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Diy garage door cable repair,wooden wedding favour ideas,china yantai lida woodworking machinery co. ltd - For Begninners

22.03.2016 admin
Garage door cable drums are found on the ends of the torsion shaft and look like metal wheels or hubs. Torque Force 400-96 cable drums are four inches in diameter and are most commonly used for residential garage doors up to eight feet high. Make your door extremely quiet by upgrading to Torque Force 400-144 garage door cable drums. Their wider grooves hold thicker cables and allow for more separation between the cables. If you have any questions about choosing the right garage door cable drum, or you need help understanding the proper way to replace your drums, call us at 1-866-813-7899.
The purpose of this tutorial is to show how professional garage door installers and service technicians level smaller and lighter overhead-type sectional commercial and industrial, as well as residential, garage doors.
We have also made a video to help you balance your garage door to provide you a more audio-visual option for learning how to level your garage door. The most common cause of overhead-type doors being out of level is frayed cables that grow in length as they fray.
On this door the gap is on the left side, but the door is lower on the right side, so the first adjustment to make is on the right side.
Climb the ladder and go up to the cable drum on the side of the garage that is lower and on the floor. Contact the following companies for residential and industrial garage doors, openers and repairs in your local area.
Make sure that both cables are replaced and if the springs have never been replaced have them replaced at the same time. There should also be a manual release hanging from the chaindrive that decouples the door from the drive train.
If you haven't got the arm that attaches the door to the drive chain you will never open that door.
I was planning on getting one of those newer screw type ones 2 summers from now, i'll see how much the cables will run me first.. You may already know all that, if thats the case I apologize, it was hard to tell from your OP. I had the spring break on me, there was NO way in hell i could have gotten that reinstalled.
Just wondering those torsion springs above the doors, if not broken or having any issues with it, would replacing it due to solely on age make any sense. 2 summers from now i did have plans on re-doing the whole garage, well this summer was going to be organize and next summer will be new door, screw type opener and etc. Those springs that help you open the door store an incredible amount of energy when the door's down, and working on that system by yourself, with only a little bit of knowledge, could be incredibly dangerous. I remember years ago, when my dad was at work one night, and I was sitting (watching tv, whatever) in the living room, when suddenly I heard a snap-sproing-WHAM!!! So you're saying that it's like putting the mashed potatoes on top of the cake BEFORE you do the dishes?
The attached pic is not of the door with the problem, I don't want to mess with it any more than I have to. I can't remeber fore sure, but I'd assum there was a way to lock the spring so you can mess with the cable. It takes so little time to re-tension the spring and the potential of injury too great to leave the springs wound before attempting this repair. Manually operating doors doesn't necessary kill them, but people do have a tendency to grab them, give them a push and let them go. The following instructions for replacing garage door springs are for do-it-yourself homeowners and for maintenance repair men who service their smaller commercial or industrial sectional overhead doors.
If your garage spring assembly is different from this, parts of these instructions may be helpful, but other parts may give dangerous, inaccurate directions which could cost you a lot of time and money should you attempt to replace the springs using standard instructions. For example, low headroom garage doors often have cable drums on the outside of the end plate and the torsion springs usually wind down rather than up. On our EZ-Set Torsion Springs page you will find several options for replacing these springs.
If one of your door springs just broke and you are looking for instructions to decide if you can change the spring or springs safely and correctly, this page should help. For a scholarly introduction to torsion springs and for more information on how to install them I recommend you visit Richard Kinch's page, "How I Replaced Deadly Garage Door Torsion Springs and Lived to Tell the Tale." Richard is a brilliant engineer who has provided a wealth of technical information on fixing torsion springs along with valuable advice regarding some of the schemes unscrupulous garage door companies use to rip people off. If you have decided to change your springs and you are ready to buy new ones, we recommend you gather five pieces of information: your torsion spring dimensions, garage door weight, garage door model and size, track radius, and the cable drum number or circumference on the flat portion. 2.4 The same is true of Older Overhead, BarCol and Raynor torsion springs that have winding cones with inconsistent hole sizes.
4.2 Lay the new springs on the garage floor or work bench and measure the lengths, inside diameters, and 20 coils to determine the wire sizes. 5.1 With the cables still tight on the drums, mark the drums and torsion shaft at each end with a file or a marking pen. 6.3 To safely replace torsion springs, use winding bars that are at least 18" long and which properly fit the winding cone. 6.5 A typical problem with DIYers replacing their torsion springs is that the winding bars often are not inserted completely into the winding cones. 6.6 Taping the ends of both winding bars as pictured will let you clearly see just how far your bars are penetrating the holes in the winding cones as you unwind the old springs and rewind the new ones. 6.10 If the garage door comes off the floor when you pull down on the bar, and if the cone still won't loosen, tap the bar next to the cone with a hammer to force the cone beyond the swollen portion of shaft. 6.11 When the cone is free from the shaft, lower the bar and let it rest upon the top of the garage door. 7.1 Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the center stationary torsion cones to the spring bracket. 7.2 If the spring bracket is slotted, vise grip the bracket to secure the shaft in the bracket.
7.3 Slide both torsion springs out above the top of the garage door toward the cable drums. 7.6 Loosen the setscrews on the cable drum above the left end of the garage door until the drum turns freely.
7.8 If the bearing has worn ridges into the shaft or if the setscrews have left raised metal, file the shaft. 8.3 Go the other side of the garage door and pull the shaft out of the headplate if it has not already slid out.
8.16 Check to make sure the end of the torsion spring points up when the end is facing you.
9.5 A frequent problem for do-it-yourselfers and inexperienced garage door repairmen is getting the end of the cable to properly seat in the slot of the cable drum. 9.6 Bending the cable will help you avoid problems with the tip at the end of the cable catching on the end bearing plate and causing the cable to come off and the garage door to jam, cock, or fall. 9.7 After inserting the cable in the drum, pull down on the drum to tighten the cable around the outer raised groove of the drum. 9.13 If you have a spring anchor bracket with a fixed steel bearing, check for wear at the point where the shaft and bearing race meet. 9.16 If you cannot get the stationary cones to finger-tighten against the center bracket, we recommend installing washers between the winding cone that houses the bearing and the spring bracket. 10.1 It is now time to wind the new springs, but before doing so, I recommend marking the shaft just beyond the winding cone.
10.2 Tape your winding bars if you have not done so already, not only to assure that you are inserting the bars completely into the cones as you wind the torsion springs, but more importantly to assure that the bar does not slip out of the cone when you stretch the springs at the end.
10.5 If the spring comes loose from the cone at about 6 turns, you are probably winding the spring backward because the springs are on the wrong sides. 10.8 After the cone reaches the mark, continue pulling the bar off the garage door and back toward the middle of the door with your left hand. 10.13 Slowly pull down on the winding bar until the garage door rises 3" and the roller hits the vise grip on the track. 11.2b If the springs you installed are too strong, and if you wind the springs the correct number of turns, the door will not stay down nor half way. 11.2c If the springs you installed are too weak, and you wind the springs the correct number of turns, the door will be heavy at the floor, and it will not stay open half way, but it will stay open if raised completely. If you have found this tutorial helpful please feel free to link your blog, message board or other type of web page to this one. Cable drums help the garage door remain balanced and level as cables wrap around the drums. With a weight capacity of 375 pounds, they can be used on heavier garage doors up to 12 feet high.
This prevents any rubbing, as well as the noise that is commonly heard during the last two feet of opening. There you will find many How To videos that will guide you step by step through your next DIY garage door project. These doors usually have a continuous hollow shaft running all the way across the top of the door.
For optimal results, make sure that you measure the distance from the garage floor to the garage door as close to the track and bottom bracket as possible. Doors also rise on one side when the cable is not properly seated on the cable drum on the opposite side. In the next series of steps you will move your ladder to the other side and climb up to the left cable drum. Vise grip the shaft so that the end of the vise grip is firm against the top of the garage door. If the drum does not turn from loosening one of the setscrews, tighten the first scetscrew half way and loosen the other setscrew following the same procedure as with the first setscrew. Very slowly loosen one setscrew again and follow the same procedure again in steps six through nine above.

Once the mark on the cable drum lines up with the new mark on the shaft, tighten the setscrew enough to keep the marks together. I got in the garage fine but with my mother came in she opened it with the remote and i guess destoryed the cable on the right side. If so you need to call a repair man because that type door, with the springs over the door opening is very dangerous to work on without the proper tools and know how.
THe spring is the weight balance, it acts as a spring tensioner, the more spring load you put in the more counterweight it puts on the thing. Either you have springs above the door opening or along side of the door tracks on the ceiling. If they go up fast like that and overshoot their normal stopping point, the cable will go slack and pop off the drum, which is probably what happened to yours. These directions are designed for torsion springs mounted to both sides of an anchor bracket above the middle of the garage door as pictured above. They normally have left wind springs mounted on the left side of the spring anchor bracket and right wind springs mounted on the right side of the bracket. A special Crawford Torsion Spring Conversion page has been provided to use in conjunction with this page. In spite of my high mechanical aptitude, even after 18 years in the trade I lost the end of my left index finger. The directions below hopefully will help guide you in safely replacing your springs, but there are no guarantees. Due to dangerous steps below that can result in bodily injury, we recommend that you carefully study all the instructions below before beginning your work.
Some older openers are hardwired and you will need to remove a fuse or flip the circuit breaker. Opening a door, and failure to keep it securely open, can damage the door or cause serious injury. If at least one of the springs is still wound, don't touch the cable drums and don't grab the shaft.
Once you loosen a setscrew, keep at least one bar in the cone AT ALL TIMES until the spring is fully unwound.
If you have removed the setscrews and the spring still will not unwind, pull down on the bar, but be prepared for the cone to loosen at any moment. With one bar in each hand, raise the end of the second bar enough to pull the first bar out of the cone. If your shaft is distorted inside the cone, you may need to tap the bar with a hammer as you unwind the spring.
This will keep the shaft from possibly falling out and causing injury or damaging the garage door or shaft. If you are thinking of reusing your cones, read our Torsion Spring Cone Replacement tutorial.
My worst ladder accident occurred when I stepped off my two-foot ladder onto a spring and sprained my ankle.
On the left side next to the winding cone the end of the spring wire should be pointing up if it is facing you.
This is a left wind spring, normally painted black, above the right side of the garage door and mounted to the right side of the spring anchor bracket. It should not turn if you have finger-tightened the setscrews properly into the original grooves. If you have a slotted center bracket, remove the vise grip and lube the shaft where it turns inside the bushing. Double-check to make sure you have the right wound spring on the left side and the left wind spring on the right side.
Finger-tighten the nuts until the stationary cones are flush against the center bearing plate. This is a common problem with torsion springs on older Windsor garage doors because their steel bearings are often wider and they extend beyond the stationary cone.
This is a final step taken to assure that you have installed the springs on the correct sides of the center bracket. With your left hand, lift the bar just off the top of the door and pull it toward the center of the garage door. Continue holding the bar off the garage door and pulling back toward the center of the door.
The winding cone should be tight enough so that when you pull down on the bar, the garage door should begin to lift.
If you have installed the wrong springs, or if you have over-wound the springs, this will prevent the garage door from flying up and knocking you off your ladder after winding the second torsion spring. CAUTION: Before removing the bars from the cones after securing the winding cone, you must run an important test of the door.
If tension is added to the torsion springs to lighten the garage door and to get it stay open half way, the door will be harder to close; openers often damage the new steel garage doors when they are too hard to close.
I hope this tutorial has been helpful, either in helping you evaluate whether to replace your own torsion springs, or in helping you through the step by step process of actually replacing them. I have been frank about the hazards of garage door repairs and about my own accidents incurred while replacing torsion springs. Residential and light commercial garage doors use drums with a four-inch diameter, while heavier doors use five-inch drums.
A drum can sometimes slip, causing one side to be higher than the other so the door won’t seal on the ground. However, because the Torque Force 400-144 drum is wider, it provides more surface area for gripping the torsion bar and reduces the risk of a slip. Because the Torque Force 400-144 and Torque Force 400-96 are both four inches in diameter, there will be no change to your spring configuration or size.
While heavier industrial doors have keyed solid shafts with a coupler that can be adjusted to level the door, lighter commercial and most residential garage doors do not have couplers for leveling the doors. Additionally, you will need to compress any astragal or weatherstripping that is on the bottom of your garage door.
If the cable is not fitted properly on the drum or is frayed, this tutorial will not help you. While step ladders tend to suffice for residential work, you probably will need an extension ladder for commercial and industrial work. We do this to keep the drum from turning too much and to keep the shaft from spinning if the setscrews on both cable drums are too loose. Once the two marks line up, tighten the setscrew just enough that the marks will stay where they are.
If the bottom of the garage door is still not level, repeat this process following steps six through nine with another mark or marks until the door is level. If one of the 2 springs have broken you should be able to open the door but it will be very heavy and will not stay open by its self. But it took 2 of us to get it up about a feet or so enough to slide a tire under and then i used the jack as leverage. When opening a door by hand, keep a hand on it and slow it down before it stops on its own. If you don't have the right tools and haven't done a few dozen of them then don't mess with it. Instructions for replacing a single torsion spring, for replacing garage door extension springs, and for replacing Wayne Dalton Torquemaster springs are linked to our DIY Instructions page above. The drum is cast aluminum alloy 4" in diameter and 12.6" in circumference around the flat portion.
While the manufacturer has made great strides in developing a safe design for do-it-yourselfers to install their torsion springs, replacing these parts can be very difficult. In addition, one of our customers has provided excellent EZ-Set Torsion System instructions for removing the spring without wrecking the winding unit that secures the stationary cone.
From my own experience I would guess that at least 10% of the doors have the wrong springs on them, and many more could be improved. If you do not use the right tools and follow safe procedures, you could lose hands, limbs or even your life. A few years later I had five stitches in my right thumb, and a year later five stitches in my left thumb. To avoid injury, clutch the bars firmly on the ends furthest away from the cones and stand securely on a sturdy ladder, not on chairs or cans turned upside down.
Keep your hands away from the cones so that if and when the winding bar slips out of the cone and your hand jerks up, the cone doesn't rip your flesh or wrap your clothes and body parts into the spring. Stretching the springs the width of eight or nine coils is difficult, and leveling the garage door can also be challenging. Keep the ruler and your fingers on the outside of the springs and away from the winding cone. Position and turn them so the ends on top are facing you and pointing to each other as pictured here. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER touch a set screw without first inserting a properly fitting bar into the winding cone! Sometimes a single bearing is pressed into the bracket; other brackets have a single bearing or bushing that fits in either cone. I do it, and most garage door installers do it as a general installation rule to allow flexibility in opener installation. If you did not mark your drums and you can't find the original indentations in the shaft, finger-tighten the setscrews until the screws meet the shaft.
Professionals always stretch torsion springs after winding them because the shaft floats horizontally between the flexible end bearing plates as the door operates. You will wind both springs up and counter intuitively as if you are trying to unscrew the winding cones from the ends of the springs. If the spring shortens in length, unwind the spring and switch sides - the springs are on backward.

Otherwise, after winding the torsion springs, you will need to stretch the springs and secure the winding cone.
While lifting up and back, tap the top of the bar just under the winding cone with your other bar. Many of the accidents that occur while fixing springs are due to installing springs that are too strong. If the door is off the floor and the roller is against the vise grip, close the door with one hand and remove the vise grip with the other.
If you have the correct springs the door should stay down when closed, half way when opened half way, and open when opened. For what it's worth, you might be surprised to know that I, too, have benefitted from producing these instructions. They are not to be copied, repackaged or redistributed; both text and images are protected by international copyright law.
Protect yourself from serious injury and your property from further damage by reading all of the instructions below in addition to watching the video. When you work on a ladder always hook one of your legs through a rung on the ladder to stabilize yourself. Caution: Under-tightening the drums could cause the drum to slip and the door to cock or fall. You will need to call a garage door repair person to replace the cable and or springs to make the door function properly. Just call the guy that installed it and tell him he needs to come back and fix the cable cause it fell off the drum.
You'll also find a link for any other garage door parts you may need while repairing your door. Instead of a spanner tool, you may prefer to use a pipe wrench or large channel locks to hook the end of the spring and remove it from the cones in the last step. I have also found that most individuals - even garage door technicians - have difficulty measuring torsion springs. In 2004 emergency room staffs dug steel out of my eye and sewed up my ring finger with eight stitches. I've had many of the older cones spin loose from my bars, the last one generating an $1800 emergency room bill.
Remove the bushing from the cone and leave it on the shaft next to the center spring bracket. Brackets for doublewide wood doors should have two lags on the bottom, because when the springs are wound the spring torque pulls the bracket from the bottom.
If the shaft is distorted because the garage door installer overtightened the setscrews, file the shaft, insert a bar into the cone and tap the bar with a hammer until the cone passes over the enlarged portion of shaft. If needed tap the outside of the headplate with a hammer while pulling the shaft to the right until the shaft slides through the bearing.
Customers frequently call and explain that when they get about six turns on the springs they spin on the cones. On single-spring garage doors an end bearing plate that leans should be braced with angle or lumber.
The cable tip should fit completely inside the drum, with the rounded part facing out so the tip can't scrape the end bearing plate. This will keep the cable snug on the first drum while you install the cable on the other drum and position it in place. Winding torsion springs with cracked cones can cause the springs to spin loose and the bars to fly.
If your spring does not get longer as you wind it, you are winding it the wrong direction probably because it is improperly installed.
Pulling the bar back toward the center of the door as you tap causes the spring cone to bind on the shaft and not slip back.
If the garage door spring snakes after tightening the setscrews, repeat the process and stretch the spring half as much as before. If the door comes up by itself when you hold the bar lightly, the springs are either over wound or they are too strong. I have not had any garage door accidents since we first published these on the web in 2005. The three numbers you are given will help you to determine a more accurate measurement for step 4 in this tutorial. Over-tightening the setscrews could damage the shaft or drum, resulting in the same problems.
Many contractors use low cycle rate springs and do not use the correct size spring for the job. There is probably nothing wrong with your opener, it just cant lift the door without the assistance of the springs and cables.
The cable unwraps off the back of the drum between the drum and the garage wall or jamb and travels down alongside the door, inside the track brackets and behind the roller stems as shown.
If your cones are like any of these, or if they have more than 2" of play, leave the job of installing torsion springs to a professional garage door mechanic. A ruler and a file may also be necessary; a socket wrench and sockets would shorten the time required.
If the cone slips, the wrench could break your hand in 10 spots before unwinding completely. Often the bushing gets stuck in the cone and customers will call us about getting a new bushing until they discover it is still in the cone of the spring replaced earlier.
We stretch the springs because the shaft floats horizontally between the flexible end bearing plates as the garage door operates. If it does start to slip, rest the bar against the top of the garage door, insert a bar in the next hole and turn the cone up enough to make it possible for you to push the marked bar back into place.
And, in as much as I have helped keep other DIY-ers out of the emergency room, I consider myself somewhat of a medical practitioner. Others are turned off at a breaker box with multiple switches that control power to other equipment as well.
This makes their prices seem lower plus they will have the generic springs on the truck so it saves them time. The type that runs along the sides of the track can be replace by a home owner if they know how its done. The bottom of the cable is attached to a bracket that wraps around the front of and outside the vertical track.
It's my guess that this is the number one cause of trips to the emergency room for inexperienced homeowners fixing or replacing their springs. If you want to test the force you will be handling before loosening the set screws, push up on the bar one quarter turn and bring it back down. The purpose of the bushing is to keep the shaft from wearing against the spring anchor bracket. That one grip can save many hours of walking back and forth and having to level and re-level the garage door after winding the torsion springs.
It could be a stuck cable, the garage floor may have shifted, or the vertical angle that helps support the bearing plate may have loosened and shifted.
This bearing keeps the shaft from rubbing against the inside of the stationary cones and on the center bracket. Larger commercial and industrial overhead garage door torsion springs are stretched as much as an inch. If the door comes up on its own, you either have to many turns on the springs or you have the wrong springs. Squirt a stream of motor oil across the tops of the torsion springs and rub the oil into the coils.
If you have any doubts about your ability to safely change your springs, we recommend you hire a professional to repair your garage door. Repairing garage doors, particularly replacing torsion springs, is dangerous work, whether you are a do-it-yourself homeowner or an experienced technician.
The only safe way to replace these older springs is to make a winding bar for each hole of each cone. If it is over 2" either get someone else to change your springs or have someone make some bars that will properly fit the cones. Next, while grasping the other end of the bar firmly, loosen the set screws with an open-end wrench or small adjustable wrench loose enough to come free should the cone spin.
However, if you do need to replace the bearing and you do not have a new one, you can replace it at a later date. About once a month we get a phone call from a do-it-yourself customer who begins the conversation with, "I wound the garage door spring to about six turns and the spring came loose from the cone." We normally refer them back to this step and suggest they switch their springs.
Each time you insert a bar into the winding cone, listen for the click to let you know the bar is in all the way. The chord length is the distance through space between the starting and ending points on the shaft. Loosen the setscrew again until you see the lower mark move and immediately re-tighten the set screw. This is "two." As you wind the spring it should grow in length the thickness of one coil for every turn.
Caution: The chord length can be a less accurate measurement unless you understand how it corresponds to the angle of rotation.
Many garage door tradesmen mark the torsion springs with chalk or paint, but this often generates confusion.

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