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20.08.2013 admin
There are several types of retaining wall: brick, stone, gabon, block, concrete and wooden retaining walls. This article describes an easy way to build a raised garden railroad with 2x6" stringers (horizontal pieces) and 4x4" posts sunk into the ground like fenceposts.
Skillwise, this article is a "step up" from the 1-Day-Railroad project, in which a loop of track and enough plants and buildings to dress it up are installed at ground level. Another way of looking at this is to note that this project requires about the same tools, intelligence, and effort as installing a few feet of fence. For the sake of this article, we are assuming that you plan to use preformed track curves (the kind that come already curved in a box), and that your "layout" will allow "continuous running" (such as on a circle or oval). Raised railroads are easier to maintain, since you don't have to bend over so far to work on things.
In addition, raised railroads that use solid timber construction make it virtually impossible for weeds to disrupt your train service.
If you are planning to raise a ground-level railroad (such as the railroad described in the 1-Day-Railroad article), you already have most of what you need, except for the lumber, concrete, posthole digger, and any additional materials you need to compensate for any expansion. One difference between a raised railroad and a ground-level railroad is that when you get everything where you think you want it and you put your track on the wooden "roadbed, you may find that your measurements are off a tad and you need to cut and insert a little piece of track to make things meet up right.
A package of aftermarket rail joiners (sometimes called rail clamps) that screw onto the rails without the rails requiring pre-drilled holes. Any single loop of track should be raised to about the same level at the same time, so your train doesn't fly down one hill and struggle up the next as it circles.
If you haven't already set a loop of track in your back yard, you may not realize how tiny the 4'-diameter circle of track that came with your train looks outside. On the other hand, if you're really cramped for space, just experimenting for now, or you're thinking about having a dinky mountain train circling the waterfall four feet off the ground and adding another, bigger railroad a foot or two lower, you may find a 5' or even a 4' circle fits your needs. Ordinarily, I recommend taking smaller steps, like proving to yourself you can build a small raised railroad first. 2x6" Pressure-treated lumber - You will use 2x6s for the horizontal part of this structure, so how much you need depends on how much track you have, plus a 25% or so "fudge factor" to compensate for waste at the end of each board. The following table gives the minimum lengths of 2x6 you'll need for the most common preformed track diameters - remember to add length to compensate for waste at the end of each board.
1x6" Pressure-treated lumber - You will use 1"x6"x10" pieces as "plates" joining the 2x6 roadbed pieces.
4x4" Pressure-treated posts - For this method most folks use one post per every 18" to 24" of track, with a maximum of 32" for straight pieces or really broad curves. If you are using 4'-diameter curves, you could theoretically get by with one post for every two curved pieces, but some folks prefer a few more posts than that, since they feel that the horizontal boards require more support because of the sharp curves. If you are using 5' or 8' diameter curves, you should be okay with one post for every one and a half curved pieces, but some folks decide that's too hard to figure and use one post per curve anyway. If you are using 10'- diameter curves, consider using at least one post for every piece of curved track.
The part you are installing has low risk of visitors or workers leaning against it or bumping into it. There is low risk of washouts, flooding, standing water around the posts, or extremely cold winters. Note: As an example of the maximum possible length for these things, my friend Will Davis has a long straight section of raised railroad with 2x6 stringers supported about every 48". Conversely, if you have no plans to backfill immediately, or if your railroad will be exposed to contact with visitors, workers, or extreme weather conditions, you should consider a more conservative installation (such as one post every 24" or less). The length of each post depends on how high you are raising your railroad and how deep your frostline is. Concrete Mix- It is possible to install a raised railroad in an area with deep frost without concrete. If you are working in cold weather, consider getting the kind that sets in cold temperatures. If you are trying to get the whole railroad installed in a day, consider getting the kind that sets up really fast.
That said, most folks I know use the "plain stuff" in most cases, but we feel obligated pass along the advice of people who are probably smarter than we are.
Note: If, when you're laying out your track, you find a section in which it looks like you will have to cut a piece to make everything fit, just make a note to yourself, and let it go for now. To figure the length of each post, add the depth of the frost line to the height you want your roadbed to be elevated, plus a few inches to compensate for uneven ground. Note" Do not cut your posts at an angle under the impression that you can pound them into the ground more easily. To be on the "safe side," some folks (especially those counting on concrete really hold things in place) like to do the posts one day and the stringers (horizontal pieces) the next day. When your posts (or at least a segment of your railroad) are solid, figure out which post is "shortest," then get out your laser level and mark all the other posts to the same level (unless you are planning on a grade of some kind). Note: If you didn't use concrete to set the posts, or if you think you may want to adjust the grade later for some reason, consider attaching 2x6" blocks to the posts and using those to support the roadbed.
The horizontal boards that connect bridge or trestle piers and support the track are called "stringers." The stringers that will support straight pieces of track are easy - a five-foot stringer supports a five-foot piece of track. On the other hand, the stringers that support the curved pieces of track have to be cut at the correct angles. Once you're sure how many pieces of your track make a circle, download and print the appropriate template. Note: Though it isn't recommended for outdoor use, traditional American Flyer S gauge track and much of the track that comes with HO train sets, also take 12 curves to a circle.
Note: Though it isn't recommended for outdoor use, Lionel's O-72 FasTrack "half-pieces" also take 16 curves to a circle. Using the template you printed earlier, measure and cut the horizontal pieces you need from the 2x6s. Some folks who use this method simply take the pieces out to the posts and start screwing them down.
Update from 2009: - When I built my first railroad this way, I used the "upside-down-method to reduce the number of screw-holes visible from the top when the roadbed is assembled and to make it easier to center the "plates" where they needed to be. When you are satisfied with the position of the stringers, remove the track and center 1x6" plates over the junction between the pieces. The final test of a subassembly comes when you turn it right side up and set it onto the cut posts where it is supposed to go.
As you continue to put your subassemblies together, you may wish to fasten a plate to one end of each subassembly before you start fastening them each to posts. Note: Although the method above works well for a person working by himself, I've known teams of folks who've installed everything on the posts at teh same time, driving screws down through the stringer, plate, and post all at the same time.
When you have screwed together subassemblies as long as you or your team can reasonably handle, start fastening the subassemblies to the posts, begining with the section closest to the most common viewing position. Begin by screwing a long deck screw through the 2x6" stringer and 1x6" plate right into the post. By the time your stringers and plates are attached loosely to the posts all the way around, you should be able to tell if any more adjustments need to be made. By now, you should have most of the track pieces fastened together laying where they belong. By now, you should have all of the track you are going to install on this loop fastened together and more or less in place. When things finally look like you hoped they would, wipe the track clean, put on a locomotive, and let it go slowly around the track.
Using your circular saw, whack off the ragged corners where either the stringers or the plates stick out.

Buying a few feet of pond liner and making an irregular shaped pond somewhere near or inside your loop. Using real stones or some of those trapezoid-shaped landscaping blocks to build a retaining wall, then backfilling.
Using something cheap, but functional, like used concrete blocks, to hold your backfill, then using a mix of real rocks and "Bob Treat" rocks to dress it up.
One thing you can't do right away is paint or otherwise finish your pressure-treated lumber. Once again, this is only one approach for raising a roadbed, and many other approaches have been used successfully. As always, I want your feeback; please let me know what is helpful, what is confusing, and what shortcuts or "gotcha's" you'd like me to pass on to our readers. Because this method has been around so long, it has been adapted many time sto specific needs or interestes of individuals.
Flextrack options - The most frequent variation is to use "Flex track" instead of preformed curves.
No Concrete - Wil Davis, in the Dayton, Ohio area (gardening zone 5.5, frost line 18"), says he has given up on using concrete to hold posts in place as it seems to hold moisture and decrease the lifespan of the posts. Horizontal Support - Instead of fastening the stringers directly to the posts, my friend Wil Davis fastens a short block of 2x6" to each post and fastens the stringers to those. This method is especially useful if you are using parallel tracks on separate, but adjacent stringers; you can simply use a horizontal bit of 2x6" as a "beam" under both stringers. Laminated Roadbed - Another variation has been introduced by Paul Busse, who for years used 2x6" stringers on 1x6" plates and 4x4" posts to build world-class garden railways in botannical gardens and many other public places.
My old garden railroading friend Fred Mills lives near Ottowa (in Canada), where the frost line is so deep up there he would have to sink "fence posts" half way to Niagra Falls to get past it. Fred doesn't exactly build decks, to support his railroad (although some of his railroad yards almost qualify). For a tantalizing peek at this construction method (and at some very interesting uses of Jigstones) take a look at the IPP&W Railway. Temporary Display Layouts - Many organizations that set up temporary display layouts use the kind of subassemblies described in this article to support the track.
If you have any images of your railroad construction that you'd like to share or any tips or other things I've left out, please get in contact, and I'll publish whatever you have.
Note: Family Garden Trains?, Garden Train Store?, Big Christmas Trains?, BIG Indoor Trains?, and BIG Train Store? Dieser Artikel wird A?ber das Programm zum weltweiten Versand verschickt und mit einer internationalen Sendungsnummer versehen. Das Lieferdatum a€“ wird in einem neuen Fenster oder Reiter geA¶ffnet bezieht sich auf einen Zahlungseingang (z.B. Internationale Versandkosten und Einfuhrabgaben werden teilweise gezahlt an Pitney Bowes Inc. Dieser Artikel wird nach Taiwan geliefert, aber der VerkA¤ufer hat keine Versandoptionen festgelegt.
Hinweis: Bestimmte Zahlungsmethoden werden in der Kaufabwicklung nur bei hinreichender BonitA¤t des KA¤ufers angeboten. Wenn das aktuelle Gebot 20 US-Dollar betrA¤gt und Sie 30 US-Dollar geboten haben, dann bieten wir fA?r Sie 21 US-Dollar. Wenn ein anderer Nutzer 31 US-Dollar bietet, dann bieten wir nur bis zu Ihrem HA¶chstbetrag von 30 US-Dollar. Durch Klicken auf Gebot bestA¤tigen verpflichten Sie sich, diesen Artikel zu kaufen, sofern Sie bei Auktionsende HA¶chstbietender sind. Sie sind derzeit HA¶chstbietender fA?r diesen Artikel, kA¶nnten aber jeden Moment A?berboten werden. Sie sind HA¶chstbietender fA?r diesen Artikel, der Mindestpreis wurde jedoch noch nicht erreicht.
Ihr Gebot wurde nicht akzeptiert, da es genauso hoch wie das Gebot eines anderen Nutzers ist. We have an collection of Garden Trains 006 Building An Indoor Large Scale Railroad in various styles. Because this material will contact directly to earth, it needs waterproofing treatment to prevent rapidly damaged from moisture factor. For many years, this method was the preferred way to install garden railroads, used by professionals and amateurs alike. However, in case you have never done anything along this line, I have broken the process up into many small steps, and provided diagrams and templates to make it easier to follow.
Our example will be based on an oval, although you may certainly use other shapes with this method. The closer railroads are to "eye level," the more people notice details and feel "involved" with the train and the communities it serves. If settling soil, a burrowing animal or a rainstorm washout rearranges the dirt around and under the track, the track will stay usable, so you can still run your trains while you are repairing the "cosmetic" aspects.
Even the "Flexible Roadbed" method can't do that, unless you install weed barrier underneath the roadbed as you backfill.
At least one of your levels must have a "sideways" bubble that you can use to make certain your posts are vertical. If you are using preformed curves (and you remember what diameter track you bought), you can use "PI" to figure out how many linear feet of curved track you have. There will often be more waste, if you are using larger curves than if you're using smaller curves.
Note: If you've read my article on Planning Your Garden Railroad for High Reliability, you'll notice that I actually prefer a modified oval that mixes track diameters to create smoother transitions from straight to curve, but this illustration will give you the general idea. This section has been installed for about five years as of this writing and is showing no signs of "swaying" or other problems yet. Read the instructions carefully, though, particularly the part about not burying the DekBlocks, and don't plan on your posts to stick out much more than a foot beyond the DekBlock, unless you devise a method of crossbracing. For a small loop, this may be as simple as putting the track pieces together and laying them where you expect the track to go once it's installed permanently.
Your railroad is likely to undergo minor variations as the stringers and track are installed, anyway, and there's no sense cutting track until you're certain of the final measurements. But if your posts are well set, there's no reason the the stringer team can't follow the posthole team fairly closely. You may discover that, though you planned to raise your railroad to 24", the shortest post now is 28" above the ground. The "Horizontal Support" alternative method described in Appendix 1 provides more informaton on this alternative. So if you are building a temporary railroad for those trains, you will probably use this template as well.
So if you are building a temporary O72 railroad using FasTrack, you will probably use this template as well.
Remove the template temporarily and align the piece of track you are cutting for along the 2x6 as evenly as you can, lining one end up with the end that you cut. Flop the template over, slide it underneath the track, and use the template to measure the other end of the board. To check your work, lay the three pieces you have cut so far together and fasten three pieces of track together on top of them. This will give you a chance to make certain that end is properly assembled, and reduce the amount of "upward" screwing you have to do when the whole thing comes together.
Do not fasten the screw down as firmly as possible, until you've go the whole section (or whole railroad) fastened down loosely.

When you're certain the "fit" is as good as possible, use the level one more time to make certain the roadbed isn't rising and falling unnecessarily between posts, or that the rail height of any piece of track is uneven. If you have AristoCraft or USA trains track, screw the track pieces together using the screw-on rail joiners that come with the track.
Generally, I use from one to three straight cuts to get things looking pretty even without straining my circular saw too much. You can backfill, build retaining walls, build rockgardens, or even put in a pond to fill in the blank between the ground and the railroad level. Generally it takes weeks or months for any excess moisture to leach out and the rest to dry up.
The advantage of this method is that you don't have to be quite so paranoid about your roadbed ending up exactly the "right" shape to hold your curves.
Instead he digs the posts in as described in this article, although he usually goes about six inches deeper than the recommended "frost line" depth. This way, if a post shifts a bit over the winter (which happens very rarely with properly buried posts) Wil simply backs out a few screws, resets the block, and fastens it all back together again. But his roadbed does use 2x6 pressure-treated wood assembled just as we described above (in fact Fred helped us with the math for this article).
Instead of burying posts in the ground, though, they create some sort of framework or "bases" to support the subassemblies.
This will give you the number of degrees from perpendicular that you need to make your cut. So the cut at the end of each piece of track has to be 15 degrees from perpendicular (or 75 degrees from linear, which you get when you subtract 15 from 90). Kontaktieren Sie den VerkA¤ufer- wird in einem neuen Fenster oder Tag geA¶ffnet und fragen Sie, mit welcher Versandmethode an Ihren Standort verschickt werden kann. Dieser VerkA¤ufer bietet Versandrabatte bei Kombizahlungen an, wenn Sie Artikel mit den gleichen Versandkriterien kaufen. Wenn Sie auf Gebot bestA¤tigen klicken und HA¶chstbietender sind, gehen Sie einen rechtsverbindlichen Vertrag mit dem VerkA¤ufer ein. Here is some inspiring pictures about Garden Trains 006 Building An Indoor Large Scale Railroad . If we do it right, a wooden retaining wall can beautify garden and give it a more natural look.
If people will generally be seated when they watch the trains, a railroad that is 24 or 30" off the ground will provide fairly horizontal viewing while allowing little kids to see what's going on without an adult having to pick them up.
In fact, the part of my railroad, the New Boston and Donnels Creek, that I installed this way is the only part that has approached zero maintenance out of all the techniques I have attempted. If I had the time and space, I think I'd like to have another raised section (say a little logging railroad) that's even higher than my current raised section to improve the vertical dimension.
The advantage of this approach is that you can easily mark the locations where the supporting posts need to be. You may choose to leave it that height and bring all of your other posts to that level, but remember that you may need extra backfill, retaining wall blocks, or other materials to make up the difference. However the principle applies to any track circle you buy, as long as you are using the correct template. If you are using some other manufacturer's track, follow that manufacturer's guidelines for a permanent installation. That said, I sprayed my posts with cheap gray primer after about three dry summer months of installation, and it held through most of the following year. All information, data, text, and illustrations on this web site are Copyright (c) 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 by Paul D. Bei einem spA¤teren Zahlungseingang a€“ wird in einem neuen Fenster oder Reiter geA¶ffnet verschiebt sich das Lieferdatum entsprechend. Click image to get bigger picture, and if you find Garden Trains 006 Building An Indoor Large Scale Railroad interesting, you might pin it to Pinterest. It’s important to choose a good wood as the source material, such as log, railroad and cedar. Build this retaining wall is great investment from several aspects: affordable price, natural, make stronger unstable soil and make over landscape become more beautiful. Although some magnificent railroads have been built using this approach, this article focuses on building a simple railroad that a couple people without any particular skills could have operational (though not cosmetically finished) in a weekend. But the point of a "simple raised railroad" is to have the majority of your track raised for viewing pleasure and operating convenience, and to keep each loop of track relatively level. That way you can get one person digging post holes (or moving DekBlocks) while you go off and start cutting lumber. If you have used a less hands-on method to verify your post locations, the whole measuring thing is up to you. You also need to keep in mind that the 2x6" stringers and the 1x6" "plates" will add about an additional 2.3" to the height of the project.
Die tatsA¤chliche Versandzeit kann in EinzelfA¤llen, insbesondere zu Spitzenzeiten, abweichen. As long as wood type is hard, strong and durable, or appropriately treated it can fulfill condition to be used. However, the project described in this example gets you from "ground level" to "the next level" with relative ease. Personally, I think a railroad that's 30" off the ground is easier on the knees and back, but don't bust your overall budget or build a railroad your grandchildren can't see just because you have enough "extra" height to add six inches to your railroad. To start this process on a segment with curved sections, lay 2 to 4 cut pieces of 2x6" together on a flat, hard surface like a driveway or patio, with the "B" side up. If you're using concrete mix, you'll have to hold the post in place while your helper pours a quarter to a third of a bag of concrete mix into the hole. Once you're certain you're "doing it right," feel free to cut the rest of the pieces you need in this size, and move on to the next size. The assembly may still have a little up-and-down "wiggle" when you've finished; but remember, the whole thing will be supported by posts every so many inches eventually.
Wil doesn't worry about the posts bumping up a bit now and then and making the track uneven, because he uses horizontal supports to brace the stringers instead of fastening the stringers directly to the posts (see below).
If you wish, your helper may splash some water into the hole after it (loosely following the manufacturer's instructions for the mix).
If you're not sure how to measure the pieces to go underneath the straight track, I'm afraid I can't help you.
Some folks have contacted me about the best way to put a train outsided as part of a Christmas display, and I can't help thinking this is the way to go, especially if you live somewhere that may get enough snow to make a ground-level railroad invisible from a "normal" viewing location. So if this is the right math for your area, it probably means you'll be buying one 4"x4"x8' for every two posts you need, which should give you plenty of extra for "leveling" the finished roadbed. On the other hand, the 2x6" stringers and the 1x6" "plates" will add an additional 2.3" to the height of the project, so that may affect your figures if you need to be really precise about the height of the track.
If you feel that you need more "assurance," consider getting some weatherproof wire, drilling small holes here and there next to the ties, and "wiring" ties losely down to the stringers, so that they can skootch around a little, but not enough to come off of the stringers.
See the "no concrete, horizontal support" alternative method of installation described in Appendix 1 for details).

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