Foam board model railroad benchwork construction,woodland creek furniture locations,model train museum ct wedding - Step 1

If you had space you could peirce the backdrop with the other Keddie track, bring it under Rutland and then under Keddie in a big curl and then tie it into the connection track at Ann Pere, making a big reversing loop.Dave H. I am looking to model a scene from Alaska with a rather large mountain foothills area, that the train can eventually climb in a section of the layout to achieve to heights of track, would like a town and an area of industry (probably coal or oil) I am going to put in a river and possibly the edge of a lake with a floatplane. The obvious track plan to put in is a loop with the middle squished in across the 2 x 3 section and big loops at each end of the 4 x 8's. The scenery was wonderful, but the track was definitely single track, with short passing sidings, and not many,  So short that the passenger train went into the siding so that the longer unit tanker train could go past.
Nothing is impossible, but posting a room plan, and potential layout bench work would make it better for people offering advice. I also see a bridge - if this implies a grade, you will want to search the forum here for more assistance.
Depending on how hard you want to work to just get to the point of running trains, I would suggest getting sectional track to do your mainline runs, at least on your first layout. Yes there would be a total of three bridges and a grade that would include tunnels and raising up to the grade eventually. I was maybe a step ahead because I had already worked on a track plan concept before posting. Use the other side to develop your skills and work out how to build the grades and terrain changes that you are looking for.
So i bought some sectional track to use quickly but i have not and will not glue anything down anytime soon, I want to have fun and run the trains and go slowly.
Piecing together all that sectional track would drive me nuts, but nothing wrong with playing around and experimenting. So far the girder is sturdy and the track underlayment (or 'roadbed' to use the train guy's terms) is pretty rigid and the weight is quite a bit less.

On page 2 of the digital section of this forum there is a thread with pictures from me about my digital layout.Scroll down to see underside picture. I grew up with O gauge and just building them on the floor and when the layout got Stale I just changed it. The large sides of the U shape are both 4x8 boards and they are joined by a 3 foot by 2 foot section.
I dont want a lot of track, I do want to put in two levels where the track goes up onto a foothill and one track goes below into a tunnel.
I'm building a 12x8 table that I want to hang in my garage and lower for racing with my kids (i.e. I plan to fill in the open areas eventually with either sheets of styrofoam or hydrocal to make a scenery base. I had seen this with alluminum framed around edges with cable attached to it for the motorized pulley system. The booked show several styles and applications and I suspect one could be adapted to something like you're wanting to do. About us Use of this site constitutes acceptance of the Terms of use, Cookie policy, and Privacy policy of eHow. I currently only have a simple oval with a siding on one of the 4x8s the other areas are empty. I want to clarify I dont mean a ton of track, just more than the tiny amount I have on about a half of my layout.
There will be two mountain areas outlined in orange that will be separated by a valley, there will be two bridges crossing the valley one higher and one lower.
But today I went down and measured the sides of the table, I can probably make each side section another foot larger into a 5x8 table.

I just got my insulation board on top of my plywood and am now looking for ideas on how to fill it with track. That way I could potentially have 24-27 inch curves, enough to run the pro to alaskan passenger cars.
I am going to start with the layout flat and add the switches out to the grade later so I can run my setup, looks like I need to get some passenger cars too! I could unscrew the plywood and add shelf brackets to support the extra 6 inches of plywood on each side.
The outside loop with large radius slowly climbing into the hills, and the inside radius 18 on one side and 22 on the other for the freight that will go through the mountains. Not sure I really want double loops or not, but i want to use the sectional track i bought and since the other side is rising into the mountains i don't think it will look like a double mainline too much. Nail two 5 by 10 cm (2 by 4 inch) cross braces to the bottom of the board extending the entire length of the framework for added support. Use multiple foam boards to build this bedding, enough to fill the space to the top of the frame. Spread the glue evenly along the surface of the foam board before gluing the boards; first on to the plywood forming the bottom of the frame, and then on to subsequent boards until reaching the top of the frame. This bedding can be excavated as needed by cutting with a hobby knife or a hot wire foam cutter.
After cutting the foam, sand the sides of the cut foam smooth for painting, and remove all foam debris.

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