Cleaning old lionel trains,longest wooden toy train track video,e train schedule new york - Step 2

With the three rail system, the space between the rails had to be spread out in order for the train wheels not to touch.
Corey Tincher is an avid action figure collector and writer, with over one thousand articles to his name and five thousand action figures in his collection. Corey has been a collector for over two decades, and owns action figures from the last five.
On top of that, Robert does not only just go into the finer details of is constructing certain parts of your model layout, but he also gives you detailed instructions on the best way of planning your overall layout, so that you can end up with a model railroad set that you can truly be proud of, and that matches your ideal vision of what you originally wanted to create. Now you need to crimp both ends of each section of track to properly secure the pins, which should be firmly fastened to keep them from turning in their holes.
If you need how-to advice, research, product reviews, tips and information, you've come to the right place. Last weekend, a friend of mine dug through his paren't attic and recovered the train he last saw 20+ years ago. He really wanted to get it running for his almost 3 year old son who's in love with trains. And it definitely needs to be run on several types of track, through several types of switches, with a varying consist before you know whether or not everything is properly operational.
Another thing on the lubrication job (you may have done this already), but make sure you lubricate the bearings at both ends of the motor, and a tiny drop on the end of the armature shaft where it passes through the brush housing. He has utilized his experiences as a collector to start and maintain multiple action figure websites. Because Robert has been an enthusiastic “expert” modeller for many years now, he has run into pretty much every problem that you can have, when you are building your own model layouts.
In many cases, the track may have a bent end on one or more of the rails, the result of someone pulling the track apart by bending it side to side instead of pulling it straight out. First, locate the end of the track that has the factory crimps (as you may have marked in Step 1).
Because some old track has been used on ballasted layouts in the past, you may find a thin layer of white glue hiding beneath the railheads. If they aren’t too badly corroded, clean any visible rust using Scotch-Brite pads and water. There are several things you can do to prevent track problems.First, if you plan on storing your refurbished track for a while, I recommend that you wipe the tracks down with lightweight machine oil, like 3-in-1 Oil or sewing machine oil. We offer consulting, repair and rescue services, information, and we occasionally buy and sell old toy trains. We have a soft spot for trains and accessories that, without a rescue, would be tossed away. Please understand that we will never quote a value for a piece via email or over the phone. Check out the Pure Trains Network - a social network of toy train enthusiasts creating valuable content to promote, support and grow the hobby.

As it turned out, the engine is a 736 Berkshire with the 736W tender plus a few cars for the consist. The cars were easy, just a couple of drops of light oil and they were rolling as smoothly as could be. The old grease is a hard crust, and worst of all there's some shiny steel wool caught up in it.
Throughout the years, he has written over a thousand articles and taken more than ten thousand photos to accompany them. For example, there is an alternative style of hose-clamp pliers that looks quite different and won’t work at all when trying to straighten old track. If you must remove all three pins on a single section of track, put a Magic Marker line on the underside of that end of the track section. If any of the three tubular railheads is badly misshapen, you’re better off discarding this piece of track than trying to reshape the hole. The factory crimp should be visible on both sides, appearing as small round depressions about 3?8 inch from the end of the rail, like the pristine example in this picture. For these rails, use your diagonal cutting pliers to squeeze the outside crimp visible on the tie tab that covers the rail base. To remove this glue, use a chisel-type hobby knife blade (as shown here) or bend a thin piece of metal so that you can easily reach under the railhead. You can simply hold the pin with a pair of pliers while you’re cleaning it (a slower, safer method), or you can put each pin in a drill chuck and apply power while keeping the cleaning pad wrapped around the pin. You don't absolutely have to do this, but you do have to open the door and unclip the lantern from its mount. Rotate the assembly a few times to make sure it's all still aligned correctly and the lubrication is being picked up. When doing different jobs in my garage, I was using play sand from The Home Depot for cleaning metal parts.  The bigger grit of the sand sped up the sand blasting process.
The clear lacquer paint comes in spray cans at Lowe’s or The Home Depot, in their spray paint departments.  You can guard for over-spray with news papers.
This will indicate which end of the section has the factory rail crimps that hold the pins in place. Hose clamp pliers, typically used for applying Omega-shaped spring wire clamps onto rubber hoses, just happen to work perfectly. Especially if you had to remove any of the three pins on this end, you’ll need to re-crimp each rail at the same spot as the factory crimp. To tighten the center rail, use your needlenose pliers to push downward on the paired locking tabs that hold the insulator, rail, and track tie together. After installing your track, you can clean the railheads with alcohol or a track cleaning lubricant.Don’t keep the track in plastic bags, which can trap moisture. A good crimping tool is a pair of diagonal cutting pliers – preferably an old pair that is no longer sharp, thus reducing your chances of cutting through the rail.

In either case, reinstall pins by tapping them into place – if the pins can be easily pushed in with your fingers, the crimps you made earlier aren’t deep enough. Obviously, keep the track out of damp areas, such as your basement, or you’ll probably be doing some more refurbishing.When you’re ready to install the track, clean the old oil off the railheads and anyplace where you may need to make a solder connection.
Unbelievably, the pebbles that were sifted out from a normal aluminum screen turned out to be a great ballast size for my train layout.
Other models may be available in auto parts stores, hardware stores, farm supply stores, and home centers.• Needlenose pliers – Numerous models, available in hardware stores and home centers. Note the shape of the holes and compare them with properly shaped holes on a new section of track.
The hole in the pliers’ tip allows you to grab the rail on end without crushing the hollow-tube railhead. Since the track is zinc plated to protect the steel rail from corrosion, you don’t want to remove any more plating than is already worn off.
Then, before permanently installing any of the pieces, absolutely test the track to make sure the center-rail insulation that prevents shorts is still viable. Use a medium-sized tool that fits the track you’re using.• Diagonal cutting pliers – Numerous models, available in hardware stores and home improvement centers.
Just grab the bent rail with the pliers as shown – with the wide-flanged rail base remaining outside the tool’s jaws – and gently bend the rail back into position.
Scotch-Brite pads (made by 3M) strike a good compromise in providing enough abrasion to quickly remove surface rust without scratching the metal.
You may want to press down on the center rail a bit to mimic the weight of a passing train, just to make sure.It’s certainly possible, even after all your hard work, that a few pieces of refurbished track will never make it to your layout.
I crimp the opposite end of track about 1?4 inch from the end, again using diagonal cutting pliers. Don’t use steel wool, which, besides being more abrasive, can leave residue strands that could end up inside locomotive mechanisms. You may want to practice crimping some track that you are going to throw away to get a feel for the job. To prevent rust from re-forming, immediately dry your freshly cleaned track with a towel and bake it in an oven at 200 degrees for an hour or so. 10100) that has a crimping nib to tighten pins on Standard gauge, O-27, and O gauge track.• Abrasive cleaning pads – 3M Scotch-Brite heavy-duty scour pads (recommended), available in many grocery stores, discount department stores, hardware stores, and home centers. Similar brands are available, but never use steel wool instead.• Lionel replacement track pins – O gauge no.

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Comments to «Cleaning old lionel trains»

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