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World Flooring and More is dedicated to improve the quality of your stairs and raise your property value through professional hardwood staircase installation, refinishing staining and repairs. This entry was posted in Uncategorized and tagged hardwood stairs, hardwood stairs chicago, hardwood stairs oak lawn, refinishing stairs, refinishing stairs Chicago, refinishing stairs oak Lawn, stairs installation, stairs installation chicago, stairs installation oak lawn, wood stairs, wood stairs Chicago, wood stairs oak lawn. July 3, 2013 By Angela Long Nothing is more of a pain than having to repair something damaged by water. SPONSOR FOCUS: Do you have smoke damage, fire damage, water damage, wind damage or even mold remediation issues in your home or business? As temperatures and humidity levels in your home vary, wood flooring will expand and shrink in its width and thickness. At Ayers Basement Systems, we can provide a variety of solutions to help you upkeep your home's flooring, preserving its value, beauty, and functionality for years to come. Meet with one of our professionals at Ayers Basement Systems to see what we can do for you; we're ready to help!
Cupping occurs in wood floors when the edges of the boards are higher and the center is low. When wood floors are placed directly on top of concrete with no vapor barrier installed underneath, humidity will pass through the porous concrete and saturate the wood.
If you like the beauty of wood but don't want to worry about the hassle, consider wood laminate flooring. Sometimes, a contractor will sand and repair a cupping wood floor before the moisture content has returned to normal.
This kind of flooring problem is sometimes caused by moisture imbalances in the wood, but it's much more common to see this occur as the result of the improper repair of cupping wood floors. One of the best ways to repair hardwood floors that have shown signs of buckling is to simply dry them out.
Repairs may still be possible even in extreme cases where the wood is buckling several inches above its original position.
If your floorboards are not buckling, but instead the entire floor itself is sagging, then you may have an entirely different problem. In some cases, your home may not have been designed with enough crawl space supports to properly bear the weight of your home. Installing adjustable steel crawl space jack posts can address crawl space structural issues. Crawl spaces showing signs of structural damage due to mold rot or mold problems should also be encapsulated This will help to halt the damage and prevent further issues. Our services include providing homeowners with crawl space repair, energy efficient dehumidifiers, and interlocking sub floor tiles that will create a moisture barrier on your concrete slab floor.
For a free quote for these or any of our services, call or e-mail us today to schedule your appointment! We proudly serve the Michigan area, including Grand Rapids, Kalamazoo, Lansing, Jackson, Muskegon, Battle Creek, Traverse City, Niles, Alpena, Mount Pleasant, and nearby. An example of rotten wood we tore out during the reinstallation of a deck in Kingwood Texas.
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Step 2Here we have ready the two-part epoxy putty filler and two blades for smoothing the putty in the damaged area.
Step 3Here we've cut out equal amounts of the putty and hardener in preparation to mix them. Step 4Because this putty is too firm to mix with a spoon or tool, we instead kneaded the two parts together by hand until the color was uniform.
Step 5Work the material into the damaged area, smoothing with the putty knife or straight edge. Ultimately we had to press small amounts into some areas by finger pressure to fill sections that pulled out with the tool. Step 6Here we've just about finished sanding the patched area flat and smooth after the putty dried, using a standard belt sander with a medium grit paper. Unfortunately, this epoxy product does not allow thinning with a solvent, so it is difficult to achieve a thin skin coat for final smoothing. WOOD FLOOR DAMAGE REPAIR - CONTENTS: Catalog of types of damage to different wood floor materials.
We illustrate buckling wood floors and comment on how they happen; we illustrate cupping of wood flooring and point out the diagnostic value of noticing which way the cup is shaped.
Our photo at page top shows cupped wooden strip flooring and an easy way to detect this condition.. This 1940's wood floor buckled severely because of wet conditions in a gymnasium after the roof leaked.
But even if a building is not subjected to flooding or wet floors, if the wood floor was installed without adequate clearance around its perimeter buckling can occur when moisture increases in the building. Compare our photo at left of concave (curved down) cupped wooden floorboards with the convex (curved up) cupped floor boards in the photo at the top of this page. At left you can easily see the concave cupping of the floor at left by looking at our flashlight beam across boards in the upper portion of the photo. Diagnosing why a wooden floor has become cupped is an important step in correcting the problem, since we need to identify and correct the moisture source.
If the floor board cupping is minor and hard to see, you might decide to just address the moisture problem and leave the floor alone.
Indoors we find that floor boards tend to cup so that the concave side of the board is towards the floor's more dry side, and the convex side of the cupped or curved boards tend to be facing the floor's more wet side. You might think that outdoors where despite temporary wetting from rain, deck boards and wood step boards open to air on both sides ultimately have a uniform moisture content across the board's thickness. Look at the end-grain of any deck, ramp, or wooden walkway board and notice the curved lines that mark the winter wood layers of the tree from which the board was cut. But look at your actual individual boards or stair treads when you are building an outdoor structure. Shelling is reported to occur more often in lumber made from Douglas Fir and Southern Pine.
Shelling may be less of a problem with wood trim that is to be placed vertically and kept painted or sealed. Gaps between wood floorboards may occur for several reasons, but the common underlying cause is a moisture problem. Installing wood flooring before it has had an opportunity to acclimate to the indoor moisture level of its new home often means that too-moist flooring was nailed in place, later shrinking as building heat further dries the wood.
The gap between the flooring shown at left is viewed from the under-side of the floor of an older building.
Gaps can also appear between sections of a wood parquet floor, as shown in our photo (left). If you fill the gap between floor boards in the dry (wide gap) season, when the building moisture increases and boards swell the swelling floor boards will push against the gap filling material, actually crushing the edges of the floor board. At Wood Floor Types where we illustrate a restored and re-finished wide-board floor in an 1860's home, if you click and enlarge the photo you'll see that we left the flooring gaps open. A common complaint we've investigated is shrinkage gaps in wood flooring installed over radiant heat tubing. The underlying cause may be flooring that was too moist at installation (see above), or operating the heat at a higher than recommended temperature. In the gapped wood floor over radiant tubing shown here, the owner, attempting to eliminate a smell associated with the radiant heat tubing, ran the heating system at high temperature, perhaps contributing to this floor gap problem. The floors I need help with have loose boards, gap at the top step tread and the house doesn't have air conditioning. By 1939 many homes had wood floors installed over wood subfloor - the way to find out is to examine both sides of the floor, but one can also often infer or guess or discover the floor structure just from the top surface by noticing the floor type (wideboard vs. I would not fill gaps in wood flooring with sawdust and oil nor anything else, both because I'm uncertain about odor and fire safety issues from the mixture you describe and because gaps in wood floors vary in width seasonally as temperatures and moisture change.
Filling gaps between wood floor boards invites later buckling or causes further compression of the edges of boards when they next expand.
You can see that's what's been happening with the putty-filled wood floor gaps in photo at left. Squeaky wood floors are caused by movement in one or more boards that rub together as you walk over them or as building temperatures and moisture level change. Ideally we repair loose wood flooring by screwing up or nailing-up from beneath the floor, through the subflooring or best on an angle through the floor joists, through the subfloor (if present) and into the bottom of the finish flooring above. Nick, at LOOSE NOISY FLOOR REPAIR I've collected a complete set of steps for repairing loose or noisy wood flooring working from above or from below depending on the situation. On a hardwood floor with plenty of wood thickness and deep damage we might use a power sander along with an edger. On an antique (often soft-wood) floor like the one shown at left we use a combination of sharp hand scrapers and hand sanding. See MOLD CLEANUP - WOOD FLOORING where we describe removing mold from wood flooring surfaces. The owner of a building wants to know why this room smells from maple syrup, the odor is stronger when humidity is high, the wood is maple wood and those blotches seen is not understood, ita€™s a 100 year old building. I have not come across mold that smells like maple syrup, though consumption of fenugreek as well as other sources have been associated with that odor in buildings.


The stains on the floor look to me like a mix of wood rot and fungal damage that may have been sanded (without repair) and even re-finished. It's no surprise that a 100 year old building may have had heating system leaks or other leaks into the floor cavity and floor rot (wood rot is itself a fungal and bacterial action). The pattern of the light yellow material is very strongly suggestive of having filled gaps and areas of rot or other damage with a wood filler product that was then sanded.
The pattern of the dark stains could be rot left in place, or other damage at which the surface was concave and not sanded off during floor re-finishing. I speculate that this is a water-damaged, rotted floor that was sanded and re-finished without pulling up damaged flooring and without cleaning the area below. We have had some wood floor stain removal success by careful, by-hand bleaching combined with sanding, followed by careful blending of hand-mixed wood stain products to return the color of the wood floor section to that of its neighbors.
Nail & moisture stains on wood floors - Where small black stains developed in a wood floor in a 1920's bungalow that we restored (our lab and office) we had great success by combining sanding with spot bleach using a Q-tip to lighten the black spots where in prior years moisture had caused bleed and corrosion staining around those fasteners.
Here is a long strip solid oak wood floor that's shows ugly but fairly superficial scratches. But an alternative to try first is thorough cleaning, perhaps buffing with steel wool, followed by application of a sealant and finish coating. It's usually a better practice to repair a floor with the least aggressive means possible, preserving the material for a longer life.
If you are concerned about mold-contaminated wood flooring, see MOLD CLEANUP - WOOD FLOORING.
Continue reading at FLOOR, WOOD MOISTURE or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. Doug, yes but you'll need adequate fire and heat protection between the stove and the floor as well as protection for all surrounding surfaces. The damage to the wood floor is cupping and there has been damage to the wall in the vicinity of the source water valve where the defective plastic part was installed. In order to absolutely assure our readers that we write and report without bias we do not sell any products nor do we have any business or financial relationships that could create such conflicts of interest.
InspectAPedia is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information for the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website. For one this trailer nothing is straight he did all the add on's himself and the trailer sits off the ground on center blocks no slab I believe . If the floor is salvageable one might fix the problem by removing baseboard trim around the floor perimeter removing and cutting down the perimeter boards, and reinstalling them.
If the floor is badly buckled such that the clip-together grooves and tongues on the individual boards are damaged, it's probably not repairable. Try scraping or scrubbing the white area gently with a green 3M scrubby sponge - if it is easy to remoe you can probably clean off what is a surface deposit.
If, as I suspect, floor finish was placed over humid boards, the moisture bloom is underneath the coating and the fix would involve sanding and re-finishing as well as checking that there's no ongoing moisture problem.
I do not want the cat to go back to the same spot and pee again after I have put new flooring down. I'd seal the whole area with a clear sealant or polyurethane before installing the new tile.
The tile mastic and polyurethane odor won't smell that great to the cat and will be discouraging to him or her. Finally, If it won't be a trip hazard I'd leave a few mothballs in the area for a few months after the job is complete. I have been pulling up the wall to wall carpet in sections, cleaning the area, then applying three coats of the Kilz paint. Four days of water on the floor means I'd be worried about where water went, whether there was water in the lower portion of building walls, under cabinets, in the floor cavity - all areas of possible mold contamination if that was the case. WATCH OUT: I WOULD NOT put down new flooring before I was darn sure of no hidden water damage, lest we have to later rip up the new floor. Also told that we should rip up the closet floors instead as these were impossible to find being from decades ago.
Only if something were spilled or there were a burst pipe that flooded the floor or flooded beneath floor would I expect the major floor buckling that you describe. Or if the floor has been removed ,possibly a detailed examination of instalation photos might suggest the cause. With due to your floor contractors (who may have a conflict of interest), sanding or finishing a floor would not itself be expected to cause floor buckling. Buckling wood floors usually are the result of either or both of the reasons I listed below. Try a more experienced flooring contractor or see our Expert Directories link at the top of any InspectApedia page and talk with some home inspectors in you area about their familiarity with floor defect.
Regarding the installing of deck boards bark side down or bark side up, your article seems to recommend both ways.
But having built quite a few decks and other outdoor structures using deck boards and treads, I was compelled to add that it makes perfect sense to *look* at the board you're about to use.
If the board is already cupped, put the concave side down and the convex side up for better drainage.
It sounds as if someone needs to take a look under the home to see if there is a leak, structural movement, damage, etc - let me know what you're told. Watch out: adding stain to try to cover up the scratches in a wood floor or on wooden stairs may give surprising and unhappy results. Use the email found at the CONTACT link at page top or bottom to send us some photos for comment.
I have nail down oak hardwood floors that I had installed after we built our home with a national builder. That was in July, it is now December and they still haven't got it right and yes, we are still in a hotel. But not to worry, provided the flooring was finished and the coatings fully dry, it's easy to clean up drywall dust.
IF the flooring were not finished then some careful washing and scrubbing AND DRYING will be needed before the floors can be finished. If you're extra sensitive to dust, finish with HEPA vacuuming all surfaces and don't bring in any carpets, drapes, or similar soft goods. America's Favorite Homes, mail-order catalogues as a guide to popular early 20th-century houses, Robert Schweitzer, Michael W.R. Asbestos products and their history and use in various building materials such as asphalt and vinyl flooring includes discussion which draws on Asbestos, Its Industrial Applications, D.V. What roles did community planning, zoning, and interior design play in how neighborhoods worked? Pergo AB, division of Perstorp AB, is a Swedish manufacturer or modern laminate flooring products. Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. ASHRAE resource on dew point and wall condensation - see the ASHRAE Fundamentals Handbook, available in many libraries.
The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. We design, build and install steps, railing and stairs for homes, businesses and commercial sites.
Checkout this article about water damaged dryall for busy homeowners that could be of interest to you. Cupping floors are a sign that the moisture levels in the wood are uneven from top to bottom.
If the first floor of your home is built over a humid crawl space or basement, that could also contribute to a cupping floor problem significantly. No two pieces of wood are alike; it expands and contracts with moisture, temperature, and humidity. Wood laminate flooring resists damage from water and humidity, will not expand and contract from temperatures as drastically as wood does, and it will not rot and is more resistant to burning. However, as the wood dries out and returns to its original shape, the sanding will result in crowning wood. This is because the outer "bark side" of lumber will swell more than the side of the lumber closest to the heart of the tree. First, one must eliminate the source of water, and remove several floorboards to allow air to circulate and dry out the space. Sinking crawl space jack commonly occur when your supports are built on weak or insufficient supporting soils. These steel crawl space jacks posts can be installed in your home quickly--usually within a day. Your Hardwood floor can be walked on immediately after repair and there is no need to weigh down the repaired area. We want to expand on our previous article for installing wood stair railing by providing some great resources for building solid stairs and repairing broken railings and wobbly newel posts.
Most two-part putties use equal amounts, but be sure to follow the instructions of the product you're using. But because the upper board surface is exposed to sun and in some cases more wind or air movement, the under-side of boards may have a higher moisture content. When building an outdoor deck wooden stair tread, it is a good idea to avoid using boards with questionable, likely to separate, portions of their upper surface. Particularly in the case of wideboard flooring the width of individual boards increases and decreases seasonally as building indoor moisture levels increase (typically in the summer) or decrease (typically in winter).
In fact during restoration we sometimes have to pick out putty or other stupid crack fillers that someone has applied earlier.


In my opinion sanding an antique or historic floor dead flat produces a weird and inappropriate finish. If you cana€™t make the connection with the information provided what testing do you recommend?
Sweet odors have also been traced to bedbug infestations or cockroach infestations (NYC DOH).
I add that without an onsite inspection or a physical sample of the light yellow material seen in the flooring gaps I can't say if the material is fungal remains or wood filler (perhaps used to fill in worse rot areas). It's not unheard-of to come across a floor that was re-finished by sanding over rot, filling a few bad spots with wood putty, and coating the new floor. After sanding we sat with a Q-tip and a damp cloth, dabbing and bleaching black spots, wiping and washing off the bleach when the stain was light enough - thus avoiding over-bleaching the floor.
To make this 1970's strip oak wood floor look perfect, sanding and re-finishing may be necessary. Often superficial scratches in a wood floor disappear from view when the scratched finish coating is restored. If it's sticky and the finish doesn't dry properly it may have to be removed, the surface cleaned, and then you'll start over. I failed to mention the Viking Refrigerator was installed when the home was new, 2002, what about the defective installation, possibly resulting from the defective plastic adapter used to connect the Refrig Icemaker, it clearly near fractured in half and the leak was occurring over a long period of time and damaged the wall at the faucet and adjacent cab as well as obviously seep under the wood floor.??Opionion?? Under the padding I found that the original flooring is parquet wood flooring from the 1970's. Also is it true that if I paint the parquets floor with Kilz mold resistant paint, it will prevent the cat urine odor from being detected?
Replacing bad flooring, sealing the new surface, are good steps, though if there is even the smallest remaining cat-peed material the cat will find that area attractive for a new visit. I'm unclear on how repair or refinishing a floor would cause later buckling unless the procedure trapped moisture below OR the repair job failed to leav free expansion space around the floor perimeter.
Understanding how your home is constructed, where moisture may be coming from, and exactly what clearance spaces were given when the floor was installed would be helpful. Sometimes the more raw or bare wood at the scratches absorbs more stain pigment, leaving dark marks where the scratches are. I am starting to see very tiny brown spots in a cluster in several areas what could be the cause. I suspect there are gouging from sanding with a circular sander that didn't show up until stain was applied. They have managed to get drywall dust imbedded in our floors and they are balking at our repair bill (screen and recoat) from our original vendor for the floors. Typically a smart renovation contractor puts down a protective layer over a good floor surface before beginning other demolition and repair - or expects to have to re-finish the floors afterwards.
FPL, Forest Products Laboratory, Wood Handbook - Wood as an engineering material", 1999, Gen.
The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.
Please call us at 773-366-1958 for a FREE no-obligation in-home consultation and price estimate ABSOLUTELY FREE. This happens specifically when the wood is wetter on the bottom of the board than on the top.
However, the most common cause of cupping wood floors is due to humidity being trapped in the wood from below. They will not only stop your floor from sinking but you can also adjust them to return your floor to its original position. To preserve your wood flooring through proper moisture management in your home, or you'd like a waterproof solution for your floor, we have just what you're looking for! The DriTac Repair Kit Adhesive is very easy to clean-up with the use of just a simple damp cloth. After two coats of bottom paint, the patch was not visible.Depending on the finish to be added over the patched area, you might in some cases want to use a second, thinner application of the putty to achieve a perfectly smooth surface for a better appearance with a glossy finish. We find this condition in homes with finished wood flooring installed over a damp or wet basement or crawl space. In either case, it's better to just vacuum out the dust and debris and leave these wideboard floor gaps alone. Would subflooring have been laid this long ago and is that why there are loose boards and is very squeaky in places? If the building is framed with cavity walls (not solid masonry) and more if occupants have noticed bees in the area I'd look for a bees nest independent of the apparent rot and fungal decay marks on the floor. A close visual inspection that shows that these discolorations were sanded flush and coated-over would argue convincingly for this history.
We mixed wood stain products to bring the color of the stained-bleached spots back to the surrounding flooring. But there are indeed some products such as some by MinWax that combine a stain with the finish coating - you could be fine. Website content contributors, even if it's just a small correction, are cited, quoted, and linked-to from the appropriate additional web pages and articles - which benefits us both. Keep in mind my son was not staying with me at the time I noticed this , the buckling goes in a straight horizontal line through out the trailer. I think the land lord did not install the flooring correctly which resulted in the buckling from the humidity and the stress of them moving out and us moving in .. But there are a few spots where the wood seemed okay, but even with three coats of Kilz paint I keep getting this light yellowish brownish stain that is pulling through the Kilz paint.
It had beautiful parquet floors that were scratched, few loose tiles, and water damage in a few corners. You drawing illustrates what will happen with flat sawn lumber when installed the wrong way, bark side up and a cup is formed that collects water. We found and cite expert research that documents which way boards tend to cup - which would argue for bark side down as you suggest.
If it was long after the original finish treatment then I'd agree that these spots are probably due to something that's happened since. When we stand in front of the sink in the hall bathroom in the winter, our feet hurt from the heat. My question is, once the floors are finished, can dust damage the integrity of the finish and truly imbed into the wood.
The Manufactured Home Owners Association of America is a National Organization dedicated to the protection of the rights of all people living in Manufactured Housing in the United States. As the wood expands with moisture, the boards are crushed against each other, causing the edges to lift upwards.
Sanding the floor flat is an option unless the boards have not only cupped but come loose from the subfloor.
Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone. My landlord is trying to say it is due to my 13 yr old and 8 yr old( which together may weight 175 lbs) from them moving around are playing . If you use an expanding polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue, the combination of that expansion + screwing will quiet down most troublesome boards. However, there are a couple spots around the edges by the wall where the damage looks pretty bad; the wood looks moldy and rotten.
IF the mastic was water soluble it is then pretty reasonable to scrape it up, clean the surface and start anew.
We were told that it was in the Brazilian cherry family when we were searching for replacement tiles. The repair part of the job only involved glueing back down the loose tiles and replacing the water damaged tiles. I own my mobile and I am a widow and did not want someone telling me some off the wall solution.
71-78, Association for Preservation Technology International (APT), available online at JSTOR. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. It is not wet, and I waited for the floor to be completely dry before I started painting as well as in between each coat. We've asked professionals who have stated that engineered hardwood was our only choice under those circumstances.
A In 1993, the Council became part of the School of Architecture, and since then has been known as the School of Architecture-Building Research Council.
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. The Council's researchers answered many critical questions that would affect the quality of the nation's housing stock. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.




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Comments

  1. LorD writes:
    Same principle of what fits me, I set broad roll up doors on each.
  2. karizmati4ka1 writes:
    These bolts have wooden screw threads shelf helps; four supports.