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If you have obstructive sleep apnea, chances are, you’re likely to have some sort of an ear problem. The ear drum is a thin membrane that separates the middle ear cavity from the outer ear canal. Whenever you go up an elevator or descend during a flight, the atmospheric pressure either goes up or down, and this creates either positive or negative pressure in your middle ear. However, if you have any degree of inflammation in your nose, then additional swelling can prevent proper equilibration of air between your middle ear and nose. You’re probably very familiar with the effects that a simple cold or allergy can have on your nose and ears.
If you don’t have obstructive sleep apnea, the entire process can come and go within a few days to weeks. For some people using a CPAP machine can blow air into the middle ears, through positive pressure. Two years ago I was diagnosed with severe sleep apnea (33 times per hour) and started using CPAP machine ever since. It is possible that too high of a CPAP pressure can aggravate ear problems, but it can also cause central sleep apneas. When I wake up in the morning, I feel pressure in my left ear, it seems as if it is clogged and i do have some difficulty in hearing, but within few hours it ends. Years ago I had hearing loss in my left ear and the doctor performed a stapendectomy; removing and replacing a bone with a surgical steel pin. I don’t know anyone in the Houston area, but you may want to look for an otologist (someone who deals with ears only). I have had a long history of eustachian tube problems that resulted in cholesteotomas since early childhood. Recently while using the CPAP I am getting ear pressure in the left ear to the point that last night I had to take off the mask to get to sleep.
I am using a CPAP for sleep apnea and about 2 months ago I started feeling that my right ear was not the way it should be and I started hearing my heart beat in a soft, whooshing way. I got a new cpap machine and the sleep docter set the pressure higher on the new machine to 10 from 7.8. I have been using a CPAP machine for approx 5 months and only recently noticed that both of my ears constantly have a slight ringing sound. I have a daughter with Down syndrome who has sleep apnea, every time I put on her mask she waits a little bit and then asks for it to be taken off , I tell her no.
I wonder if the my cleaning method might make me more susceptible to some kind of middle ear infection? My middle ear problem seemingly started between three different factors: I used water and vinegar last and that seems to be when the problems started along with also during this two week period not having any distilled water. Between the tube cleaning and not using distilled water, that’s when the problems started. I am using distilled water again, but the problem is still there and my right ear feels terrible. Be a fan on Facebook Follow me on Twitter Connect with me on Linkedin Ask Dr. This section is where you will add or edit your mp3 files for people to listen to or download.
The material on this website is for educational and informational purposes only and is not and should not be relied upon or construed as medical, surgical, psychological, or nutritional advice. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running. Helpful advice for diagnosing and living (and loving) with different types of Herpes virus. After a few days, the herpes sore will release their liquids and thousands of little viruses. The sooner you take some action, the sooner you'll be able to calm your mind about whether you have herpes or not.1.
Watch me get a real herpes test with STDCheck (and how you can too!) Jul 21, 15 05:19 PMWatch me get a herpes test to see how easy it is.
There Is Hope Mar 09, 15 09:31 PMI was devastated, this thing just kept getting crazier. There and Back Again from Singer to Statistic Mar 09, 15 08:46 PMSo I was involved in an operatic production at my Alma mater and became intimate with a student at said university. There are a number of reasons why you’re going to be prone to various ear problems, but in many cases, the problem is not actually coming from the ear.
Sounds waves vibrate the ear drum, which connects via a sophisticated lever and piston amplifier system that transmits sound waves to the inner ear. With very slight pressure changes, you’ll feels a bit of fullness and hearing loss, but with severe pressure changes, you may even have pain and discomfort.
A number of different causes can aggravate swelling, including viral colds, allergies, weather changes, and even acid reflux. The first thing to make sure of is that you’re treating your sleep apnea condition optimally. Having even 2-3 apnea or hypopnea episodes per hour, although acceptable, can still suction up juices into your throat. By knowing what can cause ear problems and how you can deal with it, you can minimize the discomfort to a point where it’s tolerable or minimal. It’s important to work with your sleep doctor to fully optimize your sleep apnea treatment.
When I use my CPAP, I wake up in the middle of the night with ear fullness, a sinus type headache and on some night my teeth feel very sensitive. By April I experienced hearing loss as though both ears were stuffed with cotton and a visit to my ENT Dr.
But I also have had chronic ear issues in my left ear for most of my life (infections, swelling, swimmers ear) every 3 or so years I will get an infection.
If I use the ramp-up the pressure is too low for the nasal mask (the one with the 2 plugs that goes into the nose, not the mask that fits over the nose). I use the CPAP machine and since then my right ear has been feeling a little clogged and its constantly popping I always have to pinch my nose and blow to try and regulate my hearing but that never really works to unclog my ear. I had been having problems with my ears burning from toothpaste, carbonated drinks, and spices and using the CPAP made the symptoms worse. After reading your article and other comments I’m worried that if I continue using the CPAP machine that it could cause permanent hearing loss.
Just for month back, i noticed waking up after half an hour sleep, with pounding heart and high blood pressure. Please consult your doctor before making any changes to your medical regimen, exercise or diet program. If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate. That's a good question.Often herpes sores get mistaken for other things like bug bites, ingrown hairs, or even pimples. Then usually triggered by stress, it goes up the ganglia of the nerves to the skin around the mouth or genital area.It hangs out under the skin for a few days.
It will make the skin red and irritated.Then the herpes virus will create small liquid pus-filled blisters at the surface of the skin. To better manage your ear issues, you first have to understand your ear anatomy, and the different types of inflammation caused by sleep apnea.
But in certain situations, your cold or allergy may go away, but your ears will continue to be stuffed for days or weeks. Furthermore, frequent obstructions and arousals leads to an imbalance of your involuntary nervous system, where your nose is going to be overly sensitive, especially to weather changes (pressure, temperature, and humidity changes). If your CPAP pressure is too low, or your dental device is undercalibrated, or your UPPP procedure was only partially effective, then you’ll still have residual obstructive sleep apnea and are still feeling the effects of intermittent obstructions and arousals.
Having a chronically stuffy nose can create more of a vacuum effect downstream, which allows the tongue to fall back more often when in deep sleep, due to muscle relaxation.
If I continue to use the machine, my nose bleeds and the headaches last throughout the day.
What this means is that you have to look at other options for treating your obstructive sleep apnea.
The options that I offer include stopping CPAP or trying something else for sleep apnea, or inserting pressure equilibrations tubes. My brain becomes so much awake that i cannot sleep after the episode, and even afraid to lie down. About 8 months ago I went in for a follow on sleep study and found out that when I lay on my back, I require pressure 21, so an auto pap was prescribed. Park's New Book --> Affiliate Links Here is where you can put the affiliate links to various products, or other advertising you may need. This combination of red skin and blisters is known as a herpes sore.Usually there will be many little blisters clustered together. A pimple looks like herpes because it has red skin with a white blister on top.The difference however are many.


In the last part of this article, I’ll go over some tips to help you solve many of your ear-related issues.
This is made possible by the function of the eustachian tube, which connects your middle ear cavity to the back of your nose. As a result, you’ll feel anything from fullness, hearing loss, popping, clicking, buzzing, or even ringing.
Sometimes, the vacuum pressures that are created can cause fluid to accumulate, giving you what’s called serous otitis media. The same rule applies to alcohol, since not only does it produce more stomach acid, it also relaxes your tongue and throat muscles, causing you to stop breathing more often. My sleep Dr said he cant understand why this is happening as I have a hunidifier and he lowered the pressure on the CPAP. Is there something I can do to rid my self of the clogged ear that is perhaps pressure stuck in my middle ear or Eustachian tube? Which means no kissing, or sex, or touching the herpes sores.Then the blisters or herpes sores will turn into scabs. Whenever you swallow or yawn, your palatal and throat muscles open up the eustachian tube temporarily, equalizing pressure between the middle ear and the nose.
This is why it’s recommended that you chew gum during descents in flights, or give the baby a bottle to feed. Rarely, this fluid can get infected and turn into the classic bacterial infection or otitis media. My ears burn constantly, but excruciatingly upon brushing my teeth or drinking fizzy beverages. This ear ringing has different pitch at times, and increases and decreases as it is controlled by volume knob, becomes extremely irritating. You can think of the middle ear as a sinus—an out-pouching from the nose into an adjacent pocket of bone or soft tissue.
Fortunately, not too many people have true bacterial infections—most never make it past the vacuum pressure or clear fluid stages. I had several conversations with my ENT regarding the suspected relationship between my ear problems & my use of a CPAP. I’m logging some good hours, but last night, at 6pm, my right ear lost almost half of its hearing. I have not been using the CPAP regualarly, I try for a few days to see if it will be okay but it elevates the symptoms.
So as you shed skin in the infected area, the herpes virus can be spread through skin to skin contact. My hearing loss has improved only slightly and as of July my left ear now drains about 1cc of clear fluid upon waking.
If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control.
The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments. This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below.
Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11). It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge. They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult.
When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan.
Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14). Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem. If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad. Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor. They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one.
The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core.
Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment.
You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment.
Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws.
This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer. Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis.
If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it. There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19). Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern. Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator.
Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem. If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem. The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle.
If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker.
This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements. Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized.
Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time.
Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door. Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal.
It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions.
Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under.
Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights. For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes.
Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2. The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end.
The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much.
If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater.


The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature. In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer. The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad. If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat. Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils. Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings. If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man. DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems.
The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work. If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity.
Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice.
In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord. Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers. If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat. Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes.
Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater. Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place. The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work.
The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4.
Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head. Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head. The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head. Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head. Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY.
If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat.
Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism. However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly. Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow. Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate.
Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book.
If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer.
Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat. The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater.
These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer.
Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps.
Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad. Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad.
Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system. Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point. UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch. If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem.
The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out.
Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT.
I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis. Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which. These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty. COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective.
To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb. The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.



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