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My sons and I decided to recycle discarded pallets by converting them into outdoor patio furniture.
When sourcing pallets, ensure that you get them from your local retailers such as Spar, Pick n Pay or your local green grocer. Using the pick axe or crow bar, remove the inner planks (as per image 3 and 4) of six of the pallets so that you have frames for the table and the two chairs. Make the angled cuts on the ends of the side blanks using a sliding miter saw, table saw or circular saw.
Use a sabre saw to cut the arm brackets, and remove any saw marks with a pass from a block plane. Cut the arm stretcher slightly oversize, and use the table saw to rip the angle on its front edge. Before installing the seat slats, you must install the plugs in the back slats because they will be inaccessible after the seat slats are installed. Use a small brush to spread a bit of polyurethane glue in each screwhole, and install the plugs. Cut the seat slats to size, bore and counterbore pilot holes in them, and round over their top edges as you did with the other chair components. Sand the chair with 120-grit sandpaper to remove rough spots and machine marks from the face of the lumber. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Dynamic Bidding: To accommodate last minute bids, any bid placed within the last 10 minutes will extend the auction by an additional 10 minutes. Most of these retailers are more than willing to part with them as long as you can carry them away yourself.

You will need to two pallets for the base of the table and two more for each of the chairs. Remove all the nails and pieces of plank that could not be taken off with the pick axe or crow bar. Apply glue to the bottom frame, then glue the two frames together, top to bottom (see image 5). Add one full pallet on top for the seat area (don’t forget to apply glue before placing the full pallet on top of the base), then secure with screws (see image 6). The backrest is made with left over bits and bobs: using glue and screws, attach three upright planks to the back of the seat, then attach three planks sideways across the vertical planks (see image 7). To make an armrest, position two planks perpendicularly at one end of the chair, then glue and screw them together, as well as to the base and backrest (see image 8). I made the table in exactly the same way as the chairs, except that I used left over planks to make a solid slab for the top of the table.
We used some old sponge mattresses to make the cushions (cut to fit), which we covered in old curtain material. The sides of this chair also function as the rear legs and are the real foundation of the chair.
The most efficient tool for this is a combination drill and countersink bit chucked in a drill press, but the holes can be made accurately with a portable drill, or a drill and drill stand. Apply glue to the brackets, clamp them to the front legs and drilll pilot holes for the screws. Trace the radius profile on either end of the stretcher, and then use the sabre saw to cut the shape. Plane a bevel on the back bottom edge of the first seat slat to create a drainage space where the slat meets the chair back.

Stay away from chemical suppliers, as there could be toxins in the wood from the chemicals.
Repeat this step to make the armrest for the other side of the chair, and for the armrests on the other chair.
Cut to the waste side of the line and then work down to the line using a block plane and sandpaper. Driving screws into endgrain is generally not considered to be the best method of fastening.
Apply glue to the joint surfaces, and use clamps to temporarily hold the legs to the chair side assembly while you drive the screws to fasten the legs. Though plywood is obviously more difficult to cut than cardboard, the advantage of using it is that it is easy to make fine adjustments to the shape using sandpaper and a block plane. Use a featherboard firmly clamped to the saw table to ensure that the workpiece moves firmly along the fence, and also to ensure that it doesn't kick back.
Proceed across the chair back driving four screws through the front of each slat into each stretcher.
Note that since the screws on the bottom of the stretcher will not be visible, nor directly exposed to moisture, they do not need plugs.

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Author: admin | 04.08.2013 | Category: Small Storage Buildings

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