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Once you’re back at the shop, the first step is to cut out the many circles that make up the layers of the shelving unit.
Now, it’s time to start making the 48 straight-cut pieces that form the shelves and backbone of the unit’s body. With the large boxes built and set aside for the glue to dry, move on to the eight smaller boxes that make up the remaining shelves. The bearing comes with a series of plastic feet on each ring, but has screw holes only in the inner race for attaching it to a surface.
Next, centre the lazy Susan bearing assembly inside the MDF ring with the countersunk holes you drilled in the outer race facing up.
The easiest way to build the body is to start with the five 22″-diameter discs and the four large boxes. Now, it’s time to install the lower base disc, which has the lazy Susan bearing and ring attached. As an extra touch, I added a few small, pie-shaped shelves to bridge the area between the large and small boxes and break up some of the taller spaces. Go over the entire unit and fill the nail holes, then sand everything to get ready for painting.
It’s now time to take your rotating bookcase for a spin, after loading it up with books, keepsakes and other treasures. To make the project more elegant and keep exposed end-grain to a minimum, I capped the tabletop and bench ends with strips of wood. I opted for half-lap joinery to connect the legs to the supports; this adds legroom and increases strength. To begin making the top and bench assemblies, prepare your stock for the slats and the breadboard ends.
Take a look at the plans and you’ll see that the slats for the tabletop and bench need tenons on both ends that fit into corresponding mortises in the breadboard ends. It’s always good practice to cut mortises before tenons, since tenon thicknessis easier to adjust after the fact than mortise width.
When a mortise is going to be close to an end-grain edge, as in the case of the first and last mortises in all the breadboard pieces, you need to leave support in place.
Turn your attention to the leg assemblies and the angled half-lap joints I told you about earlier. To cut the lap joints in the table and bench supports, set your dado blade to take a 5?8″-deep cut, which is half the thickness of the parts you’re working on.
Get ready to put the leg assemblies together by drilling angled holes for pocket screws to attach the benches and the top. Secure you leg assemblies with more outdoor-rated polyurethane glue and clamp them together. I brushed on an exterior primer, then sprayed a couple of coats of CIL marine enamel in Ensign Red, sanding lightly between coats.
I protected the end-grain of the table legs from moisture damage with 1?4″- thick brass bar stock.
Put the shoes on the legs and your table is ready to be moved to a sunny (or shady) spot in the yard.
If you’re ready to learn a few new tricks that will enhance your DIY world, you’ve come to the right place! However, if one doesn’t maintain our work spaces, it just becomes an unproductive holding tank for your junk. I sincerely believe you can have a workshop if you have even just a closet, spare room, or even a simple drawer. MMS ~ “I am very fortunate to have about 900 glorious square feet of workshop in my basement. After you leave your comment, make sure you head on down to Mustard Seed Creations for your first session on becoming a decorative painter.
I just happened to mention in a recent post that I took over a small space in our garage {I can put heat on in there}. I stopped and asked one of the guys working on one of the new construction houses yesterday for an estimate on building me some shelves above that dead space above my garage door for storing my seasonal decor. Oh – my shoulders deflated (for real) when I saw that first pic – I REALLY thought that was your shop and was about to cry!
Regardless of the size and style of your box, building begins with the panelled side frames. You also need to prepare slots on the ends of the horizontal rails and vertical panel dividers to accommodate the splines that connect the frame members.
After this work is done, prepare cardboard templates to lay out the decorative profiles for the bottom rails.
Next, cut out the panels and splines from material that has been machined with the thickness planer to fit precisely in the frame grooves.
While you are admiring your workmanship, take a moment to think about how you’re going to finish the project.
After the brushes are put away, grab a bottle of weatherproof glue and assemble the frames for the final time.
The bottom panel of the box rests on wooden cleats secured to the inside faces of the lower rails. After removing the clamps on the bottom panel, sand the surfaces, trim the wood to size, put a few drips of glue on the cleats, then drop the panel into the box. If you glued up the lid panel earlier, trim the panel to size and round over the edges on all four sides with a router spinning a 3?8″-radius bit. When this work is done, prepare the parts for the three-sided frame that’s mounted on top of the lid to accommodate the seat cushion. I attached the lid to the box using a pair of brass hinges (Stanley 80-3250) and installed a restraint chain to prevent the lid from opening too wide.
Now, remove all the hardware you just worked so hard to install, give the project a final sanding, and then apply the finish of your choice to the remaining exposed surfaces.
If you’re currently designing a shop for where you are, or your eventual dream shop, check out my previous posts, “Revolutionize Your Woodworking Enjoyment, Part I”, “Revolutionize Your Woodworking Enjoyment, Part II”, and “Revolutionize Your Woodworking Enjoyment, Part III”.  Let me know what else you would like me to explore so you can have a more complete design. I kept filling in each category with exact details—stuff to buy, specific things to design and build, and things to consider for each station, and any other solutions to frustrations I made note of. The difference between a 2-car and 3-car garage is the extra maneuvering room you’ll have, plus you can add luxury machines like a drum sander, 2nd bandsaw, 2nd assembly table, etc. I got lucky and spotted one for sale that had a totally open (no posts in the middle) 3-car garage, and was affordable since the house portion was only 1,600 sq.
Now that I have a 3-car garage shop, I’m glad that I started work on my ideal woodshop design early. Leave a comment below and tell everyone what you’re doing with your current shop, and what your plans are.  The more we share the more everyone can enjoy the craft, and the more people can benefit from what we make. Connect with me on Facebook, and follow me on Twitter for more ninja tips to Optimize Your Woodshop! Enter your name and email below to get your free copy of this organized and detailed checklist to jump-start your woodshop design today! Also, you’ll get weekly WoodChip Tips, design ideas, free useful downloads, free mini-courses, and other cool stuff in The Other Side of Zero newsletter! Hi My name is samuel, I have been in the construction industry for 15 years and have always used my garage as a shop, if it could be called that.
How I went from a cluttered and disorganized shop to a super-productive layout with a convenient dust collection and electrical set-up. To make my circles, I used a shopmade circle-cutting jig mounted to my bandsaw to make the process as quick, accurate and dust-free as possible. Glue and pocket-hole screws driven through the top and bottom pieces, dowels or biscuits all work; even countersunk and plugged screws or glue and finishing nails are fine.


Apply a bit of glue to the top and bottom surfaces of each small box, and slide each one into place so it butts up against a large box, covering the screw heads from the previous step.
With the shelf body sitting upside down, place the lower base disc in position and centre it. These came from offcuts cut to fit and are attached with glue and brads driven through the box sides and into the edge of each pie-shaped shelf. You can use a high-adhesion, latex primer and regular latex paint for this unit (sanding lightly between coats to remove any fuzz) or, if you are so equipped, a spray-on finish is easier.
This detail is called “breadboard” ends, and although it adds a lot to the project—including stability and durability—you can leave it out if you want to simplify the design. The weak points of most picnic tables are the feet, since the end-grain surfaces draw up moisture. It’s important that the distances between the tenon shoulders on all these parts are exactly the same. I used a hollow chisel-mortising machine to remove the wood, but you could also use a Forstner bit in a drillpress. I like to use a dado blade in my tablesaw for this job, although you can certainly cut tenons by hand too. A mitre saw is a great tool for the angled cuts on these parts, although a tablesaw works fine too, especially with help from that drafting square.
Use polyurethane glue and stainless-steel #8 x 11?2″ round-head screws to hold everything together. You simply need to make corresponding 45o cuts on each end of the braces so that they measure 151?2″ between the long points.
In order for the wood to have a little tooth to hold onto the painted finish, I stopped sanding at only 80 grit. If you’re going this route, wear a respirator and goggles, and work in a well-ventilated area. Then I filed a chamfer around the edge on the bottom side, and drilled and countersunk holes in each shoe for some #8 x 1″ brass screws.
She’s going to guide you through all the steps of getting set up so you too can give it a whirl.
The mess above resulted over the Christmas holidays when I was renoing and decorating under a deadline. This mess WILL be organized, to help encourage you to follow along and create your own productive space along with me!
You don’t have adequate space for a workshop, so this seminar can’t possibly apply to you?
At the end of this series, we’ll be having a before and after MckLinky event so we can share all the hard work we’ve accomplished! I am going to junk out our basement, it is the place that is supposed to be our workshop, but it hasn’t seen any decent work in ages.
Unfortunately it’s an unheated garage which means that will have to wait until it gets warmer.
This elegant cedar deck box offers extra seating for unexpected guests as well as plenty of storage under the lid for cushions, small gardening tools and other odds and ends that may be cluttering up your outdoor living space.
These frames have rails, stiles and panel dividers joined with spline joints that surround solid-wood panels.
Slots are required on both edges of the vertical panel dividers, but on only the inward-facing edges of all the other parts. I completed these by running the parts, on end, over the tablesaw blade using the same set-up and cut depth I used when cutting the panels grooves.
The splines that connect the lower rails to the legs should be long enough to extend all the way to the bottom of the legs, to fill the exposed gaps on the feet as I mentioned previously. If you plan on using contrasting colors, as I did, then it’s easier to apply the finish before the parts are assembled.
Working quickly, apply glue to the splines, then bring the frame members together with the panels in place. Cut the cleats to size, then attach them to the rails with glue and rust-resistant screws, installed from the inside of the box. Cut out blanks for all four sides, mitre the ends at 45° and glue the parts together using a web clamp to secure the joints.
Cut a 2″-radius curve on the front ends of the side cushion rails, then attach the rails to the rear cushion rail with glue and counterbored screws.
After reattaching the lid and adding a comfortable seat cushion to the top, the deck box is ready to move outside, where your friends and family can enjoy your fine craftsmanship. For now, I have rearranged this layout (to angle the machines better), and I’m currently making changes to my dust collection to accommodate it. Next, reinforce each joint by laying out, drilling and countersinking holes for screws that will pass through the bottom of each disc and into the side panels of each box.
Secure the small boxes with a couple of brads, wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth and allow the glue to dry. Rotate the lower base disc on the lazy Susan bearing until you can see a screw hole through the 1″-diameter port you bored earlier. I sent my shelf out to a local kitchen-cabinetry company and had them finish my shelf in their spray booth with a few coats of snow-white lacquer.
If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can use standard 11?2″-thick lumber cut to the right width, but remember to account for this change in dimensions when building the project. Cut six 3?16″-wide spacers from scrap wood to create equal spacing between the slats.
Bore overlapping, 3?8″-diameter holes in the area of each mortise, removing as much wood as possible before using a sharp chisel for final cleaning and squaring up. As you work, make absolutely sure that each lap cutout is located on the correct face of each piece. Use the 60o corner to adjust the mitre gauge, make a test cut on some scrap, then complete cuts on the legs before bringing one piece over to your full-size drawing.
Begin by making test cuts on a couple of pieces of scrap, then lay them together to check the fit. An 80-grit paper creates an excellent surface for any outdoor finish that forms a protective film over the wood. Perhaps you have a vehicle swallowing every square inch of your own garage, or worse, no garage at all. Just replace the contents with the tools of your personal choice and you’ll have everything right at your fingertips ready to DIY on the run! So count me in, this weekend it is clean up time (after I try to take some before pictures in a dark basement, wish me luck on that). I do have three out buildings — one was the original one room school house for the town and has been deemed my studio!
My biggest issue is where to hang the bikes in our tiny garage to make room for the work bench to be. Build the project without a lid and drill a few drainage holes in the bottom to adapt this versatile design to create a matching planter box. You may have noticed that the groove on the legs will be visible on the feet as they extend below the lower rails, but this exposure isn’t a problem because you’ll be plugging these gaps with filler strips later on. When I did this step, I used a pushstick to keep my fingers a safe distance from the saw blade as I guided the material from the bottom.
Transfer these patterns to the rail blanks, cut out the shapes with a jigsaw or bandsaw, then sand the edges with a drum sander to clean up any saw marks. Finishing before final assembly sidesteps the need for taping and prevents painting errors caused by an unsteady hand. Be sure to keep glue out of the frame slots so the inserts are free to move with seasonal humidity changes.


Now, you need to edge-glue boards to create a wide panel for the bottom and another for the lid panel. That spring-clamp tip I mentioned earlier also works well to keep the mitred ends aligned while the glue cures. Install wood plugs to cover the screw heads and give the three-sided frame a final sanding before securing it to the lid with more counterbored screws installed from underneath. Use that hole to drive #8 x 1″-long screws into each of the six holes in the inner bearing race, anchoring the lower base disc to the body.
Alternatively, you could use pieces of solid-wood composite deck stock or a rot-resistant hardwood such as white oak. I drew full-size end view of the table on a sheet of 1?4″ MDF to make sure I had everything right. Make sure you have enough leftover scrap stock of both thicknesses to prepare test pieces while tooling up for the mortise- and-tenon and half-lap joinery later.
Mark the shoulders of the tenons on the face of each slat with a sharp pencil, marking gauge or utility knife. If you’re using a tablesaw, use a mitre gauge to support the wood as you nibble away at the tenon.
You’ll get best results if you fasten a 30″ piece of plywood or hardwood to your tablesaw mitre gauge to stabilize your workpiece and reduce blade tearout along the back of each cut. Clamp a stop block on your auxiliary mitre gauge fence and make the corresponding top cuts. Adjust the depth of the dado until you get a joint that touches in the middle yet is flush on the faces.
You could also drive #10 x 3″ screws down through the top of the benchtop and tabletop into the leg assemblies, but pocket screws hide the fasteners. Install the braces with a pair of screws on each end, fastening them into the bench supports, and the underside of the tabletop’s centre slat. Whether you live in an apartment or on 10 acres, if you desire a work area for your DIY projects, this seminar is most definately for you! You’ll be shown all the steps needed to get your stuff to the right destinations, so be sure to tune in next Wednesday to hopefully see some slight improvement. You can also expand the dimensions to construct a larger box, with even more storage and seating for two. Use three or four biscuits spaced along each set of legs to keep the corner joints aligned during final assembly. Next, head over to the tablesaw and bevel the outside edges of the legs, with the blade tilted 45° from vertical. With the splines and panels on hand, you’re ready to dry-fit the frames to see if all the parts are going to fit according to plan. For my project, I started the finishing process by staining the exposed edges of the frame members and both sides of the panels. Now, take the completed frames and join them together at the corners with glue and biscuits to form a box.
The finished dimensions for both are included on the parts list, but make them slightly oversized so you have room for trimming. Now, take the completed frame and route a decorative profile on the outside edges using a handheld router and a 1?4″-radius roundover bit. Next, adjust your jig to cut five more circles at 22″ for the dividers between each section.
This hole allows you to drive the screws that attach the lazy Susan bearing to the rest of the unit during assembly later. If a split appears, apply glue into the crack with the screw in place, and then back out the screw slowly. Taking your project to a pro can be more practical than trying to deal with finishing in a small, dusty shop. Screw a sacrificial backing fence onto the mitre gauge to prevent tearout as the dado blade exits each piece. Basic cabinets, pegboard, lighting, a heatsource and an insulated new garage door was installed for a great start. I use my garage, and each morning when I walk out to my car I try to close the garage as fast as I can.
When you’re done, pair up the legs to form corners, cut slots for #20 biscuits, then mark the leg tops so the corresponding parts can be reunited quickly during final assembly of the mitred leg joints. If you follow this method, be careful not to contaminate the unglued wood joints with stain; glue can’t hold to stained wood. Wrap the entire assembly with web clamps to secure the joints, then square the bottom opening by equalizing the diagonal measurements.
Here’s a handy tip when edge-gluing boards: apply spring clamps to the ends of the joints to keep the surfaces aligned under pressure from the main clamps. The opening in the links is also the perfect size to accommodate the #8 round-head screws I used to attach the chain to the lid and the box.
When the feet are removed, you will be left with a series of flat-bottomed holes in the ring. I wanted a smooth, relatively knot-free wood for painting, so I chose yellow cedar, but other great options are red or white cedar, hemlock or even an exotic wood such as cypress. Next, clamp the slats into three assemblies: one with five slats for the table, and two with two slats each for the benches. To locate the laps properly, the easiest and fastest way is simply to transcribe directly from the full-size plan onto the pieces themselves.
Also, leave the faces of the frames unfinished until after assembly, since you’ll need to sand the joints flat and smooth after they come together.
After the glue is dry, trim the protruding parts of the splines at the bottom of the legs with a handsaw and sand the surfaces flush.
I counterbored my screws 5?16″ deep and concealed the heads with tapered wooden plugs. Using a chisel and a block plane, adjust the tenons for a perfect fit into the mating mortises. It’s a good idea to lay all the parts for each leg assembly down together in their proper orientation so each piece of the puzzle can be seen in relation to its neighbour. I used Sico’s exterior-grade translucent stain for this project–it offers excellent UV protection and provides a durable finish that resists scuffing and fading. This is also a good time to give the unfinished faces of the frames a final sanding before moving on. Now all you have to do is hold the corresponding breadboard piece into position up against the ends of the slats and transfer all the tenon locations to the faces of the breadboard ends.
You’ll find it necessary to alternate between the right- and left- hand 60o settings on your mitre gauge to complete all the lap cuts.
I prefer stain to paint for outdoor projects because paint tends to flake and peel over time as the wood is exposed to the elements.
Continue this process, rotating each box by 90° to the one below it until you have the whole assembly together. Draw an “x” in each mortise location to indicate where you will remove wood so you don’t cut in the wrong place. Use your drafting square to adjust the angle of the gauge and test the results against your full-size plan.



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Author: admin | 10.04.2016 | Category: Aluminum Sheds


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