Garden railway baseboards suppliers,model railway control panel wiring guide,nyc subway map upper east side effects - And More

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Try RateSetter, a P2P lender offering savers rates of up to 6.1% and earn an extra ?25 as a welcome bonus! It's been almost a month since my last update but with the warmer weather comes renewed enthusiasm and a decision to put other things on hold so that I can get on with the track extension. Didn't get to see much of the sun today and that blustery breeze made it a bit uncomfortable at times but here's what I managed to do this afternoon.I've laid the footings for the final half a dozen breeze blocks that have to be laid. The last remaining breeze blocks have now been cemented into position completing the construction of the track base.
I've been getting more and more concerned regarding the ability of my fleet of steam locomotives to haul anything above half-a-dozen coaches up the gradient on the long back straight section. Bathed in sunshine - food and drink outdoors - it's what a garden railway is all about and it really doesn't get any better than this.Today after yet another trip to the local DIY superstore, I have just about completed laying the decking boards on top of the breeze block walls and got them all covered in roofing felt. Today I laid the last few remaining metres of track that I had on hand and will now have to wait until Tuesday for another 25 metre box full to be delivered. I wasn't able to make a start today until after 2pm but at least I've tidied away with the feeling that a bit more progress has been made.
Location, available space, type of railway (predominantly passenger or freight), age of operator(s)a€¦a€¦a€¦a€¦a€¦a€¦a€¦..
Many people start with a train set from Father Christmas.A  To make sure it is not destroyed in a few weeks it should be laid on a baseboard robust enough to protect the track both when in use and in storage.
There are many track arrangements available and these can be achieved using track sections from the train set plus additional track components.A  Sidings can be added to make operation more interesting. If starting with nothing we can advise on the most cost effective set to buy and from which manufacturer.A  Alternatively there is no need to buy a train set as with everything available individually you can buy items as you go along often cost effectively using mail order, starting with the track. The result of baseboard limitations coupled with decisions made at the initial planning stage will enable the best layout to be achieved.
All the phases so far can be undertaken by our team of engineers, or partly or wholly by yourself.A  Once the track is laid and ballasted, and the wiring is operational trains can be run. Remember we can be used as consultants to guide you or we can provide you with a completed railway.A  Considering all the options in between a€“ the choice is yours. LocomotivesA a€“ servicing, re-motoring and DCC chip fitting.A  Bought a locomotive from an exhibition that does not run well, let us service it for you?
Adding DCC chips for digital control can be difficult unless you are competent with small tools and possibly a soldering iron. Diagnosis and repairA a€“ problems getting the wiring to work, short-circuits happening, scenery lights do not come on.A  We can diagnose the problems for you and hopefully create a long-term fix. SceneryA a€“ get the best results from a variety of materials to create grass, water, snow, fields, roads a€¦a€¦a€¦.. Gradients make a tremendous difference to the amount of weight a given locomotive can pull.A  Gradients, both up and down, add tremendous interest to a railway and can enable a longer track to be accommodated if tracks have space to cross at different heights. The choice of scale and gauge is also complicated by the decision as to whether the track is to be laid on the ground or raised enabling sit-astride rolling stock to be used.A A  This is quite a common option in the two smaller scales. As part of the track planning removal of the excavated soil will be considered and where possible incorporated to form new cuttings or embankments. Infrastructure items such as sidings, platforms, loading areas, turntable, ash drops as well as engine and carriage sheds will also be planned at an early stage and constructed as funds allow. Contact us with your ideas and we will provide you with a free on-site consultation and feasibility report for your proposals.
Often the last items to be considered for a layout comfortable, stable passenger carriages are essential to minimise derailments and to provide enjoyment for all passengers.A  We can constructA  sit-astride, sit-in, covered and open carriages plus a selection of goods wagons in the common scales and gauges.
For the enthusiast working signals are a worthwhile addition to any layout.A  Lattice, rail-built and tubular post semaphore signals and LED colour light signals can add an effective operational capability to any layout. The basic premise behind the layout was simply to run Gauge 1 trains in the garden, no more. The 9' radius baseboards were laid out on the ground, and a tape measure used to get a feel for the shape of line I wanted. The route of the line was laid out more accurately using spray cans, spaced at four foot intervals. The position of the posts was marked out using the cans and baseboards as a guide (white primer being ideal for this). The strips were clamped together, three thick, to produced a laminated beam, each join being 2'away from the next nearest, hopefully reducing any weak points. All of the wooden post inserts were painted with wood preservative and screwed to the posts, the tops being levelled throughout. As you can see from this picture, the posts were not perfectly in line, giving a slightly strange shape. Baseboard tops are cut from 12mm WBP ply, each being two layers thick, glued and screwed together, with overlapping joints where possible. Next big job was to move the shed, so my brother came up to help on the grounds that I would return the favour for some DIY on his house later. With the end of the line in place, the remaining track was put into place (600 sleepers, threaded onto 30 yards of stainless rail, with correct keyway orientation at the rail joints, track split to represent 45' panels).
Wiring of the track was delayed by some muppet forgetting to buy the correct flux for stainless steel rail A week or so later, all of the wire links were made from 2.5 mm electrical cable, bent around four screws in a piece of wood to achieve the correct shape. With the line in an operable state, I decided to let everything settle for my own piece of mind.
A period of long hours at work at the start of this year curtailed any progress outside, but the weather was so bad I didn't mind! Basic mounting areas for the station platform, platelayers hut and signal were made from ply and fixed to the sides of the trackbed.
Last weekend, a trip to a local hobby shop netted four bags each of Woodland Scenics fine grey talus and coarse grey ballast. It's good to see the whole sequence in one place, and that ballasting looks really good.
Excellent stuff there my friend But do you ever wish that you had either a) put in a run round at the station end or b) two roads, one a platform & one a stabling line?
Excellent stuff there my friend But do you ever wish that you had either a) put in a run round at the station end or b) two roads, one a platform & one a stabling line? Fantastic stuff, such amazing track laying and ballasting of the sort normally seen on an indoor layout, so impressed I joined the forum just to comment ! That said I bet you could have do without todays weather.Looking at the pics I'm reminded of Hambleton Junc.
It's really nice out there today but the grounds soaked once more and I've had my fill of working in mud for this winter. If I don't make some quick progress there's going to be very little operating time this coming summer.I decided to tidy the garden before commencing work on the layout.
As the ground slopes away and is much lower at this corner of the shed they will need to be laid as a double row.
Looking at the photo below with a short section of decking board resting on top of the newly laid blocks I'm a little concerned about the gradient despite all my efforts to keep it to a minimum. I've done all I can to keep the gradient to a minimum but the facts are that a figure-of-eight circuit needs to cross itself and hence gradients are unavoidable.Having run out of the essential supplies like roofing felt and another decking board, and without any means of private transport until tomorrow (didn't fancy carting them home on the bus) I thought instead that I would make a start laying some trackwork across and beneath the flyover section. Only one small section of decking board remains to be fastened to the wall but I have run out of the required plugs and screws so this will have to wait. If my memory serves me right this will be my 5th 25-metre box of track since I started the initial construction and that's not counting the box of finescale that I purchased with the intention of building an indoor layout before any thought of a garden railway had entered my head.
As often happens, the shed hasn't yet been used for the purpose it was originally obtained for (i.e.
On a large layout undulation of the scenery, position of buildings, rivers and farms can be used to define the path the track has to follow as in full size practice.A  For smaller layouts however, the track plan defines these variables.

From this point on adding scenery, including buildings, trees, fields, and people is largely your choice. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Cleared a couple of years ago (mainly to make it very low maintenance), this was how it looked on the 1st of May last year. The only time I have been happy to have a clay based soil, the garden claw produced a nice round hole, perfect for filling with concrete and posts.
6 hours of twirling with the garden claw, and all the holes are ready (fence panels have been repainted by this point in time too). A bit of trial and error, and I found it easiest to buy a couple of 3" square fence posts, and rip these down to be a good fit within the drainpipe. Since then, another track feed has been placed around 30' from the shed to counter a slight power drop.
We had had some fantastic hot weather whilst the line was built and I was concerned that any heave in the clay soil over winter had the potential to upset it all.
I felt that would have altered the balance too much, and made the line very station orientated, whilst what I really wanted was as much scenic length as possible.
The drainpipe idea was copied from a chap who I was talking to at the G1MRA AGM a couple of years back. It may prove to be a folly in the long term, but the main aim was to be able to watch a short Gauge 1 train pick its way through scenery to reach a small, neglected halt at the end of the line - I guess the closest comparison would be something like Ynysybwl station in the latter years. It all needs to settle now (the typical Bank Holiday rain should sort that out ), then I can mix in some compost and decent top soil before planting. I know you don't like the idea of points outside, but a simple single line chord down from the viaduct (following the 2009 temporary route) would give you a nice bit of operational variation. Hopefully it will quickly dry out and provide better access.Funnily enough I had considered putting points in at the end of the viaduct and creating a double track curve so that I could run trains as before without heading directly back to the shed.
The grass was ready for a mowing and beneath the plastic sheeting protecting the viaduct the grass was higher than the viaduct itself. I usually break a block in half lengthways and use that for the bottom row with a full block on top.
I know that the diesel loco's will be okay with it but my hopes of running steam loco's with a good few coaches on is looking more and more unlikely.
When I had done all I could I decided it was time to test the gradient using a steam locomotive and some Bachmann MK1 coaches.I chose to use the Hornby sound-fitted Black 5 and began by adding five coaches which were hauled away from a standing start on the gradient without a problem. With the tops covered it's now beginning to look more like a railway, and while some of the following photographs may again replicate what's already been shown previously, it is a record of my progress and the layouts continued development.The photograph below is one of my favourites to date showing a near track level view from just in front of the shed looking up the line through the new over-bridge section and along the back straight. Once I'd finished laying what track I had left I decided to run a couple of loco's back and forth to ensure everything was okay.It was only 2 days ago that I last cleaned the rail tops and yet they were in need of a good clean again today.
Today my track order was delivered nice and early and we have bright sunshine.As it happened, yesterday wasn't an entirely wasted day. Not only does it look wonderful, it is also operated to a proper timetable and represents a fictional section of the Ratischebahn in the 1930s.If you haven't been to see this stunning model, which is by far the finest garden railway I have yet seen, do try to get along for a visit.
Assuming it's an entirely private railway (not club owned), I haven't seen anything which would better that.I'm a big garden railway fan, and often help my father with his G scale collection. As it happened, after a visit down to Simon's, he gave me a set of CNC machined plywood boards on a 9? The process was to put the post in the hole, tap the top to seat it down square, then fill the outside of the hole with postcrete mix (water added first). They were then cut to a suitable length for each post and numbered (there was some variation in the level of the postcrete fill in each post, so the wooden insert takes this into account to leave a minimum of 1" clearance).
The LED has an integral resistor, meaning a small channel in the bottom of the wooden brace and the legs could be soldered to the buffer stop rails allowing easy power connection.
Cabling to take power to the station, platelayers hut and buffer stop lamp has been run down the back of the baseboards. Having decided to build up the border that was to run along the RHS of the garden (I have a huge amount of soil left from moving the shed), some gravel boards were knocked up from decking timbers to protect the fence. Then it was deep breath time, and the line was ballasted in the same way as an indoor jobby (although that doesn't tend to result in facefuls of concrete dust!). I will admit that the end to end does limit play value, but Simon and I kept ourselves amused for 6 hours or so with no problems last year! I've left open the possibility of a siding if it does prove to be too limiting, but to add a run round loop now would be a major headache.
As you say it will also add some operational interest and it's nice to see a train sat there waiting for the road as another passes by.
I also planted a few box hedging plants to try and disguise the breeze blocks at the side of the viaduct and which can be seen from within the living room. With a bit of wheel slip, six coaches were also hauled up the gradient from a standing start.
The track in the foreground hasn't yet been fixed in place but what a superb vantage point this is for watching approaching trains.From a higher viewpoint, the photograph below is a view in the opposite direction looking back towards the shed. It needs a rub over with the track rubber, a brush to get rid of any loose particles and finally I like to give it all a wipe over with a damp cloth.
Instead of working outside in the garden I laid a nice wooden floor inside the shed using the cheapest wood effect laminate flooring I could get hold of at the local DIY superstore. I had to clear it out before I could make a start constructing the baseboards that will hold the storage sidings within.I've screwed together three softwood frameworks which will be fastened together once they're in their final positions inside the shed. I'm not sure how it can be compared to the pictures I put up of a fully scenic line run to a time table. When this had gone off, add a touch more postcrete to the top if required, half fill the post with water and then add postcrete to this. Edging strips for the sides of the trackbed were ripped down from another sheet of 6mm ply and screwed and sealed to the baseboards, leaving about 3mm proud at the top to make a trough for the ballast. With the mix spooned, brushed and generally pushed in to place, a misting of water was applied over the top to settle everything down.
It'll take a season or two to establish itself but it should look okay if I can keep the dog away from it until it's up and running. The thickness of the decking boards meant that to enable sufficient clearance for trains to pass beneath the bridge, I would have to drop the line by almost another inch. I like this long back straight despite the tricky climb in both directions as it offers a really good view of an approaching train. However, the addition of another coach saw the Black 5 stationary with all wheels spinning. I had a pot grown acer shrub which had outgrown it's container and was not thriving at all and so it had been decided that it would be planted in the garden. Once I had done that, I placed a class 47 on track and set it in motion but it sounded as if it was running over particles of grit and so I gave the rails another wipe over. A bit more thinking and a solution presented itself to the problems of continuous movement on an end to end line, the autoshuttle function (asymmetric DCC function) that is available on Lenz Gold and Silver decoders. When all is done, the bottom of the post is completely immersed in postcrete, and filled to within 6? A couple of passes with a watering can were next on the list, and the whole thing left to dry out. They sit behind the station platform and are there in case I decide add a siding which will run right up to the back of the house. So, now for some pictures taken this afternoon.The photo above gives a clear view of the little hedging plants in front of the breeze block wall. Not having a suitable metal section to hand, and wanting to make some headway in this area, I decided instead to cut away a section of the decking board equal to the width of the 'bridge' to see if it would remain strong enough.
Once I get some trains running again and can get out with the video camera I'm sure there'll be some really good viewpoints from which to record the action.The photograph above is taken from directly beside the large shrub that you can see in the previous photo and looks back in the opposite direction towards the shed.
What's amazing in these circumstances is just how little additional weight is required to get the loco moving.

Today was the day and it now resides adjacent to the over-bridge where it will bring some shade and help to disguise the presence of the shed in photographs and videos taken from the back straight section. It made no difference and it was at that point that I realised it wasn't dirt on the track causing the problem but dirt on the loco's wheels.
I've heard it said that the veneer flooring is also ideal for lining the shed walls and with some insulation behind it, that too should help keep it cosier during the winter months.So, with another 25-metres of Peco track in my hands it was outside to get started. There will be two angled sections as depicted by the wood offcuts to round off the corners. This would allow me to run a push-pull train that paused at each end of the line before returning whence it came. I want to finish the line as it stands, then if I find it just too limiting, it shouldn't be too hard to take out one yard of track, drop in a point and extend the baseboards. The soil in my garden is very heavy so I removed a good depth of it before adding a mixture of sharp sand and compost and then mixing the whole lot together.
I've actually removed more than I needed to and it's still remarkably firm so as it won't be under any undue stress I think I'll press ahead with it like this. Again, it offers a great view of approaching trainsAnd finally, this photo shows that I've got most of the decking board sections laid around the curve heading into the shed. Very slight finger pressure on top of the loco, especially over the front driving wheels, and it's away with the seven coaches. It's not quite to scale (!) but it'll look okay.When I first erected the shed I posted a couple of photos of the view of the layout from within and so with the additional work that has taken place since that time, the photo below is a view through one of the 4 windows within the shed as it appears today. This particular class 47 is a new loco (the Gaugemaster 'Rail Riders') and so it's seen very little use since I obtained it so it just shows how quickly wheels can become soiled when operating outdoors. I completed the curve section up to the shed and now require an access hole so that the next section will actually enter inside. It'll be interesting to see how well these little plants progress and develop over the coming year. I just need to build some cosmetic bridge sides now to finish it off.It looks set to remain relatively dry for the next few days so I'm hoping to get the rest of the decking boards laid around the curve section tomorrow.
The weight of my slightly worn Peco track rubber simply resting on the smokebox is more than enough to get the loco in motion. It's going to be pretty easy to keep an eye on things when inside the shed but not as much fun or as enjoyable as it is when by the line side.Finally, just to document the progress and development, this is a view from next to the viaduct on the left side of the over-bridge. From now on I intend to ensure that the track and loco wheels are as clean as they can be before any running takes place. I might add here that I've staggered the joints slightly on the curved sections to help overcome the dog-leg effect that you can often get when laying track round curves. The centre section which will house the main siding area has a depth of 28 inches.With most of the accumulated junk removed, the shed currently looks like it appears in the next photograph. They are a proper bind to ballast over, and any time spent cutting them off and respacing the sleepers by eye would be saved by less time spent ballasting. So, time to take it apart and see what can be added inside.There isn't a great deal of room inside the loco body for the addition of extra weight but thankfully the smokebox is an empty void and for want of something more suitable, I stuffed seven 5p pieces inside, held in with a blob of blutac. There's still plenty of work to be done but once I have the trains running again it can all be done at my leisure.
The difference that clean track and clean wheels makes to the days operations is worth all the effort. The veneer floor adds a bit of comfort.The two photos below show how the softwood framework fits into the shed. The viaduct is holding together well even though it attracts the damp from the ground but so long as it remains level on the running surface it will be fine. Immediately the loco feels heftier and back on track the seven coaches were no longer a problem and I even managed to haul 8 coaches from a standing start with just a bit of wheelslip.
I'm not sure what is the best way to clean locomotive wheels but I have now ordered a Peco PL-40 wheel cleaning brush and will see how that fares. There was a short section of decking board to fasten down on the straight section leading to the shed and this was duly done along with the addition of roofing felt.
At the moment it's simply resting on the floor but once in its final position it will be raised slightly by approximately six inches. I can always introduce a speed restriction if it starts moving.The photo above is looking back from the viaduct towards the return loop which runs through the shed. Come on Hornby, just that bit of extra weight would solve so many haulage problems.I'm more than happy with these results which means I can safely plan to run steam loco's outdoors with at least 8 coaches. I also ordered a Peco servicing cradle so that I don't have to sit with the loco resting upside down between my legs while attempting to carry out any work on it.With no track left until the delivery on Tuesday, tomorrow looks like it will be a quiet day. It might look like a lot of wasted space but I do have plans for putting an indoor only line at a higher level but that's for later - perhaps over the next winter.Finally, I previously mentioned the fact that I had staggered the track joins on the curved section to try alleviate the dog leg effect that can often occur when laying flexible track around a curve. After crossing the viaduct the line crosses over itself before taking a 7 feet radius curve to the right and into the shed area. Eight does look far better than a measly six or seven and if I can source something more suitable for adding as additional weight then perhaps I can be looking at 10 coach trains.
I need to decide on how I want to finish off the over-bridge and there's always plenty of scope for landscaping around the whole perimeter of the layout. I still need to add a front and rear to the bridge but I've not yet decided what kind of bridge this is going to be.
The photo below is of a close up one of these track joins where instead of cutting the track ends to an equal length I deliberately left one side longer. Exiting the shed it passes beneath the viaduct line as can be seen above.This is where the line passes beneath itself. I'm also ready to begin work inside the shed and the first priority will be to get a continuous run back in operation.
You'll notice with the track that I've also filled in the gaps in the sleepers where each section joins with the next. It does mean you have a bigger gap to fill in with left over sleepers but it certainly makes a lot of difference to the track profile.Bonding wires have yet to be added to the track that has been laid over recent days.
I have deliberately made the dimensions here as tight as possible and intend to use a thin metal sheet as the track base to bridge across the gap so that gradients are as slight as can be. I can add additional sidings gradually over time so there's no immediate rush for that although the sooner they are in place the better it will be. This makes a remarkable difference.The photo below is looking down onto the top of the seven-feet radius curved section. With a bit of luck the metal might even add some realistic sound effects.Between them, the photo above, and the one below, show the entire layout. As a guide to the size of the layout, the viaduct which can be seen covered in plastic sheeting, is approximately 11 feet in length. It's just a simple figure of eight that runs into and exits the shed where there will be a small number of storage roads or sidings.
It's amazing how the addition of this small extension towards the shed has really opened up the whole layout and given some really exciting vantage points.And finally, the image below show how useful the Acer will be in screening the shed from view when looking down the gradient towards the over-bridge.
I don't really mind seeing the trains running into a wooden shed but this makes it look as if they just run on into the distance. Well, it does to me anyway.My next update should be reporting of progress from within the shed itself. I had better take stock of how many yards of track I have left because it's not going to be long before I'm laying flexi once again! I've laid a few pieces of track inside this afternoon to judge the space available and I may well be adding 12 storage roads although several of them will be relatively short.

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