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Offset woodturning projects,keter storage shed 8 x 11,ebay used garden sheds for sale - For Begninners

At the April MWA club meeting Duane Gemelke showed us how he makes his unique wall sculptures. A small hole is drilled into the center, this will make it easier later to center the board on the lathe. A less secure method (and hence not recommended) is to use double faced tape to glue the disks together. A staple during the yearly tool-making sessions is a simple cove tool, this works better than most other tools but still leaves some tear-out.
It is a lot easier to finish the surface now than later when the individual pieces have been cut.
A table saw or chop saw might be used, but the thick kerf and the danger involved cutting the last small pieces do not make those the ideal tools. To cut the wedged-shaped strips, duane uses another jig: a board with wood strips affixed to it to make a tapering jig-like jig. Once a pleasing shape has been found, draw the witness line and finish the newly exposed parts of the wood. Now on to final assembly: First glue up pairs of strips, using plenty of clamps and removing any squeeze-out immediately. As the segments are glued together, the resulting structures can have shapes not well suited for regular clamps. Once all pieces are glued together and have dried, the back is sanded flat, as assembly will always result in some slight unevenness.
For decoration he added some small V-cuts, which he then bruned with a plain piece of wire. Next Alan turned a more traditional top, and demonstrated chattering techniques as a method of texturing. The disks, as well as any test paper used for marbling, need to be coated with an alum solution. For marbling, essentially colors are dripped on a bed of a thicker fluid, in this case carrageenan dissolved in water. To dip the disks for our future tops, a dentist hook tool can be pushed inside the hole drilled into the disk.
The mabelized material is then carefully rinsed in plain tap water, and allowed to dry thoroughly which may take several days. The bed can be reduced several times, the leftover paint can be skimmed off with newspaper strips before applying new paint. Here are some Bobbin-making instructions and samples provided by our guests from the Minnesota Lace Society.
But back to the meeting: Duane Gemelke gave a great introduction to tool making, followed by an opportunity for us to make our own tools.
I will not go into the details of making the specific tools as it depends a lot on the available materials and tools.
The above splitting of the pipe fittings leaves one end of each ferrule to be with a rather sharp burr.
Now with the lathe at slow speed a file can be used to true the swan edge and round over the outside edge. In today’s MWA meeting world-renowned turner Alan Lacer talked about wood finishes, specifically how they apply to wood turnings. Another option is to use the burr of a scraper with the scraper on edge so that just the burr cuts at an angle to the wood.
When sanding spindle work, end a sanding grid by stopping the lathe and sanding larger flat sections with the grain.
Safety: Note that rags used to apply most finishes are a fire hazard due to the heat generated during the drying process! Many finishes these days do not list ingredients, making it very hard to predict their performance.
A very easy way to evaluate a finish is a drip test: Apply a few drops of finish on a piece of transparent plastic.
Mineral oil (which is suited for human consumption) is frequently used for food bowls and cutting boards. There are some specialty oils available for finishing, such as polymerized tung oil (a favorite for gun stocks) or polymerized linseed oil. According to Allan one of the better brands with consistent high quality varnish is Waterlox.
The above mix results in a pleasing and durable finish, suitable for items handled frequently. It is liked by many turners as it is easily available, fast to use with predictive results. The downsides to Lacquer are the strong fumes it creates during application and while curing.
Shellac has a lot of great properties: It can go above or below any other finish (the only finish that can do that), is easily applied and repaired, new coats slightly dissolve and bond with previous coats. Shellac also is a finish that minimizes vapor penetration into wood, preventing wood from moving. Downsides are that it only tolerates moderate handling, which makes it unsuited for items such as pens. In some cases the color of shellac can also be a problem, though the blond varieties are very lightly colored and typically just add a bit of warmth to the wood.
Some oil rich woods can be polished to a great luster without the use of any finish at all.
The appearance of some finishes can be further improved by polishing the finish, though care must be taken to not work through the finish. Tonight a very entertaining Brad Hubert introduced us to the art of box turning at the monthly MWA meeting.
Brad briefly mentioned the back hollowing method, a method to very quickly hollow out wood which amongst others is featured on the (scary) Richard Raffan videos. Smaller boxes are often used for jewellery, so Brad using flocking materials to finish the insides of such boxes. The outer half of the two part pulley (it is a variable diameter pulley to allow for speed changes) is secured on the axle with a c-ring and two set screws. I started tapping the pulley with a mallet, but after a few taps I realized that this would probably damage the bearings. I cleaned the axle and the opening in the pulley by sanding them lightly, and applied a small amount of White Lightning bicycle grease on the axle.
Yesterday MWA meeting was about turning eggs, and unlike my Easter Eggs from last year these were solid.
Pretty much any kind of wood of appropriate size can be used to turn eggs, though it should be reasonable dry to avoid later splitting.
All the remaining work can be performed with a large Skew, only for the final part off a smaller Skew comes in handy. At tonight’s MWA meeting Jim Jacobs and Steve Tiedman demonstrated many ways to chuck wood onto a lathe. To turn the perches for those miniature birdhouses Jim has another trick: A block is chucked into a scroll chuck, and a hole drilled into the wood block, easiest with a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock as Steve demonstrated. Another MWA member demonstrated how simple (and cheap!) PVC endcap from the plumbing department can be mounted onto a chuck. Another really helpful gadget: When turning a tenon for a scroll chuck, I like it to be as big as possible while at the same time being not so wide that the jaws protrude sideways from the chuck to reduce the danger of injury. The basic how to is on the second of the two Sorby disks where he demonstrates the steb centers. The process is deceptively simple: Turn a sort of platter with bead and cove pattern, cut it into strips (straight or wedge shaped), and glue the strips back together at an offset. The most secure way is a paper glue joint: Using wood glue glue the flattened sides of the disk and the scrap together sandwiching some craft paper or paper cut from a brown paper shopping bag. Duane prefers Heavy Duty Carpet Tape, which contains a thin layer of fabric (available ate Menards and other home improvement or hardware stores). This tool does not require the bevel to rub, and it also allows to work uphill without creating excessive tear-out.
The tools sides need to be ground slightly as unlike with spindle work the beads on the face will curve. An oil finish can be used, but to finish the exposed areas after the cuts will require time.
In our example Duane used slightly wedge-shaped strips, but straight cuts can be used as well for a different finish look.
The thin strips are harder to sand than the larger pieces, so always sand before the next cut.
The slit allows to draw a witness mark to the underside of the strips to make it easy to find the desired position during final assembly.
Angle iron cane be used between the strips and the clamps to even out the clamping pressure. Duane devised an assembly table that allows round pieces of woods to be placed in various holes drilled in the board. Contrasting woods can be glued up resulting in the coves being a different color than the beads. It is available to MWA members who have signed up to the forum in the forums Library section.
He started out by showing us a rather large collection of tops in many different variations. For that he used a small piece of Osage Orange, slightly sharpened and hammered right into the head stock of the lathe. But that those rules are not written in stone Alan showed with the next top he turned: a pear-shaped top, designed to stand on the small end of the shape.

He also added some decorative lines with an acid-free pen, which are available in many colors in art supply stores.
Many turners are familiar with chattering as an unwanted effect whenever vibrations occur during turning. Nearly any turning tool, held lightly, can be made to chatter, but easiest is the use of purpose-made chattering tools. It only takes a moment to use one of the above mentioned pens with a blunt tip to transform the surface. These tops consist of two parts: The disk-like body of the top, which is going to be marbled, and an axle. Then he prepares the upper service, and the lower surface as good as possible before parting it off.
The colors are then manipulated by means of combs (toothpicks in a piece of styrofoam), brushes or even cat whiskers. If the results are not pleasing, the process can be repeated one the disks had time to dry. The meeting started with guests from the Minnesota Lace Society giving an intro about lace making, what tools are required, especially the lace bobbins.
While many dense hardwoods can be used to make lace bobbins, Lisa chose bone for todays demonstration. He also invited us to visit his private gallery, and there was some absolutely stunning work to be seen! When turning for example a bowl within one revolution on the lathe the wood will be cut with the grain in some sections, and across the grain in others. A bowl gouge with an Irish grind (many variations are known as fingernail grind, Ellsworth grind etc.) can be used for a light shearing cut or shear scraping by using the sides of the tool presented at a steeper than usual angle. Alan’s favorite is a purple ceramic-based sanding paper from 3M, currently only available commercially or in large quantities. For bowls using and angle-drill with a cup (soft or hard) and a sanding disk makes sanding on the lathe (with the lathe running relatively slow) fairly easy. Pretty much all finishes available today are save for contact with food when fully cured (which can take some months for certain finishes).
Even worse, some finishes have a limited shelf life (sometimes as little as six months) but do not list a date. From this you can tell drying time, color, hardness when dried and or cured (not the same).
It is transparent and does not change the color of the wood other than the wetting effect common to all oils, which often highlights the beauty of the grain. However the do not build up significantly, so they do not tend to create a finish with a deep luster. These oils cure much faster than their non-polymerized base materials, and may even build up a finish. At least three coats are recommended, wait at least two days (better two weeks) between coats. It dries extremely fast, in fact consumer-grade Lacquer typically contains retardants to make it dry a little slower so it is easier to work with. However most commercial pen finishes contain mostly shellac and wax, because they are easy and fast to apply with a great appearance. The alcohol changes the chemical makeup of shellac, and after a certain period it will no longer cure properly. Application is much like a friction type finish: use a lint-free cloth with very little texture and apply the mix on the wood spinning in the lathe. It is easy and fast to use, but does not stand up to use making it suitable only for decorative pieces or to give a piece that extra sheen to facilitate sales by applying on top of other finishes. However one should make sure they do not contain the solvent toluol, as that can react with other finishes to make them milky in appearance.
Cocobolo is one such wood, and in fact finishes do not easily bond with cocobolo because of it’s high oil content. For this Allen recommends a steel-wool like synthetic product from Germany which is making an appearance in the US market. I start between centers, turn the wood round, add a rebate to both ends for later chucking , and cut the top and bottom appart with a saw or a thing parting tool.
Then he uses a special side-ground scraper to cut the rebate into the lid that will later fit over the bottom. He starts hollowing by making a small dimple into the center, then he uses a long drill epoxied into a handle to drill out the center.
I ended up wedging a piece of wood between the pulley halves, using the speed-control handle to apply some pressure, release, rotate the pulley a bit and repeat. The pulley went together a lot easier (yes I remembered to put the belt in first), and hopefully next time this procedure will be a lot easier. For example Steve showed how a low cost old fashioned dead center could be modified and used as a drive center. Mount into the morse taper, drill a small hole, glue in a nail and fashion the head of the nail into a point. While for the body of a miniature birdhouse could simply use a dowel and drill a hole through it, it is hard to get that hole perfectly concentric. Wrap some non-skid fabric from the home department around it, and it can be used to reverse-chuck a bowl to finish most of the bottom. That endcap was about 5” in diameter, and the closed end has a square protrusion, which fit perfectly into a chuck. Also for some types of chucks the tenon should be sized such that the jaws of the chuck form a circle, that maximizes the surface area on which they grip. If you came to find out more about that chuck, click here to see my original post along with links to instructions.
Went into the shop thinking about turning a bowl from some mystery wood, but figured I better warm up a bit first. Simply wiped on a thin layer with a piece of paper towel, then wiped it of with another piece of paper towel. Doing it on the lathe, with the tail stock registered to the hole in the disk will make it easy to align it to the scrap on the faceplate. Mark your layout with small marks, mount the disk on the lathe, and transfer the marks in the round by rotating the disk.
On larger lathes a short gouge with a short handle could be used, though on smaller lathes it will hit the lathe body. However being basically a scraper the beading tool will result in some tear out, so the cup tool will be needed for a final cleanup cut. An easier way is to use a lacquer from a spray can, but due to the strong (and unhealthy) fumes a well ventilated area is mandatory to use this finish. For the first cut mark a center line down the back of the disk (again the small hole in the center will make this easy), and transfer the line over to the sides. For symmetric work, two jigs are required with the taper angle reversed, one for each half of the wood. Then glue the pairs together, clamp and clean, and continue until all pieces are glued together. Some of these came all the way from Japan, where tops are a favorite past time and also quite a source of competition!
For this he used a commercially available hard-plastic insert that made the point of the top. These usually consist of a piece of thin steel mounted in a tool handle (look out for Duane’s next Tool-Making session!
One can even lightly sand afterwards to take the paint of the high spots for yet another effect.
Alan likes to just pressure fit these to parts together, so that in case the axle is damaged it can be replaced without having to discard a nicely decorated body.
Once a pleasing pattern has been achieved, the object to be marblized is carefully deposited on the bed.
I missed some great demonstrations at the MWA, though I did manage to attend Jim Jacobs great demo in November on how to make ornamental birdhouses. Like our turning tools, lace bobbins come in many different variations, depending on what technique is used and what country and region they come from. Duane gave a rundown how to make each of these tools, then we started making whichever tools we liked.
This end is then cut with a thin blade about halfway towards the chuck end, and a second cut at a 90 degree angle. It has to be said that Jim went above and beyond to make this an enjoyable day, many thanks to him! For finishing Allan takes the burr of with a honing tool, then creates a new lighter burr with a burnisher. To avoid visible sanding rings using this method one has to go to a higher grid, depending on the wood I typically go to 400 or 600 grid. Environmental concerns (solvent release into the atmosphere, proper disposal of left overs) may further sway you to avoid certain finishes. This often allows to determine likely ingredients of a finish, and more importantly gives you data for some of the basic parameters of a finish. Application is simple: flood the surface, let it penetrate for a while, then wipe off the excess. Traditionally it comes in soft, medium and hard varieties, and sometimes with additional properties such as UV protection etc. It is available in many varieties, containing unknown quantities of ingredients and solvents. But the film finish tends to leave the wood cold, and it tends to build up with a bit of a haze.

It is available in various colors from very light blond to a fairly dark color, all also available de-waxed.
He has permanently marked the drill in inch increments (I meant to ask how, seemed like he turned in thin lines on a metal lathe.
By repeatedly cutting, stopping the lathe and test-fitting the lid the correct size is found. Brad kind if glossed over the detail of turning the bottom of the bottom part and removing the rebate used for chucking. I guess a pulley puller or maybe some heat could have helped the situation, but alas I had neither available. While I knew many of these from the various catalogues and web sites, it was great to see them in person and to get comments from people who have used them. I used to always set the chuck to the proper width, measure it with calipers and use that to gauge the size of the tenon. A small leftover cherry block, that was supposed to become a box but a knot prevented that. To turn the bottom I pressed it into a piece of scrap wood on my faceplate, it happened to have a grove that was almost perfect and needed just a little tuning.
If the wood does have some figure, a thicker board can be re-sawn to get a book-matched appearance. For the actual cut Duane prepared a jig similar to a cross cutting sled, but adapted to the bandsaw. Duane prefers water-based clear drying PVA glue, such as Titebond Molding & Trim Wood Glue. So Duane came up with another clever solution: Keyholes cut into round pieces of formica or a similar material. But even smaller tops can be turned (and painted!) as the photos prove (note the ball point pen shown for scale in one of the photos!). Drilling the hole for this point is often a bit frustrating, as the head and tail stock rarely line up perfectly enough for the point to end up exactly in the center.
Lightly applied to the surface of the wood, either with the tip or the full flat side of the tool, soon you will here the typical chattering sound. And like turners, lace makers have their preferences about how their tools should look and feel. To prepare the raw bones she cuts of the top and bottoms to expose the mark inside, then she repeatedly cooks the bones until the water stays clean and most of the fat has been cooked out of the bones. Other than that the technique is very similar to spindle turning, just everything en miniature. Duane had a very helpful jig for this: 2 Wooden blocks with a square cross section, one end each turned to a diameter so the pipe fitting would just fit over it. Now with the ferrule mounted, a screw is screwed into the center from the front, expanding the four quarters slightly and securing the ferrule. One end of the wood is turned to just fit into the hole in the blank, the other side flat with a small indentation in the center to rest on the tip of the life center with the flat resting on the cup makes that a lot easier. Also excessive sanding can bring a piece out of round, as the sand paper cuts different across and with the grain.
I have been using that paper exclusively for the last 2 years, it is much superior to other papers I have tried. A cured finish leaves behind substances that are actually used in food production (mineral oil, plant-based oils, shellac, wax), or substances that are inert (film finishes such as polyurethane or varnish). However these finishes are a relatively recent addition to the finishing market, and given fast-paced development they hold promise for the future.
These days however many polishing compounds found in automotive departments offer a easier and faster to use solution, though it requires a little experimentation as the abrasive quantities of such compounds are not known until tried.
Once round, he uses a bandsaw to cut them to the desired lengths for the lids and bottoms, careful to keep the pairs together for best grain alignment. He also foregoes the rebates on the lids and just chucks in the entire top, which saves material if you have a big enough chuck. He turns the top of the lid to the desired shape, then works his way down the side and in the process the masking tape is turned away. We do that by magic he says… That was a little disappointing as that part gives many beginners pause.
Once a rough egg shape has developed and some of the waste wood has been turned away to have plenty of room for the tool, the tail stock is removed. The remainder is turned round to the diameter of the hole drilled into the future birdhouse body. To support the tail-stock end, Jim removed the point from a live center, leaving just the cup. Jim and Steve had a handy little jig to make that easier: made from wood it looked like one end of an open ended wrench, the width of the opening being the perfect width for the tenon. The results are very pleasing: a slight satin sheen, and it really highlights the iridescence found in that particular piece of cherry wood. Flatten the scrap using a light sheer cut and frequently check flatness with a steel ruler. This will result in a secure bond, but the paper will allow it to be separated once the turning is done.
Once the sculpture is assembled, a final coat of some other finish (lacquer, shellac etc) and then be applied. The disk is affixed to the sled using a couple of small pieces of double-faced tape, then cut. Drill a shallow hole the thickness and with of the formica pieces using a Forstner drill bit, and a slightly deeper hole (but not to deep to come close to the surface on the other side) where the keyhole will be located. Jim made kits available at a low price, and I turned several birdhouses for friends and families. I will attach some scans to this entry that point out some basics, some examples for lace bobbins, and also some references.
Lisa turned the entire bobbin using just a small skew chisel, a perfect too (once mastered) for the job. One of these blocks on each end of the pipe fitting, the blocks clamped down to the table, and there is a handy holder to hold the pipe fitting while cutting it. One of the problems of Varnish is that today it has become a synonym for a very large family of finishes with vastly different properties.
For this reason folks sometimes mix waxes, for example by adding a bit of bees wax to carnauba wax. Brad does not sand them, he says with sharp tools and sufficient practice the finish obtainable by a scraper is fine enough to leave. These markings help him to gauge the desired depth (Brad reminded us several times that the inside of a box MUST be smaller than the outside…). At least for now I prefer a snug fit (it can always be loosened up later), that makes turning the outside of the lid easier. While working on the top light cuts are essential, any catch will most likely send the lid flying.
The egg shape is further refined, leaving just enough wood at the head stock end to drive the egg. And when made from wood of the proper thickness it can also be used to gauge the depth of the tenon. Other possible alternatives to try might be Hickory or some (though expensive) exotic woods.
Now our work disk can be mounted on the lathe using the tail stock registered on the center hole to press the disk against the scrap disk. That serves as guide for how far down to turn the blank, and the ferrule can be test-fitted on the blank without having to remove it! Many manufacturers do not list ingredients, and it is impossible to tell if they started with a good quality varnish or not. The waxes can be mixed by heating in a double boiler, or the can be made into a paste by adding turpentine. Once the shape is fine and the surface smooth, the egg can be sanded and finished right on the lathe. The tail stock will slightly pry the wood apart, and thus securing the body of the birdhouse on the mandrel. It should be deep enough to allow for maximum surface area, but it should never bottom out in the chuck. Flatten the work piece using the same technique used to flatten the scrap on the face plate. Depending on the smoothness of the cut, start with 150 or 220 grid sandpaper, and work up to 600. Many products using the name tung oil or even pure tung oil contain additional ingredients or sometimes no tung oil at all. I was relieved to see that he stops the lathe for test fits, unlike a practice shown on some professional turning videos.
The problem here is that the bottom can’t easily be secured with masking tape like the lid, and also that the bottom is typically deeper than the top, so there is more lever action while turning.
I typically use the dead center to help support the work as long as possible, and by making very light cuts. Once the egg is free some quick sanding and finish touchup at that end and the egg is finished.

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Author: admin | 09.05.2014 | Category: Simple Shed Plans

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