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I enjoy looking at all of the projects here on DIY Wooden Boat, so I decided that I would post my own project. If you wish to add more photos (or videos) to your post or if you have any problems loading photos use the link below (there is no need to resize or adjust your photos). So, before selecting your photo please use the 'Message Box' to indicate to which post the photos belong. Location: Scotland Bilge Keel Balast Repair I have a 21ft Vivacity yacht that ran aground on stones and one keel was damaged and the balast came out,there were lots of 1 inch pieces of metal lying around the stones,does anyone know what can be used as balasto repair the keel,someone said concrete can be used but i dont know what the weight of the other keels balast is so i need information on the manufacture specifications. The stretched version of this yacht (Vivacity 20) has an iron ballast, possibly pellets, but usually separate pig castings (small enough to manhandle), about 760 lbs. Location: Scotland Thanks for the replies,yes that photo is similair to my yachts keels but i cant figure out how to upload photos of my damaged yacht keel and rudder.
Location: Lakeland Fl USA Michael is correct that lead is easy to work with. You can find lead in scrap yards, plumbers supply stores, and sometimes you can get a lot of it cheaply from tire stores. Location: Essex UK The Vivacity was a cheap production boat in the first place, built just down the road from here they used steel punchings set in resin.
Location: Eustis, FL If the repaired fin has lead and the other has a punchings and resin mix, the CG in the lead fin will be lower, making for a good tack and a bad one. I agree and exteranl shoe would be best, as it's the easiest thing to fix if damaged and places the ballast as low as practical on a fin, but you'd have to reinforce the fin to accept the lead shoe and you'd be best advised to do this on both bilge keels. If it was me, I'd just repair what you have and pour, 550 pounds of pre-coated boiler punchings into the fin, topping it off with more resin and some fabric and call it done.
Location: spain To avoid exotherm I recently used ChocFast to congeal 100kg of lead shot into bilge cavities. Location: Scotland My yacht is a Vivacity 650 made in 1973,i will post more photos just to make sure if you can tell me that 550 pounds is the correct weight for the balast. Location: Scotland Thanks for all your advice but things have become even worse,the harbour master tried to tow my yacht off the stone beach to tow it back to harbour but because its unbalanced with one keel balast gone it rolled over and now it is full of water,do you think he knew this would happen or not,now it is even more difficult to get someone with a crane or digger down to the beach,the harbour master had a digger but said it would be more expensive transporting by road and it was cheaper to tow it on water. I have beached this yacht 2 times before and i just waited until the tide returned and used my anchor to pull it backward of a sand bank,but this time 2 people walking on the beach called the coastguard even when i told him not to,they arrived and one of them said they would use there boat after midnight when the tide came back in to tow me off the stones,but they never came back,another of them said force 6 gales are on there way and it too dangerous to stay on your yacht and insisted i sleep in my tent,the next morning there had been no gales and my keel had been damaged and im now kicking myself for allowing these incompetant people to inffluence my decision to stay on my yacht,i assumed they were proffessional coastguards.
Now the Porthmadog harbour master says the only solution is to break up my yacht with there digger and take it to the scap yard,he says the 2 keels have now been damaged which i think would make it BALANCED AGAIN and could be towed after pumping the water out of the cabin,but they said the hull has been punctured where the keel joins to the hull,PROBABLY BECAUSE THEY DRAGGED IT ACROSS THE STONE BEACH AND WRECKED IT,IS IT SALVAGABLE?
I have a mooring 10 miles away from where my yacht is sinking,has the coastguard and harbour master got a legal responsibility to tow it back to my mooring,there excuse was if it sunk at sea on the 10 mile crossing i would be responsible for removing it from the sea bed. I invested a lot of time and money doing repairs to the yacht traveling 18hour journeys from Scotland to Wales once a month so i could sail it back to Scotland,NOW THE DREAM is a nightmare.
Location: Eustis, FL In this country you'd have a few avenues of pursuit in this matter, but I have no idea what's available to you.

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Now here's the one you've been waiting for, the portside knee just trimmed enough to start down into the recess. From here it might just be a matter of trimming the ends to let the knee settle into place.
As the cuts on the knee were made on the bench, the knee is much more likely to be a perfect shape than the recess into which it will fit. The knee itself represents a fair amount of effort and I feel it's worth some care in fitting.
Jim -it was great to meet you yesterday and I want to thank you and Tracy for the shop tour and the hospitality. It was a pleasure meeting and talking to you, Tom, and we look forward to seeing you again soon.
C'mon, Nick, you know how much work those fiddly little grooves are when it comes time to repaint.
The boat will be quite plain in surface finish, mostly paint with just a few varnished bits. Him, and a few hundred (thousand?) others, myself included, always waiting (im)patiently for more. If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours. Nick, I know that Deks Olje is popular in Britain and Scandinavia, but our summers here are much hotter, most days being in the 80-90 degree F range.
You know how much I hate disagreeing with you, but it takes a little more than a swipe of the plane to fit a T+G stave around a radius. The cockpit coaming and cabin side are going to be one continuous lamination composed of four quarter inch thick mahogany veneers. As you can see from the section drawing, the seat backs are seperate from the coaming, as the coaming will have some inward slant and the seat backs an outward slant. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
Again, I'm assuming it's a FRP hull with hollow bilge keels, that have precast slugs for the ballast. I don't know if they used punchings or solid cast ingots, but the weights above will get you done just fine. Automobile wheel balance weights are usually replaced with new ones when installing new tires.
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If it's an external ballast, bolted to the keel stubs, then you'll need to do something else (casting), but though different, not as much trouble as it might sound. I low balled an offer and it got accepted so I trucked her down here to Lake Norman in North Carolina.Ed Monk Sr. If you do melt some lead, make very sure that there is no moisture in places where you might pour it.
I'll assume they made these the same as the Alacrity 19 and Vivacity 20, but I can't confirm this. You'd be wise to repair the keels and use sand bags to insure this weight doesn't produce a list.
Most of the time, people in semi official positions, think they have more authority than they actually do and use this as a bullying tactic, to do what they want. My boat was built in Washington state, cruised Alaska, and somehow ended up in New Jersey before finding here way up to the Lake George region of NY state, and eventually VT, so she's a real rarity for this side of the country.Of course my initial self survey didn't begin to uncover all the problems that plagued my boat. So after 2 new frames, 5 sistered frames, new breasthook, forward deck, graved stem, 14 frame tops, new deck shelfs, garboard planks, cockpit flooring, port & starboard step ups, side boards, 4 planks, all new circuit panel and AC wiring and a complete wooding to bare hull, she's starting to look much better.I soaked her up last season for a week and she did pretty good. You can just pour them into a hollow keel (my assumption) or they can be glue together with epoxy. For this boat, you'll need 7 to 12 of these and they can be placed on top of the existing ballast, within the bilge keel, maybe in a tray that has a top, that can be dogged down.
I've found once the attorney calls, all of a sudden things get done professionally, with apologies and consolation quickly following, often with now much more expert advice, on how to proceed.
The perkins 4108 diesel fired right off too, which was a big relief!I've learned a lot working on her. You can also glue them together with concrete, but this takes up a lot more space, making the casting less dense. I've also learned that fixing up an old wooden boat is actually more expensive in the long run than buying one that is already in moderately good shape. When you take into account the cost of materials, yard storage bills, and equipment repairs & replacement.

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