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The only pocket hole joinery used for these wall shelf plans is right angle joinery.The Kreg right angle clamp is very helpful with those joints. This photo is showing the shelf pocket holes after they have been plugged, but it also shows you where they need to be drilled. TIP: If you drill ?” PHs facing UPWARD on inside of aprons, you can use those PHs later on to attach seat. Now this will be a little challenge – cutting all the little pieces out with a jigsaw. Although I could have chosen to remove the waste from within each notch with the radial-arm saw, I used a bandsaw instead. Predrill screw holes through the middle of the grooves in the top side pieces, then join all the slats to one top side edge using #10 x 3″ wood screws without glue. Cut the top ends, mitre their ends, then join these to the rest of the growing frame without glue. Construction-grade spruce is often overlooked as a choice for furniture, mostly due to its reputation for twisting and being difficult to finish. Most of us are familiar with spruce framing material that’s available as 2x4s or in the larger widths for floor joists.
Remove all screws, apply glue to the joints, then reassemble everything permanently with screws.


Still, I remember a few projects by Steve Maxwell, CHW’s technical editor, who more than once dared to build furniture from spruce. Many pieces of this wood will have defects-knots, twists, warps, bows and wane-but not all.
Even kiln-dried construction-grade lumber will be too wet and unstable to build furniture with. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.
Be sure the screw heads are countersunk below the surface so they won’t interfere when you glue the fill strips in place over top.
Stack it in a dry, heated place, then let it sit there for two or three weeks, ideally, with a fan blowing on the wood. Use a square and pencil to make a line directly across both edges, showing where each edge of each slat belongs. Continue flipping the stock end-for-end, and by the fourth or fifth pass, you’ll have a flat-bottomed notch with straight edges. This step will make your boards straight, true and flat-ready for cutting the top slats, top sides and top ends.
To get the right profile on the posts, look at the full-size template, or use the grid diagram to draw your own.


Use a stop block on your tablesaw or mitre saw to get the exact, matching lengths for each of these parts. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. The extra width may come in handy later when you’re fitting the slats in the tabletop. Centre each brace onto the top end of a post and secure them with washers and three 21?2″-long screws. Cut two wedges to shape using the plans, then use a chisel to square up and taper the 1?2″-diameter hole you bored earlier through the stretcher. I sanded the entire project up to 220-grit paper, then finish it with three coats of satin wipe-on polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.
Using construction-grade lumber for a project saves choice boards from the boring fate of being hidden away forever as joists or wall studs.



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Author: admin | 13.12.2015 | Category: Building A Shed Floor


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