What is an aperiodic enclosure,earths magnetic resonance frequency quartz,comed power outage report aurora il 8000,emergency response videos youtube queen - Step 3

On going experience with FR125 has me liking each driver in 4.5 litre (aperiodic) up to 7 litre sealed or aperiodic. What Terry said about using 2, bipole or if frount firing as close as possible arrayed vertically. The purpose of an aperiodic design is to allow a smaller enclosure size than would normally be possible in a sealed box. Mass loading is a great way to kill resonance, but so is structural rigidity and decoupling by insulating layers. You can laminate a strip of steel to the back of the floor boards using 2-part automotive epoxy or urethane body panel adhesive.
Then I did the passenger side as well, new deadening, another 1.5lbs of modeling clay, rubber mat, etc.
Thanks you guys helped alot and gave me some ideas on to make sure my mids are decoupled from my doors as well.

Generally, about 60% of the cabinet volume should be filled with damping material, while being careful to leave an open path from driver to the vent. I was reading over on DIYMA that you have to use one of these tools to find the impedence curve and tune by adding or removing from the membrane until your curve is at its flattest.
Scott Buwalda recommended a two-part epoxy resin on the floor with lead added in to substantially increase mass. I also added 1.5lbs of non-hardening modeling clay inside the midbass cavity - in the nooks and crannies, along the baffle inside seams, etc. I'm going to tune by ear for now until I have the cash to order myself a WT3 then I'll go back and make adjustments from there.
It seems like a pretty good idea only having to use a tiny enclosure but getting similar response to a large sealed box. I've found that anchoring door panels, etc with screws directly from the speaker holes through the steel of the door itself (sandwiching the door panel) will usually make a rigid enough connection.

If I need more rigidity I will add steel or make MDF baffles to mount the speakers into and fiberglass these to the panels.
Between rigidity and decoupling through sound deadener, most rattles and harmonics can be killed pretty easily at moderate power levels.
Other rattles and harmonics are usually traced down to door mechanisms, window regulators or loose interior trim.

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