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Before any cutting-edge shaping begins, the iron is ground along the long edges to an angle matching the cheek angles of the plane, which are about 23°. I don’t actually measure the bevel angles of the iron as I hone them, but judge them by eye. The first step in shaping the iron is to paint the face (the tool steel surface) with layout fluid. When grinding the  final cutting bevel angle, I set the tool rest at a low angle relative to the grinding stone (about as low as I can get) .
The iron is resting flat on the tool rest, my forefinger acts as a fence against the proximal edge of the rest and my thumb is pressing on the iron face to advance or retreat the iron as I grind. I typically grind the middle bevel first, then the left bevel and save the fillet bevel for last. I also use a WorkSharp where I put the same grit on both faces of the glass plate and work my way through a number of grits (in stages from #36 to #2,000 grit, depending on the amount of work to be done). Throughout this honing process, I focus on the two long bevels, testing the progress by reinserting the iron in the plane body. Once I am completely happy with the two long bevels, I turn my attention to tweaking the fillet bevel. More pictures may help but I would like to suggest that annotations added to the existing pictures might be more helpful as well. Given all that, is there any possibility that a Make A Panel Raising Plane DVD will become available in the future?
It just dawned on me that those first four drawings above represent the sole profile of the plane body as seen from the toe of the plane and don’t represent the plane iron.
I have to admit that I’ve read the article several times and I would love to consider making an attempt at it. Does anyone have any leads on where to find a nice chunk of quartersawn beech to make this plane or others?
If these guy had taken a class with you, or worked with you in Roy’s shop they would understand and be a little kinder about your contributions. I haven’t taken the class, but I agree that the article and this post stretches the bounds of my woodworking, which is a good thing!
I understand why the bevel raised panel was chosen for the article, but it would be interesting to see how more complex shapes were made. If Megan is reading this, would you please convert this post (pictures and all) to a pdf we can download and print. Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years.
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A short bevel on the right edge defines the fillet, the long bevel in the middle defines the angled face of the panel and the somewhat shorter bevel on the left defines the tongue that fits into the door or lid frame.
The width of a bevel for cutting and slicing should be a bit more than twice (but less than three times) the thickness of the iron at the cutting edge.
As I get close to the lines, I begin to grind the iron to the precise shape using my eye as the guide.
The approach to the cutting edge should be even and consistent in thickness throughout the process, and the bevel should be ground with only one facet across its face. I use a Veritas tool rest, which is articulated and slotted for the stone, so I can get good support all the way along my iron as I grind. With a good sense of touch and great care, it’s possible to have the iron rest flat on the bevel on the honing stone.
For one-off irons, I generally use a medium diamond plate followed by Japanese stones (#800, #1,200 and #4,000 grit).
The throughput with this device is amazing (I often sharpen 30-40 chisels and 30 block, jack and smoothing planes over a four-hour period). I check that the two bevels are parallel to the plane body profile, and that the intersection of the bevels matches the arris on the plane profile.  If the intersection is misplaced, both bevels must be reworked.
Maintaining this part of the iron fat until this point keeps me from being found slumped over my bench crying a bucket full of tears. It took a lot of rereading and studying the pictures intently to finally discern what was being described. I have a few other projects to finish up until then, but it’s something to keep on the back burner. If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag.
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Each iron is tapered, and of laminated construction – the tool-steel cutting edge is forge-welded to the face of the iron body. I also make sure the iron is parallel over its length, or possibly slightly tapered away from the cutting edge. The fillet bevel is a side bevel and is quite steep, generating more of a scraping action than a cutting action.
To check my progress, I hold the iron firmly to the bed with my thumb with the plane upside down and the toe facing to me. The arris between two adjacent bevels should be sharp, and at the cutting edge, perfectly bisect the angle between the two bevels.
The cutting action happens in the center, between the right and left thirds of the wheel, back and forth. Rather than push the iron straight down the stone, I hold the iron sideways so I’m honing along the length rather than the width of the bevel. Because I work on the upper surface of the machine, a finely attuned sense of touch is necessary to keep the bevels even. Changing only one bevel will move the arris between the two bevels to one side or the other. For years I’ve been looking at old wood plane bodies, wondering how they made all those precision cuts.


Agreed, it is very complex and probably not for everyone, but I thought it was very interesting and I am enjoying it thoroughly. Once I understood what I was looking at, as well as what I should be looking at, the words made more sense. The way I look at it, if I can make a plane such as this then I could accomplish just about any other wood plane as well. Some of the other commenters noted that this operation is probably beyond an average woodworkers skill and more importantly, time.
There appeared to be a great number of assumptions about the target audience but I was so lost in the jargon and lack of illustrations that I just laughed and moved along. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. However, this period wona€™t start before all information obligations laid down in the a€?Consumer Protection (Distance Selling) Regulations 2000a€? have been fulfilled.
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Please note that the Pay Now button is ONLY available after winning an auction or completing a Buy It Now purchase. When you receive your order, please do take a moment to leave us positive feedback on eBay. If your item arrives and you're disappointed, I would appreciate the courtesy and opportunity to make it right. Sharpening this edge to a typical acute angle of 25° or so would give a bevel that is wide and thin and weak in terms of the type of cutting it does.
The width of the fillet bevel could be the same as the thickness of the iron at that point or even a bit less. This reduces the chance of losing the temper of the iron as I work through this massive step. If you cut the fillet edge to size too soon – and make the iron undersized – you’ll have to grind away a lot of iron to recover. As you grind, check that the final width of the bevel is sufficiently wide to give a good cutting angle. I thought the article was a bit wordy in the sense that it carried a lot of overly technical data; at times it seemed to read more like an instruction manual for a fuel injector or a transmission than it did a woodworking article.
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The other two bevels are arrayed more on the leading edge of the iron and are sharpened to a standard bevel (25° – 30°) since they cut in the typical manner (slicing and levering). Use a long thin awl to scribe the plane profile onto the iron, and keep the awl as flat as possible on the bed.
Cool the iron every couple of passes across the stone, and dress the stone on occasion to remove glazing, etc and improve the cutting action. The long edges require more care so they should be done first, while the fillet edge is very short and should be done last. I may need to tweak the tool-rest angle as the bevel develops in order to optimize the cutting angle. It is very important to distribute the pressure evenly along the bevel or you’ll taper the bevel along its length. With that being said, it is an interesting topic, and certainly somebody who could construct this tool has to be pretty talented.
Your Data is not used by or sold to other companies which are or are not affiliated or associated with Tooltime Tools. Please know that your positive feedback and 5 Star rating on eBay to us is appreciated, vital and very valuable to the continued success of our business. The iron is already tempered, and if your iron is also tempered, it’s important to retain that temper as the cutting edge is shaped.
The bevel ideally should have a rhombohedron shape and extend to below the plane body profile. While I understand what those drawings are trying to convey they don’t seem to correlate to the actual pictures of the profiled iron.
Following the return of faulty goods we will inspect them for signs of misuse and or abuse. I am now reading it for the fifth time and it seems very straightforward to me, although the proof will be in actually making my own plane. But even if I would never construct a tool such as this, the article does speak of the ingenuity and talent of the craftsman of the past (and present) who built them. If your item arrives and you're disappointed, I would appreciate the courtesy and opportunity to make it right. All of your purchases can be consolidated into one checkout so you can pay for them all in one go.



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Author: admin | 10.11.2013 | Category: Small Sheds For Sale


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