What causes whistling in the ears 900,ear infection infant discharge,crochet cross earrings - Review

WATER SUPPLY PIPE WHISTLE NOISE - CONTENTS: diagnose the causes of water pipe noises of whistling or shrieking, or vibration. Other types of building pipe noises both in the supply system (such as water hammer or pipe vibration) and in the plumbing drain system (such as gurgling drains) are discussed in companion articles linked to at More Reading at the end of this article.
I am not sure what to do, as I am selling my house and I don't want someone to turn them on and hear that and be turned off. A couple people have said [that I should] turn all the water faucets on at once for 5 minutes, as that would work.
I just want a professional, easy solution, because I can't hear [the pipe whistling sound] when the outside hose front or back of the town house are on. Water supply piping noise complaints are usually related to the pressure and flow velocity of water in the piping system. At PLUMBING NOISE CHECKLIST we note that plumbing noises that produce high-pitched hissing or whistling sound may be heard as water runs through building supply piping.
You may be able to stop or reduce plumbing supply piping noise by changing the water system pressure at a municipal water supply valve.
If you think that this problem was not present when the building was new but has been getting worse over time, that argues for a mineral deposit or debris deposit, possibly along the length of piping but also possibly in a faucet, control, even a fixture spout strainer that is having effect. Mineral deposits, if that is a factor in pipe noise (see corrugated piping noise research cited below), won't disappear by simple flushing. If you think that the problem has always been present then I suspect a pipe layout, design, support, or one or more individual valves, controls, or even a pressure tank problem. Watch out: while you're inspecting the plumbing system be alert for lead supply piping (red arrow in our photo) that may be at end of life or might be a health concern, and look for leaks, inadequate pipe support, or other stuff you failed to notice that you might fix before a plumbing leak becomes a catastrophe. I'm doubtful that just running all the faucets for an interval will fix a pipe noise, except on the slight chance of flushing out a bit of debris somewhere that happens to block flow so as to cause the flow rate to set up a harmonic vibration or cavitation in the piping system. But because unlike heating systems, water flows in building piping generally at higher pressures and flow rates than in hydronic heat (where air traps are more common), I'd expect air to be forced through the piping and discharged at faucets even if there was a recurrent source of air in the system (such as a well piping or control or air volume control defect ).
I have found a range of plumbing noises, banging, clanking, and whistling that occur when water is run in some buildings and that would diminish or stop entirely when we changed the flow rate to faster or slower than a critical rate that seems to set up a vibration in the system. Sometimes even a small flow rate such as a filling toilet can cause a horrible shrieking or whistling in the supply pipe system, so I infer that the sound is not simply caused by a high flow rate. A squealing water pressure tank sound is often due to water passing through a restricted valve or pipe clog. Shrieking from a water pressure tank that incorporates a bladder may be due to a partly collapsed bladder or obstruction at the tank entrance fittings. Before beating whistling or shrieking pipes into a quiet state we should be quite confident that the building noise complaint is only related to water supply piping, that is, the whistling or shrieking sound is not related to or caused by the drain system, and more suitably, not related to hot water heating equipment nor hydronic or steam heating system noise. Still more building shrieks and whistles not due to mechanical systems have been traced to wind noise, swinging signs, loose chimney caps, even odd roof shingle defects. A high pitched shriek or whine also occurs during fill-ups of water tanks whose water level is controlled by a float. Some discussion of the effects of holes in piping systems and the causes of cavitation inside the piping system is in order. For example at our offices in Mexico water is supplied by intermittent, varying pressures in the street water mains from which water is pushed by city pressure to a rooftop water storage tank.
I have observed that at times when our rooftop water tank is filling the whole water system produces a horrible shrieking sound that some visitors describe as water pipe whistling. I find that while the pipe whistle-shriek is active, if I zoom over to the main water shutoff-valve and close it slightly, the shrieking stops immediately.
This sound does not always occur, depending probably principally on the supplying water main pressure but possibly on other variables in temperature, even barometric pressure, or the condition of the water tank float valve. I don't claim this is the only possible explanation of water pipe whistles but it seems a likely one. We also observed both whistling and banging clanging water hammer in the water supply piping system of the Casa Azul hotel in Queretaro, Mexico - an incredibly loud sound that would appear or disappear depending on how many fixtures were in use and probably on variations in the hotel's water supply pressure. Have you tried, during the whistling, various measures to amend the flow rate of water such as turning the main water supply valve slightly more towards its closed or open position? Besides these research citations on water pipe noises, people have invented things intended to silence the pipe whistle. Below we include a list of pipe noise reduction measures, starting with a few installation details. JGL Acoustics recommends that the maximum water flow rate in gallons per minute in a building piping system ought to be 4 feet per second.
Separately, Canadian CMHC research (1996) found that increasing water pressure increased the noise level in buildings by +5 dBA to +9dBA when water pressure increased from 40 psi to 100 psi (which is high and well above recommended in-building water supply pipe pressures). Confirm that the whistle or shriek is due to plumbing: a quick test is to shut off the water supply when you hear the noise.
Secure loose water supply pipes: on occasion we find pipes that vibrate and wiggle around, perhaps due to cavitation or other water movement inducements. Reducing water pressure or flow velocity is the single quickest, least costly step that should reduce building water pipe noise generation. Suspended building systems including equipment, ductwork and piping are either noise and vibration sources or paths which can transmit vibrations into the supporting structure. Noise from plumbing fixtures can be a source of great annoyance in single-family and multi-family homes. A study funded by Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation and undertaken by MJM Acoustical Consultants* at NRC examined the changes in noise level produced by different types of pipes, different methods of mounting pipes, different wall types, and the addition of sound absorbing materials in walls. Nakiboglu, Gunes, Stefan PC Belfroid, Devis Tonon, Johannes FH Willems, and Avraham Hirschberg. Continue reading at WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. Try the search box below or CONTACT US by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia.
Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore.
The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running.
Here we discuss the causes of water supply piping noises such as whistles or shrieks, we cite pipe noise research, and we explain how these whistling pipe noises can be cured or prevented in the first place. Nor do I hear the pipes shrieking when the bath room basin, bathtub, clothes washer are in use, nor when you flush toilets. Because water pipe noises tend to be greater at higher pressures or velocities, often we can immediately stop the noise by adjusting water pressure OR water flow rate.
This sound should stop immediately when you turn off any fixture that is running water in the building. It is possible to trap a bit of air inside of a horizontal water (or hot water heating system) pipe, and I agree that at least in theory the effective reduced diameter of piping in the area of air trap might be related to pipe noises. In that case the noise seems to come from a combination of stick float mechanism that may not fully open the fill valve and thus a partial restriction in the water line. I suspect, based on limited field testing and a review of research literature that cavitation may explain some water pipe whistling and shrieking. I speculate that the noise is due to cavitation in one of two locations: the inlet water main valve or the float valve that controls filling of the water storage tank. But the key steps in managing pipe whistling and vibration caused by water flowing through the piping system involve adjusting the pressure and flow rate in the system. We list some noise isloating pipe hanger suppliers under plumbing noise silencer devices below. If the water pressure regulator is the noise source consider changing the brand or model of the control.
Often closing the valve slightly, or opening it if the valve was mostly shut, will change the flow rate enough to stop water pipe cavitation noises at the fixture.
Structural floor, ceiling and roof systems act as sounding boards, turning these vibrations into audible noise. Our hangers are typically installed inline with threaded rod supports to break the rigid support path. Hunaidi at Canada's NRC who studied plumbing noise found that plastic piping is about 10 dBA less noisy than copper pipes when both are rigidly clamped. They indicate that you and I are not totally weird in looking for a solution to water pipe sounds.
A research project conducted in the acoustical laboratory of the National Research Council of Canada, on behalf of the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. Noise-control articles and textbooks usually recommend the use of resilient supports for pipes and other fixtures as a means of controlling noise.


Noise sources used included an ISO standard plumbing noise source, a toilet, a sink, and five common bathroom faucets.
The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate. I just saw that could have been turning the outside faucets off could have caused backed up the air in pipes.
You can demonstrate the hypothesis that cavitation occurs in some water control valves at some valve positions by opening or closing the valve just slightly from its current position. Rigid pipe supports such as metal strapping, clamps, or even the plastic J-hook tpe support are the greatest source of pipe noise tranmission in buildings.
Other than simply adjusting the valve to a lower rate, this may be the least-costly step in shutting up screaming pipes. Vibro-Acousticsa€™ uniquely-engineered springs are used for low frequency vibrations, and our elastomeric isolators help absorb high frequency vibrations.
However if you use noise-isolating plumbing supports either pipe material will be equally quiet. The objective of this research was to determine the acoustical performance of various pipes and plumbing installations; the report is available in both French and English. Closed cell rubber foam supports were found to be the most effective of the resilient materials tested, providing reductions in A-weighted noise levels around 20 dB. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.
If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads.
If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control.
The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments. This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below. Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11). It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge. They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult. When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan. Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14). Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem. If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad. Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor. They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one. The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core. Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment.
You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment.
Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws. This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer.
Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis. If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it.
There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19). Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern. Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator.
Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem. If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem.
The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle. If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements.
Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized. Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time.
Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door.
Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal.
It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under. Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights. For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes.
Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2.
The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end. The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much. If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater.
The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature. In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer.


The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad.
If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat.
Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils.
Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings. If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man. DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems. The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work.
If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice. In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord. Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers. If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat.
Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes. Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater. Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place. The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work.
The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4.
Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head. Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head. The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head.
Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head. Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY.
If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat. Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism.
However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly. Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow. Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate. Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book. If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer.
Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat.
The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater. These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer.
Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps.
Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad.
Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad. Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system. Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point. UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch. If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out.
Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT.
I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis. Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which.
These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty. COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective. To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb. The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.



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