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After a national search, several journal courier trips and plenty of nail-biting moments, we’ve successfully managed to piece together the last remaining pages of The Engineer, to finally make our online archive complete! Choose your spangles, don’t get too crazy, stick to 9-13 sequins to put in the tube.  If you are creating your own I SPY be sure to write down the sequins you are using (so you don’t forget). Start off with filling the tube with a big pinch of the pellets, then a sequin, then another pinch of pellets, then another sequin… and so on & so on until you use them all.
Don’t fill to the top, leave about a half an inch from the top so the contents can shift a little to make the sequins searchable.
While holding the tube onto the card, use the awl to poke a small hole on either side of the tube through the cardstock. Thread the twine through both holes and knot around the back of the 4×6 card to secure the tube to the front. Please do not copy directions, ingredients, or pdf files for your own website or Facebook page, visuals or words. All work by Mama Miss is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License. This work by Mama Miss is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.
For us in Colorado, we will go from a mountain zone 3, foothills zone 4 and plains zone 5 state to a predominantly zone 4,5,6 state.
The reason for the revision is the markedly higher temperatures seen in the climate data collected from 1987 to 2001. How can the homeowner keep shrubs and trees healthy during the spring and throughout the year? For an answer to this question, it’s important to know something about the needs of healthy plants. Capacity to make and store nutrients: This is important to all plants and it is not as simple as it may seem. If graphed, the carbohydrate storage curve would be high in early spring, just before trees leaf out.
Though summer is hot, the healthy plant will continue to make and store nutrients sufficient to carry it through the winter.
By knowing this cycle, it becomes apparent that the plant must be healthy enough to manufacture, store and use adequate nutrients throughout the year. Soil moisture: Too little or too much moisture will result in a tree dying back or dying off.
By understanding these and other plant needs, you will know how to provide healthy plant care, not only each spring, but throughout the year.
Overwatering, very common with newly transplanted trees, forces oxygen out of the soil around the roots and can lead to death of a tree. To water a newly transplanted tree, you might want to use a soil needle or root feeder attachment to a garden hose. During the first year, the balled and burlapped transplants showed the least new growth of the three production methods. The production method is inconclusive as far as determining which trees showed the most new growth. Fabric container trees required more frequent irrigation than did the balled and burlapped trees. Under high temperatures and drought conditions, fabric container trees showed stress earlier than did the B & B or plastic container trees. Because of the vigorous ash root system, the fabric bags were more difficult to remove from the ash than from the oaks or pines. No fabric container trees were lost at transplant, while some B & B and plastic container trees were lost. The fabric container trees were much easier to handle, as the root balls were much smaller and lighter than the B & B or plastic container tree rot balls.
If you’re thinking about planting trees or shrubs this fall, be aware that in the metro area, they need to be in the ground by October 15.
Though spring is the best time to plant, fall works well if you’re willing to properly prepare soil, and to water the new transplants through dry winter periods. Before purchasing trees or shrubs, ask these ten questions about yourself and the plants you want. Will this plant be located far enough away from the house, driveway, front entry and neighbor’s property?
For more information about selecting, planting, and caring for trees and shrubs, contact your county Colorado State University Cooperative Extension office.
But, before we dream about their beauty and the cooling shade trees supply through the summer, let’s consider The Ten Commandments of tree planting. Denver’s dry climate and generally poor, alkaline soils present some difficulties for trees.
Here are guidelines to help ensure that the tree you buy and plant this year will be part of your landscape in the years ahead. You’ll want to consider that fast-growing trees often are weak and subject to storm damage. Before digging, contact your utility company to mark the location of any underground lines. To prepare the site, mark a circle or square at least 3 times the diameter of the tree’s rootball. To the excavated soil, add 25 percent, by volume, of a coarse organic amendment, such as sphagnum peat, compost or aged manure. For balled and burlapped trees, cut any rope tied around the trunk and pull the burlap away.


Shovel backfill into the hole; continue until roots are covered and most of the backfill is used.
Send your trees into winter with a good supply of moisture by watering them thoroughly in fall. Use crepe paper or other wraps on your deciduous tree trunks about Thanksgiving time; remove the wraps around Easter.
Some nurseries will wrap the trunks to keep damage from occurring to the tender bark on the young trees. When buying container-grown or balled-and-burlapped stock, grab the trunk and give it a gentle push back and forth. If purchasing the plant is part of a day-long shopping trip, make the nursery your last stop. Prepare the soil before planting by adding organic materials, such as compost or composted manure. When planting balled and burlapped trees, dig a dish-shaped hole 3 to 5 times wider than the root ball. Use loose mulch 3 or 4 inches deep on top of the soil in the planting area, but keep the mulch 12 inches away from the trunk.
Contact…Call today and discover the best rates, service and to ensure your trees remain healthy. Enriching the site with crucial links back to relevant pages of the journals, indexing is an invaluable process for those wanting to research deeper into engineering subjects. This little DIY I SPY Valentine is so incredibly easy to put together, let me show you how! The USDA ARS (Ag Research Service) contracted with the AHS (American Hort Society) to crunch the data and create the map. Facts to consider include a plant’s capacity to make and store carbohydrates, enough soil moisture, and soil that has adequate nutrients and is conducive to plant growth. After leaf-out, it would plunge (because the tree has used a lot of stored food energy to put on new leaves). By the end of spring, after a tremendous growth spurt, trees have used up a lot of these nutrients.
In fall, plants begin to lose their leaves and go dormant for winter, and the tree’s food-making capacities slow down. As a rule of thumb, soil needs to be moist to between 12 to 18 inches of depth for most trees and shrubs. However, in our generally high pH soils, nutrients, such as nitrogen, iron, zinc and manganese, can be added. A good indication of too much water is yellowing of the foliage that develops first on the inside leaves and progresses to outer leaves.
These watering techniques will help maintain a high survival percentage to your newly transplanted trees.
Does it make a difference whether it is a balled and burlapped tree, if it was grown in a plastic container or in a grow bag?
The Department of Horticulture is measuring and comparing the growth differences of B & B trees or those grown in a plastic container or grow bag. Thus, more fine roots were removed at transplant time; this may account for the high stress observed with fabric container ash over the oaks and pines. Evergreen trees or shrubs can be used along the north and west sides of the property to break winter winds and to keep your home warmer. In general, most plants with showy flowers are insect-pollinated and do not need to produce huge amounts of pollen. Call the utility locator service to mark the location of gas, electric, telephone and cable lines before you dig planting holes.
Trees which become very large might dwarf a one-story ranch style home and could dominate a small lot, shading out other plants on the property. Trees develop better root systems and can have fewer problems when grown in mulched areas rather than lawn areas. Healthy, long-lived urban trees get off to a good start when we pay attention to some tree-planting fundamentals. The designated site may be in the lawn, near a patio, along a street or sidewalk, in a garden, in sun or in a shaded spot. Deciduous trees will shade the west, south and east sides of the home in summer, and evergreen trees along the west and north edges of the lot will provide winter windbreaks.
You may want privacy, increased property values, a windbreak, shade, fall color, flowers, fruit or a bird habitat. Think about the mature size and shape of trees and learn whether their roots might invade sewer lines, lift and crack sidewalks or make bumpy lawns.
If you can’t plant right away, keep the tree in a cool, shady, protected spot and keep the roots moist. Cut any reinforcement wire, removing as much as possible, but be sure the rootball stays intact. We can imitate this by mulching the planting area with 3 to 4 inches of wood chips, chunk bark, straw, pine needles or shredded leaves.
Research shows that newly planted trees are at a disadvantage when they must compete with grass for water, air and nutrients. The mail-order houses that many gardeners patronize during spring won’t ship stock during the hot summer months.
This means the plant can be transplanted at any time of year except the hottest days of summer. If the branches are primarily on one side of the trunk, it will be difficult to prune to gain the symmetry most of us want.


If the root system is well-established in the soil, the container or soil ball will move with the trunk.
Think about how fast the tree grows, how big it will get, how much water it needs, whether it bears flowers and fruits and how susceptible it is to certain pests or diseases. Spread the organic matter about an inch thick, then dig it into the soil to a 12″ depth. If, after removing the plant from its container, you see a tangled mass of encircling roots, use a sharp knife to make 4 or 5 cuts, a half-inch deep, up and down the ball.
Here you can find out which page number you need to refer to for your subject before opening the searchable PDF file located at the top of the page for further reading.
Four more numbered zones will be added for the semitropical portion of the country for a total of 15 zones.
Be forewarned it is a large file to download if you have a modem connection and better suited for those with DSL service. Then, in midsummer or later, the curve would rise again, as the tree begins to build new food stores. A healthy tree will begin, through the process of photosynthesis, making new supplies of nutrients (carbohydrates).
In some cases, a tree may have just enough food stored to begin leafing out, but not enough to continue growing. The only way to check moisture depth is to check by careful digging or by using a soil probe after watering the root area. Thatch in the lawn acts to repel water, and different soil types make water penetration very difficult in many cases.
A number of trees were lost in this experiment because of rootball problems and their data has been discarded from this study. If planted on the east, west or south side of your home, evergreens will shade the home even in winter when you want the sun to enter windows to assist with heating. Others that depend on wind to spread pollen often must produce large amounts of pollen to ensure that it is distributed. Fast-growing trees, however, are weak-wooded and are damaged more easily by winds or the snowstorms that can visit Colorado while leaves remain on the trees in late September. Imagine it 10, 20 or more years from now and decide if it will still be a positive part of the landscape. Some could require significantly more or less water than already existing landscape plants.
When tree roots are forced to compete with grass roots for water, nutrients and oxygen, the young tree often is at a disadvantage.
Soils may be clay, sandy, saline, compacted, wet or dry, gravelly or even full of old building rubble.
It helps to soak bare root trees and shrubs in a bucket of water overnight before planting.
When done, the planting area should be well-soaked and moist backfill should barely cover the top of the rootball.
Research shows that transplanted trees establish quicker when as much foliage as possible remains.
In addition, full-time garden centers and nurseries usually will buy stock from a supplier with a climate similar to ours, so the plant doesn’t need to go through a long and sometimes difficult acclimatization. If the branches are clustered at the top of the tree, in most cases, the plant won’t produce more branches below.
If you carry the plant in the back of a truck, cover foliage that might be whipped around in the wind.
If most of the roots are at the bottom of the ball, use a sharp spade to split the root ball all the way through, halfway up from the bottom.
Even if you don’t download the map, the article about hardiness zones is very interesting. If they look sickly or light colored, that is a clue that additional nutrients may be in order. This ensures that all new feeder roots outside the original root ball receive adequate water. When they have completed their research, Colorado consumers will know more about what happens after trees are transplanted. There is no measurable difference between the new growth of the plastic container and the fabric container pines. Deciduous trees lose their leaves, allowing heat gain in winter and cooling shade in summer.
Fertilizer needs and water needs for the lawn generally are not the same as for the trees growing in the lawn. Whatever the situation, you will need to determine if the site is suitable for growing a healthy tree. If you mulch around trees, instead of planting grass, you also prevent possible trunk damage by lawn mowers or string trimmers. Note that the AHS site also soon will include a searchable by zip code feature to find hardiness zones similar to the heat zone search feature now on the site.
If yours is a clay soil, aeration will help provide oxygen needed for optimum plant health.
If the tree must be planted in an area that will be seeded or sodded for lawn, give the tree a one-year head start before lawn is added.



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