How to make a wire cage pendant light,shop the walking dead zombie survival kit,long term food storage shelf life,american pie full movie in english online - Step 3

Build Rabbit Hanging Cages - Detailed Instructions and PlansNew Rabbit Supply website just launched! The first and most important decision is whether you should build your own cages or buy rabbit cages already built.
What we did gain clearly was the ability to customize our cages to our barn: we made them just like we like them and made them to fit our spaces exactly. Now that you’ve decided to build your own cage, you’ll need to decide on the size you want to make.
We allowed space for a hayrack on the door, our automatic watering system and a through-the-wall type feeder.
You can twist your own cage latches, or order them custom done from a rabbit cage supply company. Next, buy a heavy-duty tool to remove j-clips (those are the little metal connectors that are the primary means for building the cages).
Get some plastic, snap-on cage edging for door openings and possibly the top of your hayrack. The directions I give here will be for a triple cage, 6 feet long, with three compartments that are 24” x 24”. Floor with baby guards: Cut one piece of your floor mesh (either ?” x ?” or ?” x 1”) that is 78 inches long and 30 inches wide (your wire probably came 30 inches wide).
To customize, cut the floor the width of the entire cage plus 6 inches by the depth of the cage plus 6 inches. End walls and Divider Walls: Cut four pieces of 1” x 2” mesh (I’ll call this wall mesh) 24” x 16”. Doors and Door Reinforcement: I will give the dimensions we used, but remember to make yours the size you need to fit in your kindling boxes or accommodate anything else you might want to mount on the front of your cages. To customize, make sure you cut your doors larger than the openings by 2 to 3 inches in both dimensions. Use the lumber scrap to hold down the bottom of the floor (I held it down with my feet) and begin bending up the 3-inch edges a bit at a time. Now use two j-clips to connect each corner, making the bottom look like a large, shallow box. From the crease you made by bending up the wire, count or measure over 2 feet and 4 feet (check it by going from the other direction as well).
It’s a good thing that you thought about what you want on your cage front, because now it’s time to cut out the door opening. Assemble the hay rack by bending the main panel three inches from each end, making a U-shape that will be the front and sides (the door or cage wall serves as the back).
It is imperative that you measure for the last cage in a row before you build it, if there is an obstacle (like a wall) on the end. Even though we’ve been talking about building cages, I can’t help but take a second to talk about what goes underneath. The wire is shaped and then hammered to produce a faceted texture, making them reflect the light beautifully at any angle. This tutorial will show you, step by step, how to make this sturdy wire-wrapped cubic cage.

We also know how to repair our cages or alter them and we have the supplies and equipment to do that as well. If they wander into another hole, they can easily be killed by the doe next door, who is protecting her own space. We did not count on space for temporary waterers (such as when we are medicating or when our normal watering system freezes). There are several sizes and two basic kinds: galvanized before (which is more expensive) and galvanized after. From each corner, remove a 3” square, leaving a solid outline (the part that you cut away will look something like a square comb with teeth in two directions).
You will use one on the right end, one on the left and two to divide the cage into three compartments. Cut three pieces of wall mesh 12” x 14” and three pieces of wall mesh 4” x 14” (these pieces reinforce the door and hold the latch).
Ours are rather large as we feed hay to our rabbits continuously and don’t mind the large amount of hay lost to their entertainment.
The spring latch must be attached to the door so that it misses the vertical wires on the wall. The cage isn’t all that heavy, but the hooks have to have constant pressure while you are putting on the other hooks—if not the first come off and you have to start over. Even though our barn is 24 feet long, we could not fit four six-foot cages because the cages are somewhat rounded and have double walls where two cages come together—they don’t lie perfectly smoothly against each other. But if you want a state-of-the-art, customized cage and don’t mind putting a bit of work into it (and want to save some money, perhaps), keep on reading!
The solid sides keep rabbits from spraying each other and staining other rabbit’s fur. You need a door that is big enough to accommodate your kindling boxes and allows you to reach shy rabbits in the back. From scraps, cut three pieces of wall mesh 14” x 10” (use the 1” direction for the 14-inch dimension because you will bend at the 3” mark) and three pieces of wall mesh 3” x 8”. We cut ours 11” x 10” and put it near the left so that we had room for our water and feeder on the right. We placed another s-hook on each chain, level with each other, at the height we wanted the top of the cage to be. But we did have cage-building materials lying around for a couple of months before we were finished. Also, if you have any way to get the materials cheaper or free, building your own is the only way to go. You need space for your watering system—whether it’s an attached crock, automatic waterer or watering bottle. I would only use the more expensive variety if my cages were more subject to the weather or if I plan to use a lot of water under the cages, such as for washing away the rabbit waste.
Just make sure that the ?” side is placed up so that the rabbit’s feet rest on the smoother side.
You can see why the closer mesh is easier on their feet and might save some sore hocks in the future.

When you finish, your flat box will be divided into three, evenly spaced shallow compartments. After the spring latch is attached to the door, securely attach the reinforcement panel over it and check again to see that the spring latch will hit the right place. Cut your snap-on edging and attach it to the rim of your door opening and possibly to the top of your hayrack (you will save a lot of scratches on your hand when you are stuffing hay into the rack).
Then we hung one end of the cage first and pulled it out from the wall to maintain tension. I empty these every few weeks into the compost pile or around our orchard trees or wherever it’s needed in the garden (rabbit manure is a cold manure and can be used fresh, without composting). Probably with shrewd purchasing and just a little luck, we could have bought just about the same number of holes for the same amount of money, more or less.
Our holes are 2 feet x 2 feet (except for the last ones in each row, that had to be cut to 23 inches to fit).
We’ve had three rabbits damaged so far when their long ears have drooped into the next hole. Be sure to measure on the panels two feet where the walls should meet—don’t depend on it “looking right.” Until the cage starts to take shape, any number of places on the panel will look right. You can also cut your wire and mount your feeder at this time, if you are going to use one. Then attach the door to the cage with j-clips, flush with the “hinge” side of your opening. We then hooked the remaining two back hooks followed by the remaining two front hooks and then slowly released the cage into place. It is not financially worthwhile to make just a few cages because the tools involved are somewhat of an investment.
The down side to that is that spray reflects back onto the sprayer and can soil his fur more.
Make any final adjustments to the spring latch so that it will latch with reasonable ease and puts the appropriate pressure on the door to keep it closed. In these bins, we plan to grow earthworms, harvesting the castings for our gardens and using the worms for fishing and perhaps one day, to sell.
If the chain were just a bit too loose, we twisted the eyehook in the rafter to make any fine adjustments needed. It’s a good idea to use the pliers, especially the needle-nosed, to hold the wire together before putting on the j-clip. Then we cut the chain and went on to the next cage, starting it on the end s-hooks of the previous cage.
In some cases, we used j-clips to bind together cages that refused to hang flat against each other.

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