Garden sheds cape town




Woodshop storage,keter shed base ideas,12 x 20 wood shed designs - Reviews

03.04.2014 admin
While there is no internet available at the shop, there are a lot of books about classic Windsor chair making, primitive woodworking, etc. Timothy’s background includes stints at This Old House, ELLE DECOR, Metropolitan Home and Woman’s Day. TrendsRoom & Board Colors by Valspar – New Paint Collaboration Wagner FLEXiO 890 Sprayer Review Save Your Deck or Concrete Patio with Olympic Rescue It! How-To2016 Kitchen Trends Kitchen Countertop Pricing and Materials Guide An Evening in the Kitchen with Miele June Oven 6 Benefits of Custom Cabinetry What’s the Difference Between a Range, Stove and Cooktop? For a guy known as the Shop Monkey, you’d think that I would have had enough of animals in my shop.
Fortunately, I have developed a straightforward plan to help keep the weasels under control. For smaller, easier to conceal items such as delicate screws for a set of hinges or your router base, take a tip from another vocation that deals with weasels on a day-to-day basis. The last step I use to keep the weasels away is to clean up the wood shavings and sawdust that build up near the bench.
Heya – love the site and a note of encouragement for the monkey and weasel props (Guests, Intruders, Residents?). This project is held together with #20 biscuits, so mark their locations and cut slots for them. This is the step in which things have to go smoothly, or there’s a big mess to deal with. Next, apply glue to the slots in the other side and the slots in the other ends of the shelves.
Sand the panels and the inside edges of the frames with 120-grit sandpaper, then dry-fit the door parts to make sure they come together properly. The easiest way to fit the doors is to lay the cabinet on its back, and then place the doors in position. Once the doors are hung, final fitting is done with a sharp block plane to create an even gap around the doors, and to make sure the two doors don’t collide with each other in the centre. I bought some V-groove, knotty pine panelling for the back slats, the kind that comes shrink-wrapped at building-supply outlets everywhere.
It takes about five feet of crown moulding to cover the top of the project, and I installed it a little differently than the usual method. Drill and install your drawer and door hardware, then give everything a final sanding before cleaning up the shop and getting out the finishing supplies. I chose to stain this cabinet with the old classic, Minwax Puritan Pine, followed by one coat of Minwax Wipe-On Poly.
Use Flickriver Badge Creator to create a badge linking to your photos, your group or any other Flickriver view. Flickriver widget for iGoogle or Netvibes can display almost any Flickriver view - most interesting today, by user, by group, by tag etc. While viewing any Flickr photos page, click on this button to open the same view on Flickriver. A Greasemonkey script that adds Flickriver links to various Flickr photo pages - user photos, favorites, pools etc, allowing to quickly open the corresponding Flickriver view. While viewing any Flickr photos page, click on the bookmarklet to open the same view on Flickriver. When you look at someone else’s shop, you can’t help but to think of improvements they could make.  But what would you say about your own shop? My main dust collector for the filter bag upgrade, with 6” diameter duct riser, which splits into two 5” diameter main ducts. Here you can see the duct drop to the floor sweep, and the branch on the right side is the 25 ft. A central, high-powered 3-5 Hp cyclone collector (or single-stage with professional-grade filter bags) that you pre-duct to all your machines with 16 oz. This floorsweep allows me to use a broom and sweep large piles of sawdust to this location to send it to oblivion. If I take air from two locations in one tool, the airflow needed will go up, and for my table saw probably around 800 cfm at minimum. Here’s a collection of accessories, including a swivel connection, hose clamps, duct hangers, foil tape (makes a perfect seal), and a roll of metal strapping. I walk in the shop after a snack or after watching Rough Cut, reach for the keychain remote and clip it on my belt loop, then grab a stack of boards that need jointing.
The only thing wrong with this picture is that I have to manually open and close the blastgate at each machine (I could leave a few open at one time but I like to maximize suction at the one I’m using since I don’t have a million horsepower cyclone). In future blog posts, I’ll dive into more detail about things like accessories, air cleaners, and detailed design (like how to calculate your duct sizes) but here’s an overview of things that you shouldn’t forget about when sitting down to design your dust collection.  For more info, go to the Dust Collection Resource Page as well. For the seams in the straight duct, elbows, and blastgates, you’ll need to brush on duct sealant.
Chip separators use a cyclone action to collect the largest particles and chips, and only the smaller dust particles make it to your collector bag. When you’re done with your planning, note the lengths of each duct so you can buy it.
But that was it, I bought those things, didn’t spend as much $ as I feared, and now I have a pretty good system that I can keep upgrading!
Here’s my Dust Collection Design that I did in AutoCad, a free PDF download for your reference to help you design your shop! Connect with me on Facebook, and follow me on Twitter for more ninja tips to Optimize Your Woodshop! Enter your name and email below to get your free copy of this organized and detailed checklist to jump-start your woodshop design today!
Also, you’ll get weekly WoodChip Tips, design ideas, free useful downloads, free mini-courses, and other cool stuff in The Other Side of Zero newsletter! The main problems we face from customer site after installation of these furnaces are dust. So my questions are: does this approach suggest that I need a very high powered dust collector? Last question: since I will move the hose from machine to machine manually, what’s the best way to connect to the (reducers attaching to the) built in outlets on the equipment?
The more CFM you get the greater distance you can collect the fine dust; the suction distance drops radically with distance, meaning you need much more CFM the further away you want to draw in dust. Now if I had the DC-650, I might look at centralizing the collector and radially distributing ductwork to each tool, though that compromises your layout. Or, depending on your basement shop’s layout, you could located the CFM-hungry machines together and use the collector to duct locally to those, and use a shop vac for portable sanders, routers, etc. The chip separator does cause a pressure drop, decreasing the CFM you get out of the collector, so I tend not to use it since I just empty the bottom bag on my collector.
With your collector in the attic, a chip separator may add convenience for emptying, if located at ground level or maybe on a reachable shelf in. I have my mains split into 2 runs, so if you do the same, one main can pick up the heavy-chip machines, and the other main can pick up the rest. I just redoing a shop and really have questions on drawing every line up, instead of across the wall at the level of the collector. For my ductwork, I did go to Lowes for the straight duct, but for the elbows I had to go online to Penn State Industries or Oneida to get the long-radius elbows.
As far as ducts collapsing, with my system I use straight duct around 30 ga and don’t have any problems with only one blastgate open. I’ve seen CFM charts online if you Google CFM Requirements Woodworking or something like that. My wife persuaded me to get a saw dust collection unit for my workshop which gives me a great opportunity to re-organise the entire workshop and contents around the new dust collector unit.
Attach the second-floor rim joists in the same way as the first-floor version, using deck screws initially, ensuring that everything is level and square.
The walls keep the second storey safe and are as simple as they come, built by stacking 2x6s one on top of the other, edge to edge, giving the playhouse a log-cabin look.
The side walls are built a little differently because they don’t extend all the way to the front of the playhouse. Unlike the side and back walls, the two short walls flanking the front door sit on top of the floorboards. If you’re making a window in the front gable end, as I did, cut the opening now and screw the boards together at their angled ends. If you didn’t have help with this project so far, you’ll need some now to put the roof together.
Add a bit more support by attaching a 2×6 that overlaps the uppermost back wall board and the bottom board of the back gable end and sits on top of the back 4x4s. To make the playhouse look better and to strengthen the walls, I added frames around many of the window openings. The rectangular window’s side frame members are butted between the top and bottom pieces, with everything held in place with screws driven from the inside faces of the frames into the end-grain of the wall boards.
I finished everything with a cedar-coloured stain before attaching any extras, such as handles and a steering wheel. Universal Wall Cabinet Woodworking Plan, Shop Utility Cabinet System for your Basement or Garage. Welcome!  I’m Bobby, the person behind this site.  I’m 37, and a woodworker in Southern California who is lucky enough to own a 3-car garage workshop that happens to be attached to a house.
My goal is to be as helpful as possible so you can have an awesome shop experience every day.
I will share as much as I know and learn through my blog articles, my actual designs you can use as an example, projects, photos, diagrams, checklists and tool reviews to give you valuable insight and guidance for your shop evolution.
Having gone through the design process myself, combined with my other experiences (like mechanical engineering) lets me offer you ways to totally transform your shop to naturally fit your needs and habits, yet remain flexible for future changes and growth.  Now you can learn The Art of Woodshop Design. Ok now I was missing a router table.  Another two months and one more budget-spreadsheet “authorization” later, I found myself designing a router table cabinet. With these two tools as the heart of my “shop” in my apartment (along with shoe boxes of hand tools) I began to make small furniture for myself and my closest friends.  In my bedroom. Yep, I had a shower curtain slung from the ceiling around my bed and a dust buster as my “dust collection”.
This shop layout went through many changes–I marked up and revised my first design attempt as I went through the actual workflow. I’m first interested in ideas on building type, considering cost and layout flexibility and your experience and considerations.

After a couple of projects are out of the way, I plan use your advice and remove everything from the shop and then put everyhing back in an organized way.
How I went from a cluttered and disorganized shop to a super-productive layout with a convenient dust collection and electrical set-up.
WOODSHOP SAFETY MANUALSafety Rules for Jointer The jointer is one of the MOST DANGEROUS machines in the woodshop. Building A 5-String BanjoI spent a great deal of time researching before I actually drew my own plans.
I used antique pine for the bottom because it was cheaper than cherry (a detail which isn’t out of place in antique dry sinks for the same reason). The sink bottom has tenons on the ends which fit into the side stiles and a rabbet on the back edge which fits into a dado in the rear rail. Begin the final assembly by bringing the case sides together with the bottom panel, sink bottom and door divider.
From John Lewis’ old-time woodshop in Brighton, CO, he teaches hand-made chair making and builds furniture in the primitive style from reclaimed materials. Renovations consisted mainly of the addition of an 1890’s base burner stove, some insulation, and patching enough holes to keep the sparrows out. He has a great collection of 1800s to early 1900s spoke shaves, hand drills, block planes, lathe tools, etc. While life in the late 1800s was far from paradise, we can at least look to the parts that maybe we shouldn’t have forgotten, the parts that our culture misses without realizing why. From the simple lanyard type safety glass retainers which allow you to hang them around your neck to advanced router bit and saw blade organizing cases to protect and organize your cutting investment, there are dozens of ways you can deter weasel mayhem. You’d be surprised how efficiently the weasels can camouflage themselves in that stuff, waiting for an important piece to fall off the bench. My little girl sends me to work with a stuffed animal every day (so I don’t get lonely) and I appreciate seeing their fuzzy brethren here.
Cut these parts to rough size, leaving two or three inches of extra length before dressing them to finished thickness. Before you begin, check that both sides are exactly the same length and that you have the front edge of each side clearly identified. This last mark locates the bottom edge of the bottom shelf, leaving 30″ to the bottom of the sides.
Rout from the top down to the middle of the bottom shelf position, the place where the back slats stop. Having just dry-fitted and labelled all the parts, make sure you have the necessary clamps on hand, pre-adjusted.
Butter up more biscuits to fill these slots, nestle the second side in place, and then clamp everything together while making sure that the back edges of the shelves line up correctly with the sides. Since this groove is made to accept the door panels, you may need to tweak the dado width depending on the stock you’re using. This is a great time to prefinish the panels so they don’t show any unfinished areas if dry weather causes them to shrink. Start by sanding the crown by hand with 180-grit paper to get rid of the mill glaze and planer marks, then cut a triangular filler piece for behind the crown. Once added to your personalized homepage, just edit widget settings to select your desired view. By first drawing a plan, then picking up all the materials, I put it all together assembly-line style.
I added a metal mesh screen here to prevent larger objects from hitting the impeller of the collector. Also, shop vacuums are loud due to their universal motors, and fill up quickly unless you have a small $100 cyclone chip separator such as the Dust Deputy. An upgrade that I’m considering is using a cyclone type central collector with 1-micron filtration, or a more powerful single-stage 3-5 hp model with a much larger 16 oz. Here at the router table I collect dust and chips from both underneath the router and from the cutterhead itself. Then I open the jointer’s blastgate (sometimes closing the one that’s open first), hit the “ON” button on the remote, and start jointing.
Before doing that I close the blastgate on the jointer, then go to the planer and open that blastgate. If you think you have enough airflow because all the chips are being picked up, you might be missing the finer dust that you can’t see. Static Pressure) to see what the predicted airflow is.  Also look at your largest CFM-requiring tool and check that the static losses from the machine back to the collector results in enough CFM and air velocity. Then make a list of how many of each size elbows you need, wye fittings, duct size transitions, how many blastgates, etc. We are one of the leading manufacturers of Steel melting Induction furnace starting from 5kgs to 60tons capacity.
We are ready to take this type of solution from your company if you have readymade solution of this problem. I’m not sure whether this submit is written by him as no one else recognise such targeted about my trouble. Measure 41″ up from the top of the first-floor joists to mark the bottom of where the second-floor joists should go. Those extra joists on the inside of the 4x4s provide enough support for the floorboard ends. Build these in a similar fashion to the other walls of the playhouse, but with a triangular shape. Each new gable end level is shorter than the one beneath it, so it’s a good time to use some scraps.
Before you haul those gable ends up, attach 2×6 soffits at right angles to the outside faces of the gable ends, flush to their top edges.
The truth was that I didn’t take the time to properly design for this new space right away.  I was so anxious to get started that I arranged the machines in what I thought was a good layout, hooked up the messiest machines to the dust collector, and began making stuff without much planning. Once I was happy, I began to design the dust collection, electrical, and other shop elements.
Visit me on my Facebook Page, and follow me on Twitter for more ninja tips, and to see what’s going on in my shop and that of your fellow woodworkers. With this being said, here is a disclaimer: The author cannot be held accountable for the results you obtain by following these instructions. Cut a tenon on the back edge of the drawer divider and a corresponding mortise in the rear rail, the mortise-and-tenon in the back assembly is offset to allow room for this mortise. The joint where the case meets the base frame will be hidden later with the addition of shop-milled cove moulding.
Make the top frame as you did the bottom frame and add the stopped dado on the inside edge. Blind dovetail the sides into the back and face, and slide the raised panel bottom into its dado before final assembly. The shop is designed not only as a functional woodshop, but also as a relaxing place to be. Everybody has that mischievous spirit that runs off with that important thingamabob that you need for your next step in the project, but darned if you can find it.
Magnetic bowls can be found at most auto parts stores and in many larger home improvement big box stores.
Scribe a line across both sides with a square, then mark an X on the upward side of this line to show where the shelf will land. Again, mark another X on the upward side of this line, also making note that the narrow shelf is set back one inch from the front edges of the sides to make room for the doors. This dimension allows the cabinet to straddle most toilets, but if any adjustments need to be made to accommodate an unusual toilet height, make the changes now. Instead, hold the shelf in place against the sides and make one continuous pencil mark across both side pieces. Fit shelves onto the biscuits and dry-assemble the entire framework with the help of some clamps. When everything you need is within reach, apply glue to all the slots in one side and the corresponding slots in the shelf ends. Don’t worry about alignment of the front shelf edges for now, since everything can be made flush here after the glue dries.
When you’re ready for final door assembly, apply glue to the stub tenons and also to the corresponding grooves in the stiles. I like to use one board for both drawer fronts so the grain pattern is continuous across them.
You’ll almost certainly need to make adjustments, and a sharp hand plane is the tool of choice for this job. This creates an attractive, low-lustre finish, while offering plenty of moisture protection that will stand up well in the bathroom. I used 5” diameter duct because it has less pressure drop than 4” for the CFM my collector has, and also it’s not oversized to maintain enough air velocity to carry the chips back to the fan (make sure you maintain around 4,000 – 4,500 fpm velocity). Make sure the flex hose that drops down won’t interfere with stock feeding into or out of the tool.
That’s where knowing if you have the CFM recommended by industrial hygienists and organizations like ACGIH comes into play. Standard elbows have radii 1X the duct diameter Also there is less chance of clogs by doing this. With these in place, install the floor joists, fastening them to the front and back rim joists.
If you’ll be installing a plastic slide for the playhouse, as I did, double-check that it works with the second-floor height you use.
Even a little corrosion can cause screws to shear off eventually when used outdoors, which is one reason deck screws are not permitted by code in applications involving shear forces.
Without this step, the joints between the front wall boards won’t line up with the joints on the adjoining side walls. If you have a mitre saw that’s capable of cutting a shallow angle of approximately 30°, count yourself lucky.
Well, it’s not exactly a secret, but only my grandson can fit into the little space that is above the front porch of the playhouse.
You should rip these grooves on long 2×6 boards on the tablesaw before cutting the pieces to their final lengths.
The climbing blocks are made from offcuts of wood with routered edges for hand- and footholds.

Make the end joints by cutting the mortises in the side stiles first and then use them to mark the tenons on the end of the sink bottom. Round over the outside edges of the base frame members first then assemble the frame using mitred corners reinforced with biscuits. The only tricky part of building the doors is fitting the French-style rabbeted overlap where the doors meet the door divider.
The only power tools in the shop are his lathe and the table saw, which is only used for breaking down large pieces of material so they can be managed. It is funny how going out to the shop and working on a cradle for a friend’s new child for 10 hours can be more relaxing to the soul than any fancy spa or entertainment system. Tweak the distance between the doors and the drawers, or upper and lower middle shelves as needed. Check and adjust the framework for square, then install the central drawer divider with glue and a few small finishing nails.
Cut, glue and nail the filler in place, flush with the tops of the sides, and then prepare the crown. This is to keep any one main line to any tool shorter, reducing the static pressure (resistance to airflow) to each machine. Re-connecting flex hoses for every cut breaks up your workflow, takes energy, and eventually you may tend to make quick cuts without turning on the collector. These stores don’t usually sell sheet metal straight duct so you can go to your “big box” home store for that.
As you place these blocks according to the plans on page 23, add or remove crushed stone from beneath them so the top ends of all posts are level.
Although it may seem unnecessary, these joists should sit on galvanized joist hangers installed on 12″ centres. Now is the time to adjust the height of the second-floor frame if your slide is different from mine.
When it comes to installing the second-floor joists, attach them to the front and back rim joists. A gap-free floorboard assembly such as this isn’t typical, but it means that small toys won’t go missing, nor will small fingers get stuck between the boards. As you work, fasten the ends of the front wall boards to the ends of the side wall boards, capping the side wall’s end-grain. As long as each board is long enough to be trimmed properly at an angle later, you’re fine. The front and back gable ends rest on the upper front rim joist and top back wall board, respectively. Fasten each piece of outer trim to a piece of inner trim, positioned 1″ in from its front edge.
The top surface of the railing is best placed level with the top of the fourth wall board from the floor. I built mine by routing angled dados on the inside faces of the stringers to accept the ends of the treads.
Cut the tails first on the ends of the bottom and use them to mark the pins on the bottom of the sides.
To make the feet, enlarge the detail from the plan and transfer it onto both sides of each foot blank.
Just be sure that nothing is placed on it and to turn it regularly so it gets even exposure. Plywood panels can fit tight all around because they’re immune to moderate humidity changes.
You must avoid getting glue on the panels since it could interfere with seasonal movement and cause cracking. As with the drawer fronts, cut the crown from a continuous piece of wood so grain patterns wrap around the project. With better filters from American Filter Fabric Co., I no longer have this fine dust layer you see on the black flex hose and frame. This is because you calculate static pressure based on the longest run from the collector to the most distant machine connection. Then your shop gets all covered in dust and is unpleasant to work in, and your lungs receive cumulative damage. I found that I had to order my long-radius elbows online (which have a lower pressure drop than standard elbows), and the same with some of the wye fittings.  I currently use 30 ga. Deck screws will hold perfectly well for a while, but corrosion will make them weak enough to break. This arrangement makes for a clean look on the front, as the floorboards will run from side to side. The lowest front wall boards on each side of the doorway should also be anchored by screws driven up through the floorboards. Either way, plan on actually making the cuts later, after arranging all boards, with their ends still square, on the ground. You should now have a step-shaped, four-board pyramid in front of you, ready to cut to final shape. When the gable ends are up, attach them to the ends of the side soffits and then add six 2×4 purlins. Fasten the stringers to treads with three deck screws per joint, then attach the ladder to the post trim and a baluster with carriage bolts. To provide your little ones with more help getting up this wall, drill a hole in the vertical part of the railing, then knot a rope through it that trails down the climbing wall. Cut the rabbet in the back edge of the sink bottom and assemble the sides, bottom panel and sink bottom together.
Cut the dovetails which join the bridge to the drawer divider and side, then make the notch which accepts the front stile. I cut the feet by hand with a coping saw but you have access to a bandsaw I suggest using it-you’ll preserve your sanity.
Only two screws are needed, one at each end, driven up from the bottom, through the base frame into the bottom panel of the main case. Instead, angle these back 1? from square, so the front edge of each side is slightly longer than the back. Clamp each door immediately after assembly and check to make sure that the corners are square and flat.
You’ll get the best results if you leave the side pieces of crown longer than needed for now, then get the mitre joints right before trimming to final length at the back ends. The reason you see the coating of fine dust with the original Jet bags is because the lower bag is a breathable, woven polyester bag.
If you waste 10 hours in a month on switching duct connections and running over to the collector to turn it on and off many times a day, you could’ve bought yourself a cool system and saved all that physical energy.
Anchor the joist hangers with corrosion-proof nails that do not extend through the 2×6 rim joists. Take a look at the plans and you’ll see a pair of extra joists set flush against the inside faces of the 4×4 supports. Continue by adding four more boards in the same way, each one on top of the edge of the one below. As you work your way up, make allowances for any small windows you may want to install next to the door. Cut along the lines (with a handheld circular saw or a shallow-angle mitre saw) and you have your angle. Depending on your particular playhouse design, you may want to add railings at the sides, as I did.
Keep your woodworking hand arrangement of cabinets, countertops, and storage bins?all designed to fit against one wall in your garage or basement. Position the back in place and mark the position of the dado on the rear rail that corresponds to the rabbet on the back edge of the sink bottom.
Cut tenons on the ends of the drawer runner and fit them into mortises cut in the sink bottom. Cut the drawer bottoms and dry-fit all drawer parts to highlight any areas that need adjustment.
The next two levels of side wall boards must accommodate the 16″-wide windows, so they’re shorter than the ones beneath. Woodworking How-To's, Tool Reviews, Articles and Plans Small Wall Cabinet With small clamp rack. Apply the glue only to the middle third of the top edge of the sides to allow for seasonal movement. After its tanning session, complete the finishing by applying three coats of tung oil followed by a coat of paste wax.
Measure the distance between the two shelves and cut this piece with the grain running the same way as that on the sides. Fasten a pair of 14″-long 2x6s on each side of what will become your window opening, then span the top of this opening with the uppermost side rim joist.
With the case fitted together, mark the notches that allow the face of the front stiles to fit flush with the in the front edge of the sink bottom.
This bead balances the one on the door divider but more importantly hides the barrel hinges. Take apart the framework and sand all the interior surfaces with a 120-grit abrasive in preparation for final glue-up.
A belt sander is an excellent tool for adjusting final drawer size for a smooth-sliding fit within the openings. This singed-felt filter bag filters down to 1-micron 96-98% brand new (without a dust cake), and even more after a dust cake develops. This moulding hides the joints between the base and the main case and between the main case and the top.
Drive steel screws of the same size to make pilot holes, then install the softer brass screws.

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Rubric: Storage Shed House


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