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Batoning is a survival and bushcraft technique whereby a sturdy knife is lodged in a piece of wood then struck repeatedly by a baton-like object, a heavy piece of wood for instance, in order to split the wood. Among other purposes, batoning is often used to split logs and other wood to create kindling, to create access to the dry inner portion of a wet log for generating dry tinder, and to produce shingles, slats, or boards. In many instances, batoning makes the process of splitting wood far easier than it’s alternative, chopping wood. Under certain conditions, such as in the case of batoning wet logs, batoning can be somewhat difficult. Batoning can be done with nearly any fixed blade knife, so long as the blade is strong enough to be able to stand repeated batoning. Rigid knife handles will very often create uncomfortable vibrations when struck with a baton, but handles that are completely encased in a synthetic material (like rubber), will normally absorb the shocks reasonably well. When batoning, there are many ways to mitigate damage and potential breakage to your knife. Place the knife straight down, and not at an angle, when getting ready to baton (this is very important to mitigate damage or breakage to the knife). Hit the center of the knife with the baton until the knife is properly lodged in the wood, then proceed to the next step. Baton on the blade end of the knife, but do not hit the very tip of the blade when batoning, as the tip of the knife is usually relatively weak and susceptible to breakage.
Other than using proper batoning technique, the following is a list of adjustments you can make to have an easier time batoning.
If possible, baton around and not through knots in the wood, as knots create sometimes extreme resistance and can, in certain situations, damage the edge of the knife. If the log already has a crack, take advantage of it, as mother nature has already done most of the work for you.
Move the piece of wood you are trying to baton to rest on the hardest surface you can find. If you simply cannot baton through a particular piece of wood, try batoning a smaller one (in terms of it’s diameter or radus), as batoning becomes easier with thinner pieces of wood. Subscribe to More Than Just SurvivingNo fancy free e-book or shiny product bribe incentive offered here!
Funny you mention that as I spent the past week splitting wood with a maul & steel wedges.
In my experience, splitting wood with metal wedges and hammers is easier if you cut an X or two into one end of the log. Thats an excellent insight, admittedly I don’t have much experience with axes and hatchets- I am far more comfortable with machetes and choppers but I can definitely see the advantages of using a wedge for splitting wood- a (relatively) thin edge will never be able to compete with a thick slab of steel designed purely to pry apart fibrous material.
My biggest concern with axes has always been the fear of it wedging itself into my shins should I undershot my swing- I understand that this is purely due to my lack of experience though.

According to my experience I consider the risk of complete fracturing a blade much less than separating of flake shaped particles along the edge of too thin a blade.
I would suggest 15DPS as a multipurpose edge angle, if you are worried you can always add a secondary convex bevel to the edge which will reinforce it significantly.
As a woodcarver, I often use the technique to accurately split away smaller pieces of wood from a small seasoned block of suitable timber, to make pendants etc. In the UK, yew trees (Taxus baccata) are softwoods, but seasoned yew timber is tough stuff and a fencepost made from it is reputed to outlast an iron post in the ground outdoors. Good to know Alistair, I agree that the joker who came up with the name needs a proper slap around the face!
Wish I had read this article before damaging my machete with a piece of rock (while trying to baton, of course). More Than Just Surviving is a survival blog that concentrates on wilderness survival, preparedness, and gear. Be sure to pay close attention to the last two sections (the one on proper batoning technique, and the one on troubleshooting the difficulties of batoning), as these two sections will help you most out in the field. Batoning requires less effort, takes less time, and results in a much cleaner cut than chopping. Rocks, bricks, and other extremely hard objects will work, but they will severely damage the spine of the knife you are using to baton. Knives with full tangs (where the metal from the knife extends past the blade and through the entire handle) are stronger and because of that will work better for batoning, as they are less likely to be damaged or break. The metal of the knife should protrude from the wood far enough so that you can hit, not the tip, but a part of the spine that is strong enough to take the batoning.
Do not hit the handle as hard as you would hit the blade end of the knife, as the force may cause the knife to break or be damaged, but feel free to make light hits to the handle end when you feel it is appropriate. Adjust expectations accordingly in terms of expansion of energy, and if it doesn’t matter whether you have hardwood or softwood, switch to batoning a softwood instead.
If you like our blog and would like to get emailed whenever we publish a new post, fill in the form below and hit "Subscribe"! I will do a follow up article about other techniques including wedges as they are crazy useful. Make the cuts a couple inches deep, and as long as you aren’t on a knot or twisted grain, the wood will come apart very easily. The durability of the edge varies based on steel choice (level of ductility) and grind (a carbon steel scandi is unlikely to chip, regardless of how thin the stock is).
Run by a two-person husband and wife team, Thomas & Elise Xavier, this blog's mission is to offer a down to earth resource for both survivalists and preppers alike.

Batoning also requires much less experience to master than chopping, as aiming while chopping may be difficult to do at first. Thus, some caution must be taken when batoning. To reduce difficulties and knife breakage, proper batoning technique should be used (see the section below on proper batoning technique). Batoning with the wrong baton (like a rock or brick for instance) will obviously also cause damage to the knife, which is why wood should really be the only thing used as a baton when batoning. The size of the ideal batoning knife depends on the width of the piece of wood you are attempting to go through.
If the knife you intend to use does not have a synthetic material handle, to reduce the felt vibrations, handles can be covered with synthetic material like bicycle inner tube. If one carves a couple of decent size wedges before beginning to baton, it can allow one to get through larger pieces of wood with a small knife. Batoning is an extremely handy technique to know when you do not have a chopper lying around, as may be the case if you’ve forgotten to take a chopper camping, for instance. If proper batoning technique is used, however, this can all be avoided, or at least mitigated dramatically.
The edge of the blade of the batoning knife should be approximately 2-3 inches longer than the diameter of the wood you are trying to baton. Once the knife is batoned down to it’s depth, a wedge can be batoned in to increase the width of the split started by the knife and free up the knife.
The goal is to make a batoning tool with a wider hitting surface, and a thinner handle surface. That being said, if you’re looking for a single versatile batoning knife to use, you may want to stick to a longer blade. The use of another wedge or two can complete the job of splitting larger pieces after one has used the knife to begin the split. It is obviously possible to baton smaller pieces of wood with a longer blade, although it might be a bit tricky, but you will not be able to baton thicker pieces of wood with a shorter blade. This way, the knife doesn’t remain stuck and have to be pulled and pried to get it loose again.

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