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Bearded dragons do not require grooming, however, they will enjoy a shower now and then; a light misting with water will also help keep the skin humidified to make it easier to shed.
Bearded dragons should be fed a combination of live bugs and vegetables along with some fruits.
If you provide a large enough home for the beardie it should give itself adequate exercise all on its own. A male and a female dragon should not be kept together until they're at least 2 years old, and then ONLY if you intend to breed. The Inland Bearded Dragon, Pogona vitticeps, is native to eastern continental Australia, but most of the beardies in pet stores are now captive bred. The Material contained herein may not be reproduced without the prior written approval of the author.
With one of the best temperaments of all lizards, they are generally docile, and many seem to actually enjoy being handled. Other housing that is sometimes used are custom wood cages (which can be hard to clean), cages made from molded plastic, which can be pricey but they are lightweight and easy to clean. Vegetables need to make up a significant part of your dragon's diet: 10-25% for hatchlings and juveniles, 30-50% for an adult. Given the proper food and care a bearded dragon can live out its life without facing any problems.
Before the age of two years a female dragon's bones are not developed enough to lose the calcium and pass the eggs easily.
The UV lights gives out very little heat, therefore the end with the UV light will be the cooler end of the tank. They are diurnal (up during the day and sleep at night), which means you can watch them during the day.
A wide variety is the key, however crickets and dark leafy greens should be two of the main choices especially for babies. They will watch your every move, sometimes pacing their tank as if begging for attention and to be fed (they love to eat!). Keeping a baby in a larger area can sometimes cause problems as the baby may have a hard time finding his food, water, basking sites and shelters. The live food consists of commercially-bred crickets, meal worms, wax worms, and juvenile Madagascar hissing cockroaches, which can usually be found in your local pet store. Their spikes make them look like dinosaurs, however, they are usually quite tame and easy to handle.
Other health problems can include mites, internal parasites, respiratory infections, gastroenteric infections, pseudomona, coccidia, egg-binding, partial paralysis associated with hind leg extension. They can even make good pets for children, if properly supervised, and their relatively small size makes them very manageable.

The smallest enclosure for one or two adult bearded dragons is either a 4-foot x 2-foot tank or a 6-foot x 18-inch tank.
Outdoor bugs may have been exposed to pesticides; even if you do not use pesticides, your neighbor might, which may kill your bearded dragon.
If you house several baby bearded dragons together with an inadequate food supply available, they may start to nip each other’s tails or toes and fingers. A single adult should not be kept in a tank smaller than a standard 55-gallon (48-inch x13-inch) tank.
Green vegetables and fruits can be offered in appropriate-sized pieces, usually finely chopped is best. They do not regenerate their tail or their toes or fingers if lost, however infections usually do not result.
A good rule of thumb is to chop veggies and fruits no larger than the space between the dragon’s eyes. A couple of weeks before the dragon is due to lay their eggs a cat litter type tray of bird sand and peat with a piece of bark covering the top should be placed in with the bearded.
Wood chip bedding is not always recommended as the crickets will find places to hide, making it difficult for the beardie to find its food. Leafy greens high in calcium should be offered such as kale, arugula, collard and mustard greens, parsley, dandelion greens and flowers, endives, radish, carrot and turnip tops, escarole and chicory endive. These hiding crickets will then come out during the night hours while your beardie is trying to sleep, harass him and stress him out. Finely chopped squash, corn, peas, carrots (shredded), sweet potato, cucumber, zucchini, green peppers, chard, chopped fruit such as cantaloupe, apple, blueberries, peaches, pears, grapes, plums, raspberries can also be fed. Sand and fine gravel are not only their natural desert bedding but are also easy to keep clean.
Plants from fields and lawns that have not been treated with pesticides and herbicides can be fed as well. Newly hatched dragons should be left in the incubator for a period of 24 hours to allow the yolk sac to be absorbed.
Some types of grass and petals from rose blossoms, hibiscus and calendula can be offered as a treat along with finely chopped fruits such as apples. Some also like to use newspaper or even rabbit pellets or alfalfa pellets, but you must watch so that it doesn't mold if it gets wet. Nor should iceberg lettuce be fed; iceberg lettuce has very little nutrition and may lead to the runs causing dehydration. All food that is offered should be smaller in width than the dragon’s mouth to avoid choking and blockage while digesting.
Crickets and mealworms purchased from the pet store are usually not high in nutrients directly from the pet store.

Some choose to use a heat pad, however beardies like to bask in the sun and a heat lamp provides a good replica of the sun. If you place a rock under the lamp, the lamp will also heat the rock which will also warm up the dragon’s underside. Gutloading means you feed your mealies and crickets a high nutrition diet 24 hours before feeding them to your dragon.
Things such as dark greens, oranges, carrots, potatoes for moisture, and a mixture of baby cereal are some examples of things that should be fed to your crickets and mealies before feeding them to your dragon.
Bearded dragons are primarily desert dwellers, however, they do spend the hottest part of the days in relatively cool areas; as with all desert animals, too much heat can be just as dangerous as too little.
You can also purchase a product called Gutload from the pet store which is loaded with nutrients that will be passed on to your dragon. UV light activates the synthesis of vitamin D3, which is a prerequisite for the absorption of calcium and other minerals from the diet.
Remember that glass filters out virtually ALL of the beneficial UV rays needed by reptiles for vitamin D3 conversion. Always place your fixtures above the tank, preferably on the screen, to allow the light to pass with no filtering! Keep all lighting and fixtures out of the tank to prevent your dragon coming into contact with the hot fixture and possibly causing severe burns. Your lighting cycle should run between 12-14 hours of light per day, and the use of a timer is recommended. If you choose to put your beardie’s cage near a window for a natural source of sunlight, be sure to carefully monitor the temperature!
Beardies are diurnal (up during the day and sleep at night) while crickets tend to be nocturnal. The crickets will hide during the day and come out at night while the beardie is trying to sleep.
It should be in a bowl or dish shallow enough for your lizard to see easily into and drink out of; deeper bowls can be half-sunk into the bedding. Vitamin and mineral supplements can be offered, being careful not to overload them with vitamins but on the other hand providing an adequate amount.

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