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Sinner had the good sense to throw in a bivvy; I placed my faith in a summer down bag and the stability of desert weather.
We hiked 11 miles into the canyon, past the village and its barking rez dogs, past nappy-looking ponies somnolent in clod pastures, and found our way to the blue-green waterfalls. Last spring, I went back to Havasupai for the first time since 2001, this time with my buddy Dave Cichan, a downhill mountain biker who like all Canadians hides his sick athletic skills behind a veneer of niceness and civility. Your post is a great reminder to everyone of how real the danger of flash flooding can be in the desert southwest. Unfortunately, the flood of August 17th destroyed parts of the trail leading to the falls as well as caused heavy damage to the campground.
The glassy aquamarine waters turned a churning brown and we were forced to move back from the stream bed. The Middle Years: Lisa Hoffner avoids an elephant stampede in Kenya's Masai Mara National Reserve. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. No injuries were reported, but nearly 300 visitors got heli-evacuated from the narrow tributary of the Grand Canyon.
Nothing quite prepares you for the sound of rushing water in the desert, especially in there, where it runs clear as glass.

These torrents are some of the most acclaimed in the world and no matter what you hear, it’s not hype—the Caribbean water, the orange-sherbert rock, the cold spray on a hot day…photos make you say wow, but being there takes away words. Dave’s technically a dual citizen and thus can operate his new mountain bike shop in Sedona without fear of INS raids. I run an adventure tour company that leads backpacking trip to Havasupai (see the blurb on Havasupai in the September 2008 issue of ADVENTURE pg 46) and August is a tricky month down there. As a result, the Havasupai Tribe announced on September 3rd that tourist operations are closed until Summer 2009.
My compadre Sinuhe Xavier and I slept at the trailhead on the rim of the chasm and, seeing nothing but blue skies in all directions, packed minimally. My wet down was worthless in the 40-degree night and somehow I cadged Sinner’s bivvy from him. Despite launching a business and being a relative newlywed, Dave still gets after it—we couldn’t get a camping permit and decided to go down and back in the same day, which ended up covering 30-plus miles. The tourist operations are the main source of income for the tribe and a disaster relief fund has been set up for them to help cope until tourist operations are restored. This reminds me of the college trips to southern Utah and Zion’s breath in the shade of the late march afternoons. Even though there were seven of us and only six of them, they outweighed us by more than 72,000 pounds!

That is until the clouds become more than a passing glance and the world as you know it turns to splatters of refreshing rain and all of the beautiful rock gets sopped to the toe and the rivers bellow noises from the innards until finally…it all stops.
In the 35 feet (11 meters) between us, we could see the coarse texture of their one-inch (2.5-centimeter) thick, gray, wrinkled hides and their hardened toenails. We woke late and when we did the creek had turned brown and sludgy like a frost-burned frappuccino. On my long day hike with Dave, I didn’t doing anything stupid, at least not the Dave pointed out. Marmot "Original" DriClime WindshirtTopping the charts year after year, the "Original" is highly regarded for its cozy, wind-blocking warmth.
Sinuhe at least had his bivvy, I only had my down bag and a whimsically thin plastic poncho borrowed from another camper.
The creek is running muddy right now and the campsites are empty or on their way to it, but by this weekend the water should running clear, magically, in that otherworldy green and blue. There was no shelter, were no overhangs, and I lay there with a torrent of water running down my neck, watching the amazing lightning display and listening to Sinner describe the book he was reading, The Secret Knowledge of Water, which documents the shaping force of cataclysmic floods on the Southwest desert.

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Comments to “National geographic adventure of life suitcase”

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