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I have found that most counties in the vicinity of where I live want you to use a 4x4 treated post (pier) anchored in concrete in a hole that is dug just below the frost line. Headers For Windows and Doors Feb 07, 16 10:01 AMHow to make headers for door and window openings in your shed framing. Pictures of Sheds, Storage Shed Plans, Shed Designs Dec 27, 15 10:46 AMVisit our library of pictures of sheds built from our shed plans. Awesome 10x12 Barn Shed Dec 27, 15 10:41 AMSee how Jason built his very own 10x12 barn shed and had a great time doing it. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community.
I have not found a definitive answer on the best approach with this method - here are my questions.
Many people have said that between piers there should be concrete blocks to support the skids. I'm having a hard time following your method of construction generally when skids are used under the floor framing, piers aren't used. A 2x6 won't support the load over a 12' span but your diagram shows less than a 6' span - correct? At this point, as I have not found a better solution, I am considering doing the approach I just mentioned, and then getting some galvanized straps which I could use a shims if there are settling issues during curing. There is more danger of you inserting the tie downs in the wrong place or you not getting the tops of all the piers level than there is of shrinking or settling of the concrete. Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers.
Personally, I would dig the topsoil out from under the blocks—preferably down to mineral soil so that almost all of the concrete is buried. The kind of concrete block you are using is plenty strong, though I don't see anything to keep your shed from moving, for example from strong wind, heavy rain, or leaning livestock. Not all pressure treated is intended for ground contact so make sure you get the right kind.
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I bought ballast and cement to make concrete and was going to dig out 8 holes, 4 each side, then put the blocks onto the concrete pads. The shed is fairly large at 10' x 8' and the site its going on is turf at the moment, with clay soil under.
I was going to go for paving slabs but with the soil being heavy in clay I was advised I would have had to put a thick layer of hardcore down. My old shed was just sat on red bricks, directly on top of the soil and that lasted a good 15 years . I've built a deck that way and it's fairly easy to do by yourself with a post hole digger and wheel barrow. I always suggest that buyers of my storage shed plans check with their local building inspector to make sure which method of anchoring your shed floor is acceptable in your particalar locality.
Most if not all sheds that I build with wooden floors are anchored with a minimum of 2 to 4 piers set in concrete. These 4"x4" treated posts are usually set in concrete in a hole that is a minimum of 6", usually 8", and dug to a minimum depth equal to your areas frost line.The piers are 'held' on to the skids with either mending plates on each side, or post caps. I live in the upper midwest where we have hot summers and very cold winters so frost heave is an issue.
Is it "reasonably" possible to get level piers, or is it best to put a post on top of the pier to allow for some height adjustment?
The skids will either rest directly on the ground or solid blocks will be used to lift it slightly or level the structure. I think part of the reason they are included in the plans i purchased is because each time a joist passes over one of them, the joist span is reduced. Would you recommend resting them on top of the posts or attaching the joists to the sides of the posts? I'll be parking a garden tractor inside as well as putting a stone fountain in it etc (some heavy items).
The image that I posted with the double rim is the plan that I came up with originally (not purchased plans).
But the added benefit, one might say, is that they allow the shed to rest on top of them, instead of being tied in laterally (aka less sheer pressure for the joist connections). My concern is that it may sink or settle as the concrete cures, which then would mean my floor is not level.


If this is a permanent structure intended to last more than one winter you need to make sure the foundation goes below the frost line. Some old quarry tiles on top or a thin steel plate to provide a bearing and spread the load. So that would mean a lot of digging out, having to get rid of the topsoil, having to buy a lot of hardcore and then having to buy the paving slabs. I do also have some pvc trim that i could nail to the under side to help stop water getting to the timber.
Just make sure you get the forms square and level and that the concrete goes down below the frost line. Yes, I understand that adds support, but doesn't that create issues when there is frost heave? It seems that a simpler skid to pier connection would be better, but then would I run into leveling issues? Your setup is probably OK if you're not planning on parking a riding mower in rhe shed. Would have also had to hire a wacker to compact it and my local tool hire charge ?45 for the day. I dont have any materials for on top to spread the load though, so If I have to go and buy something I may as well just buy bricks or something and use them instead. If the worse comes to the worst it wont be too hard or costly to replace the treated timber frame if it did rot. I was wondering if you could use that over the top to add more protection, so its good to know you can.
Then make up some 1' square by 4" timber frames and sit them on top of the holes, then fill in the concrete up to the top of the timber.
Then I will use the blocking described above spaced evenly between the anchors about every 4' or so.If your shed has 3 runners, the middle runner can just be supported with the blocking at equal intervals, usually about every 4'. I assume that if there is frost heave, the blocks will rise, and the piers will not - therefore creating tension. So it would be just like using the concrete blocks but it would be solid concrete instead of the blocks. I always suggest that buyers of my storage shed plans check with their local building inspector to make sure which method of anchoring your shed floor is acceptable in your particular locality.



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Author: admin | 12.04.2016 | Category: Aluminum Sheds


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