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Before any cutting-edge shaping begins, the iron is ground along the long edges to an angle matching the cheek angles of the plane, which are about 23°. I don’t actually measure the bevel angles of the iron as I hone them, but judge them by eye.
The first step in shaping the iron is to paint the face (the tool steel surface) with layout fluid. When grinding the  final cutting bevel angle, I set the tool rest at a low angle relative to the grinding stone (about as low as I can get) . The iron is resting flat on the tool rest, my forefinger acts as a fence against the proximal edge of the rest and my thumb is pressing on the iron face to advance or retreat the iron as I grind. I typically grind the middle bevel first, then the left bevel and save the fillet bevel for last. I also use a WorkSharp where I put the same grit on both faces of the glass plate and work my way through a number of grits (in stages from #36 to #2,000 grit, depending on the amount of work to be done). Throughout this honing process, I focus on the two long bevels, testing the progress by reinserting the iron in the plane body.
Once I am completely happy with the two long bevels, I turn my attention to tweaking the fillet bevel.
More pictures may help but I would like to suggest that annotations added to the existing pictures might be more helpful as well. Given all that, is there any possibility that a Make A Panel Raising Plane DVD will become available in the future? It just dawned on me that those first four drawings above represent the sole profile of the plane body as seen from the toe of the plane and don’t represent the plane iron.
I have to admit that I’ve read the article several times and I would love to consider making an attempt at it.
Does anyone have any leads on where to find a nice chunk of quartersawn beech to make this plane or others? If these guy had taken a class with you, or worked with you in Roy’s shop they would understand and be a little kinder about your contributions. I haven’t taken the class, but I agree that the article and this post stretches the bounds of my woodworking, which is a good thing!
I understand why the bevel raised panel was chosen for the article, but it would be interesting to see how more complex shapes were made. If Megan is reading this, would you please convert this post (pictures and all) to a pdf we can download and print. Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. To use the jig, position your workpiece to the blade, make sure you are aligned with the correct angle of your pin board layout, then make the cut right at and straight down your layout line.
To cut the other side of each pin – and here’s the cool part – simply reverse the jig as shown in the photo at right. Glen Huey is a former managing editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine, a period furniture maker and author of numerous woodworking books, videos and magazine articles. If the board is too wide for the band saw, why not flip the board and finish the rest of the cuts at that angle? Although introduced at the International Woodworking Fair in Atlanta in 2012, there has been relatively few published articles or blog posts written about the Excalibur Deluxe Router Table Kit from General International since its release. One last feature, and this is without a doubt why router lifts have become so popular, is the ease in changing router bits. Is it just poor video quality, or did i see lots of wobble as the router was raised and lowered? Router tables are great when they are small and can be tucked under the tablesaw extension, or you are working out of a really small shop. What you are telling us is that General International is offering a router table for $1100 and it doesn’t even come with a router?!?! Just for comparison sake you could go out an get a General Woodworking Machinery 40-250 M1 3 HP Wood Spindle Shaper for $1600. Listed in a General International sales flyer and on sale until August 31, 2013, the 40-200C (cast iron top) is priced at $1099.99. Tired of dragging clamps around my shop, I built this rack that brings them right to the job. I assembled the side frames separately before screwing them together with gussets at the top and a plywood shelf at the bottom. To make the half-round cutouts that hold the pipe clamps, I drilled centered holes in the 2×6 before I ripped it in half.
American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014. Disc sanders are invaluable for anyone working with small parts, such as toymakers, instrument builders, model makers and turners doing segmented work.
Your wood lathe provides an ideal platform for a shop-built disc sander that won’t cost you more than $50 and a few hours of shop time. TO BUY: Ernie’s latest book, “The Frugal Woodworker” (Fox Chapel) from which this story is excerpted. When setting up shop, probably the last place you should search for the tools you need is in a tool catalog. Truth is, most of those tools are essential, but just not for every shop and every woodworker. We set out to develop our own list of “must-have” tools for a shop that blends hand and power tools, but we quickly discovered that someone had already done the job for us – and done it well. One of Hayward’s best books, “Tools for Woodwork,” explains how to use most basic hand tools and hand-held power tools. These are the hand tools Hayward says you should purchase before you cut your first stick of wood. The following tools should be added to your kit as you encounter a need for them when building individual projects.
Hayward also showed several homemade devices that make your hand tools work more accurately. In addition to that list of hand tools, we think the well-equipped shop should start with these pieces of power equipment.
Christopher Schwarz is the former editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine and is now a contributing editor.

Chris is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking Magazine and the publisher at Lost Art Press. Woodworker James Oliver has built a massive workbench with French lines (tree trunk legs), English-style workholding (a twin-screw face vise) and some modern practicality (a quick-release vise in the end-vise position). When I first posted photos of Oliver’s bench in January, readers wanted to see more photos , not only of the bench, but of the shop.
I’m curious what that black thing that hangs out under the left end of the bench in the upper photo and is tucked under in the lower photo? Even though any photo of a workbench will stop me in my tracks—THAT is a jaw-dropping workbench. It never even occurred to me to use anything but a couple of shop scraps and 3 square drive screws to make mine from the description in your book. A short bevel on the right edge defines the fillet, the long bevel in the middle defines the angled face of the panel and the somewhat shorter bevel on the left defines the tongue that fits into the door or lid frame. The width of a bevel for cutting and slicing should be a bit more than twice (but less than three times) the thickness of the iron at the cutting edge.
As I get close to the lines, I begin to grind the iron to the precise shape using my eye as the guide. The approach to the cutting edge should be even and consistent in thickness throughout the process, and the bevel should be ground with only one facet across its face.
I use a Veritas tool rest, which is articulated and slotted for the stone, so I can get good support all the way along my iron as I grind.
With a good sense of touch and great care, it’s possible to have the iron rest flat on the bevel on the honing stone. For one-off irons, I generally use a medium diamond plate followed by Japanese stones (#800, #1,200 and #4,000 grit). The throughput with this device is amazing (I often sharpen 30-40 chisels and 30 block, jack and smoothing planes over a four-hour period). I check that the two bevels are parallel to the plane body profile, and that the intersection of the bevels matches the arris on the plane profile.  If the intersection is misplaced, both bevels must be reworked.
Maintaining this part of the iron fat until this point keeps me from being found slumped over my bench crying a bucket full of tears.
It took a lot of rereading and studying the pictures intently to finally discern what was being described.
I have a few other projects to finish up until then, but it’s something to keep on the back burner. Years since, it still ranks high in usage when I’m working on a large number of dovetails (but I generally teach and make hand-cut dovetails). A top bed and bottom base sandwich two supports that are cut on an appropriate angle for dovetails.
Place it on your band saw table, then cut into the jig just a bit so you have support right at the blade. After you turn the jig, the angle of cut reverses to align with the remaining layout line to complete your pins. I mark only on the show side of my board, therefore, I would have to go back and layout the other face then go back to the band saw.
Huey is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking, and author of the books “Fine Furniture for a Lifetime,” “Building Fine Furniture,” “Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture” and "Building 18th-century American Furniture," plus he's recorded a number of instructional DVDs. If you consider that a 3hp variable speed router will set you back about $350 then the final price difference is only $150 more. Why no power tool companies currently offer a fully integrated and outfitted router table is beyond me. Your lathe’s bed provides a rock-solid platform for the table, and the headstock and spindle powers the rotary action. The catalogs and supply stores are clogged with an array of tools, jigs and other equipment that all look absolutely essential. Hayward was a 20th-century woodworking writer who had been traditionally trained in professional English shops when both hand and power tools were common. At the back of that book is a “suggested kit for the man taking up woodwork seriously.” We’ve decided to print his basic list and illustration (at right) with our commentary following each entry. Smoothing plane: The smoothing plane is the last plane to touch the work before scrapers or sandpaper. Warrington hammer: These small hammers have a cross-pane on one end for starting brad nails. Nail punch, fine: A small tool for setting nail heads below the wood’s surface with a few short blows.
Mortise gauge: A marking gauge with two cutters to mark the two walls of a mortise simultaneously.
Surform tool: It looks like a cheese grater and is used for shaping curved and compound work, such as cabriole legs. Winding sticks: Two identically sized, straight sticks used to check boards for twisting and cupping. Scratch stock: A small tool with homemade cutters filed to cut small shapes, such as beads. Miter template: An appliance clamped to your work that allows you to chisel accurate miters. Oliver, who works part-time for Coastal Carvings in Coombs, British Columbia, obliged with these two other views of his bench and shop. Since I use a combination of machine and hand tools, I made these as stationary stands to stack timber on when using a buzzer (planner?), bench saw (table saw), etc.
Each iron is tapered, and of laminated construction – the tool-steel cutting edge is forge-welded to the face of the iron body.
I also make sure the iron is parallel over its length, or possibly slightly tapered away from the cutting edge. The fillet bevel is a side bevel and is quite steep, generating more of a scraping action than a cutting action. To check my progress, I hold the iron firmly to the bed with my thumb with the plane upside down and the toe facing to me. The arris between two adjacent bevels should be sharp, and at the cutting edge, perfectly bisect the angle between the two bevels. The cutting action happens in the center, between the right and left thirds of the wheel, back and forth.

Rather than push the iron straight down the stone, I hold the iron sideways so I’m honing along the length rather than the width of the bevel. Because I work on the upper surface of the machine, a finely attuned sense of touch is necessary to keep the bevels even.
Changing only one bevel will move the arris between the two bevels to one side or the other. For years I’ve been looking at old wood plane bodies, wondering how they made all those precision cuts. Agreed, it is very complex and probably not for everyone, but I thought it was very interesting and I am enjoying it thoroughly.
Once I understood what I was looking at, as well as what I should be looking at, the words made more sense. The way I look at it, if I can make a plane such as this then I could accomplish just about any other wood plane as well.
Some of the other commenters noted that this operation is probably beyond an average woodworkers skill and more importantly, time.
There appeared to be a great number of assumptions about the target audience but I was so lost in the jargon and lack of illustrations that I just laughed and moved along. Continue across the end of your board until all the cuts are made – half of all the pins are sawn. If the board does not fit between the band saw blade and the saw’s support column, you will not be able to cut the entire pin layout.
Plus the shaper will give you a better overall motor, more spindle travel than a router adjustment plate, a full cabinet base instead of a cheap-o light gauge angle base, integrated dust collection, cast iron top, and better efficiency at 220v. You would surely laugh at the idea of a $1100 table saw kit yet for some reason you praise it as a router table kit. Hayward wrote many classics, including “Woodwork Joints,” “Cabinetmaking for Beginners” and “English Period Furniture.” He also was the editor of England’s Woodworker Magazine. Plus, we’ve included a list of what we consider to be the essential and recommended power tools.
The window directly behind the bench is also home to a rack with striking and boring tools. Almost every year, I come up with some scheme to lay a wooden floor in both shops, but something (usually my love of eating meat once in a while) gets in the way. Sharpening this edge to a typical acute angle of 25° or so would give a bevel that is wide and thin and weak in terms of the type of cutting it does. The width of the fillet bevel could be the same as the thickness of the iron at that point or even a bit less. This reduces the chance of losing the temper of the iron as I work through this massive step. If you cut the fillet edge to size too soon – and make the iron undersized – you’ll have to grind away a lot of iron to recover. As you grind, check that the final width of the bevel is sufficiently wide to give a good cutting angle.
I thought the article was a bit wordy in the sense that it carried a lot of overly technical data; at times it seemed to read more like an instruction manual for a fuel injector or a transmission than it did a woodworking article. And if you’ve had an MDF router table top for more than a few years, check the table flatness. I made provision to add an adjustable roller to each trestle to enable them to be used in tailing-off the machines. The other two bevels are arrayed more on the leading edge of the iron and are sharpened to a standard bevel (25° – 30°) since they cut in the typical manner (slicing and levering).
Use a long thin awl to scribe the plane profile onto the iron, and keep the awl as flat as possible on the bed.
Cool the iron every couple of passes across the stone, and dress the stone on occasion to remove glazing, etc and improve the cutting action.
The long edges require more care so they should be done first, while the fillet edge is very short and should be done last.
I may need to tweak the tool-rest angle as the bevel develops in order to optimize the cutting angle. It is very important to distribute the pressure evenly along the bevel or you’ll taper the bevel along its length. With that being said, it is an interesting topic, and certainly somebody who could construct this tool has to be pretty talented.
If the Popular Woodworking Magazine shop band saw did not have a granite top, I would install rare-earth magnets into the bottom to hold the jig still. Anyway, I’m not sure where you got this information, but I checked with the company this morning and the 40-200 Deluxe Router Table Kit has NOT been discontinued. I am thrilled with the functionality of mine (they are not a patch on the beauty of Russ Merz’s), I would to consider even loaning these out *-))).
The iron is already tempered, and if your iron is also tempered, it’s important to retain that temper as the cutting edge is shaped. The bevel ideally should have a rhombohedron shape and extend to below the plane body profile. While I understand what those drawings are trying to convey they don’t seem to correlate to the actual pictures of the profiled iron. That box – and the adjustable vent which is dialed-in to work in conjunction with your dust collector’s size and abilities – also adds to the collection efficiency. It may have been out of stock – we had to wait for a few weeks before ours was delivered – but the router table is available. I am now reading it for the fifth time and it seems very straightforward to me, although the proof will be in actually making my own plane. But even if I would never construct a tool such as this, the article does speak of the ingenuity and talent of the craftsman of the past (and present) who built them. That’s right – there are four corner lift screws instead of the two posts (and single lift screw) found on many other lifts. All in all, if you properly set up this router table for dust collection, little dust is left in the box and even less shows up on the tabletop.

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Author: admin | 12.09.2014 | Category: Shed Garden

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