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Disclaimer: Some logos and graphics on our web site are the trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective companies. We all want to go faster, every one of us – even you over there, sitting at the back trying to look inconspicuous. Well, after days of office arguing we’ve come up with what we think are officially the ten best ways to make your car faster.
So read on and check out the best ways, what they do, how hard they are, and what they cost. Regular servicing, including changing the various fluids and filters, is vital if you want to keep your car delivering the performance it was designed to give. Not only that, but on tuned motors it’s a good idea to take your car to a respected tuner once a year so, as well as regular servicing, they can check and adjust fuel and boost pressures, ignition timing, and if necessary, the mapping of the car’s ECU to keep the car running at peak performance.
It’s not unusual for some cars to need quite large adjustments, even when they seem to be running perfectly fine. Almost all cars come with restrictive inlet and exhaust systems as standard, mainly to cut down on noise, but also to deliberately reduce power levels for economy and reliability reasons.
Because of this, it’s not uncommon to gain 5-10 percent extra power from a full exhaust system, decat pipe and induction kit on a modern car.
A performance ECU chip is also a simple mod, improving power and drivability for relatively little cash. Nitrous is an oxygen-rich compressed gas, which, when injected into the engine with the corresponding amount of extra fuel, gives an immediate boost in power. Most standard production cars can happily withstand a 50bhp increase in power via nitrous with no ill-effects, and that’s enough to make any car a load faster. You’ve probably noticed the difference in performance of your car when you’re on your own in it and when it’s fully loaded, especially in small cars.
Well, apart from not giving fat birds lifts, another good plan for more performance is to strip the car out. This is neither cheap nor easy, but increasing the capacity of your engine is always a great way to improve all-round power and torque.
There is a double advantage when this is done to a turbocharged motor, because when you increase the capacity you don’t just get the aforementioned gains in power and torque, but a bigger engine means more exhaust gas too. The only disadvantage is that some stroker kits can make your safe rev limit slightly lower, but the fact the new stroker crank is often far stronger than standard means the safe rev limit can sometimes actually be higher.
Japanese cars have the most widely available stroker kits, but they are common enough for most other types of engines, and if you’re willing to pay for it, many specialist engine component manufacturers will design and build a long-stroke crank and conrod setup for your car. On some cars it’s also possible to use the larger bottom ends from other models to increase the capacity. What better way to make your car quicker than to rip out its wheezing old lump and fit something bigger and more powerful?


Some engine swaps are easy, where it’s just a drop-in replacement, but really the only limits to the swaps are your imagination and your wallet!
Common transplants are VR6 and 1.8 Turbo engines into Mk2 Golfs, Zetec engines into CVH-powered Fords, S14 SR20 and Skyline engines into S13 200SXs, Mi16 and GTi-6 engines into Pug 205s, and so on. As well as the engine you will need the wiring loom, ECU, and all that sort of thing from the donor car, and often the gearbox and other parts, too. Turbo and supercharger conversions are never cheap, but if you want the maximum amount of power possible from your engine, it’s really the only way to go. On a normally aspirated engine even 100bhp per litre is considered highly tuned, and 150bhp per litre is usually reserved for mega-budget race engines.
This is hard to imagine unless you’ve experienced it, so you will have to take our word for it, but lowering the gearing of your car (either with a close-ratio gearbox or low-ratio diffs) will drastically improve your car’s acceleration, in exchange for a lower top speed.
Often this can be achieved by swapping your gearbox or diffs with a unit from a different model from the same company, but if there are none available there are many aftermarket transmission specialists than will be happy to help you out. Prime examples of how low gearing massively helps acceleration are Renault 5 GT Turbos, modern WRC cars, and the famous MINE’s R34 Skyline GTR demo car.
Best of all, basic brake upgrades such as better discs and pads are pretty cheap, so you don’t need to break the bank to achieve some big performance gains. The next step is some drilled or grooved standard-size discs, and again it’s quite a cheap and straightforward upgrade.
Sticking with standard-width normal road tyres won’t do much good when you’ve seriously bumped up the power, so it’s time for some fat, sticky tyres. Companies such as Yokohama make specialist track tyres that give a massive amount of grip, and BF Goodrich make low-profile drag tyres that will give you immense standing start grip, though they don’t last long. Unsatisfied worker at the airport decided to take revenge for the dismissal by completely destroying a parked airplane. In the past we have seen gains of nearly 30bhp, just from a dyno operator adjusting the ignition timing to its optimum.
Filter and exhaust combos don’t cost a fortune either, so should be the first performance mods you buy.
Remember the gas doesn’t last long, so you’ll need to pay for re-fills – approx ?55 for an 11lb bottle. Things such as seats, interior trim, ICE, sound deadening, the spare wheel and air conditioning systems all weigh a hell of a lot. Once you want to spend some money you can replace your standard seats with lightweight fibreglass or carbon fibre buckets, glass windows with Perspex, and steel panels with fibreglass or carbon ones. This is done by totally rebuilding the engine with a new longer-stroke crankshaft to increase the swept capacity of the engine. This means your turbo will spin up much sooner, and also enables you to run a much bigger turbo than you could on the smaller engine, but without giving any more lag.


Examples of this are the Zetec bottom end that RS Turbos often use, 2ltr bottom ends on Mk2 Golf GTis, and RB30 bottom ends on Skylines. It’s not the most straightforward mod in the world, but can totally transform your car and can even work out cheaper than tuning your existing engine.
Well, the best way to get more in there is to force it in under pressure with a bloody great fan! But in turbo engines, 100bhp per litre is considered ordinary, and upwards of 250bhp per litre is possible from the majority of engines. If your brakes are pants then you’ll be off the accelerator and jumping on the stoppers far earlier than you would with a good brake setup, and over a long stretch of road or track this will make you significantly slower overall. The most basic mod would involve some uprated brake pads; this can be a great upgrade and often only costs about 50 quid.
If you want a serious brake setup then many companies can do you a big brake conversion that consists of massive discs and equally huge calipers, giving unbeatable stopping power. Uprated fluid, brake lines and braces to keep the master cylinder steady are also important and fairly cheap upgrades that can be done. You might have 300bhp, but when a standard car leaves you for dead as your car just sits there in a cloud of wheelspin, it’s pretty pointless isn’t it?! There’s a huge range available, and not only will the extra grip help your acceleration, it will improve your cornering speeds, and reduce braking distances too. After being fired, a former employee went to an excavator and started him destroying a jet of the Russian airline UTair. Some dolt in a car that is probably four times the vehicle they should ever need was filmed making an ass of himself while endangering not only himself, but everyone around him, for the sake of the show. Mittiga Tuning (Rome, Italy) built a darting hot hatch capable of leaving most other econoboxes with one choice: eating its dust. Any unauthorized use of these items by the purchaser shall be the sole responsibility of the purchaser.
With them removed you’ll not only have faster acceleration, but also better braking and handling, too. If you’ve got good anchors you can stay on the gas until the last minute, maximizing acceleration time and minimizing braking time, improving your average speed and making you faster in the long run. Last couple of years a variety of flares and over fenders appeared on the market mostly for Japanese cars. By purchasing these logos, you are indicating that you have authority and permission to use the logo or trademark.



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