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15.10.2014
We retrieved our luggage, with no problem, and caught an SAS bus to the city terminal, 26 miles away, (100 kronors.) We only had to walk two blocks over to check into the Stockholm Sheraton.
We walked by the palace again and through Gamla Stan (Old Town), checking out restaurants and shopping.
We walked over and through the nearby Stadhus (old city hall) and admired this venerable structure.
We caught the Djurgarden ferry (60 K for 2 round trip tickets) and docked at the GronaLund amusement park.
Next, we walked down the central boulevard to a magnificent, turreted edifice called the Nordic Museet (30 K each). We walked back to GronaLund for a coke (10K) and watched a bungee jumper plummet off of a crane. From the jetty, we walked through the waterfront to the Nyboplan Area, hoping to catch the last ferry to Millesgarden. We stopped off at the Cattelin restaurant, in Gamla Stan, for fish, fries and a Tuborg beer. We strolled across the stroget for a last walk and enjoyed the evening, before turning in early to pack for the trip to Gothenburg. Continuing on through the university section, we walked through the grounds of Rosenborg Castle. We walked on and past the grounds of Amalienborg Palace, where the royal family resides, to the beautiful waterfront.
Strolling through Nyhavn, or new harbor, we admired the large wooden fishing vessels berthed along the quay. From Nyhavn, we retraced our steps along the Stroget, which was very crowded, to the hotel for a brief respite. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the Old English Pub, but it was too crowded for us. We breakfasted early and walked over to Christianborg Palace, before proceededing across the bridge to Christianhavn. After breakfast, we walked over to the Radhus Plaza and caught the #30 bus to Dragor, a fishing village 10 miles south.
Tired & footsore, we returned to the hotel to pack and ready for the flight to Oslo, Norway. Later, we walked along the waterfront, past a large statue of FDR and took a one hour Oslo Fjord tour for 100K. Further along the harborfront, is Akker Brygge, a restored shopping area, adjacent to a large quay.
It was getting late and cooling off, so we walked through town and on up, through Queen's Park, to the hotel. Later, we boarded a ferry (30K each) , for a trip to the BygDoy peninsula, with its attractions. We boarded the return ferry (30K) to the Radhus Plad (City Hall Plaza) and walked through neighboring Akker Brygge. The day was waning and we were tired with the day, so we retired to the hotel via cab (45K).
Munch's earlier works (1880-90's) remind one of Degas or Manet, his works after 1900 appear to be fed from a cocaine induced mania. We walked back into the city center and stopped at the Scotsmen's Pub, on Karl Johan's Gate, for coffee (36K). That night, there was a massive thunderstorm echoing through the hills with very heavy rain. We had a good dinner of catfish and steak, at the hotel, for 350K .After a short stroll through the town, we crashed, tired with the day. Somewhat tired with the day, we returned to the hotel to pack and ready for tomorrow's flight.
After a brief r & r at the hotel, we had pizza at Jeppe's Pizza, in the late afternoon. We stopped at the Tourist Information Center, in Radhus Plaza, and walked on up to the rail station. At Gudvagen, we scrambled for the buses like a last lifeboat, that would take us to Voss, with a 15 minute stop at scenic Stahlheim Hotel, in the mountains. We stopped at the bus station, next door to the train station and bought some sandwiches and chips for dinner. Upon our return to the market area, we walked through the old Hanseatic buildings complex and stopped at the Tracteursted, a 300 year old tavern on Bryggen wharf, for a beer.
We arrived at the airport early, checked our bags into the Braethen Airlines counter, for the 50 minute flight to Oslo and had coffee in the terminal.
We had cafe au lait, in the outdoor cafe behind the opera, (38K) while we waited for the bus. Gold, diamonds, emeralds and an array of Royal treasures are artfully displayed in secure, glass enclosed exhibits.
This city was included on our trip because it is near where Mary had spent the summer of 1968. Again, a good selection of pickled herring, smoked whitefish and plenty of everything else.


It is a delightful 3 story, turreted castle , that is the repository of the Danish crown jewels and a hoard of other antiquities. We had a Tuborg beer, in an outdoor cafe for 50K, and watched the considerable tourist traffic flow by.
We returned to the Sheraton and had a beer in the Red Lion Pub, for 50K, before retiring footsore and tired from the day. We walked over to Ackerhus Castle and, for 20K each, toured this massive coastal fortification.
The light rain was intermittent, so we walked through and sat in several squares, at a leisurely pace. It is a thrilling rollercoaster ride through gorges with cascading streams gushing from the mountains in every direction. We checked into the Scandic Hotel, which is very nice, and got a room with a great view of the harbor.
Then, we nosed around the circa 1702 buildings, from the Hanseatic league era, on the wharf. The short flight to Oslo and the brief layover, gave us a few minutes to spend our remaining coins, before leaving.
A marching band, in police uniforms, led the parade and performed for an hour.(yawn) It was hot , the courtyard was very crowded and we were tired. Then, we took a brief overview of the harbor area and central city (Nobel prize site), before heading out to Djurgarden. It looked like the building must have housed a much more impressive collection that had then moved on to better quarters. After readying for the next day's trip to Copenhagen, we settled in with Needful Things by Stephen King and As the Crow Flies by Jeffrey Archer. She had tried to make contact with the Davidson's, the Swedish family she stayed with, but to no avail.
For 20K each, we viewed the remains of 3 Viking longboats that had served as funerary biers.
A few blocks over, we hopped on the trolley (30K) and rode to the Edward Munch Museum, near the university. After lunch, we walked about a mile out to Maihaugen, a Norwegian cultural park, featuring 18th century wooden structures, in a rugged natural setting.
There were wooden stockade type buildings, a stave church and other structures dating from the 1700's. We stopped at the bank to exchange dollars for kronors, the post office for Olympic stamps, the town information center and finally the Olympic information center. The best advice here is, if you must call long distance, use your calling card and dial unassisted.
It has statues of fishermen, fish mongers and women waiting apprehensively for their men to come home from sea. We drove through one of four, mile long subterranean tunnels, that connect the 4 major islands that make up Aalesund. The tour was only moderately interesting, because the guide was having a private conversation with a passenger and seemed to forget his narrating duties. There were chess games with outsized pieces, bocce, game tables, fountains and benches in the small square.
The locals take their kids everywhere and cart food and beverages underneath the strollers, for a family picnic. As we approached the pale yellow Royal palace, with green spires, it reminded us of Versailles.
We were pretty tired and footsore, so we took a slow walk, back along the river, to the hotel. There are several nice restaurants , cafes and many amusement rides and carnival attractions.
After dinner, we walked through Kong's Nytorv (King's Square) and again strolled through picturesque Nyhavn. We again stopped in the Old English Pub for a quiet afternoon beer.(49K) We bought pita sandwiches, chips, and sodas for 100K and then had a picnic, for dinner.
We stopped in to look over the nearby Alte Kirke (old church) and perused Johan's Gate, Oslo's version of the Stroget. We picked up several small baguette sandwiches (80K) and mineral water (40K) for a picnic supper.
Every train station we stopped in, was loaded with dozens of backpackers, of all nationalities. It was not something we were aware of before we left , but is definitely worth asking about. Lastly, we stopped by the Oppland Kommune (county hall) and exchanged Erie County pins for theirs. Each turn risked a head on collision and swung outward, with a view guaranteed to terrify an acrophobic.
After checking out prices in the market area, as well as tourist shops, Mary purchased a Norwegian sweater from a woman in the market.
The Wasa is an enormous, elaborately carved warship that had sunk in Stockholm harbor in the 1700's.


Gamla Stan, with its cobblestone streets and narrow alleys, was very crowded with tourists. The hotel charged about $10 per shirt, so we looked up a nearby laundromat, on Istedegade, and walked over. In addition, they have nightly performances by musical groups, dance and theater companies.
The Danish Crown Jewels, in the cellar vault, are truly impressive, rivaling England's or France's.
The park is a beautiful green expanse, but it is more a living monument to Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland. They believe that the mountains are the broken bodies of trolls, who were caught in the daylight. At the bus station, we bought 2 round trip tickets to tour the Geiranger Fjord area for 492K.
At the top, is a restaurant with a terrific view of the harbor area and surrounding coastline. The square was vibrant and interesting, but of course attracted the requisite number of hustlers. We then had a pleasant one hour flight, on SAS #154, to Landvetter Airport in Gothenburg, Sweden. Several small lagoons and tasteful floral settings enhance the omnipresent neon outlines on all of the buildings. Jugglers, musicians, singers and actors regularly perform, for coins, on an impromptu basis.
Outside of town, we walked onto what appeared to be a large fishing, swimming pier, with secluded sections for sunbathing.
On the approach to Oslo, we could see the many lakes and relatively flat terrain of eastern Sweden.
A horse and dray, with driver and peasants, in native felt costumes and capes, rode through town. We then walked through the Radhus Plad and looked in the Alte Kirke (13th century) .It has a Dutch mini cannonball embedded in the front wall. Retracing our steps, we had coffee at the 2nd floor Lido restaurant, overlooking the fish market. Among the things he told us, were that he was a sky diver, jumped at 150 feet and he thought the French were assholes.
Huge renditions of his statues, which adorn fountains throughout Europe, were placed atop columns and in various nooks throughout.
Vikings of long ago had held sacrificial rites here and wove a legend of sorcery and mysticism around the place.However, the skies were a beautiful bright blue and it was warm and sunny. Then, a forecourt with a large central fountain is surrounded by sculptures of various nymphs. Another brisk walk downhill to the KonTiki Museum , featuring the Ra I and II , was only moderately interesting. We followed the paths upward, stopping at a small mountain lake, to watch the ducks and appreciate the scenery. Reputedly, the king had authorized the extra level of cannons whose added weight sank the boat, so no official blame was ever attached.
We arrived at Helsinborg, Sweden, where two of the rail cars were detached and loaded onto a large ferry. A large obelisk shaped monument, composed of hundreds of human figures, climbing on top of one another, dominates the area. Photos taken inside the museum did not turn out well, in that it is very dark, to prevent further deterioration of the vessel. After a brief ferry ride across the Baltic, passing Elsinore castle (the setting for Hamlet), we arrived in Helsingor, Denmark. Live sex shows, gay bath houses, porno shops, pimps, pushers, hookers and all manner of interesting characters abounded on the this street. Surrounding the obelisk, are a score or so of paired sculptures, depicting the various ages of man from childhood to death. The countryside was changing gradually to mountains, clear streams and cooler temperatures. The view is a magnificent panorama, over a 270A° vista of mountains , ocean, fjords and greater Bergen. We had a 90 minute layover in the town of Geiranger, so we browsed and stopped for coffee and french fries (70K). The town is really a ferry stop with a small hotel, a few shops and houses on the edge of this arm of the fjord.
We strolled along the Storgata, a pedestrian shopping mall, that runs through most of the downtown center. It was a charming town, but all roads were undergoing massive renovation in preparation for the Olympics.



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