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Wood magazine jewelry box woodworking plans index,bookshelves woodworking plans easel,how to build a 24x32 pole barn joinery,garage shelving on ebay - 2016 Feature

27.09.2013 admin
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American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014.
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years.
If you see type A task that you comparable you can download from WOOD Magazine’s project project store by clicking surreptitious compartment jewelry box carpentry over the past xxv years we ve seen hundreds. Of box designs at crafts shows we worked with the artisans to present their prized boxes in WOOD magazine.
I made this jewelry box from the wood magazine plans, using cherry and maple the cherry for the sides is from my parents back yard.
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Using timber with respect to the grain pattern is very important, so select a board with an interesting or unusual grain pattern. I suggest using a fine-toothed dovetail saw cutting a fraction on the waste side of the line (Photo 5). The top, bottom and tray bottom are constructed using 120mm wide and 25mm thick Maple which is cut into 2 pieces 120mm x 10mm thick.
We now need to fit the Cherry edgings that will cover the sawn & planed edges of box and lid. The lid is hinged using quadrant hinges that incorporate a stay to keep the lid in an open position (Photo 76). The inset door panel saint for displaying beautiful wood food grain patterns or colors offers you an opportunity to give this jewelry storage locker that particular await you’re. The bulk of the waste is removed using a router (Photo 6) and the final waste removal is done with a chisel (Photo 7 & 8). To cut the Maple for these components I used a table saw cutting half the width, in 2 stages then turning the timber round and cutting the second half in the same way, (Photos 19 & 20). Using the lengths of the previously prepared Cherry the cross banding can be cut into strips of 15+mm wide. I used a circular saw fitted with a fine blade with narrow saw kerf (3mm) but a tenon saw could also be used.
The mitres on the Cherry edgings can be cut using a sharp knife and if necessary planed with a block plane. Print out the full size detail of the star inlay without the stringing line and using a scalpel carefully cut out all segments of the star. The tray is jointed together using through dovetails and the divisions by stopped housing joints. Download innocent plans and instruction manual for wood projects easy to make this refined box An refined Jewelry Box.
I clamped a stop to the fence of the table saw (Photo 25) and placed 4 strips of Cherry together onto a scrap piece of timber to prevent break out when cutting.

The fence is set to the required distance from the blade, so the saw cut will be in the centre of the lid line we marked on the box (Photo 42). Downloadable Woodworking fancy project to Build vitamin A Gem of a Jewelry Box This plan was built and proven in the Sir Henry Joseph Wood magazine shop away its editors and. First cut a rebate on the ends of the sides equal to the thickness of the ends plus about 1½mm. I then sawed onto a scrap piece of MDF which would reduce the chance of unwanted brake out. When the adhesive has cured, any excess Cherry edging can be removed using a combination of block plane, sharp chisel and abrasive paper (Photo 47). Place each cut out paper segment onto one of these pieces of Cherry (Photo 52) and using a ruler and scalpel carefully cut around the paper template (Photo 53).
Jewelry Box Woodworking Plan endue Project Plan woodwind computer storage elysian in part Beauty Jewelry Box Scrollsawn Barnyard Puzzle Collector’s Magazine Polymer clay mokume gane Oregon Thomas More. Cut one side then rotate the box to cut the end them rotate again to cut next side & so on (Photo 43). Make sure that linings are not too tightly fitted as they will need to be removed to fit the hinges.
Now place the pins onto the ends of the box sides and using a scalpel carefully mark out the tails (Photo 10). When gluing the top and bottom alternate the clamps to ensure even pressure and reduce the chance of bowing (Photo 21) Once the glue has cured the clamps can be removed and the top and bottom cam be cut to size leaving about 2½mm surplus all round. Once the lid had been separated from the box, (Photo 44) the sawn edges need to be planed to remove any saw marks (Photo 45). Use a dovetail saw for cutting these taking care to cut a fraction on the waste side of the line.
The waste material is removed by first cutting the tails on the waste side of the line using a fine toothed dovetail saw taking care not to cut the lap and also cutting the shoulders.
This is also the time to remove any glue that may have squeezed out when gluing the bottom & top.
The waste between the 2 tails can be removed using a piercing or fret saw fitted with a fine blade cutting just above the knife line then a 3mm chisel can be used to remove the final waste timber. Once all the dovetails have been tested the insides of the box can be sanded and the inside of the lid area and small strip on the bottom edge can be lacquered. The bottom does not require a finish, as it will eventually have a felt lining although a narrow band of finish could be applied to outer edges to prevent adhesive sticking to the base where it is not needed. Place the star so that 4 of the points are in line with the centre lines, this will ensure that the star is centrally placed (Photo 55). The remainder of the hinge recess can be removed either using a router or chisel & mallet. Don’t forget to put a paper barrier between the box and clamp block (Photo 32) Once the cross banding has been applied to all faces and cleaned up the rebates can be cut for the Ebony stringing. Offer up the hinge and check that the stay fits into the drilled and cleaned out slot to just over half its height. The waste is removed using a piecing saw cutting about 1mm away from the knife line on the waste side (Photo 65), and then the remainder of the waste is removed using a chisel (Photo 66).

Once all the stringing has been fit to size it can be glued in place using a PVA type glue and held in position using masking tape (Photo 35). Once the tray bottom has been cleaned up and sanded the grooves to take the bottom can be cut into the inside faces of the tray sides.
Once the glue has cured the stringing can be cleaned up using a scraper (Photo 36) followed by abrasive paper. The grooves must be stopped before the ends of the tails so that they don’t show from the outside (Photo 68). After all sides of the box have been cleaned up we can think about cutting the grooves for the 1½mm Ebony stringing that will fit between the Cherry cross banding and the Maple. I covered my glue blocks with paper to reduce the chance of then sticking to box after the glue has cured (Photo 17). Once all the clamps have been fitted the surplus glue can be removed from the inside of the box. Cut one mitre on one end of each piece then place the mitred end in a corner and mark out the opposite end. The star can now be glued and clamped between some flat scrap MDF with a paper barrier between the inlay and the MDF.
Fill grooves with adhesive, I used Titebond for this, and use the flat end of a pin hammer to carefully push the stringing into the bottom of the groove. Make a note of the dimension from the centre division to the sides; this will be the measurement between the shoulders of the 4 short divisions. These are cut using a router fitted with 1.5mm cutter and are cut to a depth of a little less than the thickness of the Ebony stringing. Clamp a straight edge to the box lid so the cutter will cut equally into both the Cherry and Maple (Photo 60). Prepare some glue blocks and dry assemble and clamp the tray to confirm that it all goes together as it should.
It will conceal any gaps there may be between the top and sides of the lid it will also provide a contrast detail when the lid is open. Before gluing in place the lacquer needs to be removed where the stringing will go so the adhesive has a good surface to bond to. Cut a number of thin pieces of timber that will fit between the stringing in order to apply pressure while the adhesive is curing (Photo 63). Cut the board and baize for the compartment bottoms first, cut these oversize and apply adhesive to one surface then the baize. The baize for these needs to be double the width of the card as these will be covered on both sides (Photo 74). The process is repeated for the large compartment without divisions at the bottom of the box.

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