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Half a year ago my wife and I celebrated our second anniversary by driving from Pennsylvania to Utah and back. You will also need three thicker pieces for main supports: one in the middle and one on each side. Even if you did an amazing job with your drilling jig, you’ll see uneven areas in your surface.
A very nice visual and practical touch that you will not want to skip is the rounding of the edges. A couple coats of satin finish polyurethane to protect and bring out the color and… done! I had planned to make a desk top using 2 large wood slabs joined to make the top and have two desk bases from my Mom’s old sewing table. My husband and I were discussing ideas for building new countertops last night and really wanted to do something with wood.
Hi, I was inspired by your work and will try to make a dinner table using a similar design. It has two drawers, and I used my interlocking router bits for the drawer joinery (at left). All other boards should be cut into lengths of 10 or 18 inches (or whatever you decide for your top and bottom).
Now is the time to break out your plane and go to town on the surface, getting it as even and as smooth as possible.


Take your three pairs of boards, sand them down and lay in each set in on either side of the center support so that they share the center support.
However, I did go in and stain a few pieces and painted a few pieces various shades of blue with acrylic paint. The legs themselves were bought from Home Depot and are the only non-pallet part of the table. We live up the susquehanna a bit from you in lancaster and are working on remodeling a house using trash and natural materials. Yeah, I would think that as long as it’s on a solid base, glue should work just fine.
I would like to sink the machine a few inches so that while sewing the needle and needle plate would be level with the table.
The threaded rods worked fine for this table, but something sturdier wouldn’t have hurt.
I did not have the appropriate tools to tackle a project like this, so it took me many days. I would LOVE to see photos of your creation, and even feature it in my follow up article that shows tables that were modeled after mine, if you’re OK with that.
I have a question, something I just can’t figure out: How did you fit the legs to the top? Research this before getting started and take the necessary precautions!) I pleaded for pallets on Facebook and within a few days was driving home with about ten of them in the back of my truck.
Not only does it add a nice visual element, but it also lets the person using the desk better reach the far corners. The whole thing was then sanded down to smooth the table top and distress these color additions.
Sinking the sewing machine will be a challenge if you’re using the threaded rod method.
I found I needed to cut the ends that meet in the middle as they weren’t perfectly square.
Unless you find pallets with extra wide pieces, cutting out the sunken portion probably won’t leave enough room for the rod. The minimum is important because each piece will need to support the drilling of two fairly large holes and this is difficult when there’s little height with which to work.
Do some careful measuring and cut a section out of each support that matches the height of your middle boards. I marked where I wanted the two drill holes and I hammered a large nail at the center of each drill location.
Once the middle ends are all butted up against each other and squared off, mark your cuts for the outer edges and trim those as well.
I again experimented with using a jigsaw to help with the rounding, but the splintering was unacceptable. On the underside of the table top I chiseled out four square holes to match up with my four table legs. If you add extra cross supports along the bottom, you can have the rods go just partway across the table and stop at the sunken part.


But beyond that, she wanted a collaboration space where other artists could work with her side by side. I then decided to use my circular saw to cut each pallet slat on both ends to separate them from their outer supports. The maximum is important because you don’t want to end up with one or two pieces that are extra long sticking down below your table.
After you have about eight on a side, use a hammer to occasionally tap the pieces together toward the center. You’ll then need to build a platform for the sewing machine which you can attach to the table in any number of ways.
But if you’re without one (like I am), a large helping of patience can take its place.
With both ends free I was able to twist the piece back and forth until the nails separated from the middle support. Find some of the nicest boards you were able to glean from your pallets, and make sure you have matching pairs.
You’ll tighten everything with a nut later, but do all you can to keep them tight from the start. Mine were too high, so I used a chisel to take off some of the height from the bottom of the boards where the they rested on the supports.
This is important as it is a large table and would be difficult (and maybe impossible) to get through doorways if the legs were attached.
I had a standard circular saw, an electric drill, a plane and a belt sander that I borrowed from my father. Place it on top of another piece, aligning to the end that’s going to be butted up against the middle section of your table. So after drawing in the curve, I disassembled the bottom section and cut each piece at my mark by hand. With a total table top depth of 42 inches, that left me with 28 inches for the top and bottom. If you plan on cutting a curve into the bottom section as I did, make sure your hole positions aren’t going to get in the way. As you can see in the photo, I had to drill up higher for my lower hole so that I could cut my curve without worries. Whatever tool you use, cut an area large enough that will allow your nut to be inset and will allow your ratchet to fit over the nut. You can then proceed with threading nuts onto each of the rods and tightening everything up.



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Author: admin | 05.08.2013 | Category: Small Storage Buildings


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