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With severe winter weather at hand, many reptile owners worry about what to do in a power outage. This guide covers all common pet species: bearded dragons, ball pythons, corn snakes, tortoises, leopard geckos, crested geckos, and the like. The Reptile Report - Did you catch this article from The Reptile Times by LLL Reptile? Dendroboard - A dart frog keeper’s worst nightmare, the combination of a heat wave and power outage, has become more prevalent this week.
Power has been restored in Chassell after some UPPCO customers were left in the dark last night when a car accident knocked out an electric pole. Parents at Barming Primary School near Maidstone in Kent were left fuming when told that their Christmas nativity plays would not go ahead.
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BEIRUT A car bomb in a district south of Damascus killed at least six people and possibly many more on Monday, according to Islamic State militants who claimed responsibility for the attack. BrunchNews connects you to the latest and trending news from the best news websites around the world. Thankfully, a few easy preparations can make the process less stressful for owners and animals alike. Those that keep temperature-sensitive species, lose power multiple times a winter, or maintain reptiles in a detached building should invest in a backup power source like a generator. Ectotherms do not shiver to warm themselves, so a “shivering” lizard is probably suffering a calcium crash. Undigested food in the gut when the temperatures drop is a leading cause of illness and even death in reptiles. Clean and fill all bowls, and make sure you have enough bottled water set aside to keep them all full for several days. Putting some extra substrate in helps trap heat and keeps the enclosure at temperature longer after the lights go out.
If any animals are particularly temperature sensitive, ill, or it is below freezing outside, assemble a candle space heater.


Power companies request all electric devices be unplugged except for a single lightbulb during an outage. Reptiles commonly go 2-3 days with no heat or lights every time they’re shipped, transported, or taken to a show.
Make sure the water is still full, the bedding has not gotten wet, and the animal seems fine, as quickly as possible.
If it’s getting really cold, removing the reptile from its tank for a few minutes and handle it in front of the fireplace.
Scott Wesley has written an interesting short piece on the history of the reptile internet. UPPCO says a car that crashed into the pole caused a power outage in the Chassell and Pelkie areas that left just under 600 customers without power.
As long as the animal responds to touch, lethargy or sleepiness is usually normal brumation and no cause for concern. Reptiles should never come in direct contact with heat packs, as they can be badly burned or even killed. This doesn’t do any good, and if the water spills and saturates the bedding in a rapidly cooling setting, it can actually raise the chance of a respiratory infection. Do not offer food within 24 hours of an expected power loss for lizards and chelonians, 48 hours or more for snakes. Freezes can burst pipes, power stations can go dark, and floods can pollute the water supply. Animals can also thermoregulate better if they can fully burrow in instead of remaining exposed. For systems with a thermostat, raise the temperature 1-3 degrees and remove any programmed night drop. This helps prevent overloading the grid when power is restored and reduces the risk of a rebound outage. This won’t cause any problems at all, while many knee-jerk solutions to try to prevent it will.
Remember that nearly every reptile out there has been off heat for a couple days at least once in its life.


Checking more often will just cool the tank faster and make the environment more stressful. Listen careful for wheezes, clicks, and popping sounds, and watch for any sign of mucus or slime around the mouth and nostrils. Their bodies just slow down in the cold, and they simply stop eating, drink less, move less, and sleep more until it warms up again. Unless the animal does not respond to any stimulus, loses the ability to climb or cling, or seems “drunk” and disoriented in its movement, don’t worry.
Even bearded dragons should never have a hot spot of more than 105 F, and wood fires burn far hotter than that. For animals that are usually kept on paper towel, stone, or carpet, add bunched up towel or newspaper, an old T-shirt, cotton rags, or micro-fleece – anything they can burrow under but not get tangled in. As long as the doors are kept shut, a small space will hold heat a lot longer than a large one. The surge of power being restored also occasionally causes bulbs to explode, especially any type with a ballast. If the heat from a few minutes of scale on skin contact is enough to perk the animal back up, everything is just fine. Let the reptile until its activity level increases, but make sure the water does not become chilled, and to dry it completely before returning it to its enclosure. If it is too warm for people to tolerate, scoot back a few feet because it’s too warm for reptiles too. Rapid, extreme changes in temperature can cause a whole new set of problems, even if the new temperature is usually optimal. 40 hour heat packs (the most common reptile shipping pack) reach 135 F, and even 72 hour heat packs reach 112 F. That much heat can crack the tank, send the animal into heat distress, or in extreme cases cause burns.



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