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The result was Maryland pit beef, a regional specialty whose juices run across Maryland and sometimes spill up north to the Pennsylvania border.
Prepared from a lean cut and often served rare, pit beef is not a mascot for long-haul barbecue. Pit beef's familiarity, however, doesn't make it easier to perfect, and placing an order cooked to a specific degree of rarity always carries a degree of risk. You can clear this hurdle by asking to see "the rare for today," a simple test I learned from an old-timer while standing in line at The Canopy in Ellicott City, then gauging your request accordingly.
Pioneer Pit Beef in Woodlawn, on the other hand, takes its competitors to Bovine University with its pit beef, which is intensely smoky, forcefully seasoned, and seared to a char. That said, I can't say exactly how Pioneer makes its pit beef as juicy as it is, but even the well-done slices mixed into my medium-rare sandwich were surprisingly moist.
Pioneer's hand-cut fries splashed with brown gravy are an ideal complement to the pit beef.
James Boo has been a Serious Eats contributor since 2010, writing on barbecue - among other foods, people, and places.


Outside of Serious Eats, James works as Founder and Editor-in-Chief of the $10-or-less dining guide, Real Cheap Eats. In his most recent interview with the Serious Eats team, James refers to reading The Fountainhead as a "guilty displeasure." He stands by this statement, but will not stand by indiscriminate use of pork belly in New York restaurants. Frequently served alongside other meats under the umbrella of "pit BBQ," pit beef is typically a top roast that's been minimally seasoned, grilled directly over charcoal, and sliced deli-style to produce a sandwich that would make Arby's eat its hat. A pile of wood cords lay at the base of Bull on the Run's smoker, but it was used to fuel the fire rather than impart flavor. I was reminded of this at Expressway Pit Beef in Odenton; while pleasantly smoky on its edges, the pit beef I had ordered medium-rare arrived mostly medium and unpleasantly tough in a few spots. The almost-rare meat I sampled in this way struck a nice balance of flavors, dropping hints of smoke, salt and pepper amidst the mild taste of roast beef. The slicer, who takes every order, cuts a single slice of beef from the round, still steaming, and hands it over to the customer for approval before sandwich construction begins. Pioneer also offers its sandwiches au jus—with all the juices, a dash of black pepper, and smear of horseradish, you have a salty, smoky, county take on the French dip.


Crisp at first, the fries turn into mashed potatoes sopping up gravy by the end of the meal.
Working as a freelance journalist, he is also the founder of Real Cheap Eats and a documentarian. He's also edited and written for his own international food and travel blog, The Eaten Path, since 2007. Horseradish, mayo, and thin-sliced raw onion were on hand to complete the sandwich, which usually isn't much more than a fresh but familiar roast beef.
At the top of its game, Canopy's sandwich was a pit-perfect execution of the same standard served at Expressway and Bull on the Run: tender, precisely-cooked roast beef with a peck of smoke and grit.



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Author: admin | 30.10.2015 | Category: Building A Shed Floor


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