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How to make a cat5 cable,shed windows 24 x 36 window,woodworking plans mailbox number,free woodworking plans changing table - Videos Download

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The type and location of the damage will dictate if it can effectively repaired, and in many cases you will be better off replacing the cable. Broken wire inside jacket - If you have a single wire, or even a single pair that is failing, and there is no outward damage apparent on the cable, you might as well just throw the cable away and start over with a new one. Many IT professionals have made it a standard that all patch cables are to be replaced when equipment is relocated, so using a repaired cable is not exactly a popular choice. This page gives you all the information you need to know about how to install and wire up a small CAT5, CAT5e, or CAT6 ethernet computer network, such as in your home or a small office; or to make your own Ethernet cables. Coax-cable Ethernets: These use wire that is more like cable-TV cable (but the cables are not interchangeable). Fiber-optic networks: Fiber supports very high data rates and longer distances (up to a few kilometers), but is much more expensive and touchier to work with. For a home or small office, twisted pair is the best choice for reliability, speed, and security, and wireless is the best choice for convenience.
Fortunately, high-speed parts also work fine at lower speeds: If you set up a CAT-5 network and plug in a machine whose Ethernet card only supports 10MBps, that's generally ok. Although I've tried hard to get this all right, it is entirely possible I've made mistakes here, or that your circumstances may require special materials or procedures beyond the simple cases I describe. For big projects, you may want a "patch panel" at the hub end where all your wires come together.
Very similar materials and techniques also apply to phone wiring, so you can use this Guide to help with that, too. The outer casing comes in normal (vinyl, PVC, etc.) which is just fine for most residential use, or the much more expensive "plenum" kind (teflon?) which is needed if you're running the wire in heating system plenums or certain commercial settings.
There are bundled cables that combine Ethernet, cable TV, and phone wires, for example from SmartHome. You can get sockets in a variety of forms (much like phone sockets), even at Radio Shack and Home Depot. Modular plates are about $1.50 and you can get them with 1, 2, 3, 4, or 6 holes (also double-width plates with 12 holes). Note: There are several manufacturers of modular plates and inserts, and inserts from one may not perfectly fit plates from another. Leviton makes a nice line, called "Quickport", including my favorite: "insert plates" that hold the inserts, but then can be covered with any "Decora" cover plate so they match your other plates (see below). In some places it would be nice to have a wall plate with a short cable built in, that you could just pull out for a few feet when needed. With a little searching, you should be able to find a kind of plug with one extra nice feature: the holes for the wires go all the way through. If you want to be fancy, you can buy little rubber "boots" to cover where the wires go into the plugs, in various colors for about $0.30. For simple nets you won't need a filtering bridge or router, just a plain unfiltering hub (though if you've got a DSL or cable modem connection, you may want one as a firewall). An inductive tone tracer (about $50) is also a really good investment: you clip the tester on one end of a wire, and the tracer lets you follow the wire even hidden behind walls, or obscured in bundles. If you're running wires between floors, try the very long, flexible drill bits, such as from Ideal Industries, or Altex. If you're extravagant about tools, and likely to run lots of wire above suspended ceilings or through crawl-spaces, Jensen supplies the Greenlee "CableCaster™", a great toy I bought that you'll want too. Oh, one last detail: if you're using a typical wooden folding ladder, take a minute to tighten all the bolts going across under the steps. If you're around DC, check out Capitol Cabling and Technology at 7905 Airpark Road, Gaithersburg, MD 20879, phone 1-800-899-9059. Figure out how you will get a wire(s) from each place you want a connection, to the hub location.
Geek note: These standard wiring arrangements are defined by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), the Telecommunications Industry Association (TIA), and the Electronics Industry Alliance (EIA).
Don't forget to label each cable at the hub end as soon as you pull it in -- if you wait, you'll probably have a painful sorting job later (for which you would be wise to buy the inductive tone tracer I mentioned earlier). The resistor color code seems the right one to use for organizing your cables: Black=0, Brown=1, Red=2, Orange=3, Yellow=4, Green=5, Blue=6, Purple=7, Grey=8, White=9.
Put a socket on the equipment end, and a plug on the hub end of each cable as described next.
Hint: If you're new to this, practice on scrap cable until you can cut the outer insulation without nicking the inner insulation. Hint: If your sockets (unlike the one shown) have a channel down the middle, with half the punch-down slots on each side, then bring the main cable down the middle, with the wires bending toward the outside.
For each wire, align it over the correct slot and punch it down to the bottom of the slot with a punchdown tool. Double-check which wire is in which slot (particularly, make sure you're consistent about T568A versus B). I strip a little more than I need, untwist, straighten each wire, then sort the wires into the right order. If you're running only 10Mbps on CAT5 wiring, you'll likely be just fine even with a few mistakes, such as slight kinks, periodic sags, or a little too much untwisting at some ends.
Never step on or otherwise crush, kink, or crimp the wire (don't staple or use tight wire ties or clips). Never bend CAT5 or higher wire tightly around a corner; make sure it bends gradually, so that a whole circle would be at least 2" across. Avoid running the wire parallel to power wiring nearer than 6" away (the longer the wires run parallel, the further away you want them). No run (hub to device) may be over 100 meters long (if you had a 100-meter long house, you'd be hiring this done anyway!). Try to run the wire where it is unlikely to be drilled, nailed, kinked, stepped on, or otherwise damaged by later tradespeople, picture-hangers, or anyone else. CAT5 and higher connectors look just like telephone connectors, only slightly wider, to allow 8 wires instead of 6. Since there are extra wires, you can try splitting them out into two sets of 4, and put 2 Ethernet connectors at the end of any wire.
The formal CAT5 definition reserves the extra 4 wires, so neither kind of cable-sharing is technically allowed. But CAT6 wiring does use all 8 wires, so if you share cable in this way you won't be able to upgrade to actual CAT6 speed -- then again, it may be a while before you really need 1 billion bit per second networks running in your house. There are two wiring options, called T568A and T568B ("USOC" is for something else and won't work). Only pair 3 (green, on pins 1 and 2), and pair 2 (orange, on pins 3 and 6) are actually used. Note: Old 10-base-t (CAT3) Ethernet specs called the green and orange pairs 1 and 2, apparently expecting you wouldn't have any other pairs around. If you're behind the socket with the latch downward, pin 1 is on the right (though the connection for pin 1 may not be).
Hint: Engrave "1" over pin one of the sockets on your tester and the opening on your crimping tool. When two computers communicate, you need the wire from each computer's "transmit" pin to go to the other's "receive" pin: thus the wires must cross over. Using a normal cable to connect two computers together directly (instead of via a hub) involves no crossover, and so it doesn't work.
Some hubs and routers have a special "uplink" port -- this is simply a port without a crossover.
If (I should say "when") you make one of these, mark it so clearly that you'll never confuse it. For CAT6 you have to swap pairs 1 and 4 also, because CAT6 does use all 8 wires (I imagine CAT6 probably sends 2 bits at a time on separate wires, to double the bit-rate). If you go on the road with a laptop, you'll want a crossover cable along for impromptu 2-machine networking (see my Road Warrior Guide for more on this). At this point I'll do like Herodotus and slightly break my promise about content, to tell you that for a 2-computer network you should just manually set a distinct IP address for each machine (that is, don't use DHCP or "automatic"). If you use a punchdown block or patch panel, the convention is to punch down the pairs in numeric order.
If you need to run a connection outdoors or (especially) underground, you should probably use specially-rated cable. It's may also be wise to put the cable inside of some kind of conduit rather than burying it directly. When using conduit, remember 2 key rules: First, never have more than 180 degrees of bends in conduit without an access point (like a "pull elbow"), or you'll have a very hard time pulling wire through at all. Many hubs and routers have one coax connecter in addition to all their twisted-pair sockets, so if you get those for each end, that's about all there is to worry about. You can extend the range of twisted-pair by hooking 2 electrically separate networks together.
Warning: When the phone rings, the voltage generates an electromagnetic field, which in turn generates voltage in the adjacent Ethernet wires. Since the blue pair is for the primary phone line in standard phone wiring, it makes sense to use it that way here too. Older phone wiring often has 4 wires, though an RJ11 jack can hold six and a single phone line needs only 2.
If you have a lot of phone connections in your house, you are best off running them in a "star" or "home run", that is, all running back to one central point. Typical DSL and cable modems connect to the carrier on one side, and have a standard Ethernet connector on the other.
If your provider uses fixed IP addresses, you can get an address for each machine from your provider (probably at extra cost). If your provider uses dynamically-assigned addresses ("DHCP"), you may be able to just plug in extra devices and they'll work. But God, or kindly nature, ended their contention -- driving land from sky and sea from lan. With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. The scheme lacks the DDC wires, the video board won't be able to detect which monitor type is attached. Well i dont know if the twisting of the cable helps the signal go further, but you can always use a standard wallplug rj-45 where you can punch in the cables.
All you are doing is cutting the cable flush, stripping the jacket and re-tipping the end of the cable. Even if you somehow manage to perform a flawless repair joining all 8 of the single wires back together, there is no way you can duplicate the original twist ratio of the pairs in such a manner to be sure you will not encounter signal problems. Trying to pinpoint the area of failure is all but impossible, and once again if you do find it, you have a difficult repair to attempt. I wrote this page to make network wiring easier after I dug up the information the hard way in order to wire my own house.
These comes in grades such as CAT-3, CAT-5, CAT-5e, CAT-6, and are also named by speed: 10base-T, 100base-T, 1000base-T. These have a longer range, about 185 meters, but are harder to install, and require special adapters to connect to current computers.
Wireless will be cheaper than putting connections ("drops") in every room, but more expensive than just a couple drops, such as in an office and bedroom. For home use 100Mbps is typically plenty, especially because the connection out to the Internet is generally far slower than that. That is, every device must have a separate wire back to a central point, where a device called a "hub" or "router" (under $50) passes data from one wire to another.
If you pay to have it done, make sure your contract requires the contractor to test and certify every line for the quality you are buying.
This is all the same as for any other kind of wiring, and you can learn it from tons of books available in your local book or hardware store, Amazon, etc. Apart from the usual dangers of sharp tools, you can encounter electrical wires, pipes, etc.

I can't advise you on that, and it is your responsibility to ensure that any work you do is safe and legal. Just buy a 1000-foot reel and do a random act of kindness by giving someone the leftover or helping them wire their house. Most new computers have them off-the-shelf, but many printers can't do Ethernet at all without a special print-server device in between.
Phone wiring can be a lot sloppier and still work, and CAT3 wire is just fine for it (though if you bought a roll of CAT5 or better, you might as well use it for everything). The plus is that it's significantly easier to pull everything at once: less tangling, fewer boxes and spools to manage, etc. One snag with these is that only Leviton's RJ45 inserts seem to be narrow enough to fit side-by-side on the 4- and 6-hole plates.
With these, you can strip a bunch of extra wire, pull it all through, and easily verify that you've got the wires in the right order. In large nets routers are crucial so that heavy internal traffic in one group doesn't slow down people in other groups.
They're perfect for reaching through the hole you make to put in a box, and then bending to drill straight through the sole plate.
This may involve painful vertical runs, slogging through attics full of fiberglass (don't skip the mask!), drilling through walls and sole plates, etc. Stay at least 6" from electrical wires if running parallel to them, and stay well away from flourescent lights. Use most anything but staples to support long runs and to ensure gradual rather than sharp curves (the key thing is not to crush or crimp the wire). Writing room names is good, but I've recently started using color-coding too, because it's much easier to scan a bunch of wires for bands of color than to read fine print on each wire.
I find it easiest to punch each wire into its slot with a fingernail, so it holds better while you're trying to align the punch-down tool. Squeezing the sorted wires between your fingers, and twisting very slightly from side to side, will help them sit neatly side-by-side. See the picture at right, but note that this picture shows much more stripped than you want, so that you can see the colors clearly.
But since most Ethernet devices are now 100Mbps it would be a shame to lose 90% of the speed for being sloppy.
Then comes the really arcane art of setting up your servers, DNS, etc., about which this document will tell you almost nothing.
This is especially critical with CAT5e and CAT6, so use j-hooks, loose velcro wire-ties, or other things to manage the wire. Watch especially when the wire comes out a drilled hole and turns; don't let knots or kinks happen even temporarily. Never do more than 180 degrees of conduit bends without putting in a "pull elbow" (an elbow with a plate you can open), or your chances of pulling wires through are poor. The limit in practice could be a little higher or a lot lower depending on quality of wire and workmanship. You can physically plug a 6-pin plug into an 8-pin socket, but it may damage pins 1 and 8 of the socket (I personally haven't seen that happen). However, several people have reported successfully doing it, and none have so far told me it has failed. So far as I know Ethernet protocols can't photo-detect the insulation color, but don't mess with it anyway. Most connectors are color-coded directly for T568A and T568B; the connections are seldom in the obvious order. Also draw your preferred color sequence on a sticker and put it in handy places like the back of the tester.
Connecting one hub (or DSL router, etc) to another would involve 2 crossovers, which is equivalent to no crossovers and also won't work. Thus, running a regular (non-crossover) cable from that port to a normal (non-uplink) port on another hub, ends up with exactly one crossover (at the other hub), and works fine. I recommend making all crossover cables, and only those, bright red, for example with some red paint or vinyl tape at each end. But instead of carrying two whole cables, make a short "crossover extension cord": put a little wire from a socket to a plug, wired in crossover fashion. This will save a lot of time later, when (not "if") you want to add more wires or replace a broken cable.
Second, use conduit one size larger than you thought at first; the conduit should never be more than 40% full. It may take a little practice to put coax connecters onto cable well; if you don't get it just right it will fail after a while, possibly in mysterious ways. There are several kinds, with different data rates, different length limits, different costs, etc. Some wireless devices claim much higher range, such as the "D-Link Wireless Air Xpert G Access Point" or DWL-2100AP here, that claims to have an outdoor range of up to 1312 feet. This violates the CAT5 rules, which reserve the remaining 4 wires (they are used if you upgrade to CAT6).
Since Ethernet runs at about 2-5 volts rather than this 50-90 volts, conceivably an Ethernet card or hub could be burned out ($$).
When attaching wires to sockets, just remove more of the outer shielding, and bend the blue pair over to connect to the center two pins of an RJ-11 phone socket, as shown to the right.
The problem is that standard blocks are meant to connect a many-wired outgoing cable, to 25 independent phone lines. For example, the provider's measurement of your distance out will likely be about 2000 feet too high -- merely plugging in the DSL modem may knock 2000 feet off the measurement (thus perhaps bringing you in range).
For example, the phone company may have a 100-pair cable coming down the street, and then fork the whole thing onto two side streets. Probably the Ethernet is going to be 10 Megabit, since that's still way faster than DSL or cable speeds.
Or the provider may catch it and either refuse them, or quietly start charging you extra, or something. It takes the one IP address you have, and forwards messages back and forth between your other machines and the net. Your machine is truly on the net, which is great since you get fast response and no setup time. Your machine sends your IP address to every server you talk to, because the server has to use the address to send anything (like a Web page!) back to you. With this instructable I'll show you how to make a 15m long VGA cable, out of plain ol' CAT5 network cable. You can switch the cables in here if it does make a difference, and you can make a nice box of it when adding a vga connector. Next morning after several attempt of reviving the connection using the old method of removing and inserting the lan cable failed we decided to change the connectors.To my dismay even that failed. Unless you are familiar with this type of work, you may want some assistance making that repair. You are also faced with trying to insulate the single wires from each other, forming a large knot in the area of the cable that was repaired.
If you have a laptop, wireless is handy because you can use it in many airports, hotels, and even Starbucks, via TMobile or other services.
To get a certain speed, every part of the path involved must support it: the type of wire and connectors, workmanship of wiring, Ethernet card, and hub.
You cannot just hook the wires from multiple devices together and have it work -- unless you have only two devices total, and a special "crossover" cable (see below). You can try wiring those two other pairs to an Ethernet connector as shown below and see, but it's unlikely to work.
Not all electricians, carpenters, phone installers, or handypeople know how to do it right. Network wiring, especially for speeds over 10Mbps, is touchy, and it's easy to make bad connections (or worse, wiring that almost or usually works, but fails under stress such as high data rates).
But you'll do more of it than for just adding a new electrical outlet, since for network cabling you can't just shortcut to the nearest one. Any given branch of your network will only work at the speed of the worst-rated part it contains. For a very small installation (say, under 4 drops), you could just buy patch cables with plugs already attached. If you do want to do it this way, you'll need a few extra tools and techniques I'm not going into here other than brief mention below. If (like many) you are tempted to use the "extra" wire in Ethernet cable for telephone lines, see Relation to phone wiring below.
CAT3 wire can handle a 10Mbps net, but nowadays don't bother installing anything less than CAT5e wire, and preferably CAT6.
Shielded is harder to work with, since you need to ground the shield at one end, using more expensive and complicated metal connectors. The downsides include price (from $600 to $1000 per 1000 feet, depending mostly on whether fiber optic cables are included), lower flexibility (physical and in terms of your cable planning), and the fact that you'd have to be very well organized at the place where all the cables come together to hook to Ethernet hubs, video splitters, phone patch panels, and so on (they'll sell you "distribution panels" to help with this).
They also have desktop gadgets that contain a retractable ethernet cable (and some have a power outlet, too).
The latches do tend to catch on everything in sight, so if you will be moving cables around much, the boots are worth it.
Wire an Ethernet plug to some alligator clips and you can use the tester for lots of other things too (but don't try it on live power circuits!). It has the advantage that half of each label is clear, so as you wrap it onto the wire, the clear part covers and protects the written-on part underneath.
It has a mounting for a flashlight on top, but you really should use a laser pointer and quote Arnold Schwarzenegger. If you are doing a lot of connection points, it may save you some wire pulling if you use a separate hub for each floor: weigh your time and the cost of wire, versus the cost of an extra hub(s) and the pain of having to go look at status lights in more than one place when something goes wrong. If you've got more than one floor, consider putting plates directly above each other to save on vertical drilling. I've heard varying stories on which is officially "preferred" when; but B seems more common. Do not pull hard on the wire, stomp it, crimp it, bend, fold, spindle, or otherwise mutilate.
StoneWall Cable sells pre-made cables in multiple colors, with serial numbers printed for you at no extra charge. Depending on the particular socket, you may be cutting the wires to slightly different lengths. Some sockets have a cover that you can put on afterwards; it's not critical, though it's neater and slightly more secure. There will need to be intact outer insulation under the strain relief once the wires are seated.
In reality, make sure the outer insulation extends into the plug, so it catches under the strain-relief when you crimp. If you want to go to even higher speeds eventually and are pulling CAT5e or CAT6 wire, be extremely careful about all these rules. In fact, don't even allow the cable to see pointy objects, or it may get scared and stop working just out of spite. In commercial settings the electrical code probably prohibits just laying the wire on top of a suspended ceiling. I ran some of my network wiring right alongside intercom wiring (since I'd pulled them into place together). Balanced wiring can also use about half as much power in each wire (since you get two copies of the signal); that reduces the field even further. Cat5 and CAT5e Ethernet only use 4 wires, but running 8 will save enormous time the first time a wire fails: you can just switch to another pair. Every individual cable must be consistent (both ends the same) or it won't work; all cables in your installation should be consistent, or you'll get confused.

The blue pair in phone wire is for the primary telephone line, and goes on the same (center) pins. This is very common, and interoperates fine with T568A (as long as each cable is consistent in itself!). Even so, CAT5 wires do not cross over: the same wires go to the same pin numbers at all connectors.
A crossover cable would not work there, because it would add a second crossover, effectively undoing the first one.
This amounts to one end being wired as T568A and the other as T568B; there's probably some interesting history to that.
You can use this to convert a regular Ethernet cable into a crossover (you do have a long regular Ethernet cable in your laptop bag, don't you?).
In that case, you need a "media converter", for example the NetStream CEM0100, or the Transition Networks Ethernet to AUI Media Converter, for about $60-80. A ringing phone line also has 50-90 volts, which seems like it could cause problems when that close to the Ethernet wires. My guess, though, is that recent Ethernet cards include surge protection that is good enough to handle ringer-induced interference as well. What you want is to connect a whole bunch of phones to the same 1 (or maybe 2) phone lines. It will probably support DHCP on your side, so any machine you plug into your net gets assigned an IP address automatically (routers won't generally pass them through, so your internal traffic shouldn't be visible to your provider or neighbors). If you have a fixed-IP-address, it is trivial to trace it to you, unlike a modem connection where your IP address is different on every call, and can only be traced if logs are kept by the ISP.
Thus distributed each took its proper place; He nets the fractious parts in tranquil peace. But now i have a weird refresh rate that makes it hard to watch anything on the television. If you already have CAT-3 telephone wire running to some places, you should be able to get 10Mbps of data through it, which isn't bad. If you're considering a big job, you may want to consider my notes on how to save on drops. On the other hand, you can use "low voltage" boxes that have no back, which might be a little easier.
If you aren't sure you know what you're doing, don't take the risk, just hire a professional (that will also be less stressful, because something unexpected always goes wrong!). It often works fine, but there are no guarantees, and it complicates managing the wires at both ends.
With CAT6 or CAT6+, you can go to 1000Mbps or even higher (however, CAT6+ requires different connectors on the ends). I much prefer modular plates and inserts as shown at right, because you can use them for Ethernet, phone, video, audio, etc.
Routers have dropped greatly in price; they can provide load-balancing and firewall features that hubs don't. You may be able to find similar bits at local hardware outlets, but be sure to get the auger type (with a screw point that pulls the bit ahead) -- I've found the others almost useless, but with my first auger-tipped one it went so fast I had drilled about 8" down into a vertical stud below the sole plate before I realized there was a problem (lucky me to pick exactly that spot to drill).
Carries a huge selection of cable and parts, and some tools, with excellent prices and service.
Carries a wide variety of cabling equipment and parts, for data, telephone, audio, video, etc.
If I'm going to go to much trouble, like fishing wires from basement to attic to wire a second floor, I pull more wires than I need and also leave a string in to pull more later (this also means you drill larger holes). You can easily make the wire no good for 100MB (not to mention 1GB), even with no visible sign of damage. Colored vinyl tape works fine; I prefer enamel paint-pens from the local craft or hobby store. The strain relief is a bit of plastic near the back of the plug that gets crimped down at the same time as the connector pins do (practice on scrap the first time).
If you're doing only a little of this, it's probably not worth buying a higher end tester than that. One day I was using the tone tracer to locate a wire, and heard music through the tone tracer, because it was being played through the intercom system and coupled right across into the Ethernet wires. Untwisting de-couples the pair, and it then radiates an awful lot more energy, thus potentially interfering with other pairs. Not using it in the Ethernet spec makes it less likely that a telephone pair will get patched to an Ethernet pair (where the ringer voltage would probably cause trouble).
Or better, just buy a Mac and it will automatically detect when a crossover is needed, and do the right thing even if you use the wrong cable. For patch cables from a panel to a hub, you may want to buy an assortment of colors so it's easier to see which cable goes where. Totally unlike twisted-pair, with coax you can put a "T" in the middle, which can be nice in certain situations.
I've watched fiber being spliced, but I've never done it, and it looks tricky, so think twice before trying fiber unless you can buy the cable ready-made.
If the router can be inside, that's easy except that you have to walk a long way to reset or troubleshoot it.
However, several people have written to report success sharing wires this way, and none have reported actual problems.
If you're worried, avoid this kind of wiring or add surge protection (such as the Leviton 5952 or the cheaper APC ProtectNet).
You can run it to a second phone jack for a second line, or to the next pair out (pins 2 and 5) of the first phone socket, which I believe is what 2-line phones expect (check their instructions to be sure).
For that you either need an awful lot of jumper wires on a standard block (painful), or a special block. It may help to install the DSL modem right where the line enters the house (in which case, be sure you've run a CAT5 or better line from there to your hub).
The router then uses "IP masquerading" or "Network Address Translation" to rewrite requests from your machines and forward them onto the Internet as if they were its own (and of course to forward the replies back the other way). Linksys makes a similar device that also includes a wireless base station (for slightly more $). A bug in any program you run (knowingly or not) that talks to the net, can expose your entire system to hacking.
There are technologies to increase privacy (such as Avi Rubin's Crowds system); consider using them. In regards to bridging the connections, I found using some bare wire in each terminal 5, 8 and 10 all joined together and then soldering the blue dotted cable the easiest way to bridge the connections. It wasn't easy but we did it and to my horror the outer covering of the cable along with the inner wires was completely chewed off. Instead, builders usually hop from each room to the next with one long wire (to get them to do a star, order "home runs" for all sockets). Companies like CableOrganizer also sell a variety of plastic moldings that you can stick to the wall and run wires through; these can be very nice (but think hard about how you're going to get past doorways). Still, for very simple installations you could just run patch cables, plug in, and be done with it (make sure they can't be stepped on).
If you look closely, you'll notice that each of the 4 pairs has a different number of twists per inch -- the exact number is not as critical as the fact that they're different. 3M Fire Barrier Caulk, Dow Corning Fire Stop Sealant, and Standard Oil Fyre Putty are other products usable for such purposes. If you puncture or badly crimp a wire, just replace the run; don't even think about splicing. After removing the outer cover and any hanging nylon threads, sort the wire ends into the right order for the plug.
Just resign yourself to the possibility of troubleshooting or replacing a wire or two later. Didn't seem to hurt anything, but it made me take the rules about parallel runs more seriously.
It also means you could wire the blue pair to the phone line, and use the very same socket to plug in either phone or Ethernet at different times. On the downside, you have to convert back to twisted pair at each end (most devices don't have coax ethernet connections any more, so it's not practical to do your whole net in coax). Leviton makes a nice block they call a "Bridged Telephone Distribution module", available for example from SmartHomeUSA.
Bridge taps can be detected and located to within a few feet, using standard high-end test equipment. Once the modem is in, you should merely have to plug a crossover cable from it to your hub, and then have the fun of configuring (my FIOS installers were very happy when they asked where to run an Ethernet cable, and I told them to just plug in to the socket next to where they brought the cable in).
I've also heard good reports on an "SMC Broadband router", which also includes modem and printer ports (the latter may save you from spending a lot more to get an Ethernet-equipped printer). This is itself a good reason to put in a DHCP router as just described, and to have good virus protection, kept up-to-date. I want to control may LCD monitor through cutting of one of the pin of D-sub cable and not the Power source.
The entire cable is designed to associate the 2 wires in any pair very closely, and to dissociate them from the other pairs. As far as I can tell, they all work fine, and I haven't been able to determine if there's any difference between CAT5, 5e, and 6 plugs.
If you step up to about $275-350 you can get a tester that can also detect split pairs, measure wire length, ping hubs, verify data sent on the wire, and so on. One item I've only found here is a punch-down block designed for distributing a small number of lines to many extensions each, instead of the usual setup for many lines to one extension each (item 50-44032). You may want to install flexible conduit ("blue pipe") or wire-molding if you anticipate adding wires later. Start with the longest runs first: that way if you do damage a wire, you have a better chance of cutting out the damage and having enough to be useful for a short run (or two) later. Diagonal cutters are the right tool for this, but the wire is thin enough that swiss army knife scissors will work fine.
However, this seems a bit silly when you could just run the blue pair to an adjacent phone socket instead.
You can solve the power problem with "802.3af", which lets you run a little power over a CAT5 cable that also carries data just as usual, using a "power injector" such as the Wifi Shop's Power over Ethernet Adaptor, a hub or router that includes power injection, or do it yourself. It's just a little circuit card with 10 rows of punch-down connectors like on the back of an Ethernet socket. Don't make it to long as it could shortcut when fiddling all the wires in the VGA connector. Right after trimming, use one hand to hold them straight (I keep this hand there from the beginning of the twisting), check the color order again, and use the other hand to slip the plug on. I think it's overpriced at about $25-30, but it will save you a lot of work so it's probably worth it.
If you have more than 9 phone outlets (one row is for the incoming line) just get 2 such panels. You can put them side-by-side or in completely separate locations (like one in basement and one in attic). You don't need any special panel to mount it to -- just screw it to the wall, using a few washers to keep it from actually touching the wall. I don't know whether it needs to be installed, or whether the twisted pairs in the UTP cable should do the job?! A friend discovered his panel shorting out after a few months when he didn't insulate it from the drywall behind it.

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