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I haven't been in this boat, but with a bottom width of 7' and a draft of only 7" it should be quite stable. An 18 ft x 7ft boat is not tippy by any sense of the term unless you weigh about 230+ and walk the rub rail continuously.
Edited to add: It looks as if the plans do have the console more forward than in the picture of the completed boat. Parker lives down there part of the year, and generally has one of the better eyes for doing interesting things in ply. Be careful when selecting a design to built without seriouslyl considering your needs in such a boat.
As Pipefitter said above, you will require at least a 90hp for the design you have mentioned.
Any suggestions would be great - I'm leaning towards a flat bottom as it appears to be a little less complex but I want to do it the right way so I've got a boat that lasts. I looked at all the designs you mentioned but would perfer to see your answers to some of the questions above before commenting.
I plan on using it some on the area lakes but heading down to the TX coast and going for Reds in the flats is where I want it to shine - I can put up with some shortcomings in other areas knowing there's no perfect boat for all situations. We feel a flats boat needs to run shallow enough to get around the area you fish in a practical sense.

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Seems like it would help a little if the console was moved a little bit forward and expand that rear deck which is all but useless for fishing as set up in the picture.
The completed hull is rock solid, dry in ride, stiff, quiet, and very easily driven and very well thought out in layout and practical use in fishing.
Building lighter and simpler is easy if you want to lower the power of your outboard and I feel comfortable in saying if you built on the light end of the spectrum, you could go with a 50hp outboard. Our photographers provide royalty free stock photos, stock photographs, graphics, and pictures for as little as 1 dollar. Sure, the ride would be good for the captain that far back but that's a lot of wasted space just to have the seat added to the poling platform.

This is one that a fellow aquaintaince built and he added sponsons to the transom with a 115 yamaha IIRC.
Powered with a jet pump on a 90 hp Yamaha, but easily changed lower units to the normal prop. I've done wood framing before but haven't worked with fiberglass or epoxy at any real level. You are not reinventing a mouse trap, but narrowing down your specific needs before selecting a design.
Consider that an old 12 foot V hull aluminum hull with a plain old 15 hp outboard will not run very shallow since you need about 15" for the skeg of the motor to run clear. The layout would be slightly different in the stern if going with a center console or side console.
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The HPX moves along silently without hull slap and the hull weights slightly less than 500 lbs. Poling is very easy even in windy conditions (20-25 mph) as the hull is easily driven and you can intercept a game fish in most any conditions.
Say, a motor that will cruise sweetly and quietly at 4800 rpms, compared to 5500+ continuously on smaller engines at the same speed, at least as far as two strokes are concerned.
The bottom line is that you analyze carefully your needs in a hull so that when completed you will have a craft that meets all your needs.
Many fish in standard type setups, stay in the channels and just raise the motor up to drift very shallow.
I don't need to run a long distance to get where I'm going, but it can get choppy around here. So rather than a flush deck up front, I'd rather have a little bit of a lip around the forward casting platform, just a few inches tall.

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Comments to «Wooden flats boat for sale»

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