problem with short pieces of solid wood.
Plywood frames eat up plywood quickly as well because of the vast amount of waste while solid wood wastes very little. I think a case can be made for plywood frames when building a round-chined design such as would be built stripper style. Location: Eustis, FL My recollection of the boat he's building is the 15' design by Bruce Crandall.


Compared to modern designs they pound, are heavy and have high speed handling issues, if over powered. Plywood sheeting as a diaphram bulkhead is out, but still might think of a laminated ring with filler blocks at the corners. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The Star45 model sailing yacht is easily radio controlled and large enough to see out on the water. You can click on the links and your browser will download to your machine both the CAD (Computer Aided Drawings type DXF and DWG) and the PDF formatted files.
Please note; your machine (PC) may not have a program to display the dxf or dwg files as drawings. Contact John Fisher to obtain custom DXF and PDF files and to report any issues with the files. You need a set of three files for frames and one file for the common building board set up jig.
Drift boat plans wooden boat people, I am just completing a scratch built boat and probably saved a bit of money over a kit.
To the untrained eye, they might appear to be similar to a 'ring' frame but actually two or three components. Making up a 'ring frame' from multiple overlapping ply sections is a pretty common practice.
It's also heavier for the same thickness, so you'll end up with heavier and weaker frames as a result, if using the same dimensions.
This could be as simple as different frame spacing or different dimensions of the frames themselves or a combination of both. I have no qualms about no answers as long as there are qualifying persuasive statements to clarify. It's not that plywood frames can't be used, but that their good and bad points need to be considered in the scantlings.
A hard chine build with relatively straight sided frames, will be lighter and stronger using solid wood futtocks with plywood gussets or lapped and pinned joints. It's actually lighter and stronger this way, than tripling the spacing, doubling the frame thickness and quadrupling (or considerably more) the molded dimension on a plywood frame. Or reducing frame spacing and using similar molded and sided dimensions with an extra stringer or two tossed in, to compensate for stiffness loses.


Is an old design, one of the C class racers, a warped bottom with an odd step, though typical of it's era. They're often wet rides, but this isn't much of a consideration for a racer and they look good with nicely tumblehome sterns. They may not be visible at all or they may display as a text stream of commands for the laser cutting machine.
When ever building remember to measure and verify where you-are-at and that the hull will be true (free of twists or turns). If you use the PDF files please make sure and turn off the scale to fit function in acrobat. The first frame, which started my mind to ponder, would be cut completely as one unit with a hole to access the stem. This is because for the same frame spacing, you can use smaller, both molded and sided dimensions, then the same strength and stiffness physical qualities, if built entirely from plywood, plus the edge fastening advantages of solid lumber. There's several approaches you can take, to incorporate all plywood framing, but you should adjust the scantlings to accommodate the physical properties of the new material choices, if you expect similar strength and stiffness figures for a given weight. Click image to get bigger picture, and if you find How Plastic Frames Wooden Boat Building interesting, you might pin it to Pinterest. Last time I built a wooden boat was a GlenL Squirt some 50 years ago and frames were fitted up from boards cut to shape. So the rest would follow making the most economical use of a sheet of marine grade fir plywood. The only time this get rivaled is with particularly dense hardwoods, though with these you can use even thinner molded and sided dimensions, because of the great torsional stiffness of solid hardwood stock. The original versions of this particular boat liked to trip over it's chine and this boat was an improvement with beveled chines. Bruce Crandall revised it yet again with the hull planked in plywood, and the bottom was laid with stepped layers of plywood to provide longitudinal strakes. Select it and click on the button to choose it.Then click on the link if you want to upload up to 3 more images. The earlier version had a little deadrise all the way to the transom and the newer one was flat.



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