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Location: Reedville, VA Morning Geltlemen, Not sure if we are still talking about the original post, but here's a beautiful hull - the lines came from a 1952 Alvin Beal designed boat. If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Turkey Mounting Twin engine on wooden hull I am currently building a 36' boat. Location: OREGON Hot dip Galvanized iron--if in salt water Bronze would be better but 5-9 times the cost. Extraordinary lengths were taken to make the boat completely airtight and impact-resistant.
Using multiple layers of lightweight cloth has the same protective effect as using a heavier cloth, without obscuring the beauty and clarity of the finish. The WEST SYSTEM epoxy prevents tangential movement in the wood by creating a 100% airtight and waterproof seal. Of course, builder Steven Hirsh will always be ready to provide any necessary assistance for as long as you own the boat.
The long and slender hollow in the bow enables the boat to part large waves and then gradually rise, reducing friction and pounding. Every inch of the boat reflects Steven Hirsha€™s commitment to optimal function and exceptional aesthetics. Location: Auckland New Zealand Considering I don't have any plans to get plans for this build I would really appreciate any imput I realise I will need to draw somthing and conceptualise etc but first here is my situation.
I am currently milling timber and have a good supply of quartersawn macrocarpa and one very large straight and clear log of Pohutukawa.
Whats the best way to make a housing for the mast, I'd like to have a mast that can fold down (unless a fixed mast is going to save me ludicrous amounts of money) do I use steel beams where the mast is going to go for strengh of attachment and save on the bulk that wood will otherwise need to have to support such a structure or will a laminate of say Pohutukawa do the trick. Location: Auckland New Zealand Would I need to purchase the plans from Alan Mummery who originally designed this hull or could I get them from someone with equal an skill level. Couldn't anyone with the skills pick up where he left off and maybe have a fresh opinion with todays more comtemporary build procedures. Also on another level I think a list of Bargins to look out for over the next few years would also be very useful. Why bother with a wooden deck on a steel hull - not the best of ideas in my opinion and you always have leaks with that setup. Usually a steel hull is designed WITH a steel deck and you should not be worried about the little bit of weight off a steel deck over a wooden one - and honestly, not much between then anyhow.
A boat your size I would go for angle iron deck beams of 50x50x6mm and longitudinal deck stringers of 40x5mm flat bar.


In the meantime, I would suggest you check out my website and you may pick up a few pointers along the way.
Location: Netherlands It is not only the longitudinals I am missing, but also some limberholes (or ratholes, never can remember which is which). Location: Auckland New Zealand Thanks Wynard that sounds like sound advice and alot easier to do really. Location: British Columbia Steel hull, etc Putting a wooden deck on a steel hull would be a huge mistake for several reasons.
The last time I put a deck on a 36 footer it took me 8 hours , and another ten do do the cabin and wheelhouse.
A teak deck with frames weighs more than a 10 guage steel deck , especially when you count the sheer clamps and other structural members, ancosts far mor ein both time and money when you count all the bolts , screws ,glues , etc involved, eating up cruising time, which is what it's all supposed to be for .
There is nothing more watertight than a welded steel deck with all the fittings welded down. Maintaining a well painted steel deck with a stainless trim on all outside corners, would be a fraction the amount of maintenance of a wooden deck ,especialy where the wood meets the steel, which is impossible to deal with once problems begin between the two surfaces. If you like fancy woodwork , keep it below decks ,where it doesn't make a slave out of you. Location: British Columbia Steel hull As long as the hull is fair , she has enough framing.
It is impossible for any bedding compound to hold together indefiniltly while the wood over it is constanly shrinking and swelling.
On going steel boat maintenace » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Scud or Warwick 24 - Wooden boat with stainless steel and aluminum lift keel! The Draco Volans by Sam Devlin is under construction & it's new owner Ed Schulman, has very determined views about it. Sorry if in the questionnaire you'll find some italian words, it's a limit of Google tool I've used to prepare the poll. To start, rot resistant woods were used throughout: old growth Western Red Cedar for the hull, New England white ash for the topsides, cypress for the mast and boom. But he decided it would be much more dynamic to design a boat that seamlessly converts from a skiff to a sailing rig. She wanted to build the boat like a pirate ship like on Pirates of the Cariabian - a raised cabin at each end with a flat deck in the middle.
I'm looking at beginning work next winter as this is the onlt time of year when I have any spare time.
What I need to know is can I build the rest of this boat in timber is there an advantage to that or should I lay out some of the interior framework in steel, hatches ,cabin, helm etc and finish in timber over the steel. I would like to be held by the hand and told what to do every step of the way so long as I can ask the questions I need to ask and recieve answers that make sense to me.


The reason I ask this is I have spoken to Mr Mummery and although he living in Auckland about 15 Klm away he isn't even interested in coming to see the hull in person. Not that I want to do this totally on the cheap but for example if someone was say wrecking a boat what would you salvage? Why not keep it steel and it all forms one structural unit, free of leaks and virtually indestructible. Down East hull form & Lake Union Dreamboat derived looks to suit the North West cruising conditions.
Yet these three layers make for a nearly impenetrable seal, able to withstand millions of cycles of stress.
His mastery is evident not only in the exceptional quality of the work, but by the fact that West has asked him to test new products for them. The alarm went off on the crane and we worked out she must weigh about 2 to 2.4 tonne as is. It is practically free for me which is the sort of thinking that got me into this mess in the first place. I have a friend who is a shipwright and very skilled has been building boats in steel and wood all his life about 40 years restores classic ships for museums and is invloved in the multimilliom dollar restoration of the Toroa as a consultant. Advice of advocates who have never maintained a single steel boat over more that ten years for any one boat, should be taken with a grain of scepticism. While this may not be accurate it is in such common use in the industry that fighting it is a steep uphill battle. It would suit Southern England conditions as well as Summer has turned out colder & rainer than the Met Office forecast.
I'm not sure if you would remember this LazyJack but at the end of Lincoln Rd in Henderson, Auckland now there is a ferry being restored called the Toroa its the only double ended ferry left in the world apprently(kiwi's are always saying this or that is the only thing left in the world or biggest in the world etc) and I have some peolpe who want to use my Pohutukawa log in that restoration for some major structral componant something to do with the drive system but I think stuff them they can use Jarra. When I said I didn't want to purchase plans I really meant I did not want to deal with a naval architect who has no passion for the project take his fee and walks away. Am I a cheap *******, maybe, do I want to understand more about building this boat with a view to long term strength, minimal maintenance and making the most of the planning phase to address my forseable needs into the future ie.
I don't care if he designed it originally and I'm sure he's a great guy but I don't think he is really interested at this point in his life.
Trying to attach wood strongly enough to stop movenent and thus maintain the a seal would be impossible matching a material that swells and shrinks with one that doesn't .




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