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Genevieve Dorcen writes: Thank you for teaching people on how to take up small projects around the house and how to build thing that are useful for their families and which will help then live in an eco friendly manner caring for the environment and the future.
Venice Morgan writes: An unused, old and nearly broken or simply irreparable cabinet can be use for a garbage bin cabinet. If building a simple shed like this one requires so much effort, imagine how difficult building a wooden home can be! This will likely almost certainly be rather beneficial for many of your job opportunities I want to you should not only with my blog site. While this solves the depositing issue for trash from inside the home to outside, you need to also look out for what happens to it from outdoor to the recycling centers.
I actually did the same thing, I also got the idea from here and the old one turns to this bin closet. What to BuyA cool tool for precise cutsTable saw: A lightweight cordless version with a plywood-cutting blade is easier and safer to handle in tight spaces than a corded version. Now you can conceal them in an attractive, inexpensive, and easy-to-build shed that requires basic skills, tools, and materials.
Build the frameA diagram of the trash barrel shedCompound miter saw: Rent or borrow one to make straight and beveled cuts on the siding and roof panels (see Lumber List in PDF). In a weekend, your trash cans will have a home of their own that keeps them within easy reach for their weekly trip to the curb. Attach the sides and doorsUse a sturdy work tableT-bevel or protractor: Rent a compound miter saw to make precise angled cuts on your lumber. This is a circular saw mounted on a steel base for cutting lumber that is less than 5 in.wide.
Drill holes at the marks and secure the hinges to the door using flat-head bolts fastened with washers and nuts on the backsides of the doors.


With a helper holding a door in place on the shed, align the door flush to the top of the side frame, then check that it is level, with a 1?8-in. Fit the hinged roofCut the angles with a miter sawCombination square: Use one or the other for measuring and transferring angles to your cut stock.
Use your pencil to mark the screw-hole locations for the other hinge flanges on the side frames, then drill pilot holes and attach the hinges with flat-head galvanized machine screws. Drill pilot holes and fasten membersCaulking gun: This adjustable tool allows you to draw straight lines on 2x4s to help guide your cuts. Attach the side frames to the crossmembers2x4 Pressure-treated lumber: You’ll need one to apply tubes of adhesive to the siding panels.
Cut the panels with a table or circular sawT-111 Siding: When building outdoor projects, use pressure-treated (PT) lumber instead of standard,untreated lumber. This type of latch keeps the front doors closed and secure, but easily accessible—you’ll need to operate the hasp when you open the shed doors to remove the cans on pickup day. PT lumber contains low-toxicity chemicals that protect the wood from rot and insects, especially where it contacts the ground or damp concrete. Attach the hinges: Cut and fasten the fixed roof panel to the top of the frame and rafters using wood screws every 8 in. It’s a little heavier and denser than standard lumber,but lasts longer than untreated wood. Roof and paint: Measure and cut the roof lid so it fits flush to the finished sides of the shed frame, tight against the fixed panel, with a 1-in. If you use asphalt shingles, lap the courses to hide most nail heads; cover any exposed nail heads with plastic asphalt cement. Prime and paint the doors and siding of the shed to match or complement your home; apply two to three coats to each to achieve the proper coverage and color.
As an option, you can prime and paint the shed’s wooden roof instead of applying shingles or another roofing finish.


Drill pilot holes and fasten the hingesBuild the side assemblies: This project will be easier to build if you use a flat and stable elevated work table made from a 4-ft. Not only will getting materials off the ground save your knees and back,but it will also provide some clearance as you cut and fasten the framing members.Disassemble and store the work table when the project is complete. Add finishing touchesJoin the assemblies: On a flat surface, cut all of the framing members with a circular or compound miter saw.
To determine angle cuts on the vertical members and rafters, layout one side assembly, lay a rafter under it, and mark the vertical members and the rafter for the angle cuts. Use the miter saw to cut the angles, then use the cut rafter as a template to mark and cut the second rafter and the other tall vertical member of the other ide assembly to the same angles. Cut the siding panels: Drill pilot holes and use wood screws to fasten the horizontal and vertical members for both sides together.
Apply the siding: If you rented a power nailer, it can be used to fasten the assemblies, or you can drill pilot holes and use wood screws. Stand these cut panels against the side frames and mark the rafter angle along the top (narrow) edge on the panels’ back faces. Measure and cut the shed’s back panel from the other sheet of T-111 siding with a table or circular saw. Apply adhesive to the outside back crossmembers, then position and screw the back panel to the frame. Add the hardware: You’ll want to be precise when you cut the doors, so use a straightedge held to the table with clamps to guide the saw as you make the cut on your pencil mark.



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Author: admin | 16.08.2013 | Category: Small Storage Buildings


Comments »

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