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Garage storage garage journal lighting,storage prices stoke on trent 60,schedule 40 pipe astm - Downloads 2016

21.09.2013 admin
Cycling plays a huge role in my life and I am curious to see some storage solutions for multiple bicycles in a garage. In a couple weeks I'll go from zero garage to 3.25 garages (the third single car bay is quite a bit wider than a normal single car garage). I saw this the other day at Target they have these new bike rack holders for the bikes they sell in the store. I have a 10" ceiling in my garage and I just use the threaded hooks with plastic coating on them and hang them by their wheels, works great. The other nice thing is I have the rope tied off at just the height so that once it comes to the ground the wheel just touch, but there is tension on the rope, so the lift acts as a stand. I think I may go with the joist idea since this would allow me to stack more bikes in a corner and actually get them a little further off the ground compared to my current wall mount solution.
I just moved into a new house with a bigger garage, I stow 13 bikes, most from wheel on hook on wall, the rest on a rack. I have a garage that uses trusses, however there is a small portion, 6 x 20 on the back wall that is actually the floor of the upstairs. Ideally I'd like to use a system like in the link above and mount it above the garage doors.
If I were to mount the rack to area that is where there is floor above I would mount it in the corner and secure 2 of the 4 sides to the wall, supporting the free corner with a piece of angle iron similar to the system in the link.
I plan on storing seasonal stuff that is in rubbermaid totes as well as some totes of baby clothes.
In this picture, you can see that my garage was made longer at some point in its history, so the old beam is there. I reinforced the vertical pieces that connect to the ceiling with steel, just so there wouldn't be any surprises if a piece of wood slowly failed. I guess my concern or fear is that based on some searches and other reading is that the cords of the trusses aren't meant for much weight and are in tension so added weight to them only adds addition tension to them.
Would you mind providing me with a link as to where this uni-strut can be purchased on line for a reasonable price. I believe your method is the best balance of cost and build quality I am seeking for my current garage. Their system mounts on the wall which (according to them) is better because it doesn't put additional stress on the trusses. Thought I'd also provide some "relative" price comparison with similar garage cabinets I looked at on-line.
I was contemplating going with the seville cabinets myself but opted for unfinished wood ones and finished them myself. I bought a few of those Seville cabinents, I don't think they are quite as nice as the Gladiator but when you look at the price then they can't be beat.
The Seville Classic cabinets are all steel, a combination of powder coated metal panels and stainless steel doors. The other cabinets in the comparison are steel, as well, from the information I was looking at.
One thing to note with the gladiators if you get the prebuilt ones they are welded up and very solid. I actually prefer the look of the Gladiator cabinets, but I'm just not sure I can justify the premium price. I figure for a bench, two wall cabinets, a rolling cabinet and a couple of tall cabinets you would spend $1165 MORE for the Gladiator then you would with Seville. As far as the workbench goes, while I have yet to put it together, it definitely looks bulletproof. Extrapolating that differences in pricing (above) to the rest of my six pieces plus the wall cabinets (probably ~4) I will buy to match and it is easily $1000 less than Gladiators.
I'm sure there are already threads with pictures and instructions on here but this place can be overwhelming when trying to find something. I am looking to store some lumber (mostly various lengths of 2x4's etc and a few sheets of plywood.
I really don't want to go buy something when I have dozens of 2x4's right here that I can build it with. It could be something as easy as this but I'm not sure what the best way to attach it to the ceiling would be. Search prior GJ threads as there have been some good ones on storage like you are talking about.
You could build some nice ones using UniStrut where the only hole through ceiling woudl be for the threaded rods up to support system in attic (ie 2x4's across joists ; this would be strongest). There are also store-bought "cages" that hang from ceiling, but these are more for light-weight storage. SIDE STORY: When house hunting, there was one where die-hard carpenter had built special slot that would allow 4'x8' sheets of plywood, etc. My question is should I just make 3 of them at 24" intervals or should I make 3 at 48" intervals.
How can a guy with over 450 pairs of pliers, cutters, tongs, grips etc, have a "favorite"? A bit of slatwall and some shallow shelves can keep all your spray cans in order and there is room for rags or a box a latex gloves to keep everything clean. The benefit is that you can easily add or remove an extra shelf when you use up or add to your supply.


After getting a new lift my 4 pairs of jack stands are getting lonely, great idea for what to do with them.
I built some custom sized shelving to hold 3 pair on the top, an extra jack in the middle and my regular use jack stores under it. Official Title- Liaison to the deputy director to the traveling secretary of adult entertainment and internal affairs for The Florida Garage Life Club. For that price of one of those wooden wrencher tool chests, I can have a really nice tool set and some welders, and even a lift. My garage is 10ft wide and I plan to have a storage loft above the garage door that is 10ft wide x 8ft in length. I look forward to the responses and thank you in advance for your assistance to my first wood project. When I read your idea, the first thought that came to mind is what kind of door - Overhead? I built a similar loft above my front garage door to store all the body parts off of a 70 challenger I am in the process of restoring. Personally, I think 8ft deep is WAY too deep for what you describe you'll be putting up there. All this advice is assuming you're NOT planning on putting most of an entire car up there like "bob pa".
Based on the other posts in response to you, it would appear that others have made the 8' depth work for them. Mine is all 2by4s but i'm only about 3-4 foot deep (about as far as I could reach on a ladder) and i used unistrut drop downs (bridging two rafters up top to distribute the load.
So what I did was lag bolted using 4" SPX lag bolts from HD (T30 driven, much nicer than screws or hex lag bolts IMO) a 2x4 across the top to act as a mounting point.
I ran 2x4's the whole way, 2x6's might be better but honestly they are going to be bolted in well. What kind of clearance should I leave between the open overhead garage door & and the plywood? Wow, i just got outta the marine corps and 3 months ago i bought my first house with the money i saved. As far as the cabinets go ,keep asking and someone will help you out with them.The guys on here are full of good ideas. Just pick up some how too books at lowes or homer depot, you can find all kinds of projects in those type of books. Otherwise, be sure to crawl through the garage gallery in this forum - man, some of the guys in there have great ideas - heck, look at dustym's work above. For the plain gloss radiused edge design - which I think works best in a garage environment - it would take an age to achieve the standard of finish available on mass produced items. I think the poster was referring to the fact that aluminum ladders are dangerous if you are working around electricity. I have a three car garage and store my ladder under a shelf that spans the two garage door rails in the middle of the garage. If I had only one garage door, I'd make a "Slide-in" shelf on one side between the rail the ceiling. Mount a fixed pair of ladder hooks on the rafters in your garage to hold one end and use the bicycle hook & pulley system to raise up the other end.
When you need to get it down, just release the pulley side, lower one end down to the ground then unhook the "top" end and you're on your way. I don't want to put it outside because someone could use it to climb onto the roof and gain access through a window. And lastly, i still want it to have easy access for my dad, because he is older and i'm not always around to lift the cumbersome awkward stuff for him. I'm thinking a pulley system on the ceiling is the best bet so far, but what do you guys have for ideas?
If you have a garage door opener, you probably have some angle iron brackets, and if so, consider attaching it to the brackets. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. During the usable season I keep my wife's bike on a rack on the wall as she can't reach her bike when its hanging from the ceiling.
A couple boards attached between the top chord of two trusses gives me something to screw the hooks into. I failed to mention that whatever I do I'll plan to use a piece of angle iron that is screwed into at least 2 joists. The wife would prefer that and I know it's more secure, now I just have to figure out where to put the bikes.
While not necessarily exactly "apples to apples" in terms of all features (aka, # of shelves, ~metal gauge, all construction details, etc.), I thought the significant difference in price was worth mentioning. Ultra HD Storage Cabinet and various other brands of similar size garage cabinets that Sears sells. There are wire products designed to hold items to be stored above garage doors, that are adjustable in height. The Joists are only designed to effectively carry the dead load of the sheetrock and insulation.
Cut my teeth on them 40 years ago, learning the parts system at my dad's International Harvester farm equipment dealership.


Looks like it would be quick and simple to make and he would always know where the stands were. Any other use of this posting or any pictures, descriptions, or accounts of the posting without TAMPAGT07's consent is prohibited. If overhead, how much clearance do you have between the raised door and the bottom of your platform support structure?
I'd go much less and use those clear type storage boxes stacked so I could see what I've got up there.
I do not have enough structural knowledge to advise on your question about the direction to run joists.
I used 3" deck screws on the horizontal 2x4 because it faces the front of my house and I was concerned about 4" lag bolts going thru and into my siding outside. You don't want to go too heavy here, as the more weight you use for the floor, the less weight can be put topside. My garage is very important to me, as i will be spending most of my time in there working on various projects.
Most home improvement centers will have a way to help you with your plans, either on computer or with books on hand.
I would say before you go out and start buying a bunch of wood and stuff to make cabinets try getting them for FREE . A machine generated flat, fair surface is especially important cosmetically, when using a gloss finish. If nothing pick a corner where you can make theceiling a little higher, frame it and make a box to stick the ladder up into. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
My local Ace Hardware store sells them & I have installed 4 in my garage, with two more ready to go up.
I don't think I would want to rely on these to carry the amount of weight that multiple sheets of plywood would introduce. I used a ledger board all the way around that was lag bolted to the wall studs and built my own lam beam for the front that was gluded and bolted together. The lam beam in front has a peice of plywood sandwiched between two 2x6s that were gluded and bolted together. I had a "unique situation" in that I had a "mini wall" separating the front half from the back half of my garage, and unfortunately there were no studs inside. If you don't have that concern, use a 4" lag bolt or SPX torx bolt (I like them because they have a nice flat washer type surface on them) and go with it. I want to build a wooden cabinet system with a decent sized workbench area, but me and my buddies will be spending alot of time in there so i want it to look pretty cool. But if you want inovation, just wait for replys here or look at old threads for some of the most interesting building ideas ever. I picked up all the cabinets in these pictures I am linking to for FREE by simply placing a wanted add on Craigslist and picking them up . I wouldn't trust it for storing stockpiles of ammunition or anything heavy, but for most general crap, I'd think it would be fine. Personally, if you have only 25" above the loft floor, I would not build anything more than 2 to 3 feet deep.
In other words, big enough to be useful but not so big as to cause you to store junk and lose track of it. The only time I did something similar, I built a 2.5 foot deep by 4 foot tall by 16 foot wide cabinet in a recess of my garage up near the ceiling.
I built 2 large cabinets 4'x6' x11" and 2 wall cabinets (forgot size) for less than $100.00. While it would probably be easier to get the cabinets for free from craigslist, i really want to build them myself, dont know why, i just think it would be fun.
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However in retrospect I may have built it easier if I just bought some of those engineered wood beams running several of them longways. Anyone know where i can get some plans to build some really good looking cabinets with materials i can buy at home depot?
I have never worked with wood in my life by the way but im pretty handy and im sure i can pick it up. However, at the time I did not realize the mom and pop hardware store down the street from me sold them until after it was all up.
I just ordered a full kit of Epoxy-coat thats going down this weekend, ive already mounted a plasma tv on the wall, and i embedded a nice surround sound system in the walls. I was just gonna get all the wood cut to length at home depot when i bought it, since i havent invested in any tools yet. If i can get some plans ill start building the cabinets immediatly, and ill put up pictures shortly.



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