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Woodworking block planes,how much would it cost to build a 10x10 wood shed utah,storage buildings rent to own lebanon tn library,woodworking desk organizer plans - Plans Download

19.08.2015 admin
Your use of this website constitutes acknowledgement and acceptance of our Terms & Conditions. Our brand new push block gives you better control when pushing smaller stock through your router on a table top surface.
While the glue on the shelf is setting, cut the mortises in the side skirts and the long and short aprons, and then the tenons for the inner top supports. With the holes drilled, now is the time to dress up your base with decorative cuts and router details. Recreating the classic tumbling-block illusion using end-grain lumber is an exercise in precision.
The one other item that really helped was the Freud LM72R010 tablesaw blade that I used to make the rip cuts. The top is made up of 84 hexagonal segments, each made of three rhombuses (or diamonds) laminated together to form the pattern. From your stack of ripped rhombus lumber, select one piece each of cherry, maple and walnut, and arrange them into a hexagonal bundle. Once you have all eight logs glued up and dry, you’ll need to true them using a thickness planer. Lower your cutter head in your thickness planer so it just contacts the face of your log, and then lower it exactly a half a crank (or about 1?32″). Using a fine blade in your bandsaw or mitre saw, trim one end of each log square before using a stop block to cut each log into 11 segments 41?8″ long. While the tumbling-block pattern tabletop looks great, it can be quite challenging to build. Once the blanks are dry, plane them down to 2″ thick to even out the joints, then get out the glue again. An end grain cutting board is constructed with the grain oriented vertically so the end grain of the wood is visible on the top. Made of a composite rubber the pad on the push block is designed grip your stock and provide excellent control while pushing your stock through the router. Once the bottom shelf is dry, scrape, sand or plane the surfaces to remove any glue squeeze-out, then mark and cut the tenons to fit through the mortises in the side skirts.
If you do the math, it adds up to a lot of dowel holes that need to be drilled in precisely the right places. An end-grain block is the hallmark of a professional chef, as it preserves sharp knife edges far better than a cross-grain or acrylic board. This blade is made specifically for rip cuts in thick hardwood; as the lumber we are using needs to glue up perfectly right off the saw, this blade is a good investment. In order to make these segments, I started by assembling eight hexagonal “logs” 48″ long, cutting them to length later.
It is imperative that all of your lumber is exactly the same thickness to ensure there is no deviation between boards. Set your tablesaw blade to 30° from square (creating 60° bevels on the wood) and double-check the angle.
Flip and rotate your pieces within the bundle to get the grain direction of each piece perpendicular to the ones beside it for the best illusion.
Scrape off any squeeze-out, then label the sides of each log, at both ends, using the numbers one to six. Take four blocks and slice them in half on your bandsaw, cutting down through the point of the maple and through the seam between the walnut and cherry to form the filler blocks for the short ends of the top, then slice the maple diamonds in half (down through the point) for the 10 half-segments that make up the long edges of the top.


You will see that the board is made up of eight staggered rows of 10 full blocks, with half-blocks filling in the edges of the cutting board. The hexagonal shapes make alignment and clamping difficult, the sheer size and weight of the assembly makes shifting individual pieces tough, and the limited open time of the glue meant I had to work quickly to get it all together.
Small ones are most easily filled with two-part epoxy dribbled into the cracks, left to harden and sanded flush. The wood requires careful placement of your pushsticks on the stock and extreme caution as you cut because a large portion of the stock remains unsupported by the table due to the previously cut angle.
If you’d like to create a more traditional (and simpler) butcher-block top, opt for a checkerboard pattern.
The Power Push Block also has and adustable platform so you can postion the block on top ofA  wider stock pieces. Although I’m a big fan of handcut joinery, quite frankly, the thought of handcutting the 16 through mortises and laying out and drilling 144 dowel holes for what would ultimately be a utility piece of furniture didn’t appeal to me. Make the cuts on your bandsaw and clean up the saw marks with a few passes of a block plane or sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block.
Apply tape over the mid part of the tenons and over the dowel holes, then prefinish all of the individual pieces. For your top, you can choose to reproduce my pattern, or you can go with a simpler arrangement of one or two species. Once you have your orientation picked, apply a coat of top-quality, water-tolerant glue, such as Titebond III, to the mating faces with a small roller, and bring the pieces together into a hexagonal log. You have planed half of the faces now, so you will need to lower the cutter head again by the same amount as the initial adjustment (half a crank) and then plane Sides 4, 5 and 6. So, take a breather, get all of your supplies together (including bar clamps), plan out your assembly and jump in.
I did the same with the next piece, and then set it into position against the preceding one.
If you end up with a larger gap or two, cut a tapered wedge in matching wood the same width as the crack and slightly thicker, put some epoxy down the crack and tap in the wedge until snug. Because I used three species of wood with different (although similar) expansion rates, I wanted to seal the wood as thoroughly as possible to avoid movement issues. It applies easily, buffs to a nice shine, is non-toxic and makes the shop smell wonderful when you apply it. An easy grip handle is completely adjustable side to side for better leverage on smaller pieces.
If you don’t have access to lumber that thick, laminate thinner pieces to achieve the required size. First, I marked a line 9″ up from the bottom of each leg to show the location of the top of the side skirts. With the holes drilled, you can glue and clamp the cleats in place on the inside faces and flush with the tops of the aprons and top supports. Prefinishing is far easier than finishing the nooks and crannies that appear after assembly.
Whichever method you choose, stick with the tighter-grained hardwoods such as hard maple, cherry or even purpleheart.
For measuring the angles, I went digital with the Wixey digital angle gauge to set the critical saw blade angles. I then pulled the wood back from the blade and measured the width of the newly sawn face with my digital calipers, comparing that measurement to the width of the first angled cuts I had made previously on all of the boards.


The low-angle, bevel-up blade slices the end-grain cleanly, and the heft of the plane helps plow through the wood. To do this, I set out to fill the straw-like cells that make up end-grain as fully as possible with a curing finish.
You could glue these strips into wider blanks, but the 12″ width is good because it fits through benchtop thickness planers. The adjustable arm and the anti-kick back stop firmly hold your stock in place during your cutting process. I used a combination of jig-cut through mortise-and-tenon and dowel joinery to make a strong, good-looking base. With the legs cut, plane 5?4 lumber to 1″ thick for the rest of the base components and cut them to size. These cleats allow you to attach the top later, and the oversize holes allow for the inevitable seasonal wood movement in the top.
I used three coats of Deft spray lacquer on my base, but tung oil or polyurethane are good options as well.
Cut all of the first edges in one session to avoid moving the fence and introducing inaccuracy. If there’s any difference in width between the first round of cuts and the second, adjust the fence and make another trial cut.
Multiple wraps of the cord generate a tremendous amount of clamping force at just the right angles, pulling the assembly together. I then built the subsequent rows in the same way, clamping each row individually as I went, quickly moving on to the next row, nestling each piece into the row preceding it.
If you are at all uncomfortable with this process, modify the design into a simpler checkerboard pattern. But you can choose to use just one or the other style of joinery; just be sure to take into account the differences in the part lengths required for alternative joints and adjust your stock size accordingly.
The FMT (Frame Mortise and Tenon) jig uses a set of guide plates to cut matching mortises and tenons precisely in your workpieces.
These instruments allow you to achieve a high level of precision, and help to make sure everything goes together at glue-up time. Repeat this procedure until the width of each face of the strip is identical, then proceed to rip all of the required strips. Wipe the board off, set it aside to dry, then repeat the process on the other side of the board.
Continue in this manner until all the blocks and half pieces are in place, then remove your clamps and wrap a band clamp around the entire top. I created two tenons on each end of the inner top supports and corresponding mortises in the aprons. Tighten the clamp as much as you can, and adjust the pieces to get the top as gap-free as possible.



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