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At the switch the white wire (hot) coming from the light, will be connected to the dark colored screw.
At the second switch, attach the black wire to the dark screw and the white and red to the light colored screws. For more elementary wiring diagrams of different 3 way circuits scroll down to the bottom of the page. For 4-way switch wiring, you will need two 3-way switches (one at each end) and then as many 4-way switches as you want in between. At the first switch (a 3-way switch), the white wire (hot) coming from the light, will be connected to the dark colored screw.
At each of the next switches except the last, use 4-way switches, attach the the red and white of the wire coming into the switch to the bottom of the switch's screws. At the last switch (a 3-way switch)attach the black wire to the dark screw and the white and red to the light colored screws. As the dust (or perhaps ice) settles on Salt Lake City following the annual Outdoor Retailer Winter Market, Utah start-up is positioned to develop a new market of personal power generators.
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The easiest wiring of a light switch you can do is with a single-pole standard light switch.   View the following wiring diagram instructions on the wiring of a switch and replace that switch today!  This article explains the two most common methods for wiring a basic light switch. One method is to bring the power supply in to the light fixture outlet box, and then use what is called a “switch-leg drop” to the switch box, and the other way is to bring power in to the switch box, and then run the “switched” cable up to the light or lights.  The second method is by far the best way, especially if you are using the switch to control more than one light outlet. Run your 2-wire power feed cable to the outlet box for the light fixture.  Then run a 2-wire cable to the outlet box for the switch that will be used to control this light. Properly install the cables in the device boxes and terminate your ground wires as per code rules and accepted trade practices. The white neutral conductor from the source is connected to the white wire(s) or neutral terminal of the light fixture.  The remaining black wire returning from the switch will be connected to the black wire (s) or the hot or live terminal for the light fixture. In the switch box, the white wire (which is a hot wire as described above) is again identified as such, and is connected to one of the terminals of the single-pole switch (It doesn’t matter which of the 2 terminals, but  personally I always use the bottom terminal for hot, the top terminal for the switched wire).  The black wire is then connected to the other terminal to complete the circuit. Run your power feed cable in to the switch outlet box first, then run a cable from the switch box up to your light outlet box. At the switch box, splice the incoming neutral or white wire to the white wire going to the light box. Connect the black live wire from the power cable in to one of the terminals on the single-pole switch (again, it doesn’t matter if you use the top or the bottom terminal of the switch, but I prefer to use the bottom terminal for the hot wire), and then connect the black wire from the cable going to the light fixture to the other terminal of the switch. At the light fixture, the white wire connects to the fixture neutral (white) wires or neutral terminal, and the black wire connects to the fixture live(black) wires, or hot terminal (terminals are found on basic fixtures such as keyless lampholders).  If you have more than one fixture to be controlled by the switch, then you would now run cable from this light fixture to other lights that you would like controlled by the switch. This entry was posted in Indoor Wiring and tagged box, cable, diy home electrical, DIY wiring, do-it-yourself wiring, home electrical, home electrical wiring, home electrical wiring diagram, home wiring, house wiring, household wiring diagram, how to wire a light switch, light switch, light switch wiring, outlet, single pole, switch, switch leg drop, wire a light switch, wiring, wiring a light switch, wiring a switch, wiring diagram.
You would have to check with the educational requirements for you particular location, but usually training for an Electrician is by an Apprenticeship program. I want to finish my basement and have some knowledge of electricity and want to put a switch in line with the 4 light fixtures that are pull strings, how?
We were upgrading our storage lighting from two lights, one on switch,one pullstring to two on switch and five on pullstrings. I installed a ceiling light fixture and when I turned the power back on it was working yet the wall switch wouldn’t turn it off that I had installed. I have a light switch in the bathroom that has three black wires hooked into a single pole switch. I have 2 new outside lights and i am trying to wire them up to an exiting outside light switch, which already has 2 brown wires in. I want to thank you so much for the detailed awesome info that you give for wiring a light switch. I’m trying to add(2) fluorescent light fixtures from a switch that currently operates (10) light, But the switch has a 3-wire cable to a j-box that has a light fixture attached.
I have a switch box which controls an outlet across the room, I would like to run from the out et a line to the outdoor light, between the outdoor light and the outlet I would like to add another switch to control the outdoor light.
I have 3 recepticals on the same wire and I want to add a light switch the the middle receptical.
If I only have a black and white wire in my light switch receptical can I still install a motion sensitive device without a ground wire? Presently I have 2 lights on a switch, and I want to add an outlet so that the outlet is live, even when the switch is off. I have a 3 way switch for my outside house lights (1 in garage 1 in house) I want to make on a timer switch (garage) is this possible? I have recently installed a bathroom vanity light in a circular hole that was previously covered. I removed an old, deteriorated light switch and replaced with a new switch, and no matter how I wire it, nothing happens. I have a pool light switch that has white and black wires i got new light switch for new LED light and switch instructions say white to white, red to red, black to black.
I’ve changed the switch but when I flick the fuse on one light works normally and the other light stays on permanently and can’t be turned off by the switch how do I fix this problem? My new porcelain fixture has a connection for a hot and a neutral wire, leaving one white wire unconnected. When the electrical source originates at a light fixture and it's controlled from a remote location, a switch loop is used. A rheostat, or dimmer, makes it possible to vary the current flowing to a light fixture thereby varying the intensity of the light.


This diagram illustrates the wiring for a split receptacle with the top half controlled by SW1 and the bottom half always hot.
In this updated diagram 3-conductor cable runs between the receptacle and switch, and the red cable wire is used to carry the hot source to the bottom terminal on the switch. Here again, the connecting tab between the receptacle terminals is broken off and the neutral tab remains intact. At the receptacle the black cable wire from SW1 is connected to one of the hot terminals and the red wire is spliced to the white wire on the 2-conductor cable running to SW2. In this updated diagram 3-wire cable runs between the receptacle and SW2 to allow for splicing the neutral source through to the second switch box. Here two 3 way switches control a wall receptacle that may be used to control a lamp from two entrances to a room.
Source 1 comes in at the light fixture and a 3-wire cable is run from there to the switch half on the device. Source 2 comes in at the combo device where the hot and neutral wires are connected to their corresponding terminals on the receptacle half of the device. In this diagram the tab between the hot terminals is broken off and a short, jumper wire of the same gauge is run from the output side of the switch to the hot terminal on the receptacle. Single-pole switches will work to turn the lights on and off, even when the wires are connected in reverse.
To get the wires right, connect the source to the bottom terminal on the switch and the lights to the top terminal.
Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. If all you have is one wire entering the switch, then the power for the switch might come from the light, and you just have a switched hot. Unfortunately, if this is the case, then you don't have a neutral available at this switch which is necessary for most of these automation switches. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring lighting switch or ask your own question. Attach the red and white of the wire leading to the next switch to the screws at the top of the switch.
We got the lights installed and wired but had a heckuva time figuring out the connections for the switch. I found that the hallway light just outside of the bathroom is connected through this switch. If power comes into the switches first then the Black wire feed stays in the box and connects to each switch.
The light in the bathroom is now on and also the socket but I had to disconnect the wires from the light switch so the trip would stay on!!! Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures controlled by one switch, and a split receptacle controlled by two switches. The circuit pictured here is wired with 2-conductor cable running from the light to the switch location.
Because the electrical code as of the 2012 NEC update requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes, a 3-wire cable runs between the light and switch.
The dimmer switch will have stranded wires that must be sliced to the solid cable wiring with a pigtail. The receptacle is split by breaking the connecting tab between the two, brass colored terminals.
The hot source is spliced to a pigtail that connect to the bottom, always-hot, half on the receptacle and to the white cable wire which continues on to the bottom terminal on SW1. The neutral from the source is passed through to the switch box using the white wire and in this diagram the white wire is capped with a wire nut.
With this arrangement two lamps can be plugged into the same receptacle and each can be controlled separately from two different locations.
The source is at SW1 and 3-conductor cable runs from there to the receptacle, 2-conductor cable runs from the receptacle to SW2.
Here the white is not used for hot but instead the extra, red wire serves that purpose for the second switch. Like the split receptacles above these devices makes use of a removable connector between the two, hot terminals to divide the device when needed.
In this arrangement the connecting tab between the hot terminals on the device is broken off to separate the two.
The hot from the source is spliced to the black wire and to the input side of the switch at the other end. This may be a convenient arrangement if you want to use the device to control a load plugged into the receptacle. The hot source wire is connected to the input side of the switch and the source neutral wire is connected to the neutral terminal on the receptacle. If the wiring is right, you can read the words ON and OFF printed correctly on the toggle when you flip the switch.
A good way to remember this is to think of the direction of the toggle arm pointing to the direction of current flow. Multi-gang switch boxes can have 2 or more circuits passing through them, and it sounds like yours does. If there are other switches in this box it might be possible to re-route the power for this light, but I'd need to know more about where the power is coming from, what else is there, and how the light is connected in the ceiling box to help. But I saw a mention of this on another question and now again and I feel I need to elaborate. However, he seems to be implying that one should therefore NOT mark white wires serving as hot, so as to -what?- prevent a false feeling of security around unmarked ones? However in this case, when there are only two conductors in the box, both going to the switch, and the switch is working to turn the light on and off, they must both be hot (or both neutral, if someone really got things messed up elsewhere).


The red and white wire of the 3-wire going to the next switch should be attached to the light colored screws. We had a total of five wires in the box: one for run of new lights, one for single new light, one from switch, one from power feed, one out to bathroom.
When I turned the power back on the ceiling fixture went on but the switch wouldn’t turn it off.
The white joins together with the wire to each light feed and the black from each light return joins to the corresponding switch remaing screw. It also had a place for another connection (basically 4 connection screws with one black and two white connections and one empty). I connected the black and red wires from the box to the black wire from the fixture and the white wires together. The white cable wire in this switch loop is wrapped with black tape and connected to the bottom terminal on SW1 and the hot source at the light.
The red and black are used for hot and the white neutral wire at the switch box allows for powering a remote controlled switch.
The source hot wire is connected to the bottom terminal on the switch and the top terminal is connected to the black cable wire. The hot and neutral terminals on each fixture are spliced with a pigtail to the circuit wires which then continue on to the next light. A device like this should only be used with an incandescent light fixture and not with a ceiling fan or other motor. The other wire from the dimmer is spliced to the black cable wire which runs on to the hot terminal on the light. The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the split receptacle and runs to the top terminal on SW1.
This represents a change in the NEC code that requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes. The source hot wire is spliced to the bottom terminal on SW1 and to the red cable running to the receptacle. The black wire is connected to the second hot terminal on the receptacle and to the top terminal on SW2 at the other end. When intact and wired to one hot source wire, the combo device can be used to turn a light off and on, while the receptacle will be constantly hot. The source is at the device and the hot is connected directly to one of the hot terminals, it doesn't matter which one. But if the wiring is wrong, when you flip the switch up to turn on the lights, it will read OFF and the word will be printed upside down. The safest approach to building wiring is to recognize, “There is no color coding”, and so any wire regardless of its color can have any electrical potential. Go ahead and mark the hot white wires you DO find (there shouldn't be too many) and eventually all of them WILL be correct. Initial reviews of the product have been highly positive, and the unit has made headway in both the outdoor and emergency preparedness vertical markets. I ran a new piece of Romex from new fan to switch area, installed double gang box, have second switch, but can’t seem to get right combination to get both devices working.
The black wire is connected to the top terminal on SW1 and the hot terminal on the light fixture. The neutral wire from the source is spliced to the white cable wire and continues on to the light.
The source neutral wire is spliced to the white cable wire which continues on to the neutral terminal on the light.
The circuit neutral wire is connected to one of the neutral terminals on the receptacle, it doesn't run to the switch.
If you are running a new circuit check the electrical code to understand this and any other updates to the required procedure.
The top terminal is connected to the black cable wire, and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire which continues on to one of the neutral terminals on the receptacle, it doesn't matter which, only one connection is needed with the neutral wire.
It's not connected to the other neutral wires that fit in the multiple light switch housing. The same logic in healthcare is called, “Universal Precautions”, where you treat everyone as if they have every viral or bacterial infection there is. At the light, the white wire connects to the neutral terminal and the black wire connects to the hot.
The top terminal is connected to the black cable wire running to the hot terminal on the receptacle and the source neutral is spliced with the white cable wire which runs on to the neutral on the receptacle.
The source neutral wire is spliced to the neutral on the receptacle half of the combo device and to the white cable wire. There is a dome light in the bathroom that is controlled from a wall switch but I was not able to see if there where anymore wires leading to the circular hole that may act as a switch wire. What does it mean when the neutral wire is connected to the light switch itself and not bundled with the other neutral wires? It was the perfect answer (method 1, step 3) and detailed EXACTLY how to connect the switch wires to the power and light wires.
I am getting roughly 120-123 volts on each black but nothing through the neutral when the lights are switched to on.



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