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Atlanta wooden boat association membership
Hi folks, my name is Dexter Barnett and I'm a third-generation sailor and woodworking boat craftsman. There are many who can appreciate the classic look of a wooden boat and are advocates for wooden boat restoration. The amount of work that wooden boat restoration requires depends on the status of the craft.
If you happen to find a particular person that offers the best tips on your wooden boat restoration project you can check out their profile and send them a private message asking for more information. Why a new wooden boat in the 21st Century?To own a newly built wooden boat is a novel experience in the modern world.
WBRF offers Saturday workshops for those who want to learn about wooden boat construction and restoration. Cost is $75 per Saturday and includes: Instruction, gratuity of instructor, shop expenses, materials, and use of larger tools.
Location: boise, id sandblasting a wooden boat I am restoring a wooden drift boat and the first step is to sand off the existing paint.
Location: Eustis, FL Soda ash and dry ice work well on wood, especially dry ice, but it's very easy to tear out the wood, between the growth rings, especially on some species. Originally Posted by pduhglas I am restoring a wooden drift boat and the first step is to sand off the existing paint.
Location: Midlothian, Virginia You might want to look into a chemical stripper product called Peel Away or a heat gun. Location: Essex UK Sandblasting a wooden boat can be successful, i have done it several times with restorations. Location: switzerland sand blasting wood hulls Your post is perfect for my problem.
Location: Essex UK A company i know of restore Dragons to a very high standard. Location: Eustis, FL All media blasting if fought with possible issues, unless the media is exceptionally soft, like soda ash.
Glensail, this is a 3 year old thread, so you may want to start a new one addressing your specific issues. Originally Posted by PAR All media blasting if fought with possible issues, unless the media is exceptionally soft, like soda ash.
As an old pro myself on work boats I use a propane plumber's torch on a 5 gal bottle, a carbide scraper and a light touch.
The idea of walnut shell blasting medium sounds interesting for the interior of a smooth and highly finished vessel like a Dragon (IOD) and seems to have a good track record according to another post above.
I used to repair the frames in these for tension breaks and the boats are pretty universally varnished inside.
Heat guns and torches work, but can cause damage, can drive oils and other contaminates deep into the wood, etc., not to mention wielding a torch around in the confines of a boat's interior can be problematic. Chemical strippers have come a long way since the days of hold your breath as long as you can around the stuff. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I'm new around here - having just bumped into the forum this evening - but want to share something.
The story so far: starting out from complete scratch, I've started building myself a very small wooden boat. Below I've included some pictures of my progress, as well as my 'plans', which are really just a quick sketch. I plan to make matching oars for the boat, and possibly add an electric trawling motor, which should propel it at a good clip. In terms of actual construction, I've used Spanish Cedar (Cedrela odorata) and African Mahogany (Khaya ivorensis).
I'd love to hear if anyone has comments or questions, and I'll try to keep this thread up to date with any developments, but the weather is still a few weeks away from cooperating with me.
Location: Eustis, FL If that blue line does represent the immersed volume it would be in the 700 to 800 pound range which is so over loaded it'll swamp in anything other then a still swimming pool.
I was pretty satisfied with the projected displacement - but ultimately have no experience.
Location: Brisbane What would make you think that a boat less than 10 feet, built of light wood, would weigh in over 600 lbs? If you plan on rowing this puppy, build as light as you can and trim the boat with the transom clear of the water. There is only one problem: you're getting me all excited to try it out, and it isn't ready yet! Location: Eustis, FL Your trolling motor will only push the boat to about 4 knots which is within it's displacement speed envelop, meaning yep, the transom should just clear or be slightly kissing the water underway.

You will not really have an idea of how things will work until you splash her and preform some trials under power and oar. The boat is now outside (has been for a week or two - hasn't turned into a mass of splinters due to humidity, either) and I've started all the messy stuff. In the coming weeks I'll be adding trim, gunnels, etc., then flipping it over and doing seats and the like. Keep in mind that it'll be 'dry sailed' (only in the water a few hours at a time) and that I want to keep as much water as possible away from my adhesives.
Location: maine Polyurethane, by your description, that which is used to cover floors, and which is clear rather than being a paint, is not thicker than varnish. Assuming you want to get a clear finish, the varnish has a UV protective additive that won't be found in the polyurethane. You could lay down some plyurethane and protect it with varnish but why go to asll that trouble when varnish alone will do the job?
Then you'll have more protection from the sun, which quickly turns polyurethane to a yellow hazy powder. If you start with spar varnish, (as it is properly called), you'll have to do at least 6 coats and probably 8. It's your boat, however, so varnish away if you must, but be aware you're making a purse from a sow's ear, which is fine, but you may want to know the truth, and save a few dozen hours of hard labor.
Location: Eustis, FL Polyurethanes cure much faster then traditional varnishes. To be honest, I'd been trying to stay clear of epoxy, but I guess I'll be giving it another look now. I like the suggestion of epoxying the hull and inside bottom, and then finishing with another clear finish.
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I'm lucky to have an opportunity to combine my love of sailing with my love of woodworking into a business of restoring old boats.
Some of the best wooden boats that offer the most beauty happen to be those antique ones that were brought back to life through wooden boat restoration.
One way to find out how much work is involved in the wooden boat restoration of a particular craft is to take a photo of it and post it in a forum. Butler & Co's skills, art and craftmanship are used to construct new wooded boats to last another hundred years. These were quick, cheap, uncomplicated, practical methods of boat construction using sawn English Oak framing and best quality planking. Inspired by historic British working cutters, we construct and restore authentic wooden boats from the Old Mill Boatyard in Dartmouth, Devon.
Workshops are run by experienced shipwrights and cover a wide range of building and restoration techniques.
Considering the cost of media blasting with soda or dry ice, chemical strippers look much more economical too. Just finished burning all paint off the deck of BERTIE, a fat 40 footer with huge deck space last week. For large projects there are specialized tools that will remove paint safely, typically abating the surface. I have a little project going that might be appreciated around here - or, quite possibly, picked to pieces!.
Really, there is nothing in my past to indicate I'm capable of doing such a thing, but, being a little bull-headed when it comes to looking things up like a responsible person would, I've just plowed ahead at pretty much full steam. I've actually got the entire haul planked over the frame (such as it is) and am now ready to do some finishing. I'll probably use some white ash as well, as I can get it locally in long lengths and for a good price. I'd done a very rough calculation (ignoring both the rake of the sides and the curve of the bottom) to determine the displacement.
It is also misleading in that the actual boat is closer to 9 feet long, as that let me build without having to scarf any of the planks.
All this will take a while, but I've started to think more seriously about how to finish the boat as well. Spar Varnish is regular varnish, but with more UV inhibitors, which makes it appear with a more amber glow on wood.

I know someone who has built several stitch and glue kit boats, and am familiar with the basic principles of epoxying a boat.
By clicking Confirm bid you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. It's almost like working with a piece of history as I strip away the old varnish and slowly begin the process of bringing the old beauty back to life.
Fiberglass boats just will not show off what the wonders of maritime adventures have to offer.
Wooden boat fans hang out on the internet and they are eager to reply with posts that show how much they know about wooden boat restoration. Having someone with great knowledge about wooden boat restoration on your team can make the work go by quickly. From there you can complete your wooden boat restoration project by sanding down the old finish, filling in any cracks, and applying the varnish and sealant.
The builders used straightforward, well-practiced skills, techniques, tools and craftmanship. Currently WBRF is offering a workshop in East Haddam CT but is looking to expand these workshops to other locations.
I'm a pretty heavy guy at around 210lb, but even with another passenger and a bit of lunch (plus the boat, which is pretty light) it should be OK in calm water.
Does this advise remain the same when using an electric trawling motor, or is it specific to rowing?
Polyurethanes are generally superior to regular varnish in moisture protection (by a few percent), but are harder to repair or touch up when the time comes. Regular varnish is a different animal and application is more of an art form, subject to lots of debate, technique and methods.
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. So, join me while I post some of my articles and photos and we take a journey together -- restoring boats!
The truth is that wooden boat restoration is not a hard project; it just takes having the right information. They can tell you every single thing you need to do for your particular wooden boat restoration project. They may even refer you to a professional who can give you a quote for the wooden boat restoration work.
The results were boats that were incredibly seaworthy, easy to manage under sail, strong and tremendously durable - the many still around today are indeed witness to their success! It does not work well on softwood where the growth rings are harder & softer leaving a surface like a worn out old shed! It hardens and toughens the wood, kills any and all fungus or mold anywhere near the surface and dries it so the primer sticks wonderfully.
You might need to build a motor mount that is vertical or raked aft to get decent performance from the motor. I think I came up with about 600 lbs (so, you're pretty much right on the money there PARR - especially when you consider I ignored the fact the boat gets wider near the top). 600lb was the figure I came up with for how much weight (boat plus cargo) it would take to bring the waterline half way up the sides of the boat, not how much I projected the boat would weigh. It has also been suggested to me that I use spar varnish, as it will go on a lot thinner, won't run so bad and setup quicker too.
It is these practical, traditional woodworking skills that Butler & Co keep alive in their vessels.
It is however rather rough if you're not careful and some of the surface inevitably gets slightly burnt and unfair. Chemical stripping (there are several new ones check the ads in WOODEN BOAT magazine) or in my opinion an option is heat gun. On heavily coated (many layers) pieces, you may need to do it more then once to get down to raw wood, but when you do, you haven't stained, scorched, scratched, marred the wood or raised the grain. Besides, you'll spend a week with a crevasse tool on a shop vac, getting all the media bits out of the nooks and crannies of the bilge if you media blast.

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