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People who inhabit and visit the houses we live in come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from infants to seniors, with various ever-changing abilities and skills. An overview of the key concepts of universal design is provided in “The Principles of Universal Design” text box at the end of the document. A ramp can be used to overcome changes in level, either on the inside or outside of a home, as an alternative to using stairs. A ramp is ideal for people who are having difficulty negotiating stairs for various reasons, be it the need to carry heavy objects between levels, move a child in a stroller, or because of a disability. Ramps are particularly useful for overcoming changes in level up to about 760 mm (30 in.), from the ground level to entrance level, for example. There are typically two strategies used for ramp design: a landscape approach and a structural approach.
The illustrations and photos used in this fact sheet are intended only to show the concept and intent and may not reflect local building code requirements. This approach incorporates landscaping, gently sloping walkways and grading to overcome changes in level (see Figure 2). The structural approach involves building a ramp structure — usually using wood-framing construction (see Figures 3 and 4).
Angled ramps may also be used, but remember that the start and finish of the ramp must incorporate a straight approach.
Ramps generally require a lot of space; particularly if they are used to overcome significant changes in level.
The run (length) of the ramp will depend on two primary factors: the overall rise (vertical change in level) and the slope used. Some people may be able to manage ramp slopes steeper than 1 in 12, especially if they use a powered wheelchair — but such steep ramps are generally not recommended as there may be visitors to your home who cannot safely use them.
A steeper ramp may also be acceptable when it is used to overcome a small change in level, such as at the threshold of a sliding door, at a single step outside or to a sunken living room. If you are considering a landscape approach, try to achieve slopes no steeper than 1 in 20. Unless the ramp user has very good strength and stamina, it is recommended that no single length of ramp be more than 6 m (20 ft.) in length between landings. The clear width of the ramp should be 1,000 mm (39 in.) — this does not include the space required for any handrails, guards or other structural components that might be needed.
Note: If users are unable to steer their walkers, wheelchairs or scooters in a reasonably straight line, consider building a wider ramp. As the ramp may also be used by people who are walking, ensure there is clear headroom of at least 2,100 mm (83 in.) above ramps and landings. Ramp handrails are usually a building code requirement and are always recommended for ramps steeper than 1 in 20 (1:20). Where handrails are not required by the building code, it is recommended that a raised lip or edge protection be provided to prevent someone from wheeling off the edge of the ramp. If the primary users require support on one or both sides of the ramp, handrails should be provided on both sides located 860 – 920 mm (34 – 36 in.) above the surface of the ramp (see Figure 6).
If the primary users are children, persons of small stature, or wheelchair users who require railings to assist in pulling themselves up, a second lower handrail should be provided on both sides at a height that is best suited to their needs. A handrail should be affixed in a way that allows a user to grasp it continuously along its entire length — the location of brackets or posts should not require a user to let go of the handrail at any time. Some users with limited balance will want to steady themselves using the handrail before they move onto the sloped surface. If you are building an exterior ramp and live in an area where there is lots of snow or rain, having a covered ramp would be ideal.
Using tactile and contrasting coloured strips on the ground surface across the top and bottom of ramp slopes alerts users to a change from a level surface to an inclining or declining surface. Drainage should be carefully considered to avoid the accumulation of water on the ramp surface, particularly where it might freeze and cause a slippery surface. Ramps can be either prefabricated or site-constructed in various configurations and out of various materials.
Before commencing the construction of any ramp, it is always a good idea to contact your local building department to find out whether a building permit is required. Building permits are generally not required when the changes in level are minor and a ramp is an integral part of landscaping (sloped sidewalks, re-grading, etc.), or when a portable ramp is used. Portable ramps are usually made of aluminum, generally come in various lengths from 900 to 2,400 mm (35 to 94 in.) and are useful for overcoming smaller changes in level such as a curb or a couple of steps. While they can be a cost-effective solution to overcome smaller changes in level, safety and usability should always be considered. Portable ramps can usually be purchased through local home healthcare and medical supply retailers or ordered on-line. Modular ramp systems incorporate sloped surfaces of varying lengths, as well as landings, guards and handrails, and can be designed and assembled to meet the specific requirements of almost any situation. When using modular ramping systems, it is important to provide a stable and firm base, and the potential effects of ground settlement and frost heave should be carefully considered when locating and fastening a prefabricated ramp system.
Using a modular ramp system may be a practical and cost-effective solution where a temporary ramp is required, as they are quicker and easier to assemble and disassemble than site-constructed ramps. Modular systems can usually be ordered through your local home healthcare and medical supply retailers, or on-line. The three most common types of site-constructed ramp systems are made of poured concrete, interlocking brick and wood framing. In a residential setting, poured concrete ramps are typically used to overcome smaller changes in level. Concrete ramps can be easily configured in most shapes and can easily incorporate handrails, curbs and landings of any shape and size (see Figure 8). Constructing a concrete ramp could be tackled by a homeowner as a do-it-yourself project, but unless you are familiar with techniques of forming, pouring, tamping, finishing and curing of concrete, this type of work is best left to the experts. Interlocking brick is frequently used as a material for outdoor ramps due to its flexibility, as well as the variety of colours, sizes and textures that are available.
Periodic lifting and relaying of some bricks will be necessary to ensure a safe and level surface.
The surface of interlocking brick tends to be “bumpy,” so if you use a wheelchair and your threshold for dealing with vibration is low, an interlocking brick ramp may not be the best choice. Constructing an interlock brick ramp is relatively simple and may be a realistic do-it-yourself project for homeowners. The cost of interlocking brick ramps can vary greatly depending on the type of pavers chosen and features such as handrails, guards and curbs.
Wood-framed ramps usually incorporate a framed structure constructed from standard lumber and usually finished with either plywood sheets or wood decking (see Figures 3 and 4).
Consider the following recommendations to maximize resource efficiency, environmental responsibility and provide a healthier housing environment. When a landscaping approach is used for ramping, incorporate a drip irrigation system, as well as native grasses, native trees and shrubs.
Exterior wood-framed ramps should be constructed on a firm and stable base, with proper footings to minimize the effect of settlement and frost heave.
If decking is used as a finish material, the gaps between the boards should be no more than 6 mm (? in.) and the decking should run perpendicular to the path of travel.
Wood-framed ramps need to be carefully designed to safely support the loads they have to carry, including people, equipment and snow.

A safety railing used as a barrier to prevent encroachment or accidental falling from height. An element that is normally grasped by hand for support at stairs, ramps and other places where needed for safety of users. A flat platform incorporated into a ramp, normally used at the top and bottom of ramps, and at changes in direction. This principle focuses on providing equitable access for everyone in an integrated and dignified manner. This principle implies that the design of the house, or product has been developed considering a wide range of individual preferences and abilities throughout the life cycle of the occupants. The layout and design of the home and devices should be easy to understand, regardless of the user’s experience or cognitive ability. The provision of information using a combination of different modes, whether using visual, audible or tactile methods, will ensure that everyone is able to use the elements of the home safely and effectively. This principle incorporates a tolerance for error, minimizing the potential for unintended results. This principle deals with limiting the strength, stamina and dexterity required to access spaces or use controls and products.
This principle focuses on the amount of room needed to access space, equipment and controls. June 1, 2013 By Larry Leave a Comment There are a number of reasons why you would want to build a shed ramp which includes but is not limited to moving heavy machinery, a lawn mower, a small tractor or probably even a motorcycle.
A well constructed ramp makes it easy for you to easily take out or put in anything large with wheels. Building a shed ramp which is too steep will obviously also make it dangerous if you want to move heavy objects. You will obviously want to build a ramp which makes it easy for you to personally take out and put items into your barn or shed. Many machines have an undercarriage and so ensure they can go over the threshold of what your steep ramp can bear. So a rubberized floor or probably an anti slip type paint will help by adding some friction. There are many other things that you will need to bear in mind in addition to the above mentioned ones. Once you know exactly what you’re moving it becomes easily to plan the ramp in great detail prior to starting construction. Get Instant Access To a Free 8x12 Storage Shed Plan Worth $27Step-By-Step Easy To Follow Instructions, Blueprints & Material ListsFull Blown Diagrams and Detailed Photos! Four Types Of Garden Sheds (Gambrel, Gable, Lean To, SaltBox) 4 CommentsThere are four main types of garden sheds. To do this we set out to make the costs as low as possible whist designing a simple self build ramp kit that feels just like a professionally built ramp when you ride it.
We are confident this is the most economic way to get your own ramp with a professionally built feel to it. As with all our work we continue to progress new designs and different kit sizes are being developed to expand the range. For information on available sizes, delivery times, costs or just helpful advice contact us by phone or email.
This is our smaller, more affordable, solid wood, natural tongue and grove northern pine shed.
If you are in need of some extra storage space, but you also want something unique to decorate your backyard with, this shed has all that you are looking for: natural wood, modern design, and an inviting interior.
The smell of slow growth Northern pine will give you a cottage feel to this well crafted garden shed. Providing both stairs and a ramp at changes in level will allow people to choose the option that best suits their needs, resulting in a flexible and more universally accessible design. Using ramps for greater changes in level requires a great deal of space — which may or may not be practical. A safe path with a gentle slope can be built without railings (unless there are abrupt drop-offs on either side, or users need them), resulting in an integrated, low-key design that does not look like a traditional ramp. This results in a more noticeable structure, although its visual impact can be minimized through creative design, landscaping and finishes. Curved ramps are not recommended as they make steering a wheelchair, walker or scooter very difficult.
In addition, landings, which are required at the top and bottom of a ramp, at all changes in direction and where the run is longer than 9 m (30 ft.), further increase the space requirements for ramps. Slopes of 1 in 15, 1 in 18 or 1 in 20 require less effort and are recommended if the primary users have limited strength or stamina, as they may be easier to use without assistance. One possible exception to this recommendation is when a ramp is being constructed solely for use as a secondary exit from your home in an emergency situation: in this case a steeper ramp may be acceptable if there is not enough space to construct a 1 in 12 ramp.
In such cases, a slope of 1 in 10 or even 1 in 8 may be acceptable — but be sure to try it out first! Also, be sure that protruding objects such as air conditioners, window flower boxes or low awnings do not overhang a ramp or its landings.
A circular shape 30 to 40 mm (1-3?16 to 1-9?16 in.) in diameter is appropriate for most people, although children and other persons with small hands may prefer smaller sizes (see Figure 7). Handrails should extend horizontally for at least 300 mm (12 in.) beyond the starting and ending points of any sloped surface. Edge protection is required where the edges of ramps are not at grade or adjacent to a wall to prevent someone from wheeling off the edge of the ramp. The building department may also be a great source of information on how best to design and construct a ramp in your area. However, building permits are usually required for longer ramps or where there is a significant change in level.
They are an excellent choice for temporary use but their lack of handrails and their steeper slopes do not make them appropriate for many people. They are usually fabricated from metal components and are available in standard “off-the-shelf” sizes or customized. Moulds (forms) are built to temporarily support the concrete, which is poured over steel reinforcing bars, until the concrete sets. The modular nature of interlocking brick ramps allows them to be configured to almost any shape (see Figure 9). It is quite common for some of the individual bricks to settle or heave, resulting in a potential tripping hazard for users. Your local lumber store or building material supplier is a great source for installation guides and other “how-to” information. The use of decking will result in a somewhat “bumpy” surface, which may not be appropriate for some people. Local building codes should be consulted for specific design and construction requirements. It implies that the design is appealing to everyone and provides an equal level of safety for all users. Principle 4 encourages the provision of information through all of our senses — sight, hearing and touch — when interacting with our home environment.
This implies design considerations that include fail-safe features and gives thought to how all users may use the space or product safely.

This includes designing for the appropriate size and space so that all family members and visitors can safely reach, see and operate all elements of the home. You need to consider the elements below during the planning and construction phase of the rank. The degree at which the ramp will slope will mainly depend on what you intend on moving into the shed. Generally, ramps around 20 to 30 degrees will suffice when it comes to moving medium sized objects and even some large objects like your washing machine. Think how difficult pushing heavy items can be up a steep ramp or even moving them down it. Some people may think that having a large 40 degree slope and lots of driving room is enough but in fact this is not really the case. So you need at least six inches under the sides of your doors opening which makes it easier for you to take in and out machinery. You can also make your ramp smooth but a smooth ramp is dangerous because things can slip down just as easily as they can slip up. Some galvanized wire or probably some fabricated metal sheeting with tiny spikes will improve resistance and make things easier to move up and down. The build will take 1-2 days depending on the size of your ramp and is an incredibly satisfying project to complete. Ideally paving slabs as these give a good solid base.A  They can be arranged in a small grid pattern, which is less than 30% of that needed for a small shed base. Get all the garden tools out from your basement and garage and into this large designated area. The cozy interior and extra large glass doors and windows let in plenty of light and create a great area for crafting or other hobbies. The cozy interior and extra large glass doors and windows let in plenty of light for crafting and other hobbies.
A house or dwelling that is designed and constructed to reflect the principles of universal design will be safer and more accommodating to the diverse range of ages and abilities of people who live in and visit these homes. If you are faced with a big change in level, installing a lift or residential elevator may be a better strategy than constructing a ramp (see Accessible Housing by Design — Lifts and Residential Elevators). In some cases, depending on the length of the ramp, landings may be required as resting points.
Steeper slopes may also be acceptable when independent use is not a priority and assistance is always available, but check your local building code to see what slopes are permissible.
Ensuring there is enough turning space is an application of the universal design principle of size and space for approach and use.
When deciding on ramp location, consider its position in relation to the driveway, the parking areas and the entrance, as well as existing landscape items such as trees, shrubs, etc.
The surface of concrete ramps should be broom-finished (a coarse broom is dragged over the almost-set concrete) to create a slightly roughened, slip-resistant finish, which is very durable. Such reinforced concrete ramps should be designed and inspected by a structural engineer, and constructed by a licensed contractor.
The granular fill is a critical component of the ramp system as it drains water away from underneath the bricks — minimizing settlement and the effects of the freeze-thaw cycle.
If you are familiar with basic wood-framing techniques, the construction of a wood-framed ramp could be a realistic do-it-yourself project. You will also need to consider prevailing local building codes which dictate exactly what type of ramps you can build.
For the low price you will open up long forgotten areas of your house and finally have a private work area just for you. The Wales garden shed is equipped with large doors for easy access, two windows to let in a lot of sunlight, and a long canopy perfect for a veranda, so you can spend time inside and out. Also, because of greater visibility of the inside from the outside this shed is a perfect playhouse for your kids.
The natural wood, modern design, and an inviting interior will make the perfect pool house or garden shed.
The physical and monetary costs associated with both options should be fully explored when deciding which option will accommodate the greatest number of users. For example, if your porch is 18 inches above ground level, the ramp would have to be 18 feet long — and that does not include any landings! Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted. You can use plywood or natural wood boards which you can purchase at your local home improvement store. The design of this shed makes for not only a useful storage facility but also as a decorative center piece of your yard.
Try out ramps recently built in your community at the post-office, bank or municipal offices, for example, to see whether a 1 in 12 (1:12) ramp will work for you at home. Alternatively, ramps can be finished with a rubberized material such as those used for surfacing children’s playgrounds.
The quality of the non-mix lumber is seen by dominantly knot free and tight angular rings that ensure the structure’s density.
If you are looking for a modern shed, pool house or the best looking structure for your backyard – this is your answer.
Use the following suggestions to help with the planning process:Step 1Determine where you want the deck. The determining factor will be how much concrete you need.Step 4To determine the number of 60-pound bags needed to fill a 12-inch-diameter hole, divide the depth of the hole in inches by 9. Make a reference mark, and put an X to the right of it.After these first two measurements, continue marking the boards every 16 inches until you run out of board. Each "X" denotes the side of the mark where the joist attaches.Step 3Transfer the reference marks and Xs to the other three boards. Unclamp the boards and transfer the reference marks and Xs from the edges to the faces of the ledger board and the ribbon joist.Step 4Attach joist hangers to the ledger board and the ribbon joist. Align the inside edge of the joist hanger with the reference mark on the face of the board. Fasten the double joists together the same way you did the boards for the beam.Step 3Slide the next joist into the joist hangers on the ledger board and ribbon joist. Continue this process until all the joists are in place.Step 4When you begin laying the decking, it's a good idea to lay a couple of pieces of plywood on top of the deck about 2 feet from the wall. The plywood gives you a good working platform until there's enough decking from which to work.Step 5Lay the decking so it runs across the joists and parallel to the house. Line the 7-inch mark up with the edge of the board and trace the outside of the square again.
Continue sliding the square up the 2 x 12 and tracing it until you have the correct number of steps plus one.Step 3Extend the bottom run line all the way through the 2 x 12 and cut on that line.

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Author: admin | 04.08.2014 | Category: Shed Prices

Comments »

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