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Nestled in the forest on a shore of Lake Chelan in central Washington State, Mike Walker's 1,670-square-foot workshop is the epitome of organization. I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible. I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support.
After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids!
One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap.
I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall. What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side?
I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage. I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them.
If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are. You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time.
I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement. I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be.
In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards. Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you! These photos are from one guy’s continually changing and evolving series of workshops, different depending on the focus of his work at any given time, some mechanical, some woodworking and some electronic, but always filled with creative solutions for storage and tool availability, places you could easily lose yourself for many hours at a time. No matter what kind of work you do, if you’re a hands on guy or girl, these have to set you thinking about what you could do with some unused space around your house. I’m in the process of making part of my basement (which connects to my garage) into a workshop. Workshops can be therapy, putting together something like the one pictured above is a project of its own and it creates a nice space, just tinkering on any small project can be relaxing, tunes down low in the background, a few tools next to you on the bench, check this, adjust that, thoughts wandering a bit, … nope, nothing wrong with that at all.
It is funny how it happens that a collection of tools is acquired, then used to build a workshop and then build shelves for all of the tools and supplies.
Gitan, that is the first thing that came to mind as well… at least there would be a milling machine in my dream shop. I think Mr Kneeslider has the point: It is the space, your place to think and even create something. I see many features of this mans shop that I might consider, but for the most part I’m very happy with my layout. If you want to see some nice garages and workshops check out Jay Lenos – his garage has its own website!
With stores nationwide, Sperry is the go-to for their iconic nautical-themed footwear; even if you live nowhere near the ocean. While most people visit the store for footwear, fans of faux beams should look skyward if they ever find themselves in Murray.

The choice of of the Driftwood style is perfect for Sperry – totally in-keeping with the nautical theme of their stores. With real wood beams weighing in at tens or hundreds of pounds, it would be impossible to create an interlaced network of beams like the contractors did for Sperry – installing them in a stylish grid pattern. We’re really excited to see the end result, and hope that Sperry will be choosing our products to outfit more of their stores in the future. These towering roofs were often held aloft with an intricate truss of wooden beams, which distributed the weight evenly to the stone and brick walls. Using real wood beams would be impossible – the sheer weight of a single beam requires significant support, so a truss would need walls almost as thick as a cathedral’s! Our faux wood beams are intricately molded from real timber, so perfectly mimic the look and texture of real wood, but weigh in at under 18lbs each – making it simple and straightforward to mount them to any modern ceiling without reinforcement or bracing. Three-sided wood beams were using for the “chords” – the beams installed on the apex of the ceiling itself. With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves. I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall. I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design).
Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are). Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall.
After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side.
With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials.
My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run.
Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength.
These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal. It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money!
You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion.
If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor. I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.
For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. It’ll be nice to not have to work on the floor or an improvised workbench, and have much better organization than I have now.
Im happy to have my heated shop, with all the tools I need, But I had to equip my wifes car with the Auto Starter to avoid Divorce when I made my Garage into a Bike Shop. I need to get a set of gas logs back into the hearth so I can keep warm whilst tinkering away the next winter.
In Utah, a Sperry outlet gave their retail space design a big lift with Driftwood style beams. The Sperry outlet there recently finished a ceiling project using our Custom Driftwood Beams in Walnut; and the finished design looks fantastic. Even if they could, it would have been prohibitively expensive; and difficult because of the array of ducts and wires weaving their way overhead.
Molded from real driftwood and crafted in lightweight polyurethane foam, they weigh a fraction of and cost significantly less than real wood.
You can cut and shape the beams with regular construction tools like a wood saw; enabling the interlaced grid pattern you can see from the photos. Fortunately, you don’t need to be a millionaire to get that look in your own home, thanks to our synthetic pecky cypress beams. A four-sided wood beam was using for the “king” beam and joining beams, giving the illusion of solid timber. While most people prefer to buy the readymade ones, some of you might think about build your own work bench.
In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…).

Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height).
I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily.
Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall. Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement.
Sort of like a GSX-R with every race component installed but licensed on the street and parked at the local watering hole.
A drive in basement would also make offloading kegs of beer into a kegerator significantly easier.
Example-one of my cabinet workbenches has 12 wall receptacles, and 12 strip receptacles on the face of the cabinets. In addition, the beams are offered in a hollow three-sided style that allows them to slot right over existing ducts, and serve as a channel to run wires and cables through.
After all, our faux beams are designed to mimic the real structural timbers that used to support ceilings and roofs in historic homes.
Our artificial wood beams are molded from polyurethane, which is tough and durable – but easily cut to shape and size with a regular wood saw. If this is the case, I really am glad to show you how to build a work bench and I wish that this solution will help you to save more money.
This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height.
Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks.
Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support. Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in.
Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. Always plugged in are 6 battery chargers, a bench drill press, Tormek sharpening system, a bench grinder, and and amp and tuner, which leaves the left overs for stuff like a soldering iron, heat gun, high-intensity lamp, dremel, etc.
After a few hours of cleaning and organizing, I feel refreshed and ready to take on the next challenge. In order to build your own work bench there is no particularly set of carpentry skills needed, instead, you just need to follow every single step on this how to build a work bench post.Before you start the project, it is important for you determine what the bench will primarily be used for.
My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet.
If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s.
Metal shavings on the floor, grinder dust everywhere, tools left in place for continuing work, etc.
This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall.
I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. Once you are ready with something in mind about how you use the bench anyway, you should check the location where the bench is going to be placed.
It's even more fun when you get back home and in a couple of months see that project in print. There are so many things you should consider here, including the location, the function, how it’s installed, and many more. Everything is set and you are ready to move into the next step, which is build your own workbench, but you need to get the right design before.There are so many sources you could use by the time you want to attain the design that suitable with your needs and looking for it online should be the right thing to do.

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Author: admin | 08.06.2014 | Category: Shed Prices

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