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In recent years, we've seen great advances in monolithic semiconductor detectors built for receive (RSSI Detectors) and transmit power detection. Being able to accurately measure RF circuitry down into the milliwatt range is amazingly useful for those of us who "homebrew" radio gear, or who operate QRPp (output power in the sub-watt range).
What I describe here is an accurate 40 dB (power factor of 10000) tap attenuator, usable with 50-ohm matched circuits, which will allow you to extend the measurement range of the newer RF power detector chips to around 100-350 watts (depending on the chip's upper measurement limit). The tap attenuator differs from an inline attenuator in a couple of ways: Inline attenuators must absorb large amounts of power.
If you want to learn more about the operation and limits of the 40 dB tap attenuator, from a theoretical and practical point-of-view, I've written a white paper relating my experiences with SPICE simulations and component calculations, and you can see that -here-. For some reason known only to my deviant Id, I like to build dummy loads and attenuators into copper pipes, and radios into Altoids tins.

I think pictures say a thousand words, so we'll show the assembly step-by-step, and hope it makes sense. To make room for the internal assemblies, we need to cut down the end caps, using a pipe cutter. Then we insert the end caps in both sides of the coupler (it should be a slip fit), and carefully mark, punch, and drill a small pilot hole (one on each end).
We're going to fabricate two small pc boards for mounting the resistors, and we'll use brute-force methods.
Now (back to the first side), use whatever suitable cutting tool you have to cut the two PCB's on the OUTER circles. Now, slip the smaller hole of the resistor assembly over the center-pin of the BNC on the transmitter end (the end with no ground lug).

Find the end cap with the resistor assmbly, and install the trimmer cap by soldering one leg to the resistor PCB. Without hooking up the wire, fit the resistor assembly into the shield (pipe coupling), and screw it in place.

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