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Shed truss installation tools,outdoor storage cabinet with drawers queen,storage shed 6 x 10 xp - Videos Download

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. Hello Ladies and Gentleman, I just thought it would be nice to share this project I had to do while on my deployment to Afghanistan. More demo As you can see on the bottom pictures I cut the three post in the back I will be studing this wall as well as the one on the left. I would have used the existing roof framing and added purlins to support the roofing material. Hello Again, So today I finally finished drilling the holes for the mounting hardware and plates that go on the 6x6's, made me wish i had a long enough drill bit to go through the beam in one shot. Been very busy but back on the Project, Got all the walls plumbed and level and secure today. Whatever skill you've got, you'll be able to build a professional shed by using this strategy. The shed is an octagon measuring 16¾ feet in "diameter" (apex-to-apex) that resembles our 18-sided (round) house. The landscape rake's tines and the rear blade must be rotated 45°, as shown by the green lines, so they will fit through the bay opening, and clear other implements. The drawing and this photo dramatically illustrate a major benefit of the self-supporting roof – the 10' tractor can be parked in the center of the 16' shed, impossible if there were a center post.
The octagonal roof will have 16 trusses that bear against a center cylinder, and will be clamped in place with a heavy steel split ring at the bottom. Several days ago we planed and ripped 30" lengths of 2x4 lumber into 16 pieces for the center cylinder.
As with our house roof, the hole in the center of the shed roof will be covered by shingles to keep out rain.
We will need a post to support the center cylinder and trusses as the trusses are placed in position. When all 16 trusses are in place, they will be permanently clamped with the metal split ring shown above. We received approval from the subdivision archetectural control committee to build the tractor shed. Mike spent a lot of time working in Adobe Illustrator to finalize the roof truss design, and calculate accurate measurements. We will align the jig's adjustable fence to a template line, then screw it to the plywood base. The fence and the clamp bolts just be repositioned for each angle, but there are only seven angles, so this won't be difficult. We are compiling a materials list, and need to know how many sheets of plywood will be needed to sheathe the roof. Next we will measure the roof area, and also work out how 4x8 plywood can be cut most efficiently to cover it. Mike designed the roof sheathing components to fit the trusses, then glued outlines of them to stiff cardboard, and cut them out. The self-supporting truss roof makes it imperative that the eight corner posts are set in precise positions, and that they are plumb and equally spaced.
We'll start with a "benchmark" consisting of a ¾" threaded steel rod set in a concrete footer at the center of the shed. We will measure the appropriate distance along each line, and bore a 12" hole 24" deep into the earth for each post, using a power auger, then we'll pour a concrete footer in each hole.
Mike spent a couple of days devising a plan to help us set the posts accurately – see the two drawings below. A 3' steel bar will be temporarily screwed to a post, and pre-measured steel cables run from the benchmark cap to eye bolts on the ends of the bar. Another cable will run from the benchmark cap to an eye bolt screwed into the post near the top.
We'll set each successive post just like the second one, moving the cables and connecting them to the previous post. By the way, the "pre-measured" steel cables will have turnbuckles so we can fine-tune the length when setting the first and second posts. Mike finished machining the aluminum benchmark cap that will anchor one end of the cables we'll use to set the posts. The intermediate truss and two jack trusses will rest in slots cut into a 2x4 top plate nailed to the 2x6 perimeter beam.
The jig consists of two end pieces that straddle the 2x4, and a top piece with a cutout for a template guide fitted to the router.
The two carriage bolts on the front are finger-tightened against the 2x4 to hold the jig securely in place.
Today we turned our attention to a 275-gallon tank we bought two years ago to hold diesel fuel for the tractor and generator. Mike used the boom pole on the tractor to reposition the tank upside-down so the wand rolled and slid close to an opening, and he managed to snag and retrieve it. We turned the tank right-side-up and tipped it with the tractor so the debris slid to one end. The tank will be installed on 29½" 6x6 legs, high enough for the diesel fuel to gravity-feed into the tractor.
The drawing below shows the relative heights of the tank, tractor, generator, and access steps but, except for the tank, not their actual locations.
As part of his creating drawings and performing calculations, Mike drew two templates for cutting the post tops to accept 2x6 beams, and a third template to mark holes for attaching the 36" angle iron we'll use with two cables to ensure the post squarely faces the center of the shed. We plumbed the ¾" threaded rod with an electronic level, then nailed the wood strip to the ground to hold it until the concrete cured. After setting the benchmark, we made the final two of six measuring cables that will help us place posts accurately. Mike cut 10" off a 6x6, and we used that piece to test making the cuts needed at the top of each corner post.
We will use this 6x6 cutoff with the theodolite and measuring cable A, above, to mark the locations of holes for the corner posts.
Yesterday and today Mike marked the tops of the eight corner posts for the cuts needed for the perimeter beams. We marked the final locations for the eight corner posts, in preparation for digging the holes tomorrow.
We discovered we had made three measuring cables too long, so we have to re-make those cables – a minor snag that will cost us only an hour or so. We spent four hours enlarging the eight post holes to at least 14" in diameter by 18" deep. Today we spent 2½ hours mixing concrete and pouring footers for fhe eight corner posts.
We spent 2½ hours measuring and marking the eight corner posts, in preparation for cutting and setting them in their holes. Another important point shows where to cut the bottom of the post to make it the correct length. In addition to the theodolite reference and the cutting line, we marked points to attach screw eyes for the measuring cables.
We spent five hours today cutting all eight posts to length and drilling holes for the screw eyes that will hook the measuring cables. We used an electronic level to plumb this first post side-to-side, but we'll plumb subsequent posts using crossed diagonal cables back to the previous post.
Mike discovered the error in his measurement calculations, which he corrected, and we adjusted the measuring cables to the proper lengths.
Using the corrected measuring cables, we adjusted the two posts and checked the spacing with a 1x2 cut to stand-in for a 2x6 beam. For some reason, the third post was about ½" too long, so the theodolite reference line was too high with the post resting on its footer.
Mike nailed the caps to the beams, giving us eight beams ready to install as soon as we set the posts. We installed two beams on the three posts already set, then set one more post and installed one more beam.
Working alone today, Mike set the fifth post and installed a beam between it and its neighbor.
Again working alone, Mike set the sixth post and installed a beam between it and yesterday's post.
Mike lifted each beam on the tractor bucket, then climbed ladders to set each end onto its post recess.
This drawing shows where the gussets will be attached to the trusses, four on each main and intermediate truss. Mike cut 2x4s for the first hip truss, and then spent four days figuring out why the pieces didn't fit together. Three other pieces depend on accurate chord spacing, so Mike spent a couple of days "solving" triangles using the rule of sines to accurately calculate their lengths. The steel nailing plates on the vertical chord in the foreground are needed to allow the 16 hip and intermediate trusses to fit side-by-side against the central cylinder. Pictured here are the three self-supporting trusses, and a closeup of the clamp at the bottom of the vertical chords. Nevertheless, the hip trusses are built, so tomorrow Mike can start on the intermediate trusses. Mike has been making two jack trusses per day for a week, and today finished the 15th of the 16 needed. We need to build a stand from 6x6s for a 275-gallon tank to hold diesel fuel for the emergency generator and tractor. We laid out the post locations for the fuel tank, but a shaft sleeve on the power auger broke while we were boring the first hole.
We installed the new earth auger on the power head and bored four holes for the fuel tank stand. These photos show how we used the boom pole on the tractor to lift the tank 30" above the ground, and maneuver it into the post-top cutouts.
The plastic dog house sheltering the generator will be discarded, and we'll build a smaller stand to support the generator.
Mike finished fabricating the steps to allow the fuel delivery person to reach the filler pipe. We installed the tank outlet plumbing, and poured several gallons of diesel fuel into the tank to check for leaks. Mike installed a fuel-level gauge on the diesel tank, then attached the hose and nozzle to fuel the tractor. Ten inches of snow prevented us from doing outdoor work, so Mike began work on the jig needed to install the roof trusses. The ¾" plywood disk is screwed to four "ears" that hold it above the top of a 4x4 post. The cylinder must be exactly centered over the 4x4 post, which itself will be centered over the shed's center benchmark. When the glue was dry, we accurately measured from each post top corner to the end of the wire, and bent it slightly in one direction or another until all four measurements were the same. Mike hooked the utility trailer to the tractor, loaded the 16 hip and intermediate trusses, then drove to the observatory area entrance. While the bottom chords were drying, Mike set up two scrap 6x6s to support trusses, and three lengths of rebar to keep the trusses upright. Louise arrived home shortly after Mike began spraying the trusses, so she moved the trusses to and from the 6x6s. The center cylinder standing upright on the ground is drying after being sprayed inside and out. After yesterday's success with the 16 long hip and intermediate trusses, today we sprayed the 16 short jack trusses, and stacked them near the house to dry. We've had four 80-pound bags of concrete mix sitting on the family room patio for months, so today, being dry, we cleaned out the footer holes around four corner posts, and poured the concrete and water into them.
We bought five more 80-pound bags of concrete mix, and used them around the final four corner posts. Finally, after all the prep work, we placed the truss erection jig onto the center benchmark ¾" threaded rod (Mike had drilled a 5"-deep hole in the bottom of the post). This high-angle view shows the post with the truss center cylinder sitting atop the plywood base attached to the post top. The tall end of eight hip trusses will butt against the center cylinder, with their bases resting on the plywood ring. This closeup shows the center cylinder on top of the plywood ring, which is attached to the four arms bolted to the top of the 4x4 post. As each hip or intermediate truss is set in place, Mike will reach up inside the cylinder with a palm nailer, and drive two short nails through pre-drilled holes into the truss vertical chord.
When all 16 trusses are in place, the split clamp will be bolted around their vertical chords to hold them firmly against the cylinder. For peace of mind, the erection jig will remain in place while workers are sheathing and shingling the roof. Mike set each truss on the erection jig's plywood ring, and Louise secured her end with a bungee cord. This interior view shows the 16 hip and intermediate trusses resting on the plywood ring, and butting against the central cylinder.
Mike placed the clamp halves around the cylinder and, after much jiggling and jostling, managed to align the holes, and inserted two bolts and nuts with enough threads showing to hold the clamps together. Then it was off to the other side, where the clamps were widely separated, and didn't want to come together. Mike tightened the nut to hold the clamp halves together, removed the C-clamp, then inserted and tightened the second bolt and nut. After clamping the trusses yesterday, today we discovered three that needed shimming – the clamp had lifted their ends free of the perimeter beam. It turns out that clampling the trusses drew them closer to the center cylinder at the bottom, which raised the cylinder and the erection jig attached to it.
Mike removed the three screws attaching the plywood ring to the bottom of the center cylinder, then lowered the erection jig. Later we drove our pickup truck and utility trailer to buy a ton of sheathing and shingles, plus a few additional supplies to build a shelter for the generator.
After wasting most of the day expecting rain that never came, this evening we installed steel strapping over the 32 roof trusses.
As shown on the floor plan, we will extend the shed roof 6' beyond the closed bay, to shelter the diesel generator, which will be mounted on 6x6 posts about 18" high.


Today we removed the plastic dog house, and shifted the generator several feet to make room for two 4x4 posts to support the roof extension. Last night Mike drew the generator stand plan shown above, then cut the pieces and clamped them together to check the fit. The four 6x6 posts are 39½" long, half of which will be buried in a hole with concrete, so the stand will be about 20" high.
We slightly tapered the top 1" of the beam sides, and rounded the edges to match the steel U-channels on the bottom of the generator.
The slot in the lefthand beam provides clearance for two mounting bolts under the diesel engine. The work required a lot of trial-and-error, but we finally got the posts and beams very close to their final orientation.
Mike rigged a sling for the generator, and lifted it with the boom pole on the tractor, then carefuly positioned it over the stand, while Louise made final adjustments by hand. Later we bolted one post to a 6x6 on the fuel tank stand, and bored a hole in the earth for the other post. This photo shows the two 4x4 posts and the truss extensions with temporary supports clamped above them.
A few more whacks, and the concrete broke apart, leaving only a small length still surrounding the post. This photo shows the two posts, plus an original post (with the red X) still in the wrong location. Blessed with another sunny day, instead of the predicted rain, Mike attached the beam betwen the two posts, and set three of the five truss-extension rafters for the generator shelter. Even though we had carefully measured the post height yesterday, the planned beam height proved to be too low when the first rafter was clamped in place. We need to nail band boards onto the ends of all shed trusses and generator shelter rafters. The ground was dry after only moderate rain, so this evening we put up five treated 1x4 band boards.
Once the band boards are up and dry weather is forecast, we will call the contractor to install the roof. We installed only one band board today, over the bay adjacent to the fuel tank and generator shelter. We installed the final two band boards on the shed, then the single band board on the generator shelter. After half an inch of rain, it will be several days before the ground is dry enough for our contractor to install the roof. The edging, shown by the pink outline in the floor plan, will have a 2 ½" vertical back to retain the gravel, and a sloping front to provide a ramp for the tractor. Our contractor arrived with two helpers at 8:30, and they promptly began cutting and nailing plywood sheathing on the roof trusses.
Mike lowered the center post an inch or two, and the trusses didn't even whimper as they supported themselves plus 2,000 pounds of plywood and shingles.
Mike removed the post and erection jig, pulled the concrete center benchmark from the ground, and filled the hole with gravel.
Each length of edging must mate fairly well with its neighbors, so we have to level the ground under it with a shovel. Mike took advantage of some free time before Mother's Day dinner with family, and hung the first pull-down shade on the northeast bay.
We took advantage of pleasant 76° sunny weather to finish the gravel edging around the generator and fuel tank.
Last year Mike machined 18 "buttons" from Delrin to restrain the pull-down shades in windy weather. Mike sprayed white lines with marking paint to help guide the tractor when backing into the shed.
Mike mounted a length of 1" PVC pipe between the diesel fuel tank and the generator to protect the flexible fuel line. We finally cut and installed two triangular panels of HardiePlank on the gable ends of the generator shelter.
Mike became concerned that the PVC plumbing fittings in the main line from the diesel fuel tank might break from the force of the metal threaded pipe connections, so he rebuilt everything with solid brass pipe and fittings.
Instead, we decided to run the line directly to the same connector the tank was plumbed to. Everything worked out well, and the fuel line fits as if the generator were designed for it. This is the Current picture of this deck with some framing members louvered to provide some shade against this blazing sun. Also needed the extra 6x6 that were cut to be used as my header between the main openings of the deck.
So I really thought about what you said before I started the project, but the only problem was that the existing Framing was very weak and unstable. Two of the 6x6 post were warped in opposite directions but I think I will notch one of them so the beams sitting on top are at a 90* angle and not curving.
Instead of having to drill two times top and bottom and making sure the measurement traveled perfectly so the holes can line up. I also used square tabs of metal with hardware to brace the 6x6 with the studed walls.That should be strong enough to keep the winds from the helicopters at bay. Once i was done with it , I took out one piece and made my cuts based of those measurements.
Scroll down to see day-by-day progress, or click the finished shed button above to see photos of the finished shed. Seven sides will be open, with pull-down exterior shades to shelter the implements from the elements.
Implements in the six open bays will be stored with the three-point hitch facing outward, so the tractor can pick up and drop them from outside the shed.
A rectangular shed to store the same equipment would have four 6' bays on each side, making it 25' long. This clamp will be held together with ½" bolts, and it is this clamping force that holds up the roof.
The installation jig will be removed after the roof is sheathed by screwing-down the nut on the center benchmark rod. Ideally we will be able to cut the truss components from the plan dimensions, and everything will fit perfectly. Once positioned, we'll be able to make all the cuts for one truss chord, then set up for the next piece. It is difficult to calculate the area of the sloping triangles, so Mike made a model that we can measure. After additional theodolite measurements plus some calculations, we'll mark and cut each post to the correct length.
The cables serve two functions: They place the post the correct distance from the center, and they ensure it directly faces the center of the shed. Two cables will be run from the top eye bolt low on the first post to an eye bolt high on the second post. A ½" straight bit protrudes through the guide, and the depth is carefully adjusted so the bit begins cutting right on the 2x4's top-rear edge, and cuts deeper as the router moves down the jig.
We pressure-washed the tank interior at the time, and left it to dry for those two years with the open filler holes pointing down. The generator will be relocated from its plastic dog house to 20" 6x6 legs inside a shed-roof enclosure behind the tractor shed. First we staked out a rough circle, shifting and re-staking until we were satisfied with the shed location. This will hold the aluminum cap with eight eye bolts, and will be the reference point for positioning the eight corner posts. First we installed the center benchmark cap with the eight eyebolts, then set up the thedolite with a plumb bob directly over the benchmark.
Instead, Mike took the tractor to the eight 6x6 posts and used the bucket as a workbench to make three initial cuts on each post top. Alas, the batteries didn't last long enough to cut all eight posts, so the rest will be cut next time, after two days of rain. Tomorrow we'll enlarge these with a posthole digger, root chopper, and ahovel to about 14" diameter, then pour concrete footers. We ran out of time and energy by late afternoon, so we'll mix concrete and pour footers tomorrow. Each post's markings are based on the point, THEOref, where a level theodolite intersects a survey stick resting on the footer.
Since the bottom, not the top, of the post is cut, all our footer-referenced measurements and calculations must be converted to a top-down reference. A 2x4 will be nailed to the top of the beam, and will have angled slots for three trusses to rest in.
This benchmark must remain centered beneath the theodolite to ensure accurate post placement. We'll look into this, and devise a way to ensure each post is placed correctly relative to its neighbor. We made some minor tweaks to bring the posts to the correct positions and angles, then moved on to the third post. Then he used the router and jig to cut three 1½" sloping slots in each cap to hold roof trusses in place. He clamped the beam in place while making final adjustments, then drilled holes and installed two lag bolts in each end. He stuck a pre-printed identification label to each gusset, so we aren't confused when we need them. It turns out the long shallow cut on the top chord (top-right in this photo) must be made extremely accurately. Mike cut the final two pieces for the first hip truss, and eventually got everything to fit reasonably well, but it definitely wasn't a cakewalk.
Ultimately these will be duplicated on the second side, but this truss will serve as a pattern and measuring platform for the remaining seven hip trusses. The original plan was to glue and nail the wood gussets on both sides of the truss, but now we're thinking that's overkill. So we raised the center column to the correct height, and clamped three trusses to it (with a short 2x4 standing in for the fourth truss). The trusses showed no sign of weakening when we applied several hundred pounds of weight to two of them. With all the 2x4s in-hand, Mike cut all the parts needed to make the intermediate and jack trusses. One piece on the final jack truss requires one more cut, but that will have to wait until the remaining seven intermediate trusses are made, and the cutting jig can be changed. The correct part apparently would require welding, which we can't do, so we sent back the part and bought a new auger on eBay, which arrived today. The roof of the adjacent shed bay will be extended over the generator, but not the fuel tank, as shown here.
Fuel flows through a ball valve, through the primary filter, then through a secondary filter to a tee.
The question is, how do we center the disk which is supported 10" above the top of the post? Louise pressed the plywood disk against the supports, and centered it on the steel wire, and Mike fastened the disk to the supports with screws. Ultimately, the trusses will be covered by the roof, and not exposed to water, but they will be exposed after being installed, until our contractor arrives to sheathe the roof. He worked on two trusses at once, alternately tipping one, then the other, first against an outside rebar, then against the center rebar. The cylinder is screwed to the plywood ring to keep it from toppling over as trusses are installed. This prevents the truss from falling over or otherwise moving during the installation process – the nails are not structural. Then the three screws holding cylinder to the plywood ring will be removed, and the erection jig lowered by turning a nut on the center benchmark ¾" threaded rod.
The empty slots on the 2x4 perimeter beam cap between the intermediate trusses and the adjacent hip trusses are for 16 jack trusses.
The next step is to install the split clamp around the 16 vertical chords, just above the bottom chords. At Louise's suggestion, Mike used two C-clamps, alternately tightening each to gradually close the gap.
We added the shims, then decided to see if the trusses would remain in place after lowering the erection jig. When Mike put the wrench on the nut that supports the 4x4 post on the center benchmark threaded rod, he found it was already finger-loose. Here's the proof we wanted to see – open air between the cylinder and the plywood ring. These half-length trusses run parallel to intermediate trusses, and attach to hip trusses, one on each side. These "hurricane straps" tie the roof to the shed structure so high winds can't lift it off.
This involved boring four holes with the earth auger, clearing the holes, placing the 6x6 posts in the holes, and leveling and spacing them all correctly. Tomorrow we plan to make final adjustments, then use the tractor to lift the generator onto the stand, add cross-braces, and pour concrete into the holes. We double-checked the post and beam alignment, and tweaked them slightly to make everything plumb and level. This poor-quality photo shows the generator in the sling, just after it was lowered into place.
Louise drilled a ½" hole into the beam and post at each end of the U-channel under the engine, then drove two short lengths of rebar to prevent shifting due to engine vibration.
Mike clamped 2x4s to two roof trusses to get an idea where the 4x4 posts should be placed to support the beam the truss extensions rest on.
Looking over the 4x4 posts we set three days ago, we concluded they were in the wrong locations – they should be closer together and nearer the shed. This proved to be more difficult than he anticipated, but eventually he got it out, and broke off the concrete.
A couple of blows with an 8-pound sledge hammer directly to the concrete caused it to fall away from the post.


After careful measurements, we bored new holes for the two posts to support the shed roof extension over the generator. So Mike raised the beam one inch to ensure the rafters match the truss lower chords' 3:12 pitch. The 2½ remaining rafters all require special cutting, due to the odd angles involved.
Sadly, heavy rain is forecast for the next two days, so we'll have to wait until the ground dries out before we can do that.
The shelter roof on that side requires a short band board to reach the first rafter, so we spent considerable time getting both to fit.
The table saw blade didn't cut all the way through the 4x4 when tilted the required 25°, which meant we had to flip the 4x4 over and make a second pass. These shingles are laid up each hip truss, over the ends of the regular shingles covering the flat area between two hip trusses.
Mike used the table saw for accuracy and speed, but the spinning blade threw granules all over the place.
They worked all morning and by 1:15, back from lunch, they were stapling tar paper onto the sheathing.
Tomorrow we'll remove the post and erection jig, which now is loose but trapped on the benchmark threaded rod.
Mike ran a string around the shed corner posts, measured out 28", and planted marking flags. Once everything lines up, we "nail" the edging in place with two 24" lengths of ½" rebar through holes drilled in the board.
Only about 21 feet remain, but we need to buy one more 4x4 and rip it in half to finish the edging.
It was an easy task, but required careful measuring to center the shade between two corner posts. The bottom gap will be even larger on the south-facing bays (left, in the photo), because the ground falls away in that direction.
He dumped it inside the shed, and Louise spread it with a rake while he went back for another load.
Over the next few dry days, Mike will make "landing pads" for each implement from pressure-treated lumber, and move the implements to the shed. We began to build "landing pads" for the implements, and to install pull-down shades over the bay openings.
We were planning to attach HardiePlank siding to close the bay, but decided this has no benefit. A button is mounted to a shed corner post at each end of the aluminum tube at the bottom of the shade. Wind would blow the shade enough for the ring to slip off the button, and then the shade would whip wildly, causing the plastic end caps on the bottom tube to pop off, and the rings to drop out of the tube slot. These panels not only dress up the shelter, they provide additional shelter from blowing rain. The original plan to connect the rubber fuel line to a port on the generator's fuel tank balve did work out because the so-called "port" had no clearance on one side. We were concerned that the original tube, the reducer, and our line might not fit in the tight space, but it did. We originally planned to drill a hole in the round fitting with the tapered end, but there is no clearance for the hose to slip over it. I cut the 6x6 with a circular saw cutting on each side then using a handsaw to cut the final notch that the circular saw didn't catch. The guy who built it a year ago didn't do to good of a job in some areas, also most of the 2x6 were cracked down the center. The truss template was nailed down to the plywood on the deck as well as all the 2x6s locations were marked.
The eighth side will have solid siding because access is blocked by a generator for backup household power, and a 275-gallon tank holding diesel fuel for the generator and the tractor. It would need to be 11' deep to accommodate the tractor, so the enclosed area would be 275 square feet – 40% larger.
The fuel tank will be raised on 6x6 posts high enough to gravity-feed both the generator and the tractor fuel filler. Taped at the top is a 1:12 scale model of a truss, illustrating how these will butt against the cylinder. The cylinder will rest on top of this ring, and trusses will be placed around it, supported by the ring extending around the cylinder. This latter is vital so the perimeter beam fits the top of the posts correctly, allowing the roof hip trusses to fit properly. We probably overloaded our half-ton pickup truck, but thankfully it was a short trip from a local lumber yard. He assembled five shop vac wands to reach the tank bottom, and vacuumed some of the debris. This drawing shows the locations of these items and the steps needed to reach the filler pipe on top of the tank. Then we set up the theodolite in the center and accurately marked the locations of the eight corner posts. The challange will be to ensure the theodolite doesn't shift over the next several days, while we set the posts – don't bump it, and hope rain doesn't turn the ground to mud. He used a circular saw for speed, but this does not cut the required 5" into the end grain. This photo illustrates how center cable A sets the post's distance from the center benchmark, and cables B1 and B2 ensure the post directly faces the center.
Once we install the 2x6 beams on top, we'll remove the blocking and backfill the holes with fine gravel. We want to cut these slots and nail the cap boards to the beams before bolting the beams to the posts. We want to start with just four hip trusses to verify the dimensions, and to test the strength of our design. The 16 hip and intermediate trusses get four gussets apiece, all on one side, and each of the 16 jack trusses gets one. Leaving the gussets off the second side gives us unimpleded access to all points on the components. We put guessets on one side only, but steel nailing plates on both sides for extra strength at these important joints.
Mike had to clamp everything in place while nailing the gussets, then leave the clamps in place overnight until the construction adhesive cured.
Soon we will take them outside, spray them with a wood preservative, then install them on the shed frame. A ½" inside-diameter fuel line to the generator will be attached to the right-hand tee outlet, and a similar line with a valve and nozzle to fuel the tractor will be attached to the left-hand outlet. Mike sprayed Thompson's WaterSeal on the exposed bottom chords, so they would be mostly dry when ready to unload and flip the trusses right-side-up for the main spraying.
We don't want the trusses to absorb water, which could promote rot if trapped under the sheathing. Those to the right will be removed in pairs, turned right-side-up, and set on the 6x6s for spraying. Each of the eight intermediate trusses will rest in the center notch in each segment of the perimeter beam, and their wide ends also will butt against the center cylinder, and rest on the plywood ring.
As the jig is lowered, the roof becomes self-supporting – the split clamp holds everything in place. We need scaffolding so one person can stand 5' above the ground and position the trusses into place.
Finally, Mike used a palm nailer to drive nails through two pre-drilled holes in the cylinder wall and into the vertical chord, to prevent the truss from tipping while more are installed. Two jack trusses run parallel to each intermediate truss, and attach about midway to their adjacent hip trusses.
He removed one bolt and used a C-clamp to draw the split clamp together, tightening the remaining bolt as progress was made. The trusses are not nailed to the beam so they can move slightly if temperature swings cause them to expand or contract.
We need to fabricate the stand components, then bore four holes in the ground and build the stand.
We will fabricate the beam and cap between the posts, and add the remaining truss extensions when the rain stops.
We decided to space them 6' apart, and 6' from the shed, to accommodate two more of the 6' pull-down shades we're using on the seven shed bays.
Mike pounded a root chopper into the earth around the concrete, then poured in half a bucket of water for lubrication. It is too short to be reused in one of the two holes, so we'll save it for a future project.
We used this temporary clamp-up to measure and ensure the posts were set at the correct height. Mike taped a piece of cardboard to the saw sled to protect his face from the flying granules, but they still ended up over a broad area of the shop floor.
We laid only two pieces today because we spent a lot of time setting up and figuring out how to do things. Mike machined a reducer from Delrin so we could mate the original small tube with our larger line.
Originally the short hose with the two spring clamps connected to the brass fitting on the rear of the fuel valve assembly. I could have just sister joist them but the roofing material I got for this project comes in 2ft by 10ft sheet metal that's corrugated and each sheet is has a decent weight to it.
Do I have The Right Idea Below is A design not exact measurements of how im going to be designing them.
The 16 vertical truss chords, simulated by the two 2x4s, will be clamped to the cylinder by the black split ring that a blacksmith friend made for us.
Each truss will be "tacked" to the cylinder with nails through pre-drilled holes, to prevent it from tipping or sliding. All the screw holes for the fence, and bolt holes for the clamps are pre-drilled and labeled, so there is no question about what goes where for each angle. He used the band saw to cut around the truss outlines, then glued the trusses to a center column and scale 2x6 on a plywood base. The tiny open triangles at the peak will be covered with small pieces of plywood measuring approximately 2"x4".
We will set up a theodolite directly over the rod, and string lines every 45° from the eight eye bolts toward the shed perimeter, staking them exactly in line with the theodolite's crosshairs. This will not only plumb the second post, it will also position it the correct distance from the first post. But when he pulled out the wand, one joint snagged on the tank opening, and three sections dropped inside the tank! This photo shows the center stake and eight white flags (Lowe's was out of orange flags), with the shed outline added in Photoshop. When done, he sprayed a dot of orange marking paint to show the side that faces outward (the orange wood will be removed during the cutting operation). This is important because each post top is cut, as seen above, to accept two 2x6 beams at a 45° angle. They determine the correct distance from the center benchmark, ensure the post directly faces the center, and make the post plumb in one direction. For each post, we'll drive rebar behind the benchmark, and connect the backstay between it and the eye bolt opposite the post being set.
This is much easier than wrestling the post into the hole by hand, as we did with the first one.
If successful, we'll buy 2x4s for the remaining four hip trusses, eight intermediate trusses, and 16 jack trusses. Mike tweaked the truss cutting jig to make it more accurate, and we concluded that each cut must be measured with a digital angle finder, and re-cut until it is accurate.
Before doing that, we plan to build 6x6 supports for the generator and a 275-gallon fuel tank. He also attached the fuel line for the generator, but plugged the end, since the generator is not yet in its final position.
This assembly-line setup worked well, and we finished spraying all 16 trusses in about two hours. Once the ends were close enough, he removed the C-clamp, inserted the second bolt, and tightened both to their final torque.
When that project is finished, we plan to build a parking pad for our pickup truck, which will take most of the remaining stone.
A channel for the tab holding the ring to the shade allows the ring to slip onto the button (left photo).
So I figured with a snow load and that metal roofing on it, it could possibly collapse under load. Just about the end of the day I started Marking out the bottom and top plate for one of the walls. I have to make a total of 23 and will be using plywood as gussets to connect the 2x6 to each other. I found that taking one piece out and cutting the lumber to that dimensions 23 times is much faster than making individual trusses. The threaded benchmark rod will be used later to support, position, and adjust the jig we will use to erect the roof trusses. Originally we planned to apply gussets to both sides of a truss, but later decided this was overkill, and the extra nails on the opposite side increased the risk of the 2x4 splitting. The flats were milled and the holes drilled on our milling machine, with the piece held in this same lathe chuck mounted on a rotary table. After Cutting the pieces, I made sure each piece fit by sliding it into the spot were it belonged.



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Author: admin | 17.03.2016 | Category: Aluminum Sheds


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