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On my nightstand sits a photograph of my parents, taken during their three-year tour in Germany before I was born.
Since I was old enough to remember, this photoa€”along with the treasures my parents brought home in 1969 (a long-haired daschund, crystal goblets, a sporty two-door Volvo P1800)a€”helped shape my mental picture of Germany. Ranked among the most livable cities in the world, Munich feels more like a village of 1.3 million than a bustling metropolis. The citya€™s heritage is displayed daily in storefronts, concert halls, restaurants and attire. My adventure with exceptional German design begins even before I board my flighta€”nonstop from Washington Dulles International Airport to Munich Airporta€”with a visit to Lufthansaa€™s swank new Senator and Business Class Lounge. After a swim in the Olympic poola€”which sits under one of the distinctive tent-style roofsa€”I spend an hour strolling through the park.
Next door is BMWa€™s headquarters, factory, museum and showroom, a glass and steel structure as impressive as the motor masterpieces housed inside.
The bicycles in the BMW store make me weak in the knees with their sexy lines and seductive German engineering, but even before I convert euros to U.S. Just a few minutesa€™ walk from my hotel is the trendy Glockenbachviertel neighborhood, where flamboyant and Goth clothes fill shop windows, and East Village-esque restaurants and bars line the narrow streets.
I spend my last day in Germany visiting Murnau, an hour south of Munich in the foothills of the Alps. As we drive around in Fritza€™s green Subaru, up hills and around the Murnau Moor nature reserve, I realize that anyone could be a€?happiera€? in this idyllic town.
Ita€™s easy to see why the area served as inspiration to artists such as Wassily Kandinsky and Gabriele Munter, who lived together at the beginning of the 20th century in what is today the Munter-Haus (also called the Russian House).
And ita€™s also a cinch to recognize, at last, the scene in that photograph on my nightstand.
So instead of dragging home a BMW bike, I carry with me another form of transportation: memory.
Yet the capital of the state of Bavaria is one of Europea€™s leading centers of art and culture (with 58 theaters and 45 museums) and has an extraordinary public transportation system. A history teacher named Gudrun, who takes me on a walking tour of the city, says the rain kept her from donning her dirndl, the traditional Bavarian dress. My meals on the flight (starting with spinach-stuffed gnocchi with crimini mushrooms and pine nuts) cana€™t justifiably be called a€?airplane food,a€? since Ritz-Carlton chefs took over the menus this spring.
My tour with Gudrun covers the citya€™s main attractionsa€”including the glockenspiel at Marienplatz and the onion-shaped domes atop the two towers of the Frauenkirche, the Gothic cathedral.
The Olympic Park (olympiaparkmunchen.de) was home to the 1972 Games, tarnished by the killing of 11 Israeli athletes and coaches by Palestinian terrorists.


In the citya€™s 3-mile radius, youa€™ll get around faster on a bike than any other mode of transportation. The companya€™s four-hour tour ($33.50)a€”which includes a beer garden breaka€”is a great way to get your bearings and work off that bretze (pretzel) and butter sandwich.
Meal after meal, I return to this district, safe and easy, and find bartenders and baristas who gladly translate menus for me.
The town, surrounded by warm lakes, is a popular weekenddestination for cycling, paragliding, climbing and winter sports. I remember an e-mail from my mother that described Bavariaa€™s colored buildings and flower boxes, and her words come to life in Murnaua€™s cobblestone-lined pedestrian blocks. We drive past ambling cows, adorned with bells that create a pleasing symphony in the valley. There, they and their artist friends sealed the regiona€™s standing as the birthplace of expressionist painting. It really could have been any flower garden in Bavaria, but I imagine my parents, south of Munich, enveloped by crisp Alpine air and the faint sound of cowbells.
Ita€™s portable, dependable and German-made, and the images will forever bring me back to the beauty of Bavaria. The Brandhorst Museum (museum-brandhorst.de) opened in May, the newest attraction in the Kunstareal, or Art Quarter.
The Valentin Museum (valentin-musaeum.de), dedicated to the famous Bavarian comedian Karl Valentin, known as the Charlie Chaplin of Germany, reopened in 2008. There are iPod docking stations and DVD players, but bring your own shampoo and alarm clock.
Most of the 160 rooms have views of the Old Botanical Gardens or Municha€™s historic buildings.
The only room that survived the war unscathed is Falka€™s Bar in the famed Spiegelsaal (Mirror Hall). Alpenhof, an hour south of Munich in the foothills of the Alps, just opened its Yavanna Wellness & Spa, which includes a Finnish pine sauna, footbaths and ice fountains. The airport bus leaves every 20 minutes for a 45-minute ride to the Main Train Station, which is convenient to most hotels. The biggest risk of jaywalking is not being hit by a car or being ticketed; ita€™s the look of shock and contempt youa€™ll earn from law-abiding pedestrians. MA?nchen, as the Germans call it, was founded as a town in 1158, and residents are proud of their history.
But Ia€™m surprised to learn that many of the historic-looking buildings are just decades old.


Today ita€™s beautiful and vibrant, with walkways, lakes, bicycle paths, concert and sports venues and restaurants.
Visitors can even reserve a spot to climb onto the roof of the Olympic Stadium between April and November (rope and snap hook provided), or for the more conventional tourist, there are daily tours of the stadium and the 955-foot Olympic Tower. Munich supports an extensive network of dedicated bike lanes that cover 745 miles, and the city Web site (muenchen.de) has an interactive route planner that allows you to print maps. Dogs seem to be welcome in coffee shops, stores, beer gardens and sidewalk cafes, so I imagine Munich also ranks high as a livable city for hounds.
In the center is a beer garden, a great spot to rest with your bike and dog, fuel up and take in the atmosphere.
Fritz takes me to the local brewery, GriesbrA¤u (griesbraeu.de), where we eat a traditional Bavarian meal. We pass houses bursting at the seams with geraniums, lace curtains blowing out of open windows.
I picture them driving in their new Volvo, the daschunda€™s ears flopping in the wind, stopping to snap a picture in front of some roses. After youa€™ve taken a bite out of the city, come back to your room for a bite of the polished apple on your pillow. You can also take the S-Bahn trains (S-1 or S-8, depending on your destination), which depart every 10 minutes from the airport to the city center. Munich was all but destroyed by Allied airstrikes in World War II, Gudrun tells me, a€?but the city was careful to rebuild in the same style, not like other German cities that are very modern now.a€? She says only one out of 220 churches survived the war. There are 22,000 bike stands, but youa€™ll often see bikes leaning against a restaurant or store as riders dine or shop. The downside for dogs is that the city is unfathomably clean, so I doubt the pups ever find sidewalk scraps. He explains how local culturea€”food, music and hospitalitya€”is closer to that of Austria than Northern Germany. Bikes are allowed on the trains (with a Bicycle Day Pass, $3.50), except during rush hour, and Municha€™s bike lanes put cyclists in a commuter class that you rarely see in the States.
Although your ticket isna€™t often checked, youa€™ll face a hefty fine from the ticket inspector if youa€™re caught without one.



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